VOYAGES AND TRAVELS THROUGH The RUSSIAN Empire, TARTARY, and Part of the Kingdom of PERSIA. By JOHN COOK, M. D. at Hamilton. in two volumes. The SEC OND E D I T I O kI , X ^fr£*m K \ VOL. II. Si ad boneftatem nati fuinus, ea ant fola expctenda eft, aut certc omni fon-dere gravtor eft h.tbcnd.i, quam rcliqu.i omnia. TuL. EDINBURGH: Printed for the Author, and Sold bt E. & C. DIL L Y, London. MjDCCjLXXVBL to the right honourable the countess dowager of HYNDFORD, relict of the right honourable JOHN Earl of Hyndford, viscount inglisbury and grange, lord carmichael of carmichael, knight of the most ancient order of the thistle, one of the lords of his majesty'S bed chamber, lord lieutenant and principal sheriff of the county of lanark, one of his majesty'S most honourable privy council^ and vice admiral of scotland. My Lady, THough fulfome flattery finds the matter, and forms the manner, of molt of our modern dedications, yet true merit fhuns praife, where the femblance of it, fond of fame, fecks no more: Kencc the pen of a parafite charged with adulation, decorates his patron with divine honours, who is, perhaps, devoid of every human virtue. a The DEDICATION. The purpofe, my Lady, of die prefent dedication is very different; it is not to play the pancgyrift, but to publifli the truth ; and even now, as formerly, to declare that gratitude which ft ill glows in my heart for the countenance and protection with which your late and much lamented Lord was pleafed, in the year 1748, to honour me at the court of St Peterfburgh ; as alfo, to the laft hour of his Lordfliip's precious life, to di~ ftinguifh me with the amiable appellation of Friend. Th e great dead are held in everlafling remembrance ; as the good man, and the true patriot, though ordered, with others, to the chambers of death, flill lives, and will e-ver be a memorial, and a mmiffer of virtue, ^ven to thofe on whom the end of the world mail come. Such, my Lady, fo full of merit, fo remarkably renowned was your late Lord, and hence fo highly honoured by foreign courts ; particularly by that of St Peterfburgh, where his Lordfhip fo long, and fo worthily repre-fen ted his late Majefty, of glorious memory. There his Lordfhip did fignal deeds ; and, favoured by the Emprefs Elizabeth, a great and magnanimous Princefs, found no difficulty in accomplifhing what his predecefTbrs could only attempt* The DEDICATION, v The Emprefs of Germany, and die King of Prullia, two mighty potentates, charmed with his Lordfhip's character, and confcious of his great wifdom and worth, were plea-fed, with his Britannic Majefty's permilfion, to lodge with him a carte blanche to arbitrate a peace between them ; which he effected to the entire fatisfacYion of thole high con\ tending powers, and much to the honour of Great Britain ! Your Ladyfhip's mo ft amiable and excellent endowments open a large field ; but, certain I lhould offend, I muft here be (i-lent, and ceafe to celebrate them *, honoured, however, with your permifTion, I humbly beg leave to lay the following meets before you, in the pleating hope, that, whatever judgment the public may form of them, they will be gracioufly received by you as a proof of that gratitude, refpect, and efteemB with which I have the honour to be, May it pleafe your Lady flu p, Your Ladyfhip's moft obliged, Moft humble, and moft obedient fervantju John Cook, ERRATA in Vol. I. Page. Line. 101. 9. For 600, r. 6000. 153. 19. For tHaJals, r. materials. 190, 31* For 6000, r. 60,000. 197. 23. For did Uke, r. did not t.ike. ERRATA in Vot. II. Page. Line. 334. 19. "For would be, r. would net' 380. 11. For talkoners, r falconers. 469. 29. For Turks, r. Perfums. 575, 26, For none, r. done. the CONTENTS. Chap. I. Concerning tlx; memorable revolution at the court of St Petersburg/?, in the night betwixt the z\th and 25th of November, 0. S. 1741. Page i Chap. II. A relation of what the author was informed of concerning this revolution 8 Chap. III. Anecdotes -which happened in St Petersburg}? during the author's ft ay there 14 Chap. IV. An account of the royal family preceding the pre fen t times, with a copy of the manifefto publijhed by her Imperial Majefty, immediately after her acceffion to the throne 24 Chap. V. The author's return from St Peterf burgh to Aftrachan 38 Chap. VI. Concerning what happened remarkable in the year 1742 at Aftrachan, and in the neighbourhood 53 Chap. VII. Concerning public affairs which were tranfaded in Ruffia, and on the borders of A-ftrachan during the year 1742 80, Chap* Chap. VIII. Concerning what happened on the borders of Perfia by Koidi Khan 108 Chap. IX. Concerning what happened in Ruft fia, and the confines of Aftrachan, in the year 1743, and fir ft of the Per fans 116 Chap. X. Concerning the operations of the Swe-difij war, and of the peace concluded this year 1 24 Chap. XI. Concerning the different a fairs and anecdotes which happened during the courfe of the year 1743 133 Chap. XII. Concerning the affairs between Sweden and Denmark 145 Chap. XIII. Concerning what happened remarkable in Rujjia and Aftrachan during the courfe of the year 1744 1 59 Chap. XIV. Concerning what happened in A-flrachan during the year 1744 172 * Chap. XIV. Concerning what happened in A-ftrachan and Ruff a in the year IJ4.5 190 Chap. XV. Being an account of my journey from Aftrachan to Mofcow 204 Chap. XVI. The author arrives at Mo/cow, A dejhiption of the monaftcry of Jcrufalem 230 Chap. XVII. Treats of the ambafador}s fuite, the prcfents for the Shach, and their departure from Mofcow 242 Chap. XVIII. Concerning what happened at A-jlrachan during our flay there, &:c. 261 Chap. Chap. XIX. Concerning what pafjed in the year 1746. Our march from Aftrachan to Kizlaar t &c. 281 Chap. XX. Concerning Mr Jonas Hanwafs account of the amha fad'or*s journey, ckc. 200, Chap. XXI. Concerning Circafjia, and its pre-font capital Kizlaar : Of the inhabitants, their religion, cuftoms, and prcfent government, *' in declaring her Emprefs, even in the life' V time of her fon Prince John. t< for u For thefe reafons, having taken to heart " the faid eftate of our Empire under this " infant, who is but fourteen months old ; *' and being moreover convinced, by fo many misfortunes as our faithful fubjeds 11 have hitherto fuffered, that they had no-u thing to expect, during the faid regen-u cy, but troubles and diforders of all " kinds, whether within or without the Em-" pire ; confidering, laffly, the imminent " danger to which our own perfon was ex-*' pofed, we refolved, with God's afliftance, €| at the moft humble requeft of all our faith-" fulfubjects, and particularly of our guards, " to afcend our paternal throne the 25th of u this month. And although the Princefs " Anne, as well as her own fon the Prince " John, and her daughter the Princefs Katha-rine, cannot, as has been fufficiently proved '* above, in any manner pretend to the fuc-" cellion of the throne of the Ruffias ; ne-** verthelefs, in confideration of the alliance, ** on the mother's fide, between the Princefs *f Anne, Prince Anthony Ulric, and the late " Emperor Peter II. and to give the faid " Prince and Princefs a mark of our Impe-rial grace, we have given orders to have them all conducted into their own country, with the honours that are due to them, generoufly forgetting on our fide all the fteps that they have taken to our preiu-!' dice,'^ Such 3 6" VOYAGES and Such was the manifefto iffued into the world at that time, and liich was die account of the Emprefs EUfabeth's mounting the thro tie of Ruifia; but I have all the reaibn in the world to believe what I have formerly ve* lated, particularly concerning the revolution, to be the truth. That the Emprefs Elifabeth might have had a few friends who confulted with her, I am in no condition to difpute ; but thai they were fo numerous, and that the night preceding her invafion of the palace, flic had had fo great a levee of principal officers, is absolutely falfe, as it would not have failed to have alarmed the Princefs Anne, The Princefs Elifabeth's greater! counfellor in this affair was the Marquis Chctardic; and ' though he pretended to efpoufe the caufe of the Princefs, yet it is no fecret, that all he intended and hoped for, was to caufe great confufion in St Peterfburgh, and probably the detlrucfion of every branch of the royal family ; that, by fuch bafe means, the Swe-difh generals might have an opportunity, in the height of confufion, to make an eafy con-quell, not only of St Peterfburgh, but of a great part of the conquered provinces. Of this very many of the knowing Ruilians were certain, and did not fcruple to fpeak among their friends freely about it, and expreflcd no fhtall furprize that the Emprefs Elifabeth d :t not only permit him to remain at her Court, but loaded iiim with much honour, many many prefents, and laftly with a very coftly order of S. And rev/, enriched with much o°M and many large diamonds of the bell Water. What might have happened between the Princefs Elifabeth and the Prince Hefle Homburgh, I do not in the leaf! pretend to know ; but it is extremely certain, that fhe took great notice of him the day after fhe was declared Emprefs. I cannot however pafs by taking notice of the figure he was known to make, the very day fhe mounted the throne, in the ftreets of St Peterfburgh, haranguing the foldiers of the guards, when he exulted much at the misfortunes of the unfortunate royal family and their adherents. How far this was acting like a Prince, and how far fuch actions became a man of honour, let the world judge. 1 ever wiflied, that every blefling which heaven bellows on mortals, might be poured down on the Princefs Elifabeth ; but at the fame time, I cannot help declaring, that I truly felt very fen-ftbly for the diftrefs of the royal family, and when I was well informed of the unprincely behaviour of the Prince Heffe Homburgh, it filled me with indignation, and I held him in contempt ineffable. CHAP. CHAP. V. The Author's Return from St Peter slurgh to A-ftrachan* THE Britifh caravan having fet out the latter end of December, I left this city the day after them, accompanied with my wife, two (ervants, two mates, and four flu-dents of furgery. We very foon overtook the caravan, and kept company with them till we arrived in Mofcow, on the 2d day of January 1742, without any thing remarkable happening on the way. The day following I went to my countrymen, and acquainted them that I was forry I could not leave that city fooner than eight or ten days, becaufe the beautiful Princefs Katharine Golitzin was ill of the fmall pox ; and as that noble family had earneflly defired my waiting fo long, till fhe was free of danger, I could by no means deny their requeft. They feemed indifferent, as they thought there would be no great need of me ; which I remarked, and was determined to trouble myfelf no farther about them ; wherefore I remained till the young Lady was out of all danger, nor had the malignant pox made any pits, or left any marks on her beauteous face, and lovely features. That good family recompenfed my trouble trouble beyond my defire or expectation ; and over and above this, the young Princefs niade a prefent of a very handfome iilver ftmff box, well lined with ducats, to my young wife, which will be kept as long as we live. Before I left Mofcow, the Princefs engaged me to go five miles into the country to dine with her fillers: They were two old maiden ladies, who lived in a beautiful village, belonging to the noble family of Na-rifhkin. After dinner we flaid too late to return to Mofcow, and therefore we determined to proceed early in the morning. We palled the evening very agreeably, and were entertained with vocal and inflrumental mu-fic, in which the ladies delighted much. Next morning we returned to Mofcow, and after breakfaft, every thing being ready, we departed from that noble family, and proceeded with the utmoft expedition night and day till we reached Tamboff, five hundred miles from Mofcow. We had, T fup-pofe, in the night time pafted the Britifh caravan ; for we never heard any thing of them. We went through the city Columna, built on the north fide, and diftant about four verfts from the river Ocka. This city is large, well fortified with brick walls and baftions. It is not a regular fortification, and is diftant about one hundred and eighty verfts 6". £, from Mofcow. We crofted the Ocka Ocka upon ice, and proceeded to the city of Pereflave Bczanskoi upon the river Ocka, about fifty verfts diftant from Columna i Then we arrived at Rezan the metropolis of the dntchy of that name, fituated alfo on the banks of the Ocka feventy verfts diftant from the Pereflave, which is lubordinated to Rezan. It is laid that the dutchy of R.e-zan is inferior to none in Ruifia in richnefs of foil, and, as I have had occafion to travel that country in the fummer time, I have reafon to believe it, and think there are few countries, which produce more plentiful crops of all forts of grain, and vaft quantities of honey. Many wild beafts inhabit this country, and the inhabitants are not only very numerous, but very rich. It is full of fine villages. From Rezan, we proceeded through many large ones till we arrived at Debroi about forty verfls from Tamboff. It was a market day, and happening to fee two horfes which I conceited, I bought them : The one was a large beautiful Perfian horfe of a bay colour, the o-ther was a Ruffian horfe which paced naturally ; I bought them for a very fmall price, and that day proceeded on my journey twenty verfts farther, to a village fituated on the fide of a defart one hundred and eighty miles over : Before I had driven five verfts my beautiful Perfian turned lame, which prevented my proceeding firther than than the village : A farrier promifed to recover him that night, but failed in his pro-tajfe, and next day a very great fall of fiiow kept me till the afternoon. I was ftepping mto my fledge, when an exprefs arrived, and putting a letter into my hand, faid that the Englilh gentlemen were in Tamboff, and he had reafon to think, that they had difpatched him from Debori by poft horfes to overtake me if polfible, and beg that I would wait their arrival, which would be as foon as poflible for their horfes to proceed. The letter from Mr Grseme was to the fame effect ; he faid that they had met with very much trouble on the road from the Voivodes, or petty governors, and their writers, ever finding objections to their peafants not anfwering exactly the defcrip-tions given of them in their paffports, and that they never could get free without pre-fents of wine, tea, or fugar, and, not feldom, money. This the gentlemen confirmed to me at their arrival, which was that very night about ten of the clock ; their horfes being extremely fatigued, we determined to reft all night, and fet out into the de-tart at break of day. After a few reflections, we were all in good fpirits ; nor did I ever part with them till we arrived in Tzaritzin, except in one town where they could have no need of me* I could not help telling them that I F had had obferved in Mofcow a refervednefs and indifference whether I went with them or not, which behaviour I would not have forgiven in any but my countrymen, the more lb, fince I was well affured that they were not all of a like mind. Meffrs Graeme and Brown acknowledged that my remarks were not ill-grounded, but allured me that they never gave encouragement to fuch unde-ferved treatment, for I was neither burden-lomc nor troublefomc to them, and I was determined never mould. But Mr Graeme, not ill pleafed, laid that they had paid for their indifference very dcfervedly. Thus this affair ended, and next morning we entered the clefart, where nothing was to be feen but clouds, fhow, and a few pitiful poflhoufes diftant one from the other twelve or fourteen verfts. We arrived in Chopra Crepuft, or Caftle, early in the afternoon on the fourth day after we fet out from the lafl village, and now the merchants had occafion to fee that I had a great deal of trouble to get their people free paffage from this place. The cuftomhoufe officer was drunk, nor would he act honeflly, or hear realbn, but faid that he was determined to flop the caravan, which confifted of about one hundred horfes. Seeing this, I got a copy of the treaty of commerce agreed up' on between the Courts of London and St Peterfburgh, and went flraight into the caftle caftle to demand juftice. I happened to be drefled in a frock for travelling and a furred caP> having no mark of belonging either to the fleet or army, and the governor, who was a captain, fcarcely would vouchfafe to fpeak to me, taking me for a merchant. I plyed him with good words long, and could ealily difcover that there was a very good undefending between him and the cuftomhoufe officer ; When I had found out this, I did n°t fail to difcover that I had the honour to ferve her Imperial Majefty : That I was defired by Count Golovine to proceed in company with this caravan ; and laftly, that if they ftiould meet with any groundlefs hin-tlerance on the road, I fliould inftantly feud off an exprefs to him with an account of it, which would not fail to meet with immediate redrefs. I then defired him to read fome paragraphs of the treaty of commerce, in one of which it was agreed by the Emprefs, that, if Britifh merchants trading or travelling through Rtiffia, ftiould be flopped upon any unreafonahle pretence, that the per-fons who did fo fliould be obliged, if I mif-take not, to pay to the merchant two ducats °f gold for every hour they were flopped. I then defired him to reflect: upon the confe-quences, that he was an old gentleman, who had now an honourable poll, that he certainly, which I fliould be lorry for, would meet with fevere ptmifhment, and fcrnplcd not not to chide him for joining with a ftupid drunken knave to diftrefs the inoffenfive ftranger. Laffly, I faid that I had fome truffy men with me who would not fail to make quick difpatch, and that neither the merchants nor I would go from this place till juflice was done us. The governor bethought himfelf: The cuftomhonfe officer was fent for, threatened, and beaten before he could be brought to reafon ; and the old governor was fo well pleafed that I had brought him to a fenfe of his duty, that he went into the town, and flipped with the merchants, who did not fail to make him fo very drunk that he was carried into the caflle by bis foldiers. Next morning we had a meffiage from the governor, entreating that we would breakfaft with him : When we arrived at his houfe, a large table was covered, and as much provifion ready dreifed as would have been fufficient for forty men. I excufed myfelf as I was obliged to wait upon Major General Butturlin : At my return however, I found my countrymen very merry, and the old governor almoft drunk. We then proceeded on our journey to Mikaclova : When we were going to dine, one of my fervants told me that the governor of Chopra had loaded my carriages with provifions, fuch as hens, ducks, geefe, turkeys, enough to ferve us for eight days; that he had alfo fent a fmail barrel of mead, one of °f ale, and one of corn brandy, the lafl: of which I gave amongft the fervants. From this place we marched on without any hin-derance, except that in a delart we faw at fome diftance twenty or thirty Kalmucks on horfeback. The merchants had twelve foldiers, and I and my people were eight men Well armed. The merchants and their foldiers divided one half to each end, and I kept the center ; fo that had the Kalmucks, tnacle an attack, we would prefently have formed a hollow fquare : But the Kalmucks having obferved fo many well armed men, thought proper to let us pafs on unmolefted; after this day however, we left the defart, and, though the road was longer, we travelled upon the river Don amongft villages, which have been defcribed formerly. As-the merchants were quite fate among the Coftacks, and my wife was fickly, being with child, I ufed to drive before them, but always met at dinner time, and at night, till we arrived on the weft end of the famous line which crofteth the country' betwixt the Don and Volga. I then fet out for Donfka-3a, and took my leave of my countrymen, propofmg to wait for them at Tzaritzin; be-caufe they ran no rilk of being ftopped, or °1 any danger upon that line. 1 arrived at Donlkaja about midnight, and fent to the magi ft ratcs, who were in bed, for horfes to Tzaritzin. They returned for anfwer thar I had no right to demand horfes there, and advifed me to go to a town at fome diftance which was in the road. The horfes which had brought me there were difcharged, and I knew not what to do. In fuch cafes, I never thought it any crime to uie a little policy. I was certain that I had no right to force them, even fuppofing that I had ftrength, which I had not, and the Cofiacks are a very obftinate people if you threaten them, when they know that you have no right: But I obferved formerly that they till iverf ally bear no good will either to the army or fleet, and this animofity is reciprocal ; wherefore when a ftrong body of men is upon a march, they feldom care to dif-pute with them. They having fcen my paflport, and by it, having been informed that I belonged to the admiralty at Aflrachan, I gave them to know that as I had difmifted my horfes I could not proceed that night at leaft, but if they fcrnpled to find me horfes they would find it more difficult to provide for a great number of men next morning, and probably would not relifh fuch a meeting, when they ftiould be informed that I was flopped on the road by their frivolous objections : This meftage had the defired effect, and they inftantly came to me, were very obliging, and wanted much to know their number. I anfwered them conftantly in general, and they never doubted e^ that they were all either foldiers or fail-ors belonging to Aftrachan admiralty. In c°nfequence of this, I had my horfes without further trouble : And as I told them that * could not drive faft or far at a time, on account of my wife's ficknefs, they gave me as good horfes as were to be had in the place. The lower clalfes of mankind, who never have had any opportunity of ftudying, °r feldom, praclifmg morality and humanity » are very hard to be perfuaded to do a good a/lion to any man who belongs to a clafs of men for whom they have any natural averfion, unlefs forced by fear. The Col1 fades, as has already been faid, bear an ill-will to the army and fleet, and probably they have caufe for fo doing; wherefore they will not do an obliging thing to any perfon belonging to either, unlefs they may have reafon to fufpecf. that they may be forced to do it, -and pumilled for making any delay. This they were afraid of, and therefore granted my requeft as foon as they could, and, to be certain of my friendlhip, treated me abundantly. I have, it is true, alone, travelled through this country without meet- • cj * lng with any hardfliip or being put to any expence for myfelf, fervants, and horfes : but this was owing to my profefiion, for their villages are all very large ; they have few People profefling any branch of medicine and furgery ; they therefore very reafonably conclude, conclude, that men regularly bred, and who have daily experience of a variety of dif-eafes, fuch as thole in the Imperial fervice, are the only people to whom they ought to apply for advice. They feldom offer, un-lefs remarkably rich, to pay a fee ; and to offer a trifle, would probably be taken as an affront: Therefore, their country abounding in all kinds of provifion for man and Dealt, they fend their acknowledgments of this kind, in fuch plenty, that I was ever obliged to caufe return the grcateft part of them. The Ukraine is a molt delightful, pleafant country, and the people though warlike, and confequenrly not eaflly driven out of their own way, are very humane, and moft obliging to flrangers, fuch as merchants, who they are certain dare not prefume to hurt them. All Chriitian flrangers from whatever country are looked upon as brethren, and enjoy without any trouble or form, all the emoluments of a Coffack. And though they are under the government of Raffia, that court knows its own intereft too well to burden them too much, and therefore lets them live under the government of their own laws, providing only they do not clafh with the intereft of the Ruffian Empire. Next day at night I arrived in all fafety in Tzaritzin, and there waited for my countrymen. I was very well acquainted with the the commandant, Mr Cultzoff was his name, and he was a brigadier. To him I recommended them, and got affurance that he would do them all the lervice which was in his power : I met there alio Lieutenant Colonel Kiftiinfkee of the Aftrachan garrifon : He had been fent there to tranfacf fome ferret commilfion which was fmilhed, and he was ready to return to Aftrachan, but, that be might travel down the river with greater fafety, waited till the Britiih caravan arrived-At their arrival, I was told that they refol-ved to difcharge their horfes at Tzaritzin,and wait till open water, when they could tranf-port their goods in barks, at which I was not forry, though they had kept me waiting two days for them. They were much pleafed however that I had recommended them effectually to Mr Cultzoif's protection. I think it was in this city I alked them, How they came to know that I had parted them on the road betwixt Mofcow and Tam-hoff ? Their anfwer was, That it is well known that neceflity is the mother of invention ; they had been fo very much encumbered by Voivodes and cuftomhoufe officers, out of whole clutches they could by no means get, without great lofs of time, and confi-derable expence in treating, and prefents; They therefore wilhed that 1 had been with them, and feared that I had palled them on G the the road, at no great diftance from TambofF. They parted no village without afking after me. At Debroy, where they halted, they bad notice that one of my profertion, a foreigner of a fmall fize, with a young lick wife, and eight attendants, had flopped a fhort time there, and fhot many of their pigeons* From the defcription given of me, they made no doubt that I was the perfon defcribed, and therefore fent off by poft ; but, if I had not bought thefe lame horfes, they could fcarce-ly have overtaken me, till I was within a finall diftance of Tzaiitzin. Lieutenant-colonel Kilhinfkee, efcorted by eight good foldiers, and I by feven brifk young men, all well armed, fet out from Tzaritzin, and arrived in all fafety in Tchor-' nayar, in two clays, being one hundred and eighty verfts diftance. We dined with the commandant, where we were defired to flay a fhort time, becaufe they were aftured that a body of twenty or thirty Kalmucks were feen in the defart lately, and that their appearance, at that time of the year, in thefe parts, portended no good defign: However, the colonel and I agreed to proceed: Having got frefh horfes, we thought we could be in no imminent danger; for the Kalmucks have not much iron, and the Ruffians take very great care that they fhallget none from them ; con" fequently they never ftioe their horfes, which renders them unfit to ride faft upon ice ; whereas whereas the Ruffian, horfes are always very well fhod, fo that they go as firmly, or rather better, upon ice than on the ground. The commandant's report however was true; for, when we were diftant but about fifteen Verfts from Tchornayar, wre difcovered a body of horfemen upon the banks of the river, though we could not number them, being ever in motion, but fuppofed they might be about twenty or twenty-five men. They were very well mounted : We were in readi-ttefs to receive them, but thought it proper to keep near the eaft fide of the river at a diftance from them. They fcampered down the river, keeping equal pace with us, till a great thicket of brufh-wood obliged them to ride off. We kept our courfe; and, as the ftrongeft fiflieries on the river were well known to the colonel, he determined to go at leaft thirty verfts from Tchornayar before we halted. Thefe fiiheries are no otherways ftrong than by the number of men inhabiting them, who are always well armed, and live on iflands in large zemlenkes built under ground ; as they bave been defcribed in the firft volume, I fliall fay no more of them here. We halted a considerable time, keeping a good look-out, and then departed, and met with nothing uncommon till we arrived in Aftrachan. At the diftance of about twenty verfts from it, our horfes being much fatigued, we were obliged to to halt, and on the banks of the river roaft-ed fmall bits of mutton for our dinner in the open field, under red gravelly cliffs. The colonel told me, that, fince my departure from Aftrachan, a few merchants travelling this way halted for refrefhment at that place, and, when they were taking their dinner, part of the cliff fell down, and with it, an earthen jar full of old Tartar coin, fome of which he had feen, both gold and ftlver. At about four verfts diftance from Aftrachan my horfes were fo tired, that without fome refrefhment they could proceed no further. I acquainted the Colonel of it, who faid that he would proceed, but was fo kind as to invite nie to his houfe, telling me, that a good warm fupper fliould be got ready by the time of my arrival. I was glad enough to arrive at the Colonel's houfe, becaufe it was too late to procure any good lodging for the night. There I met with a polite reception, and next morning I law my fca<-ofIicers, and got proper lodgings till my houfe fliould be fi-nifhed, which was building, with a fine new hofpital. But, fince my departure, Aftrachan appeared to me quite different from what it had formerly done. CHAP- CHAP. VI. Concerning what happened remarkable in the year 1742 at Aftrachan, and in the Neighbourhood* ASTRACHAN, I fay, did not appear the fame as formerly to me. We had now a new Governor, Vice-governor, and Commandant, neither of whom I knew, in place °f one of the beft men, I believe, the world ever produced. We had one now whofe moral character was not fo very agreeable to good men. From what follows, fome part of it will be pretty well known. After having been received into the fleet, I thought it my duty to pay my refpecls to our new Govern or, and the other two new gentlemen juft now named, though I was not under their direction, as the fleet at this tune was quite independent of the Governor. When I went to the Governor's palace, the captain of the guards told me, that the tables were turned ; that, in place of feeing a man endued with equity and goodnefs, 1 was going to fee a tyrant, and one in every refpecl the reverfe of good Prince Golitzin. I anfwered, that I imagi-ged it was my duty to pay, at my firft appearance in the city, my refpecls to our Governor ; that I wanted nothing from him, and and diat I hoped he never fliould have it in his power to opprefs me, nor do me any harm* I went into the well known hall, and paid my refpecls to an old, tall meagre man, by the title of Excellence. He was playing at chefs with the Commandant, and took very little notice of me. After one game was done, he rofe, came to the window where I flood, and looked out over my head, but never fpoke one word. I could not get from the window, without endangering the over-fetting of him. As he was returning to his place, I went out of the room, not ill pleafed that I had feen the man of whom I had heard fo many ridiculous odd ftories ; but was determined to pay him no more vifits, without invitation. I next went to our Vice-governor, Prince Michael Baretinfke: He was -a brigadier, and of an antient noble family, an old man, of an exceeding good character. He received me in a very genteel hofpitable manner, told me that he had frequently heard of me, and that he was glad that 1 had returned to Aftrachan; becaufe, he faid, that he had intended to employ me in his family when needful. He introduced me to his Lady, who was young, and very agreeable. He kept me very late, and amongft other things faid, that Vafilie Nekititch Ta-tifhoff was a very lingular man, and that his riot taking notice of me was his common way of receiving flrangers, especially his inferiors \ feriors; and that he but feldom paid due re* fpecl even to his superiors. Having now got my hofpital built, and in good order, I followed my bufinefs clofely without troubling myfelf about any thing elfe for about fix weeks, when there was received ni Aftrachan, a manifefto in relation to the following great ftate-prifoners, figned on the 2 2d January 1742. cOPY of the Emprefs Elifabeth's Manifefto, " By the Grace of God, we Elifabeth the u Firft, Emprefs and Sovereign of all Ruf-" fta, fact make known by thefe prefents. ■* It is already fufficiently known to eve-'* ry one, by our manifefto of the 28th of " November 1741, how, by the wicked and " ill-defigning intrigues of the late Ffigh Ad- miral and Minifter of the Cabinet, Count " Andrew Ofterman, carried on againft us, *' in defpite of his better knowledge and his " own confcience, we were, upon the de-*' ceafe of the Emperor Peter II. of glorious *' memory, deprived of our paternal here-** ditary throne of all Rulfia, which already V at that time belonged to us as lawful heir-" efs without exception, by virtue of the laft *' will eftablifhed by her Imperial Majefty, " our dear mother, the great Lady and Em-li prefs Katharine Alexiewna, now refting with God : As alfo, how, by wiles, offen-" five to God, and prejudicial to our Em- " phe, ** pire, he C. Ofterman, jointly with the late i( Field-inarfhal Gctaht Muinich, and fome f* others their aflbciates, at the deceaie of her *' Majefly the Emprefs Anna Joannovna of ** molt bleffed memory, when her Majefty *' was already in the utm^ft weakuefs on her 1' death-bed, again excluded us from our pa-*' ternal hereditary throne, by the means of " an ordinance and fettlement of fuccelfion, ** drawn up by him Ofterman, naming and ** appointing for his heirs and fuccelfors, Prince John, born of the Serene Princefs *' Anne of Mecklemburgh and of Prince An-4t thony Ulric of Bruniwick-Luncburgh, tho' *' he had not the leaft pretention nor birth-*e right whatfoever, and befides, was but an «« infant of two months of age ; and after *« him his brothers that fliould be born of <« the faid Princefs Anne. At the fame ** time, they not only conveyed the admini-" fixation into foreign hands, to the greateft *« diforder in our Empire, and to the ut-«' moft oppreflion and ruin of all our faith-" ful fubjects ; but even afterwards, Count »' Ofterman, and with him the late Vice-" chancellor Count Golofkin, and the reft ** of their accomplices, to our infupportable ** grievance, and to the manifeft danger of «' our own perfon, drew up a particular re-" gulation of the hereditary fuccellion, in «* order to exclude us intirely and for ever *■ from the pofleftion of the Imperial throne of M of Ruifia, belonging to us by oiir lawful ** hereditary right, as well as by the law of v all the world : By which forefaid regulation, they audacioufly attempted, not only V to declare all the females descended from ' Princefs Anne capable of fucceeding to the ct throne, but alfo to appoint the Princefs herfelf to be Emprefs of all the Ruflias : " All which wicked attempts and impious defigns of Ofterman, Muinich, and Golofkin, are fet forth more at large in our manifefto of the 28th November laft year. " In this lamentable and dangerous fitu-ation, we were at laft inevitably neceflita-ted, by the affiftance of Almighty God, at ' the moft humble requeftof all our faithful fubjects, but efpecially of the regiments ,c of our guards, to mount our hereditary " paternal throne, and immediately to take *c into cuftody the fliamelefs difturbers of the public tranquillity, viz. the faid Ofter-" man, Muinich and Golofkin, as traitors " to the Empire, and malefactors, together " with their adherents and accomplices, the " late High Steward of the houfehold Levold, " the Prelident of the College of Commerce, Baron Mengden, the actual Counfellor of State Teineraizoff, and the reft who are concerned with them. But in order that every thing relating to their audacious conduct, odious to the Almighty, and their cl defigns pernicious-to our Empire, might be H V brought *« brought to light, and made known in eve-«« ry circumftance,and in order to reftore the U public general tranquillity and content: As **.. alfo, fuch a love and peaceablenefs among " the people as might pleafe the Almighty, M we did appoint a particular comraiffion of " enquiry, before which the faid Ofterman, " Muinich, and Golofkin, with the reft of ** their accomplices, fliould be examined " concerning their grievous offences againft " the State, as alfo other crimes committed " contrary to their oaths and duty, tending " to the open ruin of the Empire, and the " difturbance of the public tranquillity. The *' main refult of which enquiry was found to " be as follows : '* The late Admiral Andrew Ofterman " did not only knowingly and willingly, " contrary to his oath and duty, confe-" quently in the moft flagrant manner, fup-" prefs and leave unexecuted the laft will " made by her Imperial Majefty, our dear eft " mother, the Emprefs Katharina Alexevna, " now refting with God, and by him, as '* well as others, fubfcribed and confirmed ** by folemn oath ; by which we were a&i** " ally, and in exprefs terms, called to the *' fuccellion of the Imperial throne of Ruflia ** in proper time; but alfo, after the deceale " of his Imperial Majefty Peter II. at the e-" leclion, by which the Emprefs Anna Joan-" novna was placed on the throne of Ruffia, as alfo at various changes which happen- « ed ' ed afterwards, efpecially when the Em-' prefs Anna Joannovna made a new ordi- * nance concerning the fuccellion, and pub-' lulled her laft will on the 5th of October ' in the year 1740 (which he alone had c drawn up in his own houfe) he not only * made no mention of the above faid laft- * will, nor any reprefentations concerning 11 it; but did designedly conceal and fup-" prefs it, endeavouring, by various falfe ;< fuppofitions, to render it abfolutely inef-u fectual, and totally to annul it. Nay, e-r* ven fuch were his abominable designs, * that, by divers fchemes fet down in wri-!< ting, which, after his arreft, were found a-:< mong other papers in his own houfe, and ' which he had fome time before, without regard to God, to his oath, and to his du-" ty, drawn up in his own hand-writing, [f he intended to keep us intirely from the * Ruffian throne, as well as our nephew his " Royal Highnefs the Duke of Holftein, u grandfon to his Imperial Majefty, our (< deareft father, Peter the Great, juft as if " neither we nor his Royal Highnefs had a-" ny right or pretension to the Ruffian " throne. But, in order to remove all ob-'* ftacles he might apprehend from our fide, " he devifed a project to marry us to fome ** poor prince out of this country, from *' whom there might be never any caufe of ** apprehenfion. The queftion being put to *' him *' him as to thefe defigns, by him fo wick-'« edly and unanswerably devifed and drawn ** up by his own hand, he did indeed own f himfelf, he had done all this contrary to !M his better knowledge and his own confci-(i ence, and though absolutely convinced, M that, purfuant to the faid laft will and dif-■** polltion of our dear mother the Emprefs " Katharina Alexevna, we had the moft in-«« dilputable right to the fucceilion of the ff throne, yet he falfely pretended at the fame time, that he did this out of mere compli-*' ance to the late Emprefs Anna Joannovna, f* in order to be freed ot'thefufpicion, which, *f as he falfely pretended, he lay under with her Imperial Majefty, on account of ha-44 ving prepared the above faid laft-will. He, «« Ofterman, in particular has dared, to the *• greater infringement of the public laws of V the Empire, and to the difturbance ol the " domeftic tranquillity, to draw up in his own «' hand-writing, and to fuggeft divers fchemes ?' how the fuccellion to the Rullian throne " might be extended alfo to the Princefles " def bending from Princefs Anne of Meck-'« lemburgh, in which he has had the bold-" nels to alledge, that in the ordinance a-*' bout the fucceilion publifhed by her Ma-" jefty Anna Joannovna, the Princefles de-" lcending from Princefs Anne were indeed «• not exprefsly mentioned, yet neither were ff they excluded; juft as if tins affair was in iticif '* itfelf of no great importance, but only this (t to be taken into confkleration, how to " proceed in it, and in what manner the ' iucceflion, to prevent all manner of difor-* ders on future emergencies, might be ' brought and fettled in exprefs terms on I the fillers of Prince John. When the reft ' of die minifters thereupon objected, that luch an affair ought firft, above all things, t0 be deliberated upon, particularly, be-caufe, purfuant to the laft-will, the late regent, jointly with the cabinet-council, the fynod, the fenate, and the general of-fleers, were to chufe a fucceflbr : That af-terwards it was to be considered what rea-fons might be pretended for it ; and when ' moreover, they begged sufficient time well u to examine an affair of fo great weight, " Ofterman returned this profligate anfwer, ** that the fame ordinance about the fuc-f* celfion did not at all run counter to the II laft-will: That if only the reft of the mi-u nifters would join in their votes, there *' would be easily found fuch rcafons, as " might be laid before the world ; and that ■' there remained nothing elfe to be done, ■1 than to take the bufinefs itfelf in hand. " Thereupon he laid before Princefs Anne v bis opinion, written like ways with his own *' hand, representing, that the regulating of the fucceilion always depended on the will v.* of the Sovereign ; and that the Princefs «' Anne, Anne, in the Emperor's name, might act in the administration of the Empire with the fame unlimited power and authority as belonged to any reigning Emperor I That therefore, after the example of the fucccffion's having been fettled upon Pr. John and his brother, it might alfo in his name be fecured to his lifters dcfcending from Princefs Anne, by oaths figned by the Urates fpiritual and temporal, according to the cuflom of this country; and thus this defign might at once, without lofs of time, be brought to its execution and perfection. To which he added, that if this affair was not taken in hand una-nimoufly, and without any private views, or if perhaps every one would follow his own head, it was eafy to conceive,that rather than delay prompt execution ought to be expected. In divers converfations with Levold and Mengden, Ofterman did not fcruple to tell the latter, that if the affair was managed with good order, Princefs Anne might be Emprefs herfelf, with this profligate exprcffion, That fhe might in e-qnity pretend to the fuccelfion as well as her children, though it is known to the whole world, that thefe latter never had nor can have a fucceffion to the throne of Ruffia. To Levold he opened himfelf* that one could not know how things might turn out, and it might be that th<5 «* Princefs ' Princefs herfelf might feize on the fuc * ceflion before all her daughters ; to ' which he added, that the affair muff, be !< done, either by force, viz. by letters pa-" tent, or by bringing things about fo, that " the people themfclves fliould demand it. " The queflion being put to Ofterman, con-" cerning thefe projects and devices, he did " own, that all this had been written and " propofed by him, out of a well meaning " view and officioufhefs for Princefs Anne, " to the end that if there were even no *' Princes born by her in being, yet fhe " might not meet with any obftacle from us, " as the only lawful heir: Furthermore,that, contrary to the laft-will above-mentioned, *' in purfuance of which he had obliged him-" felf by oath, to caufe the fucceftion to the u Ruffian throne, which, upon the deceafe *' of his Imperial Majefty Peter II. lawfully " belonged to us, he not only worked againft N us when the cafe exifted, but even, in ** further defiance of his oath, acted againft ** us upon the deceafe of her Imperial Ma-c< jelly Anna Joannovna ; as alfo after the *' deposition of the regent, only to gain Prin-*' cefs Anne's favour and obligation; and " thus preferring his own private advanta-li ges to the public happinefs of the Empire, " letting alide his own confcience, and abfo-€f lutely forgetting the dreadful judgments of Almighty God, he endeavoured, in the " moft *c moft: wicked and unjuflifiable manner, by *' divers intrigues, to deprive us of our pa-*' ternal hereditary right, which we were " born to, and which in juftice belonged to " us by all the laws in the world. Befides " thefe, Ofterman has committed many of-" fences againft our perlbn, of which he has *' been convicted as to every particular in his 44 examination. Moreover, many other grie-** vous mifdemeanours, tending to the open *■ prejudice and ruin of the Empire, have ** been proved againft him : He has been ** remifs in fufficiently providing, according to his duty, for the defence of the Empire, £* when it was moft neceffary: He never con-" fulted, as he ought to do, concerning the '* weighty affairs of the Empire, with per-*' fons of truft, and appointed for it ; but •* tranfacted moft of his own head. In Va-" rlous cafes of great confequence he nei-** ther would call a great council, nor fuller '1 one to be called ; though by his office he " ought to have been the firft to make re-" monftrances concerning fuch perfons as " were trufteci with many and great expen-et ces of the Empire, yet he never looked to " it, that they fliould give an exact account. " In affairs of fuch importance as concern-4t ed the well-fare of all the Empire, he em-" ployed, to the prejudice of all the Ruffian *' nation, utter flrangers, of whofe circum-" fiances and conduct nobody ever had fuf- " ficient * ficient knowledge befldes himfclf, whilft * native Ruffians in thefe cafes were let a* ' fide, only the others were admitted to re* I wards, but the Ruffians were abridged to II all profits, nay, rather employed to their le detriment; his dependents and adherents tl he not only employed on all occafions for " rewards, but even protected them to fuch a degree, that he commended their paul-try fervices equal to the great eft merits of others, and when they acted wrong, or neglected any thing r.o the prejudice of the Empire,he not only fliifted it,but approved *' of them and of their actions; he iftbed great * fums of money out of the trcafury of the Empire, and other offices of the revenue, ' without confulting other members of the *• cabinet-council, but only fent to their " houfes their folutions, drawn up for their fi figning : In important affairs of the Em-'* pire, he has often changed his opinions, as " they were to pleafe others, but not as his t( fworn duty and the intereft of the Empire u required ; heburthened and diftrefled the *' Empire by his exceffive railing of recruits ** of men and horfes ; the reports that came J from the commanding admirals concerning the ftate of the fleet, he did not fend to the board of admiralty, but had them all brought to his own houfe, nor ever communicated to the faid board thofe ad-J vices and papers that formerly had been I *' fent " fent to him ; he helped to procure to the '* Ficld-marihal Muinich an ukaufe, or let-*4 ters patent, for diipenfing him without " giving any anfwtr or account to whornfo-t ever, concerning the command he had o-*' ver the works of the canal of Ladoga, 1 though he Ofterman very well knew that H this was an affair and pretention contra-" ry to the common laws, againft which he <* ought to have made remonftrances. He " advanced all his relations, without any " lervice or merit; during his miniftry, '* when he had in a manner feized the " whole Empire, he had the impudence to '* ruin and to extirpate many antient and *' considerable Ruffian families,to make many " men hated and undervalued by the le-** veral fovereigns, to caufe many to be lent **■ avvav from court, and to caufe unheard " of cruelties and executions to be commit-*f ted on high and low, without [paring e-" ven the clergy ; to fow mifunderftandings and create variance among the Ruffian *.« fubjecls: Nay, he has carried his audaci-*' o nine is fo far as to abrogate many regu-4i lations eftabliflied for the public good by <( his Majefty our dear father, now refting ** with God, the Emperor Peter the Great, *( particularly that concerning follicitors at " refpeclive boards, and thus openly to ex-" pole and to cenfure the profound pene-** tration and wife difpofition of fo glori- • * otis " ous a monarch, not to mention other fuch *' mifdemeanors and neglects of the intereft " and welfare of the Empire ; more of " which is to be feen at large in the jour-" nals of the trial. The principal crimes of the Fie'd-mar-M flial Muinich are as follows ; During the u various changes that have of late happen-*' ed, he neither did obferve nor fupport " the aforefaid laft will left by her Majefty * our dear mother the Emprefs Katharine A- * lexevna, tho' he, with many others, had u f worn to it and (igned it; on the contrary, upon the deceafe of her Majefty Anna Jo-" annovna, he took particular pains to play 1 the adminiftration of the Ruffian Empire 1 into foreign hands, and accordingly con-" tributed moft towards the late Duke of *' Courland Biron's entering upon the re-" gency : He, Muinich having been the " firft, and who talked moft with him about " it, inftantly defired it of him, and pref-" fed him to it. Biron thereupon having, " directly contrary to the intereft of the Empire, taken upon himfelf the admini-" ftration.by Muinich's fraudulent intrigues, " was again turned out by the fame Mu- !< that if Biron did not obtain the regency, " all the foreigners would be cut off; but " that Biron himfelf could not afk it. Nay, u even long before he had propofed the " quelHon Whether it was not advifeablethat 55 her Majefty herfelf the Emprefs Anne K " ftiould fliould be requested to do it ? to which end, after a long confutation with the late Field-marfhal Muinich, he drew up a petition in the name of the whole Empire. In the mean time, he Mengden went to the Princefs Anne in the name of the Duchefs of Courland, to perfuade her to content to the laid regency, and to help to promote it. He alfo knew of every thing that pafied, and was to be brought about in the affair of altering the fuccelfion, relating to which he entered into private interview's and deliberations with the reft, but particularly with Ofterman. As for what relates to his mifdemeanours at the board of trade, he has been found guilty of the following offences to the damage of the public, and to the prejudice of the Empire. Upon his fuggeflion* great quantities of corn were exported from Peterfburgh, Archangel and the conquered provinces ; the confequence of which is, that corn is now as dear again as formerly, to the great diftrefs of the in* habitants, and prejudice to the Empire in furnifhing the neceflary provifions ; but particularly to the peafants in Livonia* who were fo much blinded by the advan* ced price, that they ibid all their corn, and are now reduced to fuch want and diftrefs, that there has been a neceflity of nourifhing them chiefly from our own " magazines* " magazines. This exportation of corn ■* Mengclen undertook of his own head, ** without the knowledge and conlent of a great neck, and prominent belly like a woman at the hour of delivery. Such Was his figure, and fuch was the man who then commanded the port, and who had fummoned me to make my appearance a-gainft fuch an hour at his levee. At the fame time, he had caufed affemble all the fea officers in Aftrachan, no doubt to wit-nefs his greatnefs, authority, and regularity. At my entry into the room after mutual faluta-tions, he welcomed my return, acknowledged that he had received my report from the governor's camp, but faid very much about my going out of the city without his per-mifuon, in what manner I had acted contrary to the regulations, how highly criminal and punifhable fuch a ftep was. His dhcaurfe was long, very farcaftical ; but ended with telling me, that according to the regulations, regulations, he ought immediately to take my fword from me, and keep me a prifoner in my own houfe till tried by a court-martial, but that conlidering I was a foreigner, I could not be expected to know the regulations exactly,He paffed me for this once, hoping and expecting that I mould take care not to commit the like again. I made an-fwer in few words that I had endeavoured, from the firft beginning of my fervice, to tranfacl all my affairs agreeable to the very fpirit of the regulations, that upon fuch urgent neceflity 1 was hurried away without being allowed time to acquaint him, or vifit my wife, the truth of which he very well knew: That I did not go to vifit enemies, but him who had the fupreme command of the kingdom, and whom her Majefly had trufl-ed, and honoured to reprefent her Royal Perfon amongft us, that had I refilled fuch orders upon fo very prefling occafion, 1 might have juftly fuffered, at leaft in character, and ever after been treated by all ju> dicious men as an obftinate fool,fince I might well conftdcr, that upon his fafety, the peace and well being of this kingdom, e-specially in fuch dangerous times from the Perfians and Kalmucks, might much depend. Finally, that though he had not ufed all the formalities, I imagined he had called me at this time to wait upon him, and hear hlS outrageous infnits before all the officers in* Aftrachan Aftrachan, with no other view but to frighten and infult me, but obferved, that, though I neither cared, nor was, by the regulations, permitted to fay any thing to him, which niight reflect difhonour upon a commander in chief, yet that, if he thought proper, I would not take it amifs that he put me under arreft, and try me by a court-martial, who, I had not the fmalleft doubt, would acquit me honourably. Laftly, I told him, that I fliould take care that her Imperial Majefty fliould be made acquainted with the whole procedure. When I had finiflied what I intended to fay in public, I delired to fpeak with him in private, and then told him what the Governor had communicated to me at parting, and faid, that I fufpected his threats Would be put in fevere execution. This intelligence (truck him like lightening. He lowered his fails very iiiddenly, and would not part with me till firm peace was concluded by a dinner and too much drink. Next day I had another menage to appear in the admiralty, about affairs of conference. This fnmmons feemed to be more ferious than the firft ; however, I was refolded and determined to infift upon all my privileges, or elfe, as many of our officers were obliged, for their ill judged defire of peace, to fubmit to his folly: I muft ever after fubmit to be obfequious to the pleafure of a very fluctuating ignorant man. When I was I was palling through the fecretary's chamber into the office where the commander was, with all the officers waiting my coming, the fecretary delired me to fign a paper, which, by the commander's direction, he made out: I took this paper, read it over carefully, then tore it, and laid, that I was determined to fign no paper but fuch as I dictated, and went into the office, whither the fecretary alfo came, and acquainted the commander with what I had faid and done, all which I affirmed was true, nor did I value the confeqnence. After many altercations, and much time loft in childilh wranglings, peace was again concluded. The Vice-governor wanted much to know what palled in the admiralty, and the admiralty wanted as much to know what was faid or clone by the government people; but, for the fake of peace, I kept both in ignorance. At laft, the Governor, by his intrigues, had again obtained pofleftion of the Princefs of the Kalmuck's children, and, having conveyed them with a ftrong guard to Mofcow, returned to Aftrachan, when he brought with him a royal mandate from the cabinet, fign* eel by the Emprefs, commanding that the admiralty in Aftrachan ftiould ever after be o-bedient to the directions of the governors in all civil affairs, and in every thing, except purely what belonged to (hipping, of which, it was reafonably prefumed, they could be no judges. judges. This was indeed a very great blow> and I was as lorry for it as any belonging to the admiralty; though ever fo innocent, I was blamed as the caufe : But every one may eafily perceive that it proceeded purely from the ill-concerted and ill-timed ffubbornnefs of our commander* Before I finilh this chapter, I muff, acquaint the reader, that I was informed, that the Princefs of the Kalmucks and her children were treated with all politenefs, and as illuffrious perfonages, at Mofcow : And that when the Emprefs arrived in that city, (lie deigned to pay them a vifit, and was fo fond ef them that fhe gave them very great pol-felfions to enable them to live in a princely manner. The Princefs and her children took fuch liking to the Emprefs, that they all were baptized, and the Emprefs flood god-ino-ther. As I was at a great diftance from the feat of the Swedifh war, I fliall not treat of it minutely, but give a general account of the incredible fuccefs of the Ruffian arms, as I Was informed. Early Marfhal Lacy and General Keith, two foldiers who never turned their backs upon any number, marched with the Ruffian army through Finland, rather like a great company of hunters than any thing cite. They, with no great trouble, broke through all opposition, took all the Swedifh hatteiies and out-pofts, till they arrived at O Frederickftiam, Frederickfliam, making prifoners of all wlia fell not in making their feeble refiftance. At Frederickfliam the Rnllian army doubted not that a very formidable Hand would have been made ; but, before meafures had been taken to invert, properly that ftrong place, in the night, between the 2.8th. and 29th of June, it was fet on fire by the Swedes, which burnt up very conficlerable magazines of provifion, forage, and gun-powder, with all the houfes. As the Ruffians did not endeavour to fave the place, nothing was lefc but the cannon ; and indeed it would have been very imprudent to have riiked the lives of fuch brave troops, bccaufe the burfting of many hundred charged bombs made it inacceffible, without madly expofing the troops to certain death. After this luccefs, the Ruffians palfed the Key men, and with care drove the fugitive Swedes before them; they halted not till they approached Helfingfors, to which place they purfued the Swedes, who burnt all their own villages and hamlets, to render the march of the Ruffians as troublefome as was poffiblc ; but at Helfingfors, it was faid, they made their only refiftance this year's campaign, and that very feeble; for though they were well fortified both by nature and art, the whole Swedifh army were obliged in the month of Atiguft to capitulate, the tenor of which was in general, That, on the 25th of Auguft, the Ruffians took polfeffion of a^ the the Swedifh ports, and alfo were put in pof-feflion of all their grand magazines and warlike ftores, pro vifions of all kinds, and forage. They permitted the Swedifli. army to retire into Sweden with their fmall arms ; but the Finland foldiers laid down their arms, and took their oaths of fidelity to the Empire of Ruflia, The number of Finhnders who were difarmed, were upwards of {even thoufand men. AH the Swedifh artillery was fent to St Peterfburgh : It was affirmed that between fifty and fixty brafs cannon were ex-poled before the Emprefs in St Peterfburgh. The victorious army remained in Finland during the winter, to be ready againff the next feafon, in cafe peace was not concluded. Nothing worth relating was performed by the fleets on eirher fide, except feizing a merchant fliip from London to St Peters-burgh, and carrying the crew and two of my brothers (the one a merchant in St Peterfburgh, and the other a youth of about fixteen years of age, coming to me for his e-ducation, the fame who was killed at the ^Wo, formerly taken notice of) into Got-tenfcurgh, and detaining them there two or three weeks, till orders were brought for their being honourably releafecl, and all their damages made good ; and at the fame time, for punifhing the foolifh captain who feized them, by ordaining him to work in the cop-Pcv-mines for fix months, CHAP. CHAP. VIII. Concerning what happened on the Borders of Per-fa by Koidi Khan, THE fummer was not far advanced, when Lieutenant-general Tarakanoff was dif-patched with three regiments to Kizlaar, to accept of a propofed friendlhip and fidelity from many of the Circaflian, Georgian, and the reft of the Dageftan Tartar chiefs, and alfo to obferve the motions of Kouli Khan, upon whofe honour little truft was to be put. Tarakanoff having finifhed his commiffion, did not flay long at Kizlaar; but having left inftrucTions with the commandant of Kizlaar, returned fbon into Ruflia. The Georgian Prince, general of artillery, accompanied by many of his natives, properly his fubjecls, arrived in Aftrachan, where he waited all this fummer, in expectation that war would have been declared a-gainft the Perfians. Indeed, with us every thing looked very much that way. In Aftrachan, amongft the great, every thing was tranfacled with fuch fecrecy, that nothing from them was to be known ; but amongft the officers of the regiments it was faid, that a very considerable army of regulars were on their m arc h for A ftrachan. I d oub c n ot that fuch reports. reports, and the troublefome Dageflans, who, at different times, cut off the flower of Kouli Khan's army, hindered that barbarian from falling upon the city of Kizlaar, and borders of Ruifia ; for he advanced as far as Targu, Where his army, ftarving, having very fcanty allowance of provifions, was day and night, almoft confhantly aflaulted by fmall bodies of thefe brave highlanclers ; and at laft, in no hnall confufion, with the lofs of the greateft part of his artillery, was obliged to retire to a cattle he had built, as a bridle upon Ufmei, a Dageftan potent prince. But I fliall confine myfelf here only to what properly belongs to Aftrachan, referring an account of Kouli Khan, his tranfactions, and particularly with the brave Dageflans and Lelgees, to a proper place in my travels through that country. The firft thing which happened at St Peterfburgh this year, was the bringing of the ftate prifoners, formerly mentioned, to the Icaffold, where they all had their lives granted. Count Ofterman placed his neck upon the block, as he was ordered ; but when mer-cy was declared to him, he was fo far gone, that it was thought he would not recover, the reft were faid to be very anxious about the confequences of death : But it is very remarkable, that Count Muinich (who was the next to Ofterman, brought to the ftage, covered with faw-cluft, as if Ofterman had fuf- fered) fered) was drafted in a decent clean manner, and whilft the orders were reading, declaring his crimes and manner of execution, he was amufing himfelf by obferving the regularity of the guards, who, under his command, had lately fo fingularly beaten the Turks. It is a cuffom in Ruflia, that, when the Imperial decree is reading, every one pre-fent is obliged, let the cold be ever fo great, to be uncovered. The Field-marlhal, it feems, did not obferve that ceremony, of which indifference the general of police took notice, defiring him to be uncovered; to which he very indifferently made anfwer, that the Emprefs required his head, but not his cap. It was faid, that, when he was ordered to lay his neck upon the block, he did it with the lame indifference, and it was declared that her Majefty was pleafed to grant his life, and banifh him to Pelym. He not only was permitted to take his chaplain with him at the EmprefVs expence, but was allowed from the crown a ruble fer day, e-nough for the fupport of hl9 family in that plentiful country. I was aftbred that fome* time after he had been there, not being ac-cuftomed to live without action, he formed and drefled, with his own hands, a very beautiful garden ; but, this not being fufRcient for his amufement, he begged, and obtained liberty to form a military fchool, by which means the youth in Siberia were rendered ve* fy expert foldiers. He was in a bad ftate of health when he was fent into Siberia, but recovered fo well, that he was recalled to St -Peterfburgh after the death of the Emprels Elifabeth, and was, as the news-papers in? formed us, conftituted judge of the tournament lately exhibited in St Peterfburgh. I never heard any thing remarkable about the reft, wherefore I fliall lay no more about mem, only that the old Count Ofterman died on the way to banifliment. Mr Malloch my countryman died this mmmer, and I was ordered to officiate for him by the garrifon and field-hofpitals till another was appointed in his place. This additional employment was extremely fatiguing to me ; but I did not care to refufe it, being lenlible of the neceflity. The Duke of Holftein arrived in St Peterfburgh on the 5th of February. On the 21ft inftant his birth-day was celebrated for the firft time in St Peters-hurgh, being then fifteen years of age. The Emprefs his aunt made him many rich presents ; and fhe made no fecret in declaring that fhe intended to make him her heir to die Empire ; but that could not be done legally llntil he had publickly embraced the Greek religion. On the 25th April the Emprefs was crowned with great folemnity. Upon this occafion, the Duke of Holftein ilad the honours paid him due to the ^and Duke of Rullia ; and, at the fame time in voyages and time, it was recommended to him to take inft ructions from the bifhops of Rezan and Novogorod, that he might be foon prepared to profefs the Greek religion, and be publicly qualified to enjoy all the actual honours and immunities belonging to the Grand Duke of Ruifia, which happened on the 7th November at Mofcow, where he was pub-* licly rebaptized in the Greek religion, by the name of Peter Feodorovitch, and by his aunt declared her neareft relation,and the only lawful heir to the crown of Ruifia. An inftru-ment was made out, declaring him Grand Duke, and requiring that all perfons Ihould give him the title of Imperial Highnefs. He was alfo declared to be Protecfor and Prince of all the foreigners, and had many very grand prefents made him by the Emprels. I was told,that, upon this occafion, the prieft5 did not caufe the Grand Duke go through this ceremony fo rigoroufly as they do to 0-ther people. I never faw the ceremony performed, although I might have gratified tiif curiofity in Aftrachan, as fliall be related i but I have been allured, that they are not fa-tisfied with a perfon's publicly renouncing his former tenets, for love of the Greek, bu£ they infift upon his expreffing, in a veiy grofs manner, his deteftation of his former relig^ on, and declaring that he firmly believed that his parents, and every one profefling that re* ligion, to be in a ftate of damnation, and to jnak^ make his deteftation appear greatly dilagreeable, he fpits three times, and finiflies tho farce by fealing all up with taking the facra-Juent. Soon after the Grand Duke was rebapti-^ed, the Emprefs took great pains to gain profelytes, and bribed, efpecially Chriftians, Very high. An Imperial decree was pnbhfli-ed, declaring that, as an encouragement to all foreigners in her fervice, her Imperial Majefty was gracioufly pleafed to grant great pofleflions of villages; and alfo, to every one who Qiali voluntarily profefs the Greek religion, that Hie would caufe advance him a rank higher than the one he then held in the army or fleet. At this time, our Governor, who only made a fuperficial profei-fton of the Greek religion, laughing publicly at all the other feels of Chriftians, recommended it ftrongly to me to be rebaptized, pointing out all the advantages I ftiould receive; and went fo far as to infure me, that the Emprefs and the Grand Duke would honour the ceremony with their prefence as fponfors. I anfwered in very few words, that I truly could make no companion between the reformed religion which I profef-and the Greek ; that I thought I was convinced of very many abfurdities and incredibilities in the Greek ; that if at any time I might have reaibn to impugn any part of the belief of the reformed, I fliould run P no no rifk in fo doing ; but that if I profefled die Greek, I thou Id be obliged, every time I thought of it, to conlider myfelf abfolutely a liar, and a fellow abandoned to all that was bad, for not only acting contrary to the principles of my own understanding, but in decoying, deceiving, and, contrary to all principles of honour, bringing up my young family in a way fo contrary to my own knowledge ; and laflly, of making them, (who derived liberty naturally from me and their mother, being both Britifh) flaves to Rullia. Thefe thoughts, I told him, were fo very contrary to my way of thinking, that I would fooner fee every one of them who were already born, or after this might fpring fromnie, dead, than bear the thoughts that they, or their children, would caft reflexions on my memory for having, fo much like a fool,furrendered up their liberty• Laflly, I did not fcruple to declare, that 1 looked upon all foreigners, to be either abfolutely infamous, void of all honour, or elfe extremely ignorant, and foolifh to acl in fuch a way : That I was pofitive it would not appear compatible to reafonable men to think that a man who would fo bafely forfeit his honour, could ever prove a true fubject either to the Emprefs or Empire. The Governor, however, was very frequently, moft dilagreeable to me, plaguing me with his de-fires of having me profefs the Greek religion; not- notwithstanding, I fcrupled not to tell him, that many people believed, that though he himfelf profefled the Greek religion publicly, yet laughed at it in fecret; and that, his great knowledge in men and things, rendered fuch reports very credible. He Was fo far from being angry at the news I told him, that he could not conceal his fatis-faction by a fmile, and obferved, that he doubted not there were good and bad in all the feels of Chriflians ; that, for his part, as a good fubjecl, he would find no fault with a-ny part of the Greek religion, however ab-furd it might appear to himfelf, for fear of giving grounds for caufing fchifms. He faid, that what was reafonable he would give credit to, and what was other ways he Would overlook, without publicly profelling any deteflation. Mr Tatifhoff was one of the learnedeft men in the Empire of Ruflia, tho* he never had an academical education: He had ftndied all the liberal arts and fcienccs, and underftood them all well. If he had had a right notion of honour and morality, he would have certainly proved a very extraordinary man ; but the want of thefe qualifications rendered great part of his learning only ufeful to him in detecting other people's crimes, and defending himfelf from the in-quell of others, as will be taken notice of in due time. He admired Leibnetz, Locke, «acon, Sir Ifaac Newton, the Special or, and many many other learned authors. He correfpond* ed with the bifhop of Upfal, and the moft learned men in Europe ; but ftill he tarnifh-ed all thefe qualifications by a very bale, fordid, cruel practice of flicking at nothing to gratify his avarice, and acquire wealth. CHAP. IX. Concerning what happened in Raffia, and the Confines of Aftrachan, in the Tear 1743, and firft of the Per fans. IObferved laft year, that Kouli Khan had retreated to his caftle not far from the north fide of Derbent, in order to bridle the potent Dageftan Prince Ufme: He, however, having reinforced his army, made early this year a fudden attempt upon the borders of Circaffia, of which the Governor of Aftrachan having been made acquainted, lent orders for a few troops who were in Tzarit-zin to march for Aflrachan immediately, not* withftanding it was in the time of the ftrong-eft froft. In January the remains of three regiments arrived, having loft fome hundreds that were frozen to death. They alfo brought with them between five and fix hundred frozen, of which number I was obliged to amputate the arms and legs of feventy five the firft week, exclusive of fingers and toes, toes, of which little notice was taken. As foon as the healthy men had refted a few days in Aftrachan, fifteen hundred received orders to march to Kizlaar with four thoufand Coffacks to join about five hundred troops who garrifoned that caftle, and the irregular forces, inhabitants of that country. Kouli Khan was known to be deceitful, dif-honourable, a man in whom no truft was to be put ; bold, intrepid, and incomparably politic. The Governor of Aftrachan fitted him exactly ; for tho' he was no general, yet he did not want the qualifications of a good politician and counfelior, where his intereft did not blind his reafon. Every thing was in readinefs to deftroy the ice about Aftrachan to render the Volga im-paflible, and the whole city was in a great ferment ; notwithstanding, he took all the care he could for the prefervation of the city, and, (knowing well that if he ftiould alarm Konli Khan^ it would have a better effecl than any feeble refiftance he could make with the fmall number of troops he then had in A-ftrachan) ordered a lieutenant and two trumpets upon the river Agrachan, which forms the borders on the fouth fide of Andreoffke Derevna, or village. The lieutenant went upon the north fide of Agrachan, oppofite the Perfian camp, and caufed the trumpets to blow ; then, in a formal manner, declared War, in the Emprefs's name, againft the Shach Shack and Empire of Perfia,if trie Sophi fliould pals in a hoftile manner that river, which had been acknowledged die limits between the two Empires. The Perfians, alarmed at what they law and heard, loon made their Shach acquainted with what had happened, who lent to defire the lieutenant to approach his tent, and demanded to know what was the reafon of blowing his trumpets, and reading the paper. The lieutenant anfwered him, that as he was an officer in the Ruffian regular army, according to his office and duty, by order of the Governor of Aflrachan, who was authorized by the Emprefs, he had made a formal declaration of war againft his Majefty and the Empire of Perfia, if his Majefty's troops palled over that river, the well known boundary of the two Empires, in a hoftile manner: He faid, he doubted not that his Majefty would approve of his having done his duty as became the honour of an officer. The franknefs, opennefs, and eafe with which the lieutenant made this fhort declaration, and his determined look, manly figure and deportment, gained the elteem of the Shach. Kouli Khan afked him many quefli-ons about the number of regular and irregular troops that were already affemblecl in the kingdom of Aftrachan ; to which the lieutenant gave anfwers according to his inftructi-ons, and told him, at the fame time, that fixty thoufand regulars wrcre in full march upon upon the borders of that kingdom for the city of Aftrachan ; that he was affured thefe iixty thoufand were deflined to be fent by fea to the Perfian provinces on the fouth of the Cafpian, in cafe a war fliould prove inevitable ; becaufe, faid he, that there were already troops enough to defend the kingdom of Ailrachan againft any number of enemies; efpecially conlidering that provifions of all kinds were laid up in magazines, and confe-quently no foreign army could fubfift any time without they had provifions from their own country. The Shach then queftioned him about the progrefs of the Swedifh war ; to which the lieutenant made anfwer, that the Swedes, having loft more than the half of their veteran army, either killed or pri-foners in Ruifia, and almofl the whole great province of Finland, were fueing for peace, and many of the greateft potentates of Europe were afliffing to get the Emprefs per-fuaded to grant a peace ; therefore he doubted not that peace would'be proclaimed foon : But he affured the Shach, that that war was of no bad confequences to the Ruffians, as they never could run the leafl rifk of danger from fuch impotent enemies ; but added, that it ferved to train their men, as the Swedes were juflly efteemed very regular gallant troops. The Shach having fatisfied his curiofity, as far as he judged neceffary, commended the officer, officer, made him a very considerable pre^ fent in money, and told him that he had no deflgn againft the Empire of Rullia : That he had marched his army fo far north in hopes of being furnifhed with provifions for ready money from the inhabitants of Cir-caffia : But finding that Circaflia was in no condition to provide for fo great numbers of troops, he was refolved to return fouth-wards, and take another opportunity of pu-iiiftiing the Degaftan Tartars, who had fo audacioufly rebelled againft him ; though, by the bye, they were fo far from imagining that they could be deemed rebels, that they defied the Shach to fhew an inftance that a majority of them had ever acknowledged any subjection to the Empire of Perfia; nay, laft year it is certain that many of their Princes, at their own defire, were taken under the protection of Ruffia. The lieutenant, having ended his commiflion, received letters from Major Chan the Shach's Grand Vifier to the government of Aftrachan, and at the fame time fent off couriers to his ambaftador at St Peterfburgh to acquaint all concerned of the Shach's peaceable difpofition, and intreat the Emprefs to give orders for her Governor in Aftrachan to fend two or three fhips loaded with meal for the fupport of his army at Derbent, whither he proceeded in all hafle, as they were almoft ftarved with hunger and frozen zen to death with cold hi that barren country. Many faid, and it is not altogether improbable, that this plan of the Shach's marching fuddenly down to Agrachan, and of the declaration, as has been above taken notice of, was privately agreed upon betwixt the Shach and the Governor, to give a pretence for fending off fome provifions for the relief of his army, in order lb eafily lo be quit of, and remove to a great diftance, fo turbulent a neighbour; for the lieutenant no fooner arrived in Aflrachan than the Governor, altogether contrary to the advice °f his counfel, gave orders for one great fliip to load immediately provifions for Der-bent. He lent off a courier to the cabinet, acquainting them of all he had done, and reprefenting, in his own way, the neceffity of taking upon himfelf to act in this manner, in order fo eafily to get quit of lb formidable and faithlefs an enemy, and demanded, that, what he had already been obliged to do, from pure neceffity, as healled-ged, might be approved of by the cabinet : And, as he was privy coimfellor, he humbly offered his advice, that he might have an imperial order fent him, commanding him to lend two or three fhips more, to enable the Shach to remove his army farther {till from the borders of Aflrachan : Obferv-lng that he, the Governor would take care, that that the Shach fliould never have any great {lore of provifion at one time, but be kept at very fhort allowance ; and alfo that if he the Shach did not begin to march his troops foon ; in that cafe to order him to withdraw all affiftance. He obferved that it would be a means to get rid of a moft dangerous potentate, and at the fame time, it could not fail to enrich die Ruffian merchants in Aftrachan. Thus gilded, the pill was greedily fwallowed by the cabinet. A flaming order was brought, commending and approving of every thing Tatifhoff had done, and granting all his demands; giving him ftill a power to act, upon the moft preiling neceffity, according to the dictates of his reafon : But that, whatever he did, he ought, without lofs of time, to make known to the cabinet, fubfcribed by himfelf and the other great officers belonging to the government of Aftrachan. The Governor having got all that he defired, exulted greatly, efteeming every one in the government little elie than fo many ufelefs men. I imagine that four or five fhips loaded, only with coarfe meal of wheat, a fack of which, in Aftrachan, was to be bought for three fhillings and nine pence Sterling, or eighty copeaks Rufs, and in "Derbent, the merchant received ready cafli twenty five and twenty fix rubles per fack : This was a very extraordinary profit, by which many poor travels; 123 poor merchants gained very great fortunes: Although it was commonly believed that the Governor alone got the half of all the merchants profits, befides fome unknown pre-fents, probably not inconfiderable from the Shach. One evening late, I went into his room to enquire about his health, and found him giving directions to his fervants to fill or pack a fmall chefl with quilted pieces of felt, every one of which was very heavy, and as large as the bottom of the chefl. The chefl being filled full, was made fall, fealed, and directed to his daughter in Mofcow, and when it was removed into the fledge, two very able men found difficulty to carry it. Thefe trail factions were done fo openly, that I, not then acquainted with that part of the Great Peter's regulations, defired one of the principal merchants to take a fmall fum of fpare money I had, to buy meal to be fent for my intereft to the Perfian camp; but wasanfwered, that it was greatly againft the regulations for any officer to trade, and highly punifhable: I obferved to him the Governor's practice, which he feemed to make no fecret of: He faid, that the time might come when he the Governor might repent that; altho'for the prefent, he might c-lcape: However that time never happened. I {hall make an end of this chapter by acquainting the reader that Kouli Khan or the Shach repafted fouth between the feas and mountains tains towards the Mogan del-art before winter came on, having done much harm to bleeding Perfia, efpecially the provinces I have been in, without making any lolid or real acquisition, at the great expence of more than eighty thoufand of his own troops, concerning whom I fliall fay no more at prefent ; referring what I have to fay to a more proper opportunity, when I fliall give a brief account of the moff material traiii^ actions of this wonderful man ! CHAP. X. Concerning the Operations of the Sivedijh War and of the Peace concluded this Tear. rTP,HE firft operation which we hadnoticeof JL this year was the taking of the ifland of Aland from the Swedes, and their taking of it again from the Ruffians. The truth is, that this ifland was left without any foldiers to defend it, and confequently eafily taken with a fmall number of men, nor did the Swedes offer any refiftance, wifely confider-ing that oppofition would have been the caufe, poflibly, of their utter deftruciion, without the fmalleft advantage to their native country : However, the Swedes fent a fuperior force, and without much difficulty regained Aland. The Swedifh army lay en- encamped on the other iide of the gulph,and many provilion-veffels for the fupport of that army lay in a gulf, or rather fmall bay. General Keith then commanded the Ruffian army. The Ruffian fleet was not as yet arrived, and conlequently the army could do Httle, as they had no velfels either to protect or efcort them. Every perfon knows that this Aland lies in the mouth of the great fjothnick gulf, and therefore would have been of confiderable advantage to the Ruffians, had they kept poffellion of it, for keeping their magazines, and fafety for their tranf-ports, if the war had been carried on with Vigour this year ; but both the Ruffians and Swedes expected that peace would be foon agreed to ; and therefore, it is very probable, that the Ruilians did not profecute the war with all their wonted vigour, efpecially as a congrefs was fitting at Abo, and many of the moft potent northern princes had fent their miniiters to Abo to allifl at this congrefs, in order to get a peace concluded, as much to the fatisfaction of both nations as the nature of tilings could admit of: From all which, and from what I have been told, viz. That Aland was conquered only by a few irregular troops, and therefore was the fooner re-taken by the Swedifh regular troops ; for General Keith was, with his army, on the well of Abo, and conlequently at too great diftance to protect any petty advantage vantage the irregular Ruffian troops might take of the enemy. This defcent was altogether unknown to that general, till all was effected ; for the irregulars very frequently, for the love of plunder and forage, make wide extended fallies, altogether unknown to the chief commander ; and altho* they are often reproved, and fometimcs punched, yet, in the main, the generals wink at it for many reafons. They have orders fo to do, chiefly for thefe following reafons : All the irregular troops are either Coffacks, Kalmucks, or o-ther Tartars, who border on Turkey, Perfia, and other principalities, and confequcntly a wife government never will attempt to treat fuch men with rigour, for fear of a revolt. The CofTacks acknowledge fubjeclion to the Empire of Ruflia, and are Chriftians ; but at the fame time, live chiefly by their own laws, and infift upon their liberties, which the reft of the subjects of Ruflia know nothing of. The Kalmucks acknowledge no fubjection, but only live under the protection of Ruflia. They are barbarous to a great degree, but yet they muft be treated with great lenity ; for, if they do not incline to leave their own country, the whole force of Ruflia is not able to oblige them, nor even their prince, unlefs with the approbation of their feniors, of which there are a great number, fome of which are lords over five or fix thoufand fighting fighting men ; with whom the Khan dare not differ, unlefs he is certain of a very great majority. The other Tartars are fome of them declared fohjects of Ruflia, but under fubjeclion of their Murzas, and others only acknowledge protection, but deny any manner of fubjeclion. For thefe, and many o-ther reafons, the Ruffian generals are obliged to behave with great prudence to thefe wild people, whom they never punifli except tor crimes, which are acknowledged to be fuch hy their own chiefs. The Swedes had, as I was well informed, a very refpeclable body of men, ftrongly encamped near Helfingfors, protected on the fea fide by two very large praams and other Veflels, as well as tranfports, in a bay defend ed by an ifland. They were fo ftrongly fortified, that the Ruffians did not think proper* to attack their camp, but fortified them-felves, and approached very circumfpectly. The Swedes were plentifully fupplied with all manner of provifions, brought by fea into a fmall bay on the right of the Swedifh army. Many tranfports lay loaded in this hay, defended by two large praams, (fuch veflels were defcribed formerly) the largeft mounting one hundred pieces of cannon. Count Lacy had returned to St Peterlburgh, leaving the command of the army to his honoured friend General Keith. A conorefs was at that time fitting in Abo not far diftant, ftant, and General RomantzofF was the principal commillioncr from Ruifia. When they little expected any news, they were alarmed with a dreadful cannonading, and not knowing the caufe, couriers being difpatched from both lides, all the accounts RomantzofF could get was only, that it was fome fcheme of General Keith's; but they could learn, at that time, nothing die. At this General RomantzofF expreffed great fatisfaction, and faid to the Swediih. commiifioners, that if they would not inftantly implicitly agree to his propofals, he then would be at liberty to change his moderate demands ; at the fame time, telling them, that he was morally certain that the fcheme of General Keith's would turn out to the glory of the Ruffian arms ; for, laid he, Keith's fchemes never failed of fuccefs. This was the honourable opinion one general in chief had of another! "fhe noife of cannon lafted not long, till all was quiet, and then they were informed that General Keith obferving that it would be im-poffible to proceed farther, without great blood-flied, until they could become maflers of this bay, fent orders to the commander of the Ruffian gallies, that next morning, by the break of day, he fliould order two or three of the gallies to advance into a fmall gut of deep water, and there remain till farther orders : The commander returned anfwer, that the general's orders were impracticable ; but the the general fent a fecond order, and strengthened it, by letting him know, that if he made any objections to his fecond order, his fecond in command had his pofitive orders to put him under confinement,to be tried byacourt-niartial, if, with great circumfpeclion and fecrecy, he obeyed not the orders upon which the fafety of the whole army might depend. The general had ordered proper veffels to be loaded with fuch things as were neceffary for the execution of his project in fome covered creek, altogether out of view of the Swedes : and, when it turned dark, he delivered the command of the army, with proper instructions, to his fecond in command, and went on board the aforesaid tranfports, Which he directed to be rowed to the ifland with the greatest fecrecy. The ifland lay in the month of the bay ; on the one fide it Was very deep water, fit to fwim any veflel, but impaflible on the other, even by boats. The praams were stationed as batteries to hinder any fhip of war from getting into the hay : But the Swedes had never fortified the ifland,believing the praams sufficient to fcour the whole ifland, which was covered over with coppices and reeds. The general not only landed on this ifland a fufflcient num-her of cannon and other warlike instruments and ammunition, but railed a good battery in the night time, upon which the fuccets of his project depended. R Next Next morning, the Swedes obferved fome of the Ruffian gallies to row, directing their courfe towards this ifland, and not knowing what intention they might have, they caufed both the praams to warp into the before-mentioned deep palfage, either to prevent their palfage into the bay, or their landing on the ifland. The largeff praam, called the Hercules, fufpecting no danger, took her Ration oppofite to the Ruffian hidden battery, at a very inconllderable diftance from it, and, when they were making difpolitions to prevent the operations of the Ruffian gallies, the battery fired upon them moft unexpectedly, fuddenly covering the Hercules with hand-granadoes and fmall bombs, which prefently put an end to their fighting ; and fcarcely had the Ruffian granadoes done all their execution, when a body of brave men made themfelves mailers of this praam, which very fbon hienced the other ; upon which all the tranfports in the bay became a prize to the Ruffians. The want of provifions, no pro-fpect of fupplies getting to them, and an im-poffibility of retreating, forced them to capitulate, by which they obliged themfelves to evacuate, in a limited time, the province of Finland ; but the preliminaries of the peace were ratified at this time, which put an end to the war, and it was haflened by JYh* Keith's ma Iter ly and decifive operations. By By this peace the Ruffians obtained all the Finland territories eaft of the gut or river Keymene, and this was declared to be an e-ternal peace and friendlhip between the Ruffian and Swedifh nations ; in confequence of which Prince Adolph Frederick administrator of Holftein and Bifliop of Lubeck, was declared fucceflbr to the crown of Sweden. The plenipotentiaries figned this peace 011 the 16th day of June, and having been approved of by the ftates of Sweden, it was proclaimed in Stockholm on the 20th fame month. Though it caufed an univcrfal joy to the more fenfible men in Sweden, yet the wild barbarous Dalcarlians railed fome di-fturbance in Stockholm ; for a body of between, four and five thoufand of them affem-bled, and, having approached near the city, the King went himfelf to them, and, in the moft friendly manner, advifed them to return into their own country, which they pro-mi fed to do ; yet no fooner was the King returned to his palace, than, in a very rude manner, they entered Stockholm, and feized upon fix pieces of cannon ; and, at laft, their boldnefs grew to fuch height, that they fired npon, wounded, and killed fome of theKing's men. Notwithftanding all this, the good old King, hoping to fave the lives of many of his fubjecis, fent to them, and ufed all friendly means to get them to return to their duty; but at laft, feeing every attempt failed ed, the King ordered his guards to march a^ gainft them, and ftill unwilling to do great execution, only, as was faid, one piece of cannon being fired amongft them, killed 40 and wounded many. This had the defired effect; they threw down their arms, and called out for mercy ; however, three or four hundred were taken into cuftody to be tried for their opt rages. On the 16th July, Lieutenant-general Bo-denbrock was beheaded ; but Count Lowen-, hopt fuffered only on the 30th of that month, occasioned by the nobility's tiling all their intereft for his pardon, and in the meanwhile his making his efcape out of prifon ; but he was unfortunately taken by fome brutal captain, juft as he was going on board a fhip, cloathed in a failor's drefs ; and not-with flan ding, it was faid, that the whole body of nobility, and privately the King, iifed their utmoft intereft and policy to get him faved, this could not be effected, as it was oppofed by the clergy and peafants. chap* C H A P. XL Concerning the different Affairs and Anecdotes which happened daring the Courfe of the Tear 1743* THE firft thing worth obferving this year is a memorable edict, ordering all general officers to pay twenty per cent, of their falaries, and thofe of the medical faculty fifteen per cent. The generals paid it, and I had no objection. I do not know how it could happen fo generally, but fo it really did happen, that the greateft part of the phyfi-cians and furgeons, not jointly, but feparate-ly, petitioned their chancery, imploring the Emprefs's lenity, reprefenting the hardlhips which they had fuffcred through the war, their being foreigners, and the diftrefs it would caufe them who had families to provide for, to pay fuch impolition, which only was incumbent upon the natives of Ruifia,and the moft wealthy. This had the effect; for every one belonging to the Ruffian fervice, whether in the army or in the fleet, did pay their appointed proportion, except thofe belonging to the faculty ; for which thanks were due to Count Lefloig, who effectually reprefented the hardftiips put upon that re-fpeclable body of men under his directions. The The royal family, who were kept in cufto-dy at Riga in Livonia, to which city they were fent, after having been captivated by the Emprefs Elifabeth, were very unfortunate this year ; for, in the month of January, they being at that time confined in the citadel of Riga, but not clofe, nor rigo-rouffy looked after, three hundred of the guards were the troops who were appointed to take care of them, it feems Prince Erneft Ulrick began to be uneafy under his confinement. It was faid, that he had exprefled himfelf to his Princefs in the moft pathetic manner, propofing to make his efcape, with hopes foon to relieve her and her young family, to which flie would not agree, rather chufing death than a feparation from him. Determined however, he drefled himfelf, unknown to her, in women's cloaths, paffcd the guards without fufpicion, and walked towards the wall next the river, which is not high. (A defcription of this city will be given afterwards, when I relate my travels in thefe countries.) He had fcarcely reached the place where he defigned to get over, when he was overtaken and feized by the guards, who had the only information of his efcape from his own Princefs, who, as was already faid, could not think of living without his company. The commander of the guards, not knowing how to behave with fuch illuftrious prj- loners, loners, applied to Field-marlhal Count Lacy for directions, who fent them all to the ftrong callle called Dunamunde, fituated in the mouth of the river Dwina, and ought properly, according to the meaning of the Germans, who gave it this name, to be called Dwina-mundt or mouth. In this caffle this il-luftrious and unfortunate family was kept but for a fhort time, when orders arrived from Peterfburgh, to tranfport them fouthward to a caflle called Ivanburgh, which formerly belonged to the famous Prince MenzicofF, fituated in the province of Veronitz. They were not kept very long there, where the Princefs Anne of Mecklemburgh died, till they again were tr an fported to Or an burgh. They were likewife kept but a fhort time there, when they were again tranfported to fome ifland in the White Sea. The above account, which I have given of that unfortunate illuflrious family, I do not fay is abfo-lutely true, but I can aver that this is what has been whifpered, as it were, to me, and Was laid to be true ; for, in thefe times, it Was moft dangerous, fo much as to mention aoy thing belonging to them. They never Were fpoken of but amongft true friends ; nor did I ever hear any thing more about them, except the melancholy accounts we lately were informed of by the news-papers, too hard for me to recite, and too cruel for for any Chriftian to believe, were the clear, the too clear proofs, not extremely evident I A plot was difcovered this year in July at St Peterfburgh, which, though I can give a very true account of it, I could wilh that I could have been held excufed ; and only be-caufe, in my opinion, it throws a dark veil over the general good opinion men had of the tender fentiments of the late Emprefs Elifabeth ; but my promife to give a true account of whatever I knew, obligeth me to give the following narration of barbarity and cruelty, for a crime very black, if true, but, in many countries in Europe, the proofs would not have been fufEcient to incarcerate them, far lefs punifti them. Mr Falkenberg, lieutenant in the navy, formerly adjutant to the late Admiral Gordon, was the perfon who difcovered this plot, which was in the following manner: After Admiral Gordon's death, which happened in the year 1741, this perfon was appointed to do his duty in the fleet as lieutenant; lie was mailer of, and underftood well, all the European living languages, and therefore was very proper for being a firft, or adjutant-general to a commander in chief of the whole navy of Ruflia, who never exactly underftood the language, nor could neither read nor write it. Many tranfactions happened in the fleet of no bad confequence to the Empire, nor to the general good of the navy ; but purely perfonal, t# private officers, fuch as fending diem, contrary to the regulations of the Empire, to diftant places, and upon hard duty, when it Was not their office, out of courfe, and when others ought to have been appointed, and probably for taking bribes to get them excu-fed by the admiral. During the admiral's lifetime no notice was taken of this practice; but after his death many complained to the board of admiralty, not againft the admiral, but againft Falkenberg, holding him only guilty. Every one was very certain that frequently the admiral did not know any thing of thefe affairs, which he had entrufted Falkenberg with, which is too often the cafe in aft countries. Falkenberg was in St Peterfburgh at this timc,folliciting the admiralty about fome affair; and as it neeeftarily colt him all his attention to make friends there, Where he had not been a little blackened, he Was glad of all opportunities of paying his retpects to any of the great men in the admiralty, and elfewhere. Mr Alexander Zi-hin was general commiftary in the fleet, a place of underneath the fkin was all like a honeycomb*. I helitated not to fay, that it was very uncertain whether he was curable, but I fufpected a hidden cure might prove his death. The governor, however, urged a trial in obedience to her Maje-fty's order. As he was a man of great learning, good fenie, and reafon, I begged that he would endeavour to hold me excufed to her Majefty, confidering that I had too good reafon to fufpect an apoplexy might fucceecL This he promifed to do, and effected accordingly. Some time after that, another order from St Peterfburgh commanded that I fliould attend upon him, if afflicted with any other difeafeJ He was kept in a plealant garden, not far from my hofpital. I heard nothing concerning him till October, when, in the middle of the night I was fent for. When I arrived at the houfe, I found him in an incurable apoplectic fit, furrounded with forty or fifty priefts fmging hymns for his recovery, and putting up their prayers to heaven, not doubting of their potent effect, I was told, that thefe very people had been attempting to cure his head; and that they had applied many things, the principal of which was vitriol and verdegreafe. Though I pro-gnofticated his death, yet I directed all the help I could for his recovery, without fuc- U cefs; * Cum caput immehfa petfum porrigine ningit, Copia fanis uti frendentibus edita faxis. cefs; for in about forty eight hours he expired, to the lafl quite infenfible. One day about the middle of June, I was fent for by the governor's orders, to vifit a prifoner, who had cut open his belly from the falfe ribs to the fpine of the ilion. He had done this with a blunt little knife, which it feems had cfcaped the fearch of his keepers; and although he had cut quite through all the teguments, yet the knife had only made a fcarcely perceptible impreffion on fome of the interlines, which he was fupporting with his hands. It feems that his keepers had wrefted the knife from him before he could make any other attempt. As no delicacy" was to be ufed with fuch patients, I fewed up the wound with a large and ftrong fkain of filk ; and as the fellow preffed againft me with all his force, endeavouring to break the future, I entered the needle into the peritoneum, at leafl one inch on each fide of the wound : And this fellow was cured by the application of no other medicine than being fomented with a little corn fpirits, for the Ruffians allow of no medicines for people who deferve death; and, what is very furprifing, he fuffered the painful torture of the knout about fix weeks after this happened. Though out of time and place, for which I beg my reader's forgivenefs, as I have related but one example of the cruel punifh- pients in Ruifia, I forgot to mention what happened happened in Aftrachan laft year. It is uni-verfally known, that the Emprefs Elizabeth made a vow not to let any malefactor be punched with death, for a limited time, which ihe renewed, and, I believe, kept till her death. The governor, Tatifhoff, got early notice, that the Emprefs was going to fend orders for that pnrpofe to all her governors through all her wide extended dominions. Tatifhoff had at that time about 300 prifon-ers, who deferved death by the laws of Ruflia, they being either robbers, pirates, or murderers. So foon as he received that piece of ufeful intelligence, he determined inftantly to clear the jails of fo many ufelefs men, who required about 150 foldiers to keep guard. He therefore ordered five gallowfes, liich as that at Tyburn, to be built, fome wheels and gibbets. In the mean time he proceeded in examining and reprieving or condemning, till the jails were quite clear. I never cared to fee mankind put to death, or othcrwife cruelly treated ; and therefore I faw only fix, the laft of that great number, who fuffered at that time; and this was the reafon of my going at this time. I was well affured, that one of thefe pirates had confelled voluntarily, that he had murdered in cold blood fix-teen unfortunate merchants, amongft whom were many Indians, who, it is well known, being worfhippers of fire, never attempt to kill any creature : And this cruelty he exer- dfed cifed as a piece of diverfion, contrary to the prayers of all his wicked brethren. The Governor could not help afking him the reafon he had for exercifing fo much cruelty on innocent men. He, thinking that he was only to be hanged, anfwered, that every one had their own different plea-fures, and that was one of his : And added, that it was fo much his favourite one, that, faid he, if I was lure to be hanged alive by the ribs ; was I at liberty, and had the fame opportunity I had formerly, I would do what I formerly did. Upon this the Governor pronounced fentence of death upon him, ordering, that he fliould fuffer by being hung up alive by the ribs, and fhould remain hanging till he was quite dead. This flory was immediately told through the whole city. When I heard of it, I doubted not that J would have had courage to have feen fuch a monfler punifhed, if it were poffible, in a more cruel manner, and therefore refolved to go. The officer who commanded the guards was my patient and acquaintance; 1 accordingly walked with him. The Ruffians have no flier iff, any officer being thought fufficient to fee the execution performed. I was enclofed by three rows of foldiers, together with their officers, a few fpeclators, the prieff, malefactors, and executioners. One was hanged, two loft their heads with an ax, and two were broken by the the wheel, in the ordinary way; but this wretch, who was refcrved to the laft, without the fmalleft fign of unealinefs or fear, whofe dreadful vifage frightened me and feveral others, went and laid him himfelf clown upon the bark of a tree, and with his own hand pulled up his fliirt, to difcover the ribs on his right fide. The executioner immediately cut through betwixt the feventh and eighth rib, as near as I could judge at the diftance ; and in attempting to cut between the 10th and 1 ith his knife broke near the point. He had not another, and was going to fend to the city to have this repaired, when the malefactor called out, that it would take up too much time ; adding, that he might fharpen it himfelf; which was accordingly agreed to. And thus fharpened upon a rough free ftone, with it he performed the reft of the operation between the tenth and eleventh ribs, and then took a large hook fixed to a rope at one end, introduced it into one wound and puflied it out of the other near the point. The hook was perforated, the hole was like a flit; into this the executioner introduced a piece of thin iron doubled at its fmalleft extremity, which he preffed a-funder, and fixed it fo that it rendered quite impolfible for the malefactor to unhook himfelf. During this long painful operation, the malefactor made no figns of uneafmefs, but aflifted in giving directions. The rope before 158 V O Y A G S and before mentioned was run over a pully fixed at the end of the gibbet ; the extreme end was held by one of the executioners. When all was ready, they pulled him up hanging by the two ribs to the arm of the gibbet, letting about one yard of the rope remain between his ribs and the pully. When he was pulled from the ground he only groaned, and feized hold of the rope, I fuppofe, to eafe the pain, with his hand ; and railed at the government, no doubt, with a view to irritate the officer to caufe the foldiers (hoot him : But in this he was deceived ; for the commander having appointed proper centi-nels, marched home. This miferable creature died on the third day ; nor would the governor permit him to be fhot, which is ibmetimes done. This was the lafl: execution T ever faw in Ruifia ; and though I imagined that I could have with pleafure feen fuch an abandoned barbarous villain torn all to pieces, it is im-poffible to defcribe the condition I was in during the time of fo terrible punilhments; and though I took a few glalfes of wine, yet I frequently had near fainted. It was im-poffible to get out of the ring of foldiers, for they were preffed hard by many thoufand people behind. CHAP- CHAP. XIII. Concerning what happened remarkable in Ruffla and Aftrachan during the courfe of the year 1744- RUss 1 a was this year at peace with all her neighbours; nor did many things worth notice happen in the empire or Aftrachan. Ruifia was courted by the belligerent powers in Europe ; by the Britifh, to allift them; by the French, fince they found that policy would not allow of their taking their fide in the quarrel, at leaft not to allift their enemies. The minifters on both fides of the difpute at Mofcow did all that was in their power for the intereft of their refpeclive mailers. At laft, word was brought to Aftrachan, that the Marquis de Chetardie, who had been greatly careffed at the court of Ruflia, ever fince the Emprefs Elizabeth mounted the throne, was fuddenly fent out of the country by the Em-prefs's fpecial orders, under the guard of a ferjeant and a few foldiers, to convey him over the borders of Ruflia, in a limited time; and to take care that he, (Chetardie) got leave to fpeak with none till he was out of the empire ; faid to be occafioned by his treafonable practices againft the perfon of her Imperial Majefty ; concerning which a refcript was fent to all the foreign ambalfadors at that court, dated the i6e» VOYAGES a n £? the 6th of June. This was as ft range asf fiidden ; nor did I hear any rational account of it till I arrived in St Peterfburgh in the year 1748. If the following account is true, which I believe is nearly fo, fcarccly any hiftory can give fuch another of fo much lenity for fo hainous crimes, as was fhown this Marquis. He, before this, had received many very diftinguifhed marks of the Emprefs'shigh and lingular efteem, befides many very va-* luable prefents, beyond any ever conferred upon any former foreign minifter. He was honoured with the Emprels's picture, which he wore upon his breaft fet round with very rich and valuable jewels. He was alfo honoured with the order of St Andrew, adorned with many diamonds of great value, fuf-pended by a chain of gold, ornamented with the moft brilliant jewels. The laft time he arrived in Ruflia, though in a private character, and no ambaflador, I was well afllt-red that he was received at Riga with honours only due to a crowned head ; and had the expences of his journey magnificently defrayed by the Emprefs ; and now he was difmilfed under the cuftody of a ferjeant, a prifoner, for two of the worft crimes in the world, treafon, and the blackeft ingratitude. At this time the Emprefs fliewed the moft remarkable lenity to one of the vileft wretches, when compared to the extreme feverity to her own fubjecls for only unguardedly fpeak- ing, ing, as was taken notice of formerly: Which indeed, not unreafonably, rendered her cen-furable by knowing men. The following is the account I had from different people, in which they all agreed. Whilft Marquis Chetardie was in the very height of favour, his palace was fuddenly be-let with 300 foldiers, his papers were feized, and he was kept a Uriel: prifoner for three days ; during which time he did not fhew a-lvy greatnefs of foul; e contra, very great weaknefs; probably felf-condemned by his own confciencc, and expecting the punifliment which he well deferved. The ftory is this: Marquis Chetardie had engaged fome of the Emprefs's fubjecls, not only to dethrone her, who had loaded him with honours, but to murder her in the moft cruel inanner, by burning her and the court, by letting fire to the palace, which was built of Wood ; for which execution he had engaged forty wretches to perform that piece of dia-holical villainy in the night-time. This palace was in the country, diftant about two verfts from Mofcow. Forty men were actually f-ized in one night by the guards, and plenty of combuftible compofitions was found upon them, which could be for no other pur-P°fe. An ainbaflador from a court,which I hhall not name, though it cannot be efteemed ^hrefpeclful or difhonourable either to his Country or to himfelf, difcovered this plot by X means means of his fervant, a Frenchman, who was his valet cle chambre. The ambaflador came, after fome time, to underttand that the court of France were in pofleffion of all his fecret t ran factions, as foon, at leaft, if not fooner, than his own court. Being a man of good fenfe, and great refolution, he could fufpecl none of his fervants, except the Frenchman. He called him into a room at a diltance from the reft of his family, and there threatened to put him to death, if he did not only eonfefs his fault, but tell him e-very action he had done. The poor wretch, afraid of inftant death, knowing that his mailer would have put his threats in imfflc diate execution, fell at his feet, and, amongft other things, told him, That Cnetardie had promifed him five hundred ducats, and already had partly paid him the money, in order to get his fecrets* In order to do which, he one day had a pro-" per opportunity, and took the impreflion °^ the key of his matter's cabinet, where all h^ principal papers lay, upon a piece of vVa#» by which means he got a key made, which Opened that repolitory ; which he then pr°" duced : He faid, that when his mailer weuc abroad, which was frequently the cafe, he had copied all his papers, unperceived by ,y ny of the family, and delivered them to the marquis or his fecretary, and alfo the keVS or cyphers to his letters : He faid, that hc was always treated with great refpecl by the marquis and his family, and that frequently they {poke before him, without any reftraint, many of their fccrets, and gave his mailer at that time fome iiiftances, which he knew to be true. Upon this information, his mailer granted him his life, and agreed to pay him one thoufand ducats, if he could get at fome fecret doings which he knew the marquis was a-oout at that time : The valet promifed, and, m a few days thereafter, difcovered the horrid plot of burning the palace, of which, he faid, amongft many other pieces of intelligence, he wras preparing to fend off advice to his correfpondents in Paris that clay. I Was told that the ambaflador allured his valet, that, if this piece of intelligence proved true, he would caufe pay him the thoufand ducats, but if falfe, he ftiould fuffcr death. The Frenchman difcovered upon this occa-hon no figns of fear, though he was locked tip in a flrong cellar, till the truth was difcovered. The ambaflador, then ill of the gout, gave proper notice to Count Beftucheff the grand chancellor, and required that all fecrecy fliould be kept, and that the guards fliould he alert, and feize all fufpecled perfons, e-hpecialiy in the night-time : By this means, thefe forty perfons above-mentioned were actually feized in one night, which put a flop to to any other attempt, as their accomplices were all difcovered, with Chetardie at the head of them. It was faid, that he alfo demanded that the grand chancellor fliould fend off a trufly courier to intercept the mef-fenger which M. Chetardie had difpatched for Paris. Mr Beftucheff, for fome reafons unknown, did not think proper to fend any to overtake the French meflenger ; but fent proper paffports to the difcoverer of this hellifli plot, who difpatched a trufly meflenger to overtake the Frenchman, who, he underftood at the pofl-houfe, had left MofcoW about twelve hours before he let out: He polled, without any reft, till he arrived at Dantzick, where he learned that the French meflenger had gone to bed for the firft time fince he left Mofcow. The other, however, immediately took horfe, and rode out of Dantzick into fome thicket on the other fide of that city, and there waited for the arrival of the Frenchman ; nor did he wait long till he made his appearance, whom he intercept-ed, feized his papers, and made the belt of his way to Berlin, where he was furnifhed with the French cyphers, and then returned to Mofcow, with full and clear evidence of that villainous treachery. Then it was that the marquis's houfe was furrounded with foldiers, who fufpecled no harm ; all his writings were feized, and all correfpondenee with others cut off. In this miferable miferable condition, not knowing what was to be his fate, he remained three days, in the great eft anxiety, which he could not help difcovering. At laft, he was made acquainted with the Emprefs's pleafure, which was, that he was to be fent from Mofcow in 24 hours, efcorted by a ferjeant and a few foldiers ; that he was to pais the borders of Ruf-fia in three days after his departure from Mofcow ; and laftly, that, as he had behaved with fuch indifcretion, to call it no worfe, he was deemed unworthy of the honour of wearing the Emprefs's picture, which was reftored. Marquis Chetardie loft no time in giving off all his affairs to Monlienr Pallion, and made his exit from Mofcow with the greateft expedition; nor did he flop till he was in Riga, which is diftant but about fifteen verfts from the borders. Here he begged leave to take a few hours reft, which the ferjeant granted ; but his fteep was not long ; for a captain of the guards arrived foon after, and roufed him from his fleep. He was fent to demand the order of St Andrew, which, in the hurry, had been forgotten. The marquis, now near the borders, ftormed, and did not care to part with the treafure, which, he faid, he efteemed part of his eftate. The captain faid that he M. Chetardie muft either deliver the order, in the fame condition he received it from the Emprefs, into his hands; hands ; or elfe he would carry him and it directly hack to Mofcow ! At the mentioning of this, the marquis hefitated not to deliver the order. The captain took only the order and ribbon, but, after defacing the workmanfliip, he reftored to Chetardie all the gold and ftones, telling him at the fame time that he had no orders to take any value from him ; but that the Emprefs would not permit any, fo unworthy as he was, to be honoured with any badge of her favour. Monfieur Marquis was glad to get away fo eafily. Few treafonable practices of the like nature I imagine have ever been carried on in any European Court with impunity : But none ever efcapcd fo well as this mofl ungrateful marquis. It is very well known that the Emprefs bellowed upon him many undeferved favours, and diflinguiflied him beyond all the foreign minifters. For all which he moft treacheroufly intended, not only to have her dethroned, but put to the molt cruel death ; and yet the marquis was not punifhecl by his matter, though he Chetardie bafely traduced her character. I was told by people who faw his papers, that he had wrote fo fcandaloufly, without the leafl ground of truth, againft the Emprefs, that one out of ten thoufand ladies, in private life, never could have forgiven him. By fo doing, his court loft any remains of friendship friend (hip which they had, and that fo uni-verfally, that it was really dangerous for a Frenchman to walk the ftreets ; and the Britifh, who before this were looked upon with an indifferent eye, were now in a dilfinguifhed manner univerfally careifed. I know not but this laft treachery of Che-tardie's laid the foundation of the treaty concluded between Great-Britain and Ruflia in the year 1745, by the late Earl of Hyndford, by which the feafonable fuccour of forty-five thoufand men were fent to the ailiftance of Great-Britain ; who, though they did not march farther than Prague, were the true caufe of peace being made in fo great a hurry. I took no notice of the accufation of the Emprefs of Germany's minifter Marquis de Botta laft year, by the Emprefs of Ruffia, becaufe I ever looked upon it as falfe, and doubt not that it was contrived and carried on by the wretch Chetardie. Little elfe happened worth relating this year, except the marriage of his Imperial Highnefs with the Princefs of Zerbft, now the reigning Emprefs, after flie had publicly embraced the Greek religion. This marriage, it was laid, was extremely brilliant, and gave the good Emprefs Elifabeth the greateft fa-tisfaciion ; for fhe loved her nephew with the greateft fincerky, nor could any thing have given her Majefty greater latisfaction than than that which contributed to his Imperial Highnefs's well-being. At Aftrachan, early in the fpring, a body of Kalmucks, unknown to the Ruffians, parted the Volga, and very unexpectedly fell upon the Caracalpaaks, making many prilbners, and drove away with them many thoufand cattle of all kinds; and, altogether unpercei-ved, returned into their own country before the Caracalpaaks could aftemble a body of men ftrong enough to make head againft them. The Kalmucks in time of war are armed with a bow and a quiver full of arrows of different ftiapes, and a large fcymitar. Every man has at leaft two horfes, left one fliould be rendered ufelefs: Thus equipped, they inarch on till they draw near to their enemies, feeding their cattle daily. They need neither bridges nor boats to crofs rivers, for I have feen thoulands crofs the Volga by fwimming their cattle over ; if any of them are in clanger of being drowned, they let them ftuft for themfelves; and if any of them die in the defart, or are rendered unable to march, they kill them, cut them in pieces, and give a piece to every one who may have need of it; and thefe fick or dead horfes ferve them for provifion. The Caracalpaaks purfued the Kalmucks to the banks of the Volga, but they had got clear over with all their prifoners and plunder der before they arrived. The Caracalpaaks applied to the governor, and he to the Prince of the Kalmucks, for fatisfaction, but none could be given. Donduck pretended he could not, after all the pains he had taken, difcover that any of his men had paffed the Volga. The Caracalpaaks, finding that they could get no redrefs, left the banks of the Volga, and returned home, where they remained quiet all this fummer ; but, fo foon as the frofl had rendered travelling on the ice fafc, they returned in the winters of 1744 and 1745, and traverfed the Volga between the Cafpian fea and Aflrachan, killing the old and young poor Kalmucks, and captivating only the youth who were healthy, upon the banks of the Votea : for Donduck had retired with his warriors and great herds to the borders of C.rcaffla, which, as was formerly f lid, they do yearly. News of this irruption and devaflation having been brought to the governor, and of the country where they then were, he ordered three hundred dragoons, with two field-pieces, two thoufand Coflacks, and about as many Tartars, to march, and endeavour to way-lay them. At this time the Caracalpaaks were on the weft branches of the Volga and were returning caft with their plunder!. The Ruflians marched ftraight fouth, and, by the direction of their 1 pies, came up with them, encamped on an ifland which reached to the Cafpian. Unfor- Y tun ate ly tunately for the Caracalpaaks they loft a day* treating with the Ruffians, in which time the weather turned warm, and rendered the ice impafhble fouthwards. The Ruffians demanded that they ftiould deliver themfelves up prifoners, and at the fame time take care that no violence was offered to the unfortunate Kalmucks, who wTere made prifoners by them. The Caracalpaaks did not relifti fuch propofals, and, having tried in vain to pafs over the ice, they, being about fifteen thoufand, made a very fudden unexpected attack upon the Ruffians, and actually, bravely broke through them, got over the ice, and fled to the deiart, leaving about three hundred Kalmuck prifoners fixed to their horfes, by tying their feet with cords to one another under the horfes bellies. The Ruffians pur-fued, without having time to look after the Kalmucks, the enemy about thirty verfts into the deiart, without making many prifoners, but a very few wounded. At their return, they were very muchfurprized and grieved to find that the Kalmucks had not only gone away, but had carried fome thoufands of horles, camels, and other cattle with them-The Ruffian horfes were quite fatigued, and conlequently could make no proper pursuit : The Coffacks and Tartar horfes were in the fame condition. The Coffacks and Tartars had loft very many horfes who were feeding on thefe iflands which the Caracalpaaks paaks paffed through, and die villainous Kalmucks made 110 manner of fcruple to feize them, notwithstanding that their proprietors had jult redeemed them from perpetual ilavery, nor could they ever be heard of again. Some hundreds of the Caracalpaaks were killed, fome wounded, and brought to Aftrachan, where they foon expired, no care having been taken of them. The Ruffians loft an enlign, run into the right eye with a fpear, and four or five dragoons ; one ferjeant loft his arm by the ftroke of a fcymitar ; a veiy few of the irregulars were killed and wounded. The field-pieces and fmall arms deftroy-ed the Caracalpaaks ; but our men were wounded either with arrows, 1 pears, or fcy-mitars, and fome by bruifcs from the horfes. It was remarkable that they made no attempt upon the dragoons, but kept at as great diftance as they could, and made their way through the Coffacks and Tartars, who, though very obilinate, were obliged to yield to the power of fuperior numbers. This action put a cheek to the inroads of thefe barbarous Caracalpaaks only for one year; for they are irreconcileable enemies to the Kalmucks, nor can all the power and policy of Ruifia keep peace between them. Frequently have the Caracalpaaks fupplicated the protection of Ruifia ; only, I fuipect, to amufe amufe them, whilft they intend fome aflault againft their enemies the Kalmucks. CHAP. XIV. Concerning what happened in Aftrachan during the Year 1744. TTXAving given an account of all the pub-XjL he affairs which happened this year, it remains only to take notice of what properly happened in Aftrachan, which I (hall do as briefly as poflible. In the month of May, our governor was taken ill of a very dangerous petechial fever, from which he had great difficulty of efcaping, yet he not only recovered, hut gained abetter ftate of health than he had experienced for fome years before ; and I got a very hand fome prefent for the care I took of him. The gentlemen of the army, who indeed had no great reafon to love him, were much clifappointcd at his recovery, and made no fecret of faying fo. He was very weak, when fome diforder in Circaffia obliged him to call a council j but, it feems, he for once was over-ruled by them. This di{appointment had very nigh caufed a relapfe: However, having recovered his temper, he reprefented all his grievances to St. Peterfburgh. What anfwer he got, I know not, nor any thing about the affair ; only, one day Mr Pundt and I were fummoned to appear immediately in the caftle. When we came came into the governor's prefence, the affef-for, commandant, and one fecretary were prefent : The governor put into our hands an order, commanding us to prepare three dofes of poifon, eacli of which fhould be fuf-ficient to kill a ftrong man. I flared, and never, I think, was fo confounded in my lifetime, and for fome time unable to fpeak one word. My colleague was very little better. The governor, obferving our great fur-prize and clifquietude, defired us therefore to go and confult together, telling us at the fame time, that this was by her Imperial Majefty 's pofitive orders, and fhowed us five or fix flieets of paper, all wrote over, figned by the Emprefs, but he did not point out a-ny place making mention of the poifon. I defired Mr Pundt to retire, and confult what was to be done ; for it fignified little to argue with the governor. Mr Pundt had not , the refolution which I was happily endued with : He, I dare fay, was a very good man, but was of fuch a timorous difpojition, that he would have fubmitted to caufe prepare fome poifon, agreeable to the governor's de-fire, if I had not powerfully oppofed it. I put him in remembrance of Peter the Great's regulation, commanding, under the pains of death, that none fhould prepare or give poifon to any, or by any great man's order. I then hinted at the bold and bad character which the governor had acquired thro' thro' all Ruflia ; and therefore concluded, that little trull was to be put in his affevera-tions, fo much unlike the merciful difpoiition and good will of the Emprefs to all men. I obferved to him, that although I well knew many poifonous minerals and vegetables, as well as animals, yet I knew nothing of the practice, and conlequently our plea would be good and honourable to plead ignorance. I obferved to him, that though we were enjoined to keep fecret thefe orders, that might proceed from the fear the governor might be under, that fuch inhuman practice might be difcovered, yet if the Emprefs had any knowledge of this affair, it would have been more agreeable to her well-known fagacity and wifdom, to have caufed prepare that diabolical poifon in - St Peterfburgh by the direction of her own phyficians, where, no doubt, all kinds of medicines were to be had in abundance, than fend, orders for that purpofe to a remote place, where neither proper medicines were 1 kept, nor a certainty of being able to get qualified men fit for preparing it. I ufed many more arguments, but concluded with faying, that it was not impoflible that it might be intended againfl the Emprefs herfelf and fome of her miniftry ; that I was determined to plead ignorance, and refolved rather to ftiffer death for not doing harm to any man, than to do an action damned by God God and man, and againft die very fundamental laws of the nation,which we had both fworn to obferve with the greateft honour. In fhort, I prevailed upon Mr Pundt to agree with me in a report, reprefenting, in few words, that we engaged to ferve the empire, by contributing what we could for the recovery of any of her Majefty's fubjecls, or others put under our care ; but denied that we could have any idea of engaging to ferve in any other capacity, and far lefs in a way of which we frankly confeffed our ignorance, and conlequently demonstrated the impolfibility. With a report of this kind we went to the governor, who, in place of receiving us kindly, fell into a dreadful rage, calling us rebels, and threatening us with deferved death for difo-bedience. Pundt was at once reduced to a ftate of infeniibility, as if thunder-ftruck, or petrified ; the red colour fled from his face. 1 was determined to fwim through this fea of bitternefs. I indifferently told the governor, that no government who retained the leaft fenfe of honour and equity, could punifti a man for being ignorant of that which he never profeffed: That this was truly my cafe; and that I neither could, nor conlequently would alter my refolution. Then the governor fpoke to us in a more friendly manner, ufing all his fubtile arguments to get us to confult again about this hellifh affair. I imagine Imagine men are glad to get a little time to reflect upon the confequences of dangerous affairs : This was at leaft my cafe. I therefore defired Mr Pundt to go and reconfider every thing ; at which the governor's countenance brightened not a little. And at the fame time I hefitated not to acquaint the governor, that it would have been more proper to have appointed the field apothecary for fuch an affair, whole profeffion made htm more fit than we could be, as he was acquainted with the daily practice of making all kinds of compounds. He upon this gave orders to Mr Magdeburgh, a very ingenious a-pothecary, and who, I imagined, never would have fubmitted to any thing of that kind ; becaufe I effeemed him a very good kind of man. At our meeting, Mr Magdeburgh was feized with an univerfal tremor, and declared his ignorance. But, what furprized me much* he faid, that he had orders, and was ready to difpenfe any kind of medicine we fliould demand. Mr Pundt and I both argued, that, by his oath, and the meaning of the fundamental regulations of Peter the Great, he was bound to let no poifonous medicine go out of his fhop, more efpecially if he knew it to be fuch. In fhort, the apothecary's unftea-dy fearful difpofition forced me to leave off arguing, and fly to my former friendly argument, ignorance ; and by this I did abide. j Dinner Dinner-time was now come the fecond day, and our final refolution was to be given into the chancery at five of the clock afternoon. I no fooner went home, than, in piace of eating my dinner, went to bed. I confefs I never was fo vexed in my life-time ; nor durft I unbofom my breafl to my wife, or a-ny other, fecrecy being the principal article in the order: However, I deflgned not to rife from my bed till this weighty affair was over. Mr Pundt fent to defire my attendance. He was anfwered, that I was lick. He then came to me, fat down on my bed-fide, and having fhut the door, weeped like a child. After much difcourfe, he contented to do any thing which I fhould agree to, and would urge nothingelfe. Upon this I left my bed, and wrote two letters, one to a trufly friend in St Peterfburgh, another to Lord Ty rawly, then Britiih ambaffador at the court of Ruflia, representing thefe affairs. A third wasfigned by us both, and directed to Count Lefloig, general director of medical affairs. Thefe letters we delivered into the hands of a trufly friend, to be fent off to St Peterfburgh, if we were arrefled. Then we made out a lhort report to the governor, declaring our ignorance, and the impoffibility of obeying his order. We went both together to deliver it; and I can fay with truth, that, whereas formerly my foul was difturbed and agitated like a raging lea, now I was quite calm, and rather joyful*: Nor did I much care for the confequence, nor fear it. As we Zi were were going to the cattle gate, I (never can forget it), and not dreaming any harm, happening to call my eye on a monument, upon the top of which were fixed upon fpikcs four heads and fome hands of malefactors ; in the exultation of my foul at my fortune, I faid, Mr Pundt, take notice of thefe heads ; Who knows but your's and mine may have the honour to be placed there, to the dif-grace of the governor ? He looked, and was feized with a tremor and ftupidity, which did not leave him foon. 1 was extremely forry for my indifcreet rafhncls, efpecially as I had great difficulty to get him perfuaded to proceed to the plecawfe, or government's chancery. But whilft we were in this dilemma, an exprefs from the governor cpiick-encd our motions. We found the governor in the great hall on the judge's feat. He gently reproved us for taking up fo much time; and he ordered the fecretary trufled with this black affair to take it from us, make haffe, and fend it off. The fecretary received our report, retired into his own private chamber ; but foon returned, and accmaint-ed the governor, that we declared we could not do it. I never happened to fee any man fly into fuch a furious paffion ; all reafon feemed at once to have forfaken him. He beat his own hand with his cane, violently left his feat, and walked towards us like a bedlamite ; but halfway he turned fhort, and reeled reeled about the hall, raving like a mad man. At laft, when he was almoft fpcnt with an-ger, he took his feat, and in catmnefs ordered the fecretary to get ready in all hafte a courier for the cabinet ; adding, that he Ihould prepare a report, acquainting the cabinet of our difobedience, and requiring to know fpeedily what punifliment ftiould be inflicted upon us. At the mentioning of difobedience and punifliment, I could contain myfelf no longer, not caring what the con-fequence might be. I faid, that we were not difobedient, but ignorant ; That we deferved better treatment for our faithful fervices ; but fince that could not be got, I added, that I had already petitioned for my difcharge,and now would proceed in taking every pollible method to obtain it: That I doubted not the high Cabinet would do us the juftice to order us to be tried by a court-martial, where I ftiould fear nothing. Having finiftied, we ftaid a little longer. At laft I afked Mr Pundt to go away. He faid, that he was a-frakl we would be flopped ; upon which I went off, bidding him follow. And thus this weighty affair ended. At my return home, I inftantly petitioned a third or fourth time the Medicine Chancery for my difcharge. The late King had, by proclamation, ordered home all his fubjecls who were employed in foreign fervice, before this time. And in confequence of this, I, as foon as I had read the the proclamation, immediately folicited my ciifcbarge, efpecially as the King had promi-fed immediate employment in his fleet or armies, to thofe who obeyed this command. I determined never to go to the governor, un-lefs lent for ; and this refolution I kept till I was appointed by another command ; for I could not obtain my difcharge then. About this time another very dilagreeable barbarous affair happened, which, with many others, I do not eh ufe to repeat, convinced me, that the Cabinet knew nothing of this poifbnous affair, efpecially when I conflder that no notice was ever taken of it to us. An Armenian merchant arrived in Aftrachan : He brought with him many jewels of great value. The governor having received advice of it, fent for him, and defired to lee his jewels, telling him, that he had an order to buy up large good jewels for the Emprefs. The merchant, fearing nothing, delivered the Jewels unto the governor, and left them with him. Next day I was prefent, when the governor fent for the merchant, and, letting him fee the jewels, faid, that two ftones were falfe, being nothing elfe than pafte. The merchant anfwered, that thefe ftones were the fame he had delivered to the governor; and that if they were pafte, he, the merchant, would be a very conllderable lofer. The governor alledged, that he brought brought them with a view to cheat the people in Ruflia ; becaufe, faid he, you who trade in that way could not be ignorant of their bad quality. The poor man protected, that he had not had an opportunity, as yet, of making any trial. Notwithstanding this, the governor eaufed carry the poor flranger to the caravanfery where the Armenians lodged, and there torture him with the curled knout, of which torture he died the day thereafter. What he did with the man's treafure, is more than I know : But this, and many other acts of barbarity which he was guilty of, is enough to caule any honeft man to be upon his guard. Lafl: year my eldefl. fon died, and this year my wife was fafely delivered of another. I did not know, having none to advife me, wh om I fhould employ to chriften this child, we having at that time no pallor or minifler of the reformed religion in Aflrachan. At lafl: I determined to employ for this purpofe a Roman, called John Baptifl, whom I had lately recovered of a dropfy. Upon fuch occafions, it is cuftomary to invite all friends and acquaintances, conlequently, among many others, the governor was invited; but the ceremony of baptifm was over before he arrived. At his arrival he asked me Who had performed the ceremony ? When I told him, he Chewed many marks of difpleafure, and was in a very dilagreeable humour all the time of dinner. dinner. When he demanded my reafons for not employing a Ruffian pricft preferable to a Roman ? I anfwered, that I knew very Httle of the Armenian religion, nor of the Roman : That the Ruffian religion was as a-greeable to me as either of thefe ; but that I had been well afliired, that from the inflant that any infant is baptized by a Ruffian prieft, he is to be educated in their way, and runs a very great risk of lofinghis liberty. At this he was vciy angry, making a joke of liberty, and asking, If « uilians did not live as happily as the people of other nations ? To this I anfwered, that I was not of that opinion, and was determined that my children fliould be educated according to my own principles, and retain that liberty, which both his mother and I had an undoubted right to, confirmed by all the Ruffian monarchs fince the reign of Peter the Great's father at leaft. He continued in a very unpleafant humour all the time he ffaid, which was not long ; for which our company and I were very thankful, They all agreed to condemn, upon this occafion, the governor's ill-timed difpleafure, efpecially as he was thought to have no religion ; for he laughed at his own as much as any o-ther : But it was only becaufe he had quarrelled with that prieft a fhort time before this happened. Governor Tatifhoff had really more learning than any man in Ruflia : He had read very verv much ; was verfant with the bell au-thors of philofophy and hiftory. He had been a long time employed in writing the hiilory of Ruffia ; and, fince his arrival in Aftrachan, had purchafed a book in the Armenian language, giving fome ancient accounts of Ruflia. At that time there was not a man to be found in Aflrachan that could tranflate this book, except Father John Bap-till. The book wfas carefully tranflated by him, for which work the governor had promifed him a fum of money \ But, in place of paying him, he quarrelled, and threatened to level their monaflery to the ground. But the Father let him know, that if he proceeded in the lead to give him, or any of his hearers, any further trouble, he would not fail to make a fuitable complaint to the Imperial ambaffador, who would reprefent his grievances to her Imperial Majefly. This fmart reply frightened Tatifhoff for once; but he 1 continued to bear him, and every one who countenanced him, a grudge. In the month of Augult, major Tatifhoff, the governor's fon, returned from Circaflia, whither he had been lent upon fome fecret expedition, in a bad ffate of health. He had fome uncommon fymptoms. Having been fent for at a time when I was taking the air for my health, and confequently not readily found, Mr Pundt was fent for ; who declared the major to be in great danger. Upon Upon this, feveral horfemen were difpatched in queft of me to different places in the country. They found me reffefhing myfelf after a ride, under the fhade of a tree. I pre-fently returned to the caflle ; and having confidered the major's complaints, acquainted his lady, that I was of opinion he was in no danger. I was ordered to vifit the governor as foon as I had given my advice to his fon ; and was not a little furprized to find the old man in tears, as he was not much fubject to that weaknefs ; concerning which I queftioned him. He faid that he had only one fon, and he could not help being grieved fit the thoughts of lofing him. I anfwered, that I hoped the caufe of his complaint was to be removed by proper medicines, and his native air ; for which reafon I advifed him to get a vifltation of all the furgeons in A-ftrachan ; becaufe it might be dangerous for me alone to attefl a man, and let him go into Ruflia, to whom many private affairs were entruffed. This was agreed to ; and as Mr Pundt and I had no difficulty to engage all the furgeons in Aftrachan to be of our opinion, the affair was foon concluded. I had by this time frequently petitioned for my difcharge, but could get no manner of anfwer. Tatifhoff knew this, and privately counteracted my endeavours. I thought this was a good opportunity to get out of the confines of Aftrachan, and endeavour to get get the protection of the Britifh ambaflador. I acquainted my wife with my fcheme, and enjoined her not to fpeak of it to any. Then I perfuaded the major, that my attendance on him, to fee how he agreed with the journey, might be very neceflary. At which propofai he was overjoyed, and immediately made a point of it with his father. The old man had no objection, only required that I fliould return as foon as I thought he was out of danger ; to which I confented. I do not remember, in the whole courfe of my life, that I ever ufed any cunning like this, either before or fince ; but neceffity has no law : I was afraid that I never would be permitted to go out of Ruffia, if I did not ufe fome policy. Well, all being agreed upon, we left Aflrachan next day ; and the major was fb well plcafed at my readinefs to oblige him, that, before I left my own houfe, he fent me a very fine young Tartar horfe, of the Arabian kind, for which I received 50 rubles. Next clay we croffed the Volga, and travelled on horfeback by land to Tza-ritzin, upon the banks of the Volga, efcorted by the major's fervants, and about fifty Coffacks. We on the third day fpied a fmall body of Kalmucks, to whom our men gave a purfuit in vain, for they rode off flraight into the defart, whither our men, upon their fatigued horfes, could not purfue them. We A a met met with nothing elfe to difturb us during this journey, but in the night time were much plagued with mufquetoes ; and one night I could get no reft in my bed for them, though I was covered with two nets. The major and his lady were as much difturbed, though well covered. I fpent the greateft part of this night fitting in the fmoke of timber. There are very great variety of black fnakes, and other ferpents, upon the banks of this river: Many flocks of antelopes, hares are here in abundance, a variety of medicinal herbs grow every where ; but liquorice grows in fuch plenty, that I am well affured the banks of the Volga alone, betwixt Aftrachan and Tchornayar can produce more than is made ufe of in all Europe. When we arrived at Tzaritzin, 1 propofed to convey the major to Tamboff in the province of Veronits, to which he readily agreed; and from thence I determined to have proceeded, at my own expence, by poft to St Peterfburgh : But next morning, the major fent for me very early, and fliewed me a letter from his father, telling him that he was taken ill, and therefore required that I fliould be fent back in all hafte ; and that the commandant CultzofF, had alfo laft night received very peremptory orders for that purpofe. He made me a handfome prefent of thirty ducats, and fome trinkets, and ordered every thing to be got ready, at his charge, for my conveniency conveniency by water. The maj or and his lady were certainly very forry we were to part fo foon. I was truly much grieved, but from a very different caufe my grief proceeded ; my hopes of getting away being unexpectedly at an end, juft when they were at the higheft, and at the very point of execution ; but the old governor was too great a politician to be over-reached by me. At this time it was again my fortune to meet with Lieutenant Colonel Kilhinfkee, in his way for Aftrachan, and we were both glad of the opportunity, and refolved to get a boat large enough for us both, and eight foldiers as our convoy. We arrived in Aflrachan the third day, without meeting with any thing, except one attempt of a few Kalmucks in a boat made upon us not far from Tchornayar ; but upon feeing our foldiers in an inflant with their mufquets prefented, they flopped their courfe, and begged bread : But we affured them, that if they offered to come nearer than where they were, the colonel Would give orders to llioot every one of them, and fo we parted without farther harm. At my arrival I went flraight to the governor, who expreffed great pleafure at feeing me in good health, and afked me, If his fon had fatisfied me for my trouble ? I an-Iwered, that he had, more generoufly than I expected. After a glafs or two of wine, he defired me to carry home to my wife a fmall prefent prefent in a bag which he had got ready on a table. I took np the bag, and found in it 100 rubles ; for which I returned him hearty thanks. This old man made me very many pre-fents; yet his univerfal character was fuch that I never could relifh. Nothing could give me contentment but my departure from this city ; for it was no fecret, that the governor very frequently fliewed the greateft friendlhip for the very perfon he defigned to deflroy. It is true, I held him at defiance, by the laws of God and man ; but he had many odd ways that would not quadrate with equity, which were the true caufe of all my uneaiinefs. I alfo longed much to vifit Great Britain, and fecure the liberty of my offspring. One evening, walking with Captain Tan* defeldt, a Swede, a jeweller, a German, defired me to look upon two rough rubies, and two diamonds, cut in rofes. I did fo, and had them weighed. The diamonds were little more than half a carat ; one of the rubies weighed five carats ; the other largely three : They were free of faults ; and the jeweller offered to cut them both with the laft of lefs than one carat, if I would give hini> when his work was done, five rubles. 1 thought it was a very good bargain, and a-greed with him for the five rubles, little dreaming that I had a fpy with me. Next morning morning I called to fee how far the jeweller had proceeded in his work. The poor man told me that they were all in the governor's poffellion : That Tandefeldt had gone ilraight to him, and told him of our commerce. I very properly looked upon this as bale in them both, and pitied the poor man, who durft not difpute' with the governor ; but at the lame time could not help defpiiing fuch wretches. In this humour I went ilraight to the governor, and hefitated not to expostulate with him about it, and point out the action in its proper colours. He fhowed no anger, but laid, that, in confideration of the friendlhip he had always had for me, he made free to act in this way ; becaufe, fakl he, Borrife, for that was the jeweller's name, is a drunkard, and not to be trufted : He would not have hefitated to have fold them to another, for a little more money, even fuppoflng he was fure to be whipped for it ; therefore, faid he, I fent for them to make fomewhat for the major's lady ; but he defired me to accept of an amethyfl in a prefent, which he would caufe place in a ring. It would have been imprudent to have difputed with him about it; fo I even accepted of his prefent, which I flill keep. But Tandefeldt did not efcape fo eafily; for, in a very few days after this happened, no officer would keep company with him; and I never fpoke to him after that day. CHAP. CHAP. XIV. Concerning what happened in Aflrachan and Ruflia in the Tear DUring the courfe of this year, though all Europe was at war but Ruifia, who remained in peace with all her neighbours, both in Europe and Alia. I fliall only ob-ferve a few tranfactions in which I was concerned ; and firft, Early in the time of the great lent, the principal commander of the fleet, retaining an opinion that I was the caufe of the port's having been brought under the command of the governor, took all opportunities of vexing me, by harafling the people under my direction, by many ufelefs and infignificaut orders. At laft, I fent a petition to the port, and reprefented thefe diforders in a ludicrous manner, and required that he would dcfift from fuch irregular practice, contrary to all regulations, and even common fenfe. At the fame time, I let the port know, that it had, by no regulation nor law, any right to command, or any-ways diftrefs any people, of whatever character, depending upon the medicine-chancery : That for the love I had to quietnefs, I had hitherto taken only verbal notice of thefe things to the comma nd- er er in chief, to which little regard had been paid : That now I had given written orders to all men under my command, to pay no regard to any order from any officer whatfo-ever, and therefore defired the port would be pleafed to tranfact their affairs in relation to me, in a regular way, agreeable to the printed regulations of the empire and the dictates of human reafon, which alone are fufficient to deter people from meddling in matters, of which they cannot have the fmal-left knowledge. This had the defired effect, in relation to the people under my eye at Aftrachan ; but there was a furgeon's mate whom I had fent to Chatine Bugori, a German, (a commiffary refided there, being a fmall fea-port, as commander in chief,)vvho9 for mal-practices, had been turned out of the fea-hofpital by my predeceffbr Mr Malloch, with a regiftrated decree never to be appointed by the hofpital again, and the reafons why this was enacted. This man was of a very turbulent temper, fo that the officers at Aftrachan were continually kept in a very dilagreeable fituation by his madnefs; wherefore, they fent him there to plague his inferiors, for it appeared they durft not bring him to a court-martial, becaufe he had it in his power to accufe every one of them. The furgeon's mate had not been long there, till he acquainted me by a petition, that the commiffary was very unkind to him, and ordered him him to tranfact affairs no-way relating to his bufinefs ; concerning which I complained to the port, ordered the mate to repair immediately to the hofpital, and fent, in his place, a Ruffian, every whit as turbulent and litigious as the commiflary, and one who knew the regulations well. He had not been long there, till Lieutenant Glafsfofd,a Britifh gentleman, was fent there to command. Mr Glafsford fent this com miliary to Aflrachan, having been made acquainted with his character. The port appointed him to the hofpital, imagining that I knew nothing of the decree which Mr Malloch had formerly got palled upon him, in the place of a very good worthy Ruffian gentleman, who, before he left the hofpital, procured me a copy of the re-giftred fentence. He behaved very well, only for a few clays ; after that, he began to make me acquainted with his drunkennefs and folly ; and, at laft, quarrelled with that mate formerly mentioned, at midnight, dif-turbing, by his ill-timed noife, the fick and others in the hofpital. Next morning, A complaint having been made to me by fome of the principal people in the hofpital, 1 reprefented it to the port, and required that he fhould inftantly be difmiffed the hofpital; declaring at the fame time my knowledge of his former irregularity, and the fentence paf-fed againft him by the port; affuring them, that if my reafonable requeft wras not complied plied with, I would inflantly reprefent the whole affair to the medicine-chancery, and at the fame time hold the port anfwerable for whatever irregularities might happen in. the hofpital : And finally, required the other commiffary to be appointed. The commander, with a few of the officers, came to the hofpital to fee to get this amicably ended ; but, forefeeing the danger that the lick and others would be fubjected to by fuch a madman, I abfolutely refufed fo much as to fpeak with the commiflary, far lefs agree. Upon which, they were even obliged to retain that fool by the port, where he was worfe than a fifcal, and to the hofpital the old commiffary. One day early in the fpring, the lick made complaint of their beef, and many would not eat it, protefling that it was no better than carrion. It was now Lent, and the commiffary faid alfo, that it was not good. I demanded, according to the fenfe of the regulations, that he would fend immediately for what remained of that meat for a general furvey, and that if the contractor would not part with it, to take it by-force. A corporal and four foldiers brought it immediately to the hofpital, and, being as bad as was reprefented, I petitioned the port to order immediately a vibration of all the officers, with the fifcal, to determine, Whether fuch meat was as bad as was reprefented ? B b My My commander imagined, (without giving himfelf time calmly to confider that I was acting up to the meaning of the regulations, and for the general good of every one concerned,) that I defpiied his authority : He went to the governor, and delivered into his hands a petition complaining of me. Upon this the governor iffued out orders for all the officers in the fleet, in company with Mr Pundt fupreme furgeon to the garrifon, to vifit the hofpital. The commiflary and I had, feeing there was no anfwer from the port that day, fecured the meat in the ice-cellar, and placed both our feals upon the door, which prevented, as far as art could, any confiderable change of the quality of the meat. Next morning, walking in the gallery, I fpied many chaifes and horfemen coming from the city, and foon was agreeably informed, that they came to infpeci the meat. I afked Mr Pundt what had brought him ? He produced an order from the governor, and faid that it Was very difagreeable to hirn, obferving, that our commander looked very fallen, and feemed to be in no good humour. I took very little notice of him, but defired the gentlemen to walk through the wards, and make the proper enquiries at the lick ; which being done, and their anfwers being agreeable to the meaning of my petition* I next caufed produce the meat, at the fight of which the commander faid, that it was not very good. I anfwered, that it was contrary to the regulations for him to fay a-ny thing about it, feeing he had made himfelf an acting party againft me, who ftudied to fupport good ceconomy in my hofpital a-gainft his interefted ways; and, in her Majefty's name, I demanded that the fifcal fliould (peak his mind without referve: And thus every officer, from the youngeft to the eldeft, gave it againft the meat; but I que-ftioned Mr Pundt more minutely, who an-fvvered to all my queftions, that fuch meat could not be good nourifhment, and might caufe many difeafes, which was not only contrary to the fenfe of Peter the Great's regulations, but likeways to many orders which both he and I were in polfeflion of, from the medicine-chancery : And laftly, if he did not think that any phyfician or lhrgeonwho would permit the lick to eat fuch meat, juftly de~ ferved to be punifhed, fince it could not proceed from a knowledge of his duty, but either from ignorance, carelefsnefs, or a villainous defire of gain at the expcnce of the fick, in defiance of her Majefty's regulations and orders of juftice to the lick, and the fear of God. After this was all written and fignecl, I begged leave to let me make an experiment on the meat, which being granted, I ordered four grey-hounds to be brought, to fee whether ther they would eat of it. They had not tailed meat that day, yet they fcarcely would fmell upon it. I caufed write this in a paper by itfelf, which I demanded the fifcal to fign in prefence of us all, and likeways caufed write it in the hofpital journal, not doubting but that this affair would end in a court-martial. However, it took a different turn, which many things of as great moment did under the aufpicious management of our prefent government! When the vifitation was at an end, I went in the afternoon to vifit the governor, and told him frankly, that it furpri-fed me much that he was pleafed to order Mr Pundt to vifit my hofpital, efpecially as we were forbidden by the medicine-chancery to interfere with one another's department; but added, that as I was confcious of having, fince my entry into the fervice, done my duty as far as I was able, the confequence by no means alarmed me, fince I was pretty certain that I would have juflice done me by the medicine-chancery, to which I was refolved to reprefent the whole affair, with all its cir-cumftances, in as clear a light as I was able, and did not doubt of their approbation of my care of the fick, to the confufion of my op-preffors. The governor very ferioufly defired that I would not be uneafy at what had happened, faying, that he was certain I had acted right, and therefore had taken that me- thocl, rather to make the truth appear more clear ; which, he faid, might not have been the cafe, if he had only ordered the officers of the navy, all fubordiuated to my ffupid commander. He faid a great deal more in order to dhTuade me from haftily making my report to the medicine-chancery. I promi-fed that I would fend off no report till he was informed of it. Before this happened, by a decree of the fenate, the merchants in all cities in Ruflia were formed into a body ; though under the power of the governors, yet they had immunities and regulations granted to themfelves, diftincl: from the governor's court. They had every where a power to elect a burgo-mafter or mayor, and fix alfeffors or coun-fellors, by whom all affairs relating to mer-chandile and their corporation were to be judged, providing they had no relation or connection with thefe of the fleet, army, or the affairs of the civil adminiftration of the empire ; confequently, upon this occafion the governor could not proceed againft the contracting merchant for the fea hofpital, till by a memorial he had reprefented the affair to the corporation of merchants, and demanded that the accufed might be delivered up to him, to be tried by the laws of the empire, for fuch a grofs crime. At this time there were two merchants in Aftrachan, very much alike, but no way related, lated to one another, nor alike in character. The one was efteemed a very good juft man, the other quite the reverfe. The lalt was daily employed by the governor in many of his fecret mercantile tranfactions; but the firft was fcarcely known to him. The governor alked me, If I knew who was contractor for the fea-hofpital ? I anfwered, that I did not know certainly, but imagined it was the firft mentioned merchant whom the governor had heard of, and, upon this occafion, wanted much to be better acquainted with him ; not doubting, as I was informed afterwards, but that he would make a very pretty purfe of him, providing the affair could be ended in Aftrachan. He therefore ordered the fecretary, who was prefent, and only pretended he did not know who was contractor for the fea-hofpital, that he fliould immediately represent this affair to the raat-houfe or town-council, and demand that the perfon of the contractor for the fea-hofpital fhould be fent under a ftrong guard to the caftle. The magiftracy were not long in obeying his orders very joyfully, for none of them had any love for this man-They not only fent him immediately thro' the principal ftreet under a ftrong guard, but took no fmall pains to let his difgrace be known in the moft glaring manner, and, in their anfwer to the governor, represented him as a very notorious offender in many re- fpects. He was carried to the main guard, and lay there all night, pitied by none. Next morning, the governor being leated in the judgment-hall, lent for the offender, not imagining that he was his deareft friend. Any one may ealily imagine how much he was furprifed, to have caufed arrefl fuch a man. Well, he was fined, and, it was believed, that the governor paid this fine ; but, I was well affured, the commander of the fleet paid for all. When this farce was ended, I could perceive that the governor was not well pleafed with me for not informing him more clearly; tho* he took little notice of it to myfelf, yet he did to thofe who were, unknown to him, my friends : However, he fent me an order to let me know, that he had upon this occafion formed a new regulation in refpect to the contracting for provifions for the ufe of the fea-hofpital; and that he had rcprefented the necellity of fo doing to the fenate for their approbation, in order to have it formed into a general law. By this regulation, no contract would be reckoned valid, except made in prefence of, and agreed to by the principal doctor or furgeon belonging to the faid hofpital. Mankind, all the world over, have a delire to command or lord it over their neighbours ; but fometimes it happens, that when they are purfuing wrong ffeps in order to increafe their importance, they lofe what power power they formerly had. Such was the cafe with my commander ; for without all manner of reafon he took a diflike at ine* whom he blamed for his loft fupremacy, tho' every one may at once fee that lie only was to blame. I continued to petition for my difcharge regularly once every month, referring my laft petition always to my former, and begging leave to pay my obedience to the king's proclamation : One day I was fealing the fifteenth petition to the Medicine Chancery, and another to the Britifh Ambaflador to get my difcharge from the fervlce, when a foldier from Mofcow delivered a letter directed to me, giving me an account that the Emprefs had appointed my worthy old commander, Prince Golitzin, ambaflador to the Court of Perfia, telling me at the fame time that the Prince was very defirous to have me with him. This put a flop to my petitioning at this time; for in a very few days after this, I received a letter from the Prince, defiring that I would agree to go with him, and that he had begged that an order might be lent to me for that purpofe ; providing ftill that I would agree voluntarily, and defired my an-fwer. This way of writing was like a gentleman, like a man of honour, and this is the way which conftantly has made me very pliable. I knew the Prince, I loved him moft affectionately, and I fcarcely could deny him any thing. I confidered alfo that the Britifh Ambaflador to whom I was altogether unknown, might probably not regard, nor give himfelf any trouble about my liberty, Or that of any unknown Britiih fobject, although one would naturally think that it was part of their duty to protect againft violence all of them reficiing in the country where he was ambaflador ; yet my furmife is not altogether without foundation, as will be practically explained before I left Riga. I confidered that if I went with the Prince, I might be of fervice, without any lofs to myfelf, to a perfon whom I very truly efteem-ed, and at laft, if we returned in fafety, I might obtain my much wifhed for difcharge, whereas, if I flayed there my hopes and profpect feemed to be very uncertain. I therefore relblved to go, and defired by my anfwer that he would caufe an order be fent to me, requiring that I fhould deliver up the fea hofpital, and every thing under my care and make my repair to join his fait in Mofcow, that I might lately convoy my wife and young fon to her relations, that they might be in fafety whatever might happen to myfelf. Upon the Prince's receipt of my letter I foon received an order from the Medicine Chancery in obedience to her Imperial Majcfty's commands, ordering me to hold myfelf in rcadinefs to proceed to Perfia with Prince Golitzin, and to fend to faid C c Chancery Chancery a catalogue of what medicines I might judge needful for him alone, intimating the difpenfatories by which compounds were to be directed. Without giving notice to any in Aftrachan, I fent a copy of my orders to the Prince, and defired that the medicines according to my catalogue might be prepared in Mofcow, where I expected foon to arrive if the Prince judged it right. I foon thereafter received another order from Dr Kondvide Vice-prefident letting me know, what I was formerly made acquainted with, and that a memorial was fent to the admiralty, by order of the fenate, commanding them to difmifs me immediately from the fea hofpital and port of Aftrachan : Of which I gave the Prince notice, that he might dif-patch to me directly what orders he thought proper. At laft, orders were received in the port of Aftrachan, from the admiralty to difmifs me immediately from the hofpital ; in order that 1 might be at full liberty to o-bey the Prince's orders : Which according to expectation I received on the twentieth of May, and having put in order all my affairs, that day I petitioned the chancery at Aftrachan for my travelling expences and paflport to Mofcow. My patients every where were much furprifed at this my fo unexpected departure, but none fo much as the governor, who never dreamed of any fuch change ; he endeavoured to perfuadc me me to give out that I was unhealthy, and he did not doubt through the intereft he had at court to get the former orders countermanded : But little did he know that it was fo very agreeable to myfelf I anfwered that fince the firft day of my entering into the fervice I never had denied, under any pretence whatfoever, to do my duty. That now I was commanded to have the care of a perfon for whom I ever had the greateft e-fteem ; and therefore I thought myfelf engaged in a double capacity, both in obedience to her Majefty, and alfo to the Prince. The governor offered to pay me as much out of his own money, as I could reafon-ably make by the embaffy : But I would yield to none of his propofals, and infifted upon my paffport's being granted in all hafte, and defired alfo that he would grant me a convoy, the paftport he could not deny, but made difficulties in giving me a convoy : Which I knew was intended to deter me from going at that time, as I was obliged to march by land through the defart, which I had little hopes of doing without danger. However, he granted me an order, feeing I would not ftay, to get a convoy from the firft camp of Coffacks, diftant from Aftrachan at leaft one hundred verfts, which diftance I was obliged to travel without any convoy. Mr George Thomfon, agent for the Britifh merchants trading to Perfia, defired fired that I would take three Britiih fa'ilors with me to Mofcow, and prefent them to the care of Mr John Tamez in Mofcow, who had directions to fend them to England. I was very glad to take them with me, tho' I had like to have been brought to trouble on the road by their folly. I got my paff-port dated the twenty-third day of May, and next day crofted the Volga about twelve o'clock accompanied by the three Britiih fail-ors, three Tartars to whom the horfes belonged, one Turk called Mahomet my fer-vant, and myfelf, making in all eight men. The Britiih were well armed with fire arms and {'words, the Tartars and Turk with bows, arrows and fcymitars. My wife a failor's wife, my maid and young fon made tip our company, to tranfport whom with pur baggage, we had fix wheeled carriages and my waggon, all drawn by twelve horfes. CHAP. XV. Being an Account of my Journey from Aftrachan to Mofcow* AFTER we had dined, we marched north upon the well banks of the Volga a-bout twenty verfts that clay, and encamped on the fide of a beautiful fmall meadow, for grafs grafs to our horfes ; being a very pleafant e-vening, we encamped for the firft night and ever afterwards in this manner : We joined the (hafts of our carts and waggon to the wheels of the next, and with them formed a kind of circle, fo that upon occafion the Kalmucks could not eafily get over with their horfes. This being a very pleafant e-ven'mg, one of the failors, having formerly ferved under Admiral Vernon at the taking of Portobello, happened to give us an account of that glorious atchievement, which was the remote caufe of all our fafeties; for as he was near making an end of his ftory, the Tartars alarmed us by acquainting us that the Kalmucks had cut the ropes from two horfes, intending to have driven them into the deiart, which was prevented by the noife my dog made, and our going out immediately and firing fome (hot into the air. This prevented our taking any fleep, the night being fo very dark that we could fee nothing upon the plain ground, unlefs very near; but we could perceive any thing at a greater diftance upon the furface of the river. After we were thus alarmed, a boat put off" into the river from the meadow where the horfes paflured, at which we fired, but fo as not to hurt the people in her, whom we interrogated concerning what had brought them there at fuch unfeafonable Jiours ? To which they anfwered, that they fought fought their friends. We put out a fmall fire which we had made to drefs our victuals with, and watched the whole night. A-bout an hour after the firft alarm, one of the Tartars came and foftly told us that a very large boat was advancing up the fide of the Volga, with the greateft filence, being only pulhed forward with flings, making ufe of no oars. Upon notice of this, I defired the failors to take care of the waggons, whilft I went out with the Tartars and my fervant to bring in the horfes, to which they chear-fully agreed. The Tartar who came for me faid that the Kalmucks were very near; wherefore I ordered them all to lie quiet between the horfes and water on each fide of me,nor ufe any violence to them, till I fliould fire off a blunderbufh which was, I being ignorant, overcharged ; but being made of brafs, I apprehended little danger. The Kalmucks were now very near, fo that I could perceive the boat very full of people, and we could difcern another at a greater diftance, upon which I ordered my fervant to make enquiry what they wanted, and why they came in fo fecrct a manner, and to affure them that we were upon our guard, and determined to ftand to the laft, rclblved neither to take nor grant quarter. They returned for anfwer that they were in fearch of their friends ; this is well known to be a very common anfwer by the Kalmucks, but but never to be credited : We ordered them to keep off, but they would not, and were beginning to point their boat towards where we lay. I fliot a piflol over their heads, Mahomet fired off a musket: They remained quiet, and now being oppofite to us, they fuddenly turned their boat, and came on directly with great fwiftnefs. Mahomet fired another piece, and I at lafl was forced to fire my blunderbufh charged with eighteen fmall bullets, larger than fwan fliot. This had the wifhed for effect : The Kalmucks could not be feen, for the fmoke ; for there was no wind to difpel it, however, as loon as I was able, for I got a very fmart blow from the blunderbufh, I charged and fired off amongft the fmoke feveral times : But they were retired, and the other boat alfo difappeared. Nor could the Britifh fail-ors, who were appointed by the carts, fee any thing after the firft fire of the blunderbufh for the fmoke, but they heard at fome diftance in the river a moaning, at which they fhot fome pieces. My blunderfliufli charges being all ftiot, I was forced to run to my waggon for fome more, where 1 found my wife in a very great fright: She begged that I would flioot her and her young fon that (lie might not fall into the hands of the Kalmucks. I affured her that they were retired, and begged that fhe would be competed, that there were two charged piftols under under the pillows, Which (lie might ufe as flie fliould think proper after we were defeated, but recommended patience and a fmall fhare of courage, affuring her at the fame time that not one of us was hurt. Thus we pafled the remains of the night in fear of thefe barbarians, but it was the pleafure of Heaven to protect us ; for we paf-fed the reft of the night tin mole fled. The caufe of my wife's great fear was the continual accounts, which we frequently were informed of, of the moft atrocious barbarities committed by thefe Kalmucks, which the Ruffians could not fupprefs ; for if they rob a Ruflian they certainly murder him, for fear of being detected, two inftances I fliall relate which happened in one month immediately before our departure. A few marines with a ferjeant, a woman and her child, were fent with the Emprefs's money? which had been collected at the port of Ear-keeto Aftrachan, diftant fixty verfts ; as they were failing by fome reeds, many Kalmucks in boats hid in fome creeks amongft the reeds ruflied out and attacked them : The foldiers fought as long as their ammunition laftecl, and killed many of them ; But at laft, overpowered by numbers, they yielded ,* as foon as the Kalmucks had difarmed them, they killed them all, except the woman and her child, whom they carried to the banks of the Volga, and after having, in a moft iiihuman manner, grofly abufed her during the night time, they carried her and her child into the middle of the Volga. They beat out the child's brains, and drowned the mother. A Uriel: inquifition having been made after the perpretators of this robbery, fome of them were feized, and kept in cuftody in Aftrachan at our departure. The other in-flance was this: A captain who had been fent as infpecfor of the garrifbn of Aftrachan, as he was returning with his reports into Ruflia, and palling in a pofl-boat up the river Volga, was fo imprudent as feize and carry a-way two of the poor Kalmuck's children i He had not got twenty miles diftant, when he was fuddenly attacked by a great number of refolute Kalmucks, and every one with him put to death, except one Coffack. The Kalmucks had, unperceived by the captain, followed him as clofe as they could, but kept at fuch a diftance as not to be difcovered, watching a proper opportunity : The wind and flream being againft them, the captain ordered four of his men to draw the boat by a rope on the banks of an ifland oppofite to a new built fort called Eanotaiva, formerly mentioned, diftant about one hundred verfts from Aftrachan. The captain's company confifted of four foldiers and as many Coffacks, who belonged to the poft-boat, but all armed, which, with the captain, rmmbered nine mcn. The Kalmucks hid D d them- themfelves in fome thicket by which the boat was to pals, which no fooner • came near, than they fired into the boat, and at the fame time feized the rope, putting the four men on fhore to death. They drew the boat to the fhore and killed all the men except one Coffack, who dropped down at their firft fire, and lay as if dead. They dragged the captain's lifelefs body on fhore, which they mangled, in their barbarous manner, and having broken the boat with a defign to fink it, cut away the rope, and let it drive. It fell down under fome bufhes, and there funk to the bottom. The bullies prevented the Kalmucks from feeing the Coffack crawl out to the banks, but he faw all their inhuman barbarity, which they had performed with figns of great fatisfa&ion i The two pilfered children were fafely, no doubt, reftored to their parents. The Coffack having obferved part of their barbarous tranfactions, unperceived, fled farther into the middle of the ifland, not doubting that they would make fearch about the banks to know whether the boat was funk or ftill fwimming, which accordingly happened. After the Kalmucks were departed in great joy, the Coffack, in much danger, crofted the Volga, and naked, fatigued, and hungry arrived in Eanataiova and made the a-bove report : Nor did I ever learn whether any of the Kalmucks were difcovered. Next TRAVEL S." an Next morning we found feveral arrows flicking in the ground, a great way from the place where we lay. The Kalmucks could not perceive us from the water; and therefore, I fuppofe, imagined we were at a much greater diftance than we were from them. Thefe arrows made up the lofs which the Tartars had fuftained of theirs. We now had about four Englifli miles to travel amongft hills of fluxible lands, but were obliged to wait the riling of the fun before we durft travel, for fear the Kalmucks had formed an ambufcade: Add to this we thought it necef-fary to caufe one of our failors ride upon a horfe, at fome diftance upon the tops of thefe little hills, to difcover if our palfage was e-very where clear; for no truft is to be put in the ignorance of thefe wild people. They are more cunning than Europeans. We at laft arrived on the north fide of thefe hills, after a very fatiguing march of near four hours. The fands were fo deep, that the poor horfes were quite fatigued as we were, through the want of fleep, and being in many places obliged, for the relief of the horfes, to travel up to the middle of our legs in fand, which, before we got through, was fcorching hot. When we had palfed thefe mountains,we difcovered fome hundred Kalmuck tents, and great herds of cattle feeding upon a meadow, at lead four or five Englifli miles long, and two or three broad. It was in this meadow, not not many years before, that a few Kalmucks run off with all the molt valuable horfes belonging to four regiments of foot, in daylight,in the view of all the foldiers; nor could they ever recover them again : This they at-chieved in the following manner. The camp being formed on the banks of the Volga, the horfes were turned out to grafs, and a few foldiers had orders to keep watch on the backs of fome of the belt horfes. After thefe orders had been put in execution for fome hours, and nothing could be feen in that meadow, which was like a bowling green, the drought being exceffive, the foldiers had orders to difmount; but to make their horfes feet fo faff with cords, that they might be eafily taken. The cunning Kalmucks obferved all their motions, and the grafs being very long, unperceived, they drew near where the faddled horfes were feeding: At once every man feized his horfe, mounted, and fet up a barbarous yelping, which alarmed the horfes, and by this means drove them into the defart, whence they never returned. The poor unfortunate officers not only loft their own horfes, but were obliged to pay ior the Emprefs's, for not keeping better guard. The fight of fo many Kalmucks tents in the meadow, difconcerted me not a little; but there was no going back. We encamped three or four hours on the fouth fide o£ a deep deep brook running out of a long frefh wa^ ter lake, eaftward into the Volga, and afterwards drove well by the fide of the lake, the welt end of which, when we had reached it, we left, and drove as near north as we could guefs into the defart. About fun-let we were happy to difcover a frefh water lake, where we encamped for the night, having plenty of good water and grafs for our horfes. As foon as day appeared, we marched on, and palled Eanataiova caftie about dinner time, and encamped about two verfts on the north fide from it. I permitted one of the failors to go into the town to buy provifions; but he got drunk, and keeped us waiting very long: When I reproved him,he threatened to ftrike at me; but I inflantly caufed feize him, and made him fall with ropes, and would have fent him and his wife to the caftle, in order to be returned in fafety to Aftrachan; but Mr Oneman their mate begged that I would carry him fecured with ropes till the liquor had fpent its ftrength. Accordingly we departed, and very late encamped for the night in a creek of the Volga. Next day towards the evening, the fun being about an hour a-bove the horizon, we fpied at a diftance, a large camp in a high land. They likeways fpied us, and difpatched a few horlemen to fee who we were. They were a regiment of Coffacks, confiding of about twelve or thirteen hundred men commanded by their own Colonel. Colonel. With thefe fcouts I fent the Governor of Aftrachan's order, commanding them to give me a convoy of four men, and a greater number where danger was fufpecT:-ed, and to change them at every new camp for frefh men. I defired them to make my compliments to the Colonel, and tell him that I defigned to take up my quarters for the night, about three or four verfts diflant from his camp; and that I had a glafs of good wine at his fervice,if he would honour me with his company at flipper. The Coffacks in general are not proud,but very frank, and great lovers of flrangers. It was not long before he arrived with four men for me, and a few to efcort him to the camp when he returned: He delivered alfo the orr der from the Governor. He was a very fens fible man, and we paffed the night very a-greeably ; for he did not return till the fun was near riling, being time for us to march. Amongft variety of difcourfe,he congratulated me on my fafe arrival there from Aflrachan; telling me that I had efcaped much danger; but adding, that he hoped we ftiould meet with no danger between his camp and Tzarit-zin; becaufe, faid he, there are but few poor Kalmucks upon the banks of the Volga in the way to Tzaritzin: That a memorial had been early fent to their Prince, letting him know, that they would not be permitted to pafs farther north than Eanataicva caftie that year; year; but, faid the Colonel, thefe villains arc not to be kept in any order ; would you be lieve it, continued he, that y efterday at noon, two dragoons were lent with fome orders to the Governor of Eanataiovar The men were fatigued having rode about thirty verlls; they therefore made their horfes fecure,to feed upon the banks of the lake you juft now pafled by, two verfts fouth from the Coffack camp, and compofed themfelves to take a fhort fleep. The dragoons had not lleeped long, until fix armed Kalmucks appeared on horfe-back, and in view of the Colfack camp, fliot both the dragoons fleeping, and carried away their horfes, cloaths, and arms. The Colonel fent a party of his men well armed, and mounted on fwift horfes. They came up with them, wounded fome, but brought them all to the camp, and fent them to Aftrachan. The dragoons horfes, cloaths, arms, and ammunition were fent to the regiment. The dragoons dead bodies, the retaking of their horfes and arms, was a fufficient evidence againft the Kalmucks; for this reafon the Colonel faid that he had fent them to Aftrachan; but, faid he, there are many examples of dragoons and Coffacks having fent thefe barbarians to A-ftrachan for trial and punifliment; but when they arrived there, the people were obliged to attend for months, and fometimes years, before they could be permitted to go home, at their own proper charges; but, faid he, I have have taken a more immediate way of proceeding againft them; for having tried them according to the cuftoms of the Coftacks, I caufe them fuffcr death by drowning them in the middle of the Volga, and Having their boats. Indeed his way of proceeding was reafonable, tho' not legal; and confequently I fufpected, when difcovered, might prove troublefome, if not dangerous for him. He acknowledged this to be true, but denied that it Was probable a difcovery could ever be made; becaufe, faid he, it was agreed to by all the Coffacks under his command, and they took care that no Kalmucks ever favv fuch executions. However, I frankly told him, that I wlfhed he might not be brought to trouble about it, and therefore defired him to get an order from the Governor to proceed in this manner, which I thought would not be difficult to obtain ; becaufe I was fure he had no regard for them; and this would effectually fcreen him from all danger* He promifed to make a trial to get fuch an order; and every thing being ready we parted in friendftiip. I arrived in Tchornayar as ex-peditioufly as the poor horfes could draw our machines, without meeting with any thing worth relating, before dinner, on the 31ft May, O. S. The commandant being an acquaintance, I dined with him; and having got a convoy of Coffacks, who were to conduct me to Tzaritzin, we fet out about fix of the the o'clock in the afternoon, and travelled about ten verfts, when we fupped, and, being advifed by our convoy, we fet out and travelled about eight verfts further, and let up not far from a large lake of frefh water on the eaft, and hills at fome diftance on the weft. Having taken a giais freely with the commandant, and being fatigued, 1 foon fell afleep. About twelve o'clock at night, one of the convoy diffurbed me, and told me that he had difcovered a large body of men under the hills, and that they had fent out a few horfemen, who had rode at fome diftance round our waggons; he therefore had taken in the horfes, and now wanted to know what I fhould adviie. With the greateft filence, I caufed all the men get up, and take to their arms: When every thing was ready, I afked the Coffacks, If they could guefs who the flrangers were ? to which they anfwered in the negative: Then I ordered one of them, who had a veryfwift horfe, to get ready, and fet out for Tchornayar to beg aififlance from the commandant, to which he readily agreed; but begged leave to call to them, and fee who they were, faying that his horfe was fo very fleet, that fuppofing a party of them fliould purfue him, he would have no dread cf. being taken. The moon was mining bright, and I confented to his reafonable demand; he fet out; and, at his return, we were .agreeably informed that they were friends, be-E e ( \xka ing three hundred Coffacks, who had been lately changed, and were returning to their own country. Next morning we decamped fooner than our neigbours. Before we had travelled three verfts, a Coffack brought my fon's mantle, which the maid bad dropped out of the waggon, and delivered it. I offered him half a ruble for his honefty, which he would not accept of, telling me that he was a Coffack, and defpifed keeping any thing belonging to his neighbours. This is an in-ftance of Coffack honour and honefty. I could not prevail with them to go with us; becaufe they were all horfemen, lightly mounted, and we were obliged to move flow-]y, being heavy loaded. They patted us all, wifhing that we might fafely arrive inTzarit-zin. We had fcarcely travelled ten verfts after this, when we were obliged to halt, by reafon of an inlet into the Volga, at leaft two. fathoms deep, from the high water of the Volga, and a hundred feet broad. It may be remembered, that I patted the lame way formerly with Major Tatifhoff, when it was quite dry. I inquired, How far it was from this place to any part of the inlet which was fordable ? I was anfwered, that it was at leaft fixty verfts; that the palfage would prove very dangerous; becaule many of the very worft of the Kalmucks fed their horfes there, that they might have good opportunities of making making inroads into Ruflia; which they frequently did, notwithftanding all the care taken by the Ruffians to prevent them. When I was muling and confulting, what every one thought bell to be done, one of the Tartars faid, that if I would take his advice, he would carry us all over in fafety in a few hours. I begged him to proceed immediately to effecl: what he had promifed. He did fo, by unpacking two Tartar waggons, and taking the wheels off them; then he made a float by laying them together with ropes, and made this float fall to a horfe's tail; then having loaded it, he plunged into the water, and fwimmed always with the horle, which, as there was neither wind nor flream, was not very difficult; and after this manner he tranfported us and our baggage in lefs that two hours. The Coflacks wonld not be tranfported upon the float; but fwimmed with their horfes. On the other lide of Tchornayar, having been informed, that I would have no chance of buying provifions in the defart,between that city and Tzaritzin, I bought two flieep for my own family, one of which we killed this day, and the other was brought in the baggage cart,which,having been carried over at the beginning, I ordered to let go and feed upon the banks of the river. When every thing was ready, Mahomet was fent to bring in the flieep. Tho' it caufed at leaft an hour's delay, yet it produced produced no fmall diverflon tons all ; the iheep had no inclination to be taken, and Mahomet had as little inclination to leave it; the chace continued upon our fide of the inlet a long time, at lait the Iheep being very hardly purfued, took the water and fwimmed Ilraight to the other fide ; this difconcerted Mahomet a little ; however he ffripped, and notwithstanding I ordered him to give over the purfuk, he plunged into the water, and purfued fo cf iely, that he had very near caught it, as it was getting out on the oppolite banks when the fame iarce was acted over again ; but the poor creature was neceflitated to take to the water a fecond time, when Mahomet with great eafe came up with it, and brought it to us. Mahomet judged very right ; for if we had not taken the flieep, we would have been neceflitated to travel two days without any good provifion, becaufe meat would not keep longer than forty-eight hours; which we experienced next day, the heat was fo great. We met with nothing remarkable between this and Tzaritzin, except that within five verfis of that city the Coffacks and Tartars defired to feed two hours, that they might the better draw their waggons over fome high hills which we had to crofs At this time our provifion was altogether eaten up, except a little (linking butter, and broken bread, as hard as flint. Every one was calling out hunger, hunger, and I amongft the reft. I took a walk alongft the banks of the Volga, and found great plenty of excellent mulhrooms, ot which we gathered abundance for us all. I found alio a great quantity of excellent fweet arrach, which we boiled, and made a pretty good repaft. During our ftay here, which was about two hours, one of my convoy's horfe was bit by fome ferpent, of which It was thought it would die. I gave upon this occahon a ruble to the Coffack, and got the commandant's promife to get a contribution at Tzaritzin for him ; which, I doubt not, he received. We met with nothing remarkable between this and Tzaritzin, except a great deal of trouble in drawing up and down the fteep hills. At Tzaritzin I paid my faithful Tartars, called for frefh horfes ; and having paid my refpeels to my old friend the commandant, took my departure that very evening by the north fide of the line towards the Don. When we were about three verfts diftant from the middle caftie, the people defired 1 would fet up my tent for the night upon the fide of a brook, where there was plenty of water and grafs for their horfes ; becauie, they faid, a Swede, a captain, commanded, who would fuffer none to pals, except cabinet couriers, in the night time, hi commifcra-tion to thefe poor people 1 did fo ; and next morning advanced to the caftie, and fent my fervant fervant with the paffport to the captain, who could get no admittance ; nor would the guards permit us to proceed. Such rigorous treatment I could not rclifh, and therefore went myfelf. Upon letting the centinels know who I was, I got ready admittance into the caftie ; and being fhown the door of the houfe where the captain lived, I entered into the firft chamber, where his fervant was in waiting. He afked my bufinefs ? I anfwered, I wanted to fee the commander immediately, and defired him to acquaint him fo. The fellow taking me for a merchant, (fuch people having no refpect paid them by the army, except they pay for it), defired me to return and wait till the captain was drefled. At this I ftormed, threatening to have his captain punifhed, if I was flopped ten minutes. Our noife alarmed the captain, Vedeman, though he did not hear what we faid. He burft open the door, and, in a very angry mood, asked, in a hurry, fome impertinent queftions; to all which I anfwered (obferving his impertinent fervant fneering) with fome calmnefs, that I had been waiting without, within the caftie, and in his aritiehamber, about an hour. Then I told him who 1 was, and (hewed him my paflports. Laftly, I obferved, that as he was a foreigner, I was forry to find lb little po-litenefs, and fo much imoertinence from his fervant. I made him recollect the common obfervation obfcrvation of the moft fenfible people in the world, that where-ever fervants are obferved to be rude to ftrangers, or any other, it is a Ihrewdf ignofthe infufficiency of their mafters, and generally leaves a low and pitiful opinion that the ftranger muft entertain of them. I obferved the captain, upon mentioning the grand Perfian embafly, and that, in my opinion, we would all in a fhort time pafs this way, melted into extreme good humour ; and to confirm that he was fo, he punifhed his fervant inftantly, {wearing, that he never let an uncivil fervant go unpunifhed. After taking a glafs or two of very good wine, he importuned me to flay longer. I told him that Mrs Cook would be uneafy at the ftay I had already made. Upon which, in the greateft hurry, he put on his belt wig, and fword by his fide, and walked out with me, and preffcd my wife much to take a fmall repall in the caftie. The hirelings rejected that, as their time was precious; which indeed was true. I was of the fame opinion. But the Captain, oblervmg that a little reft, and the curiolity of vlfiting the caftie was agreeable to Mrs Cook, ordered the horfes to be unyoked, and drove into a fine meadow of grafs under the caftie wall, commanding the foldiers upon the walls to fire atany perfon who fliould dare go to near the horfes, till farther orders. The boors, feeing feeing their horfes fare fo well, feemed very well fatisfied ; but were much more fo when they were favoured with a few7 glaffes of the captain's corn fpirits. We parted about two hours very agreeably in this caflle, and departed in great friendlhip. The captain gave orders not to flop the hirelings in their return, though in the night-time. And thus every thing ended to the general fatisfaction of us all: Nor did we meet with any thing worth taking notice of till we arrived at Michaeiova port-houfe. The city of Michaeiova is built upon a riling ground. The Don wafhes it on the fouth, and a branch of the fame river fur-rounds it on all fides, fordablc only in one place, where their polt-houfe is built in full view of the city. We arrived about twelve of the clock in the day ; two of the failors defired to buy provifions in the city ; which was readily granted, providing they would return foon, to which they readily agreed. I waited two full hours, and ordered the horfes to be yoked, defigning to make them imagine that I would have no farther concern with fuch head ftrong ungovernable people as . they were. Very lucky it was that the horfes were yoked in ; for the horfes were fcarcely put to, than we fpied our two adventurers, purfued, running to the water fide, where they feized upon a linall fmall boat, and immediately croffed over to us, and took their places in their carts. I then ordered the horfes to be drove on with good fpeed, much againft the will of the drivers, who were afraid that their townf-men would take their difobedience to their commands very ill; for they from the other fide ordered them not to proceed till they came over. As we had but twenty verfts to drive to Chopra caftie, I was of opinion, that if any good could be done for them, my old acquaintance the governor would have contributed his alfiftance to have made it up amicably ; whereas if the Coffacks had once laid hold of them, they would have punifhed them by their own laws; nor would have fhown the leaft regard for me. When we arrived in Chopra, I ordered horfes to be got ready, and loft no time in driving on to the next poft-houfe in the defart, formerly taken notice of; and there, with frefh horfes, I made no flay, but drove on to the next in courfe. This 1 did, that if any purfuit was intended, they would be informed at the poft-houfe, or by the people who returned with the horfes, that I made no flop any where ; wherefore it would be impoflible to overtake me till I would be quite out of the province of Veronits ; becaufe they could get no other horfes than thefe I had made ufe of before them. Thus, at the hazard of El a good a good deal of trouble, expence, and uneafl-nefs, I faved my troublefome countrymen, who very probably, in their own country, would not have efcaped fo eafily. I wanted to know the caufe of all this trouble I had undergone for them; and, in a merry humour, begged that they would indulge me with their account of it. They, thinking, no doubt, that I would approve of their frolic, being at leaft as young as any one of them, told me, that, after they had made their market, they went into a houfe to take a draught of fome liquor, where they faw very pretty women, whom they invited to take a fhare of it. After the women had drank a few glaftes of mead, the tars wanted to proceed to liberties ; to which the women not contenting, and being much affronted at their audacioufhels, after they had told them, that they were married women, bawled out; by which I fufpedt the failors wanted to force them. The noife foon affembled a mob at the door, which the failors, however, had made fall, previous to their delign. The failors, perceiving their danger, paid for their liquor, made their efcape out of a window into a garden, over the dyke of it, and wall of the town. They made not the leaft heiltation to fcramble, nor to feize the firft boat with oars which they came to, and fo, as has been faid, came to us. When they had made an end of their difcourfe, difcourfe, I endeavoured to convince them of the villany which they had attempted ; and affured them, that it was ray opinion, that, had the Coffacks fucceeded in captivating them, they would not by this time have been permitted to live. I faid, that as they Were my countrymen, and as I had given my promife to Mr Thomfon to convey them fafe to Mofcow, I would endeavour to do fo ; but, at the fame time, after this day, I was determined to take my repairs in my tent in the open fields, at leaft one verft diftant from any city or village, and proceed regularly on my way to Mofcow ; therefore advifed them, who fcarcely could afk for any thing in the Ruffian language, to be very cautious what they did ; for determined I was henceforth, to give myfelf no further concern about protecting fuch irregular people. I told them, that I was not ignorant that they defigned to take a view of Ivangorod, where it was then believed the unfortunate branches of the royal family were kept prifoners. I honeftly warned them of their danger, and affured them, that if they made any fuch attempt, or fo much as fpoke to any perfon about them, it would endanger their lives ; but if they preferred their lives, they would undoubtedly lofe their liberties; and that, in that cafe, it would be as dangerous for me, or any other, to fpeak in their favour. Mr O- neman 228 VOYAGS and neman was fenfible of the truth of all this, and ufed what arguments he could to convince them of their danger. We arrived within averfl oflvangorod, where I (topped to take a refremment, and kept the failors from going to the city. I (poke privately to the eamfhlcks, or people to whom the horfes belonged, to drive on at a good fmart trot, till we arrived at the city, then to drive through at a full gallop, in order to prevent thefe ignorant people from bringing themfelves into further trouble. As I took my place in the rear, and Mr Oneman in front, I faw it performed to my widi: Nor did the drivers give over till we were at leaft two verfts diftant from the city. After this I met with nothing to difturb me till I arrived at Mofcow on the i oth day of June, having travelled 1563 verfts in twenty-fix clays, by land, heavy loaded, and delivered my charge in fafety to Mr Tamas, of whom I was very glad to be freed. As I was driving flowly through the ftreets of Mofcow to the prince's houfe, I accklentally met with Major Berezin, who was as adjutant to the prince, but now was honoured with the place of marfhal of the embaffy. He, a-mongft other tilings, told me of the death of the incomparable princefs Catharine Golitzin, the prince's eldeft daughter. I do not helieve any piece of intelligence could hav£ have been more affecting to me. The major defired that I would take no notice of it to her parents, and appear as if I had known nothing of it. This was abfolutely impoilible, having been fo lately made acquainted with her fevere end. However, I behaved with all the refolution and prudence of which I was capable. We arrived before dinner, and by the time we had dil-pofed of our baggage, and paid our compliments to this illuftrious family, we were ordered to come to dinner. Dinner being ended, the princefs rofe fooner than ordinary, and defired to fpeak with me in the parlour. I no fooner entered, than after having difcharged a flood of tears, flie gave me the melancholy hiflory of her moll accom-plifhed daughter, and told me, that the Emprefs had twice verbally ordered Count Leftoig to fend for me ; becaufe, fhe faid, that her daughter Catharine was of opinion, that if I had had the care of her, fhe would be in no danger. Of this I am very uncertain ; for flie was far advanced in a deep confumption before I could have reached Mofcow. CHAP. CHAP. XVI. *fbe author arrives at Mofcow, A defer if tion of the monajiery ofjerufalem. AS I was a ftranger in this city, I employed my time, for about a week, in vifiting it, and only one monaftery, called Jerufalem's monajiery9 diftant from Mofcow a-bout fixty verfts. As I have already given a general defcription of this city, I fliall here give a fhort defcription of this monaftery, fo famous through all Ruflia. The church, bifhop's and priefts houfes, <&v. are all en-clofed with high brick walls, the wall forming one iide of the bifhop's palace, all built on a beautiful detached hill, having on the eaft, north, and weft the fmeft lawns in the world, through which glides a noble river. In the plain, upon the banks of the river, Hands the builder's romantic houfe, all built of ftone. Prince Michael Golitzin, Major Berezin, and I arrived at the monaftery, juft as the priefts had begun the forenoon fervice ; wherefore we determined to vifit the builder's houfe, hofpital, and appendages belonging to this celebrated church. We were let out at a fmall back entry, dc-fcended a pleafant equal bank, and then proceeded about half a verft to this romantic pile: pile : It ftood quite alone, three ftories in height, in every one of which were four rooms, except the ground-flory, where were his kitchen, (lore-room, and a room, I imagine, for his attendants. The area of each of thele rooms was but about eight, or at mofl nine feet fquare ; in every one was a fmall (love ; his bed-ltead was of (lone, as were the bed and pillow ; his chairs were of the fame materials: Every flory of this houfe was vaulted, and it was flat on the roof, for the conveniency of taking a view of the country. It had but one entry, and every room received light from one window of the lead fize The builder was a hermit, and a profeffed religious. The hofpital was not very large, but well enough provided with every neceflary but medicine : Prayers were fufficient to cure all the difeafes which appeared in this holy place. If no cure happened to be performed, an anfwer was not wanting, viz. that God had determined a certain time for him to be cleanfed from the dileafes of his foul, as well as his body. When death enfued, nothing could prove more advantageous, for he went immediately to heaven from God's own temple of Jerufalem, without the lead dread of purgatory, and his body was depofited in the holiefl of ground till the re-furreclion. On On the weft end of the church was one of the moft capacious copulas I have ever feen* only the middle of the arch had fallen down fome years ago. This copula was defigncd to prevent rain, or even the dew, to fall upon the holy fepulchre, which flood near the centre, with a Hone crofs on the top of it, which the monk affured us was not touched, nor any part of the facred fepulchre defaced with the fall of the copula. To which I anfwered, without thinking where I was, that it was a good chance. Upon which the monk endeavoured to undeceive me, by pro-tefling, that this wonderful miracle was done by God himfelf. Having no inclination to dilpute with this piece of ignorance, I ac-quiefced ; and, out of refpecl to the place, crawled into the fepulchre. The ftone at the door was very large ; and I am certain fuch a ftone could not have been removed by ten men, unlefs it had been broken in pieces, or they had had proper machines fixed for that purpofe. As we were vifiting this wonderful copula, and its contents, word was brought, that the bifliop was on his way to his palace. Upon which the young prince defired us to go out and view the proceflion. Two deacons preceeded ; the bifliop walked alone, followed by many different orders of priefts and monks. The prince and major advanced to beg the bifhop's benediction, which they were not refufed : Our fervants alfo alfo fliared the fame honour. He having been informed what countryman I was, who was deierted by all our company at this time, made a fiffn to me to come to him- I ad-vanced immediately to know his pleafure : He took me by the hand, and gave me a hearty welcome, telling me, at the fame time, that this lingular mark of diftincTion proceeded from the great love he naturally had for Britifh people. He laid, that he had belonged, about ten years, to the Ruffian fleet, where Admirals Gordon, Saunders, and Paton, with a number he named, had fhown him particular marks of their favour: For which reafons, and many others, which, he enumerated, his bread glowed with gratitude, as it were, to a Briton. I told him, that I was very happy, in being at once made acquainted with a perfon of his cloth, dignity, but, above all, his good fenle ; which, I obferved to him, could not fail to make him gain the elleem of every perfon, let their condition be ever fo high, providing they had fenfe to fee his merit. The bilhop difmillcd the whole band of his attendants, except the perfon who kept the keys of the church, whom he ordered to open the doors, and wait on the out-fide. The dome was very magnificent and very high, with a gallery which furroundecl it near the top ; the windows were capacious ; G g it it was very well lighted ; the walls were all hung round with various pictures of the Saints, very richly adorned with iilver, gold, pearl, and precious (tones ; the altar was ve^ ry grand, and adorned with various pieces of curious workmanfhip. 1 cannot fay whether tins dome was as large as that of St Paul's in London or not, but it was a noble (truc-ture. fhe bifliop laid, that this church was not built like the antient temple at Jerufa-lem, but it was equal at leaft to it, and exceeded much in richnefs the prefent principal church, of which this was defigned to be a copy, and therefore was called Jerufalem monaftery. He perfuaded the young prince and major to go up to the gallery and look down; they obeyed, and when they had entered upon the (lair, he (hut the door and locked it, telling me, that it would be pof-fjble for them to get to the gallery foon, nor* could any look into the church : Now, (aid he, I clefign to let you have a view of the fanclam fantlaritm ; fear nothing, come away. He then opened the door from the altar, and I looked in, but would not enter ; he laughed at my circumfpedtion ; hup I anfwered, that I had a full view of every thing, returned him thanks, declared my fatisfacfion, and withdrew into the middle of the church, where we had not waited long, till the young gentlemen made their appearance like two puppets puppets from the gallery; and they faid, we looked like two piginie dwarfs, not exceeding the bignefs of crows. The fanttum fanc-torum was a room, whole floor was nearly a hemifphere ; on the fide next the partition, which feparated it from the altar, was a very long broad table, covered with a carpet of cut velvet, fringed with gold, upon which a few books lay, and in one corner was a large cheft; what was kept in it 1 did not enquire; and upon the walls were hanging many church garments. The young gentlemen being returned, the bifliop retired to his palace, after taking our promifc to dine with him, and ordered one of the monks to fhew us any thing remaining worthy of notice : He took us through a variety of fmall buildings on the fouth lide of the church, in every one of which was part of our Saviour's remarkable tranfadtions when he fojourned on the earth, represented by figures as big as the life, efpecially thefe on the three erodes, and which appeared to me to be very well executed. When we had vifited every tiling, we were conveyed to the palace, where the good bifliop made us very happy with his chearful company. We fpent about two hours with this charming man ; and, after having eaten of the belt and moil delicious fifh-diihcs, and drunk as much excellent wine as we chufed, we departed, extremely well pleafed with our good enter^ entertainment, to a village belonging to the prince, where we ordered a good country fupper, and flept upon hay. Next morning, we returned to Mofcow, where all were delighted with the account of the bifhop's hofpitality,and his acting lb much like a gentleman. It was at this time I had ever feeii any experiments of electricity : Thefe were exhibited by Dr Lerch phyfician appointed by the embaffy. The wonderful effects it produced upon many, caufed a very great refortof the moft illuflrions people in Mofcow ; but this was not altogether agreeable to the prince, becaufe, he told the doctor, he made an appearance in Mofcow, rather like a flroller than an honourable phyfician. The doctor urged that he took no money for his trouble, but the prince let him know, that nriiefs he gave it over, or practifed it privately, he would never have the leaf! value for him ; with which at lafl he was forced to comply. During my fhort flay, I was lent for by one of her Majefly's blind counfellors. At my arrival, he faid, that he had been informed I had recovered feveral people blind of cataracts, which was his difeale. 1 anfwered, that 1 had fucceeded trequently, but that I could not promife at any time to be fuc-cefsful ; becaufe, whatever has been taught concerning that difeale, I had known fome experienced men miftakeri ; that they have imagined imagined the cataract very good, by all the falutary appearances uiiially taken notice of; but that 1 had been an eye-witnefs how far they were miftaken, when they touched it with the needle, although no blame could be fixed upon them in uling the inlfrument ; wherefore, I was determined never to pro-mife more than I was certain I could perform. He faid, there was fome thing lingular in his difrafe ; for, laid he, one day I fee fome, and the next day I am quite blind. This, I confels, furprifed me. I hefitated not to tell him fo, and that I never had feen any who had made the fame remark, nor had I ever read of any fuch in any book. I alked him, Whether this was his blind day ? He anfwered in the affirmative, and begged I would come next day, when he would readily (how me that he could fee, tho' faintly, all his fingers. Next day, being dreffed in the fea uniform, which was green, when I arrived, he expreffed joy ; for, fays he, I can plainly dillinguifh all my fingers : Then he eagerly counted over his fingers, alluring me, that he could diftinguifh them very eafily, efpecially as the air was very ferene. After a fmall time, his only daughter being prefent, I begged of him to place his hand on his knee, and at that diftance try if he could fee them : He did fo, and with great joy counted over and touched every one of them : put little did he know that the fkirt of my coat coat was between his eyes and hands. I ended this affair, by alluring him, that as yet the cataracts were not come to i ipeneis ; but added, that if they were ripe when 1 fhould return from Perfia, L would very readily couch them. He returned me thanks, and laid, Don't think that I fliall employ you unpaid $ her Imperial Majefty will thank you hi what good you do me ; but 1 am rich ; I need none to help me, and 1 will not fail to reward you nobly. In faying fo, he put fix ducats into my hand ; nor would he be refufed. At the door I told his daughter that I had not the fmallefl hopes of his recovering his fight, becaufe he was afflicted with two difeafes ; the one was truly the cataract, the other the gittta fcrena, which is a difeale of itfelf incurable. 1 told her this, in confidence never to divulge it to any but gentlemen of the pro-feflion, who would not do a dirty tiling, in order to fill their pockets. At my return from Perfia I foon had a meffage from him : He told me, that he began to fret much at the tedious proceeding of the embafly, and was afraid that I might die in that expedition, which had proved fo very fatal to many ; therefore, laid he, I made a tour to St Peterfburgh, and, hoping they might be ripe, by her Majcfty's high order, had a confulta-tion of all the phyiicians, and many of the befl furgeons in St Peierfburgh ; but to my great misfortune, they pronounced the fame fentence fentence yon had done formerly. His daughter told mc\ that die had acquainted them witii my opinion before they law him, and after they had given him their opinion, he told diem, that 1 had faid the fame thing. At this meeting, I pronounced the very fame opinion I had d >ne formerly, and that therefore it would be to no purpofe to put him to the expence of unneceffary vifits. He was truly a man of a noble fpirlt, and good un-derihmding t He frankly begged that I would twice a week at lead vifit him, and it would be a pleafure to him to give me for each vifit two ducats, rather than two copcaks to a villain who would impofe upon him. I have been informed, fince 1 left Rudia, that the droller, Chevalier Taylor, was dif-graced in Kulfia, for fome fruitlefs attempt he made upon fome counfellor; very likely this Was the man, but I am uncertain. One day after dinner, the prince defired I would pay a vifit to an old maiden lady, who complained of a very extraordinary dileaie. She was about the age of fifty-five, and for eight or nine years before this her upper lip fwciled immenfely every month ; at the end of the month, it broke open and emitted a large quantity of bloody matter. When the fwclling was at the greateft, it not only covered her mouth, but her chin alfo, fo that, for near fourteen days every month fhe could fee no company, nor go to church, of which die ftie was extremely fond. He faid, that it was now fmall, and therefore defired me to pay her a vifit, to fee if I had any hopes of her recovery. I did fo, and obfer-ving a very fmall aperture on the infide, a-bove the dentes incifivi, exactly in ihe middle, I begged (lie would permit me to introduce a very fmall probe, which I eafily bent to anfwer my intention. I run this probe from the orifice quite down to the low-eft point of the lip; and, feeling with my finger, I difcovered only a very thin membrane, viz. the inner fkin of the lip, without anyim-eafinefs interveening between my finger and the probe. I advifed her therefore to have patience till it fwelled to its utmoft fize, and let me know whenever it burft open, not doubting but that this would happen before we left Mofcow. To all this flie agreed, but faid, that, confidering fhe had taken the advice of all the principal phyficians and furgeons in the city, during the whole time of her illnefs, without any effect, flie defpaired of ever recovering. I anfwered, that I was very far from making her certain of a cure ; but I was very certain, that what I propofed to do was agreeable to the rules of practice and reafon ; and further, that if it did not fucceed to her wifh, it could never make it worfe,nor any way hurt her. All things being agreed upon, I waited till I one morning was fent for, and found her lip incredibly big: t big : The flowing of the bloody thin matter pointed out the orifice from whence it proceeded, into which I introduced a gentian tent, and in the afternoon another. Next morning, when I had withdrawn the tent, I, unperceived, introduced the point of a fmall crooked (harp knife, which had a button on the very point, and at once cut quite through the lower point of the lip; The whole contents fell out at once, and (he was agreeably enough furprifed to have fo fud-denly been made free from fo great weight. I dreffed it up with dry fcraped lint, and continued to look after her for a few days, taking care that the wound did not grow together. At our return from Perfia, this good lady was in perfect health, nor had ever been troubled with that dilagreeable fwelling, neither did any ill confequence follow ; and, what is the more furpriling, none knew, except the prince, that I had made any opera-ration ; for flie thought, and faid fo to her acquaintances, that, at a third application of the tent, every thing was at once made open, not dreaming that (lie had been cut 5 an o-peration, though a.very great trifle, flic never would have fubmitted to, if (lie had been made previoully acquainted with it. Hb CHAP* CHAP. XVII. Treats of the .Ambaffador''s Suite, the Prefents for the Shach, and their Departure from Mofcow. ABOUT the latter end of July all the fuite being afTembled, and all the prefents defigned for the court of Perfia being now ready, and packecj up, we received orders from court to march with all diligence for Aflrachan. The fuite confided of the ambaffador, and fix officers of the army as companions to the ambaffador, captains and lieutenants ; the fecretary and confiliarift, a number of writers and interpreters ; the phyfician, fur-geon, furgeon's mate, and affidants ; fix pages, all young gentlemen ; two troops of dragoons, each troop confining of one hundred and twenty men, commanded by fix officers, with one engineer ; fixty foldiers with their arms ; eighteen muficians, confiding of various violins, baffoons, hautboys, and French horns ; befides, one pair of kettledrums and a trumpet to each troop, all of diver, with large filver taffels and fringes which reached, when on horfe-back, near to the ground ; twenty falconers dreffed in green, mounted with gold-lace, as were our muficians, cians, only their cloaths were differently made. Before we left Mofcow, the prince gave orders that his whole command fliould drefs themfelves in their richeft cloaths, and make their appearance in his court, affuring them, that if they had not got every thing about them in that order which her Majefly required, they would be difmiffed, and others more worthy of fuch honour chofen in their places. When we had gone through the mufler, fault was only found with Dr Lerch, (a lover of money ;) he was dreffed in fu-perfine brown cloth, with a broad gold-lace, whereas, the prince faid, he fliould at leaft have had two rows of gold-lace, buttons, &c, in proportion ; he therefore had orders to get fuch things as were prefcribed, or elfe the prince protefted he would return him. The doctor received one thoufand crowns to mount him, and he had not laid out the half of it. Our horfe-furniture was fuperbly manufactured, in proportion to the owner. My cloaths and furniture were inferior to none of the gentlemen belonging to the cmbaffy ; but this was owing purely to the prince's ge-nerolity to me, who upon this occalion paid not one farthing, but put feven hundred and fifty crowns, defigned for fuch expences, into my pocket. The prefents confined of filks, European manufactured velvets, clocks, watches, fnuff-boxes, (though the Perfians never never ufe fnuff,) and a variety of trinkets in gold, filver, and brafs double gilt, of curious workmanlhip, and many of them befet with precious ftones ; twelve armed chairs of fleel, inlaid with gold, of very curious workman -fhip, all made in Ruflia ; twenty horfes bred in Ruflia, from Perfian, Arabian, Italian, Spa-nifh, Britifh, and German offspring. Among thefe horfes, one of the Britifh progeny would allow none to mount him, except the man who fed him, and Major Berezin who frequently placed the reins on his neck, and fmoked his pipe as we rode along. One day Captain Poffiet, of whom mention was formerly made, a brifk officer and excellent horfe-man, laid a wager with the major, that he would ride him ; he accordingly mounted, and no doubt ufed all his fkill; the horfe did all he could to throw him; but finding all his attempts fruitlefs, he reared, fell back, and had very nigh killed the captain ; and what furprifed me greatly, he did not attempt to run off*, being a floned horfe, as indeed they all were, but flood peaceably till the major feized him, and caufed put him up. Every thing being now in readinefs, I begged leave of the prince to convoy my wife to St Peterfburgh ; but, alike in every thing, he ftroaked my head, and afked if I would not let her flay with the princefs till my return, telling me, that he had appointed ed two very convenient rooms for her, and as many maids to attend her ; that, when in health, the would eat with the princefs daily; if ailing, proper care fliould be taken of her, the fame as his own family. Thus, every thing being feettled to my fatis faction, I was made quite eafy. The horfes, dragoons, and bulk of the baggage, with the doctor and his mate, were fent off" on different days, that fuch a number of men and horfes might not be oppreilive to the inhabitants of the countries through which we were to pais, about the end of July. At laft, however, in the beginning of Auguft, the prince fet out immediately after, in company with the princefs and his young fon Michael, who convoyed us a few hundred verfts, with the gentlemen of the embafty, muficians, and a tew foldiers to mount a refpectable guard, where-ever the prince happened to fet up. I obferved my wife very melancholy the whole time of dinner, and (lie, when queftioned, faid the mufic was the caufe. I endeavoured to comfort her, but to little purpofe. After dinner, I went into her apartment, and counfelled her to behave like a prudent woman ; and, having given her promife not to follow me out, I went directly and feated myfelf in my waggon, the reft being all gone away. I had fcarcely taken my ieat, when my wife was by me, holding fait by my garment. I intreated her to go into the houfe, and and ordered to drive on. She endeavoured to keep her hold, which obliged me to give her a gentle pulh, left the hindermoft wheels had run over her; and thus Ave parted. I foon came up with the rear, and we drove only twenty verfts from Mofcow that night. After tea, the prince difpatched a meflenger to Mofcow, for fomething he had forgot, I begged to go alfo, telling him what way I was obliged to part with my wife, and how much it grieved me ; but that wife man made me fenfible, that, in place of alleviating, it would rather increafe her grief, diftuaded me from it, and advifed me to write a ftiort billet, which I did. At the courier's return, I was fatisfied with a note from her that all was well, and that (he was pleafed I did not return to Mofcow* We travelled by eaiy ftages, and, on the third day, took up our quarters in the beautiful city Columna, one hundred and eighty verfts diftant from Mofcow, early in the afternoon, all in high fpi-rits. A young colonel (Zagretzke, fon of a lieutenant-general) contributed not a little thereto. This colonel placed at the prince's lodging, before he entered into the city, a captain's command, confiding of a hundred and twenty men. The Emprefs had indulged this young foldier with a liberty to form his regiment out cf the armies of RufTia ; and indeed he had not difappointed her, for he had picked up men about one age, and ot the the largeft fize : The officers were alfo of his own choice,*but he did not regard their fize, providing they were good difciplinarians. One officer, not forty years of age, by fome years older than any man in the regiment, they therefore called him Father. Never a piece of clock-work could have exhibited a more regular performance than this beautiful regiment; and indeed the officers fcarce-ly were heard to fpeak. We paffed the Occa next morning, and continued marching eafdy through the province of Rezan, where we came up with our dragoons and led horfes, and lodged In a large village; the bell houfe being the prieft's, the prince flept' there. This prieff had a great number of geeie, which our men made fo free with in the night-time, that they left none. The prince, being informed of this, lent for all the officers, acquainted them of it, and Ordered us all to make Uriel fearch, Whether it was poffible to clifcover the perpetrators of this piece of villany, protefling that he would caufe punifli, as thieves, any who lhould take the fmallefl value from his neighbour. The officers reported, after a Ihort time, that, after the ftri&eft fearch, no difcovery could be made, not fo much as of the feathers. The prince fatisfied the poor prieft for his lofs ; nor had we many complaints of this kind afterwards. The evening following, we lodged in the city of Rezan, zan, the capital of the province ; and next morning the princefs convoyed her lord two verfts out of the city, there parted with him, and returned in her coach for Mofcow. Upon this occafion, the prince ordered Major Berezin and me to take our feats in his coach for his recreation : The major foon fell a-fleep ; the prince continued dull, and in a muling mood, till we had travelled three or four verfts, Avhen I broke filencc, by making fome general obfervations upon the paflions to which men are fubjecl; at parting with their dear friends, or, after long abfence, meeting with them again ; and in a little time after, the prince's countenance bright-tcned, he roufed the major from his ill-tim'd reft, and ordered him to fill up a glafs of wine, of which indeed I was very needful. I propofed to get a fourth hand, and pals the time with a pack of cards, which was agreed to, and frequently prac tiled afterwards. Nothing happened in our way to Tamboff worth notice, except at this place our fecretary, in a fneering manner, told me, that my fervant Mahomet was an extraordinary archer ; for, laid he, he killed upon wing two geefe with two arrows. I fent for Mahomet, queftion-ed him about it •, he did not deny the fact, but faid, that his comer ad es wagered that he could not; therefore, to convince them* he fliot two geefe. I threatened to caufe whip him, if ever I found him guilty of fliooting the the people's geefe again, and thus let him go. The boy was fo infolent as, even in my hearing, to fay, that I durlt not caufe punifli him, but that if I fhould offer any fuch violence to him, he would inftantly cut his throat. I ordered him to be brought back, laid down before the ftandard, and caufed whip him till he came in all obedience, and promifed never to act in the like manner, nor ufe fuch exprelfions. This boy afterwards proved one of the belt fervants I ever had, went, and returned with me from Perfia, without having been guilty of one fault. It was very dilagreeable to me to caufe punifli the young man. I knew that threatening would have proved fatisfacfory to any rea-fonable man, and would have fatisfied the prince; but his having threatened to deftroy himfelf, was truly the caufe of my rigour, which was defigned more for his good, than for any (atisfaetion I pretended to. Experience will teach men, that the fooner a criminal is punifhed for his fault, the better effect it has to reclaim and bring him to reafon; which holds true with a great number of men who join together with a view to difturb the public peace. If a few were punifhed at the very beginning with all the feverity the regulations permit, it would be a mean to faVe the lives of thoufands. The punilhing of that boy had another good effect: in relation to the whole com* I i mand 2 maud ; for they looked on me, and not without reafon, as a favourite : When they faw, for a fmall fault, that I readily caufed punifli my fervant, they had not the leaft doubt, that if I had not done fo, the prince would have been diffatisfied with me ; and therefore concluded, that liberties of that kind would meet with no pardon from the prince. At Tamboff, we dined with Captain Swi-nine, a Ruffian, and an old Taverhoff acquaintance ; he was captain of a man of war, but at prefent voivode or governor of this city and its appendages. After dinner, we marched on, having now come up with the baggage ; nor did any thing happen worth ^icquainting the reader through the great de-fart of ojie hundred and eighty verfts, till we arrived at Chopra caftie. We arrived late, and by fome uncommon accident I happened to come up with the rear. I conftantly drove to the houfe where the prince lodged ; and, as I flept in my waggon, I had it placed near the outer cen-tinels, to prevent thieves from plundering me. When I went into a large room, where all our gentlemen were already afTembled, I faw my old acquaintance the governor, and, not knowing what had happened, went up and kindly fainted him. The prince feemed not well pleafed at my freedom, and afked me ? how I came to be acquainted with him, telling that he defigned to appoint another governor travels; 251 governor to this caftie, and fend him to St Peterfburgh to anfwer for his want of due refpect to her Majefly's orders. At the latter end of laft year or the beginning of this, a general order, by her Majefly's direction, was fent to all the governors in the Ruffian empire, commanding, that no cannon fliould be fired off in honour to any general in the army, as was formerly the cuftom, unlefs the general paid for the powder expended upon fuch occafions. The Emprefs, defigning that this grand em-bafly fliould be honourably refpected even in the barbarous parts of Perfia, fent orders to the governors of all the provinces thro' which we were deftined to march, fignifying her Majefly's pleafure, that all and every one of her fubjecls fliould know that Prince Golitzin, now on his way to Perfia, where-ever he fhould go, reprefented her Majefly's facrecl perfon, and requiring, that they fliould pay the fame obedience to his orders, as if fhe herfelf had given them : And farther, that the Imperial ftandard fhould be let up wherc-evcr his main-guard fhould happen to be ; and laftly, that all honours fhould be paid him, in the lame manner as are done to her Majefty. The poor governor had not caufed fire off his cannon, ftupiuly enough waiting for orders from the prince/and money to pay for the powder* powder. When the prince however was fatisfied that his want of refpect proceeded purely from ignorance of his duty, like the reft of his actions, he frankly forgave him, and I conveyed him into the caftie to pay my refpects to the captain's old wife. Next morning, the governor did not forget to give the prince a double royal falute, at which he laughed heartily, but when he had confidered the reafon, he obferved that the governor would eafily account for his having performed his duty regularly by the expence of the powder upon this occafion, and we proceeded on our journey to Tzaritzin without meeting with any thing worth notice. We were obliged to remain at Tzaritzin a few clays, until the baggage was (hipped off by water for Aftrachan, in which fhort time very little happened worth notice. My old acquaintance Captain Vedeman came to me in the evening, to whom I returned thanks for the civilities he had conferred on me in the caftie. He told me that his fon-in-law was fent upon fome expedition near the Cafpian fea; that his daughter was big with child, and very near her time. She was very melancholy upon this occafion, and the more fo, as her hufband had but lately returned from fome dangerous expedition a-gainft robbers; whereas it was great oppref-(ion to fend him twice, and other captains in in the regiment doing nothing, whofe pro-r per turn it was now to have gone : He therefore defired that I would fpeak to the Prince, that he might put a flop to a practice fo partial and irregular. I laid that I owed him that fervice ; but advifed him to tell me nothing but what he could make good ; becaufe if his relation fliould be contradicted by his enemies, the Prince would caufe inquiry to be made, and that if it did not turn out quite true, it would at leafl throw a great cloud between the Prince and him. I told him that I was certain the Prince would reprove their general for not looking better after his officers : I begged of him to wait a fhort time till I returned, and acquainted the Prince ; he ordered Vede-man into his prefence, who told him the fame ftory he had told me. The Prince fent one of his gentlemen, who was prefent, to General Zabrenfke, to require that the captain fliould be recalled immediately, and another to be appointed in his place. Next day he arrived with gladncfs to his wife in the city, and the old general fent for me to confult me about a violent pain in one of his knees. When I went to him, the prince was with him; he faid that he had been long plagued with this pain ; that he had applied feveral medicines to it, which hitherto had no good effect: But, faid he, yefferday I Was advifed to rub it with my falling fpittle, and and I think it is a little ealier. I anfwered, that as the medicine was quite fafe, and he found fome relief, I was of opinion, lie fhould continue it ; but if it proved, at laft, ineffectual, before the prince left Tzaritzin, I would very readily give my advice in* writing, for which he returned me thanks. He was very old, and had been in all Peter the Great's wars, was many times wounded; one he had from the left corner of his mouth to his ear very confpicuous, and I judged it better to let the old gentleman pleafe his fancy, than throw away medicines ineffectually ; for his conftitution feemed to be much worn out; and he not far from dif-folution ; which I was told happened foon after this, Tzaritzin produceth the greateft flocks of partridges I ever law any where, and they have a particular way of catching them, at this time of the year, when they continue in great flocks, which is very fimple. They extend a net between two long fmall poles, about twenty feet diftant the one from the other : They fix two long fmall cords to the top of each pole, which makes four cords ; one man lies down on the land between the town and river, where thefe fowls fly after fun-fet, and another man placeth himfelf in the fame manner on the other fide of the poles; then the one who has the finallefl portion of two ropes or cords I fpoke of, pulls to him, which raifeth the poles till they are erect, where they keep them, till a flock of partridges happen to fly into the net: The man, on whole fide of the net the partridges are, pulls to him, till he brings the net with its contents to the ground. I have feen twenty partridges thus taken at one pull, fometimes many, fometimes few, and it alfo happens that the fowlers in an evening will get none; but that is rare. Here 1 firft difcovered that Major Berezin envied my happinef- in the prince's favour. He wanted me to commit a very great crime, fcarcely excufable either by the laws of the empire or common reafon. Upon the way to Aftrachan I conftantly flept in my waggon for coolnefs, and the benefit of a frefh healthy air. I was a very great lover of fhooting, and ufed to divert myfelf one or two hours daily with that exercife. The partridges were not Ihy here ; for they would fly amongft the horfes in the yards to pick the oats they fcattcred. One morning about fun-riling, the major roufed me from a fweet fteep, in order, as he faid, to get a good fliot; before, however, I had drefled myfelf, I had come to the ufe of my reafon, but was not a little furprif?d to fee him point to a great flock of partridges fitting on the top of the very houfe the prince fleeped in, built all with timber, and covered with the fame materials: The drought had been for for a long time very great, and a little bit of lighted Hubble might have burnt down the city. Add to this, that, by an imperial order, it is forbidden to (hoot in or near a fortified caflle or city where powder magazines are kept. At prefent, I took no notice to the major that I would refent fuch a piece of bafenefs ; I only faid, that it was a very childifh advice, which none but children or madmen would follow, and went out of the city to feek fport in the fields. At brcakfaft, I told it to the prince befor^ the major and a few of our gentlemen : I did not forget to obferve how eafily a man might have been brought into fuch a fcrapc before he was in a condition to make ufe of his reafon, and took notice of the danger the city might have been expofed to by fuch an imprudent action. The major attempted to alleviate his vile intention, but it would not do ; he then call fome reflections upon my prefumption to endeavour to load him with the prince's anger: To this I made anfwer, that I had too good reafons for making the prince fenfible either of his the major's flu-pidity, or that he was capable to advife a man, he intended to do all the ill he could to, to commit an action either villainous, or foolifh, by which many thoufand innocent people might have fuffered greatly, and even the empire itfelf. The prince made fome fenfible obfervations upon this affair, and and, In a paternal manner, counfelled the major to be more circumfpecl: in time coming ; and did not forget to demonftrate the danger he would have been in for giving fo foolilh an advice"; but he intended to keep us in friendlhip. The major ufed more freedom in his difcourfe before the prince than I thought was decent, of which I fometimes put him in remembrance. At laft he di-ftantly threatened me, which language I was a ft ranger to: He alfo made fome reflections concerning the difference of our rank, and the little refpect I had all along fhown to him. To all which I anfwered, that a well-behaved officer would ever be loved and refpecled by men of underftanding : That fuperficial foolifh fops never could be fatisfied : That the cafe was acknowledged to be in a veiy low ftate, when it could be fupported no other way, and by no other argument than a fuperior rank in the army* Ijeeringly faid, that it was very well known the Emprefs had three hundred and fifty thoufand regular troops, each of whofe rank was confiderably interior to mine, yet, by pronouncing one order, (lie could inftantly make any one of that great number either a major, colonel, &c. juft as fhe fhould think proper: But I asked him, Whether he thought it poffible, that (he could inftantly, without education, make one of all that great number qualified for my bufinefs? And, laftly, K k I told I told him, that though I made no pretention to be a foldier, yet I defpif ed his threats, and thought myfelf completely qualified to defend myfelf againft any bravo whatfoever, efpecially as I happened to have the moft contemptible notion of either their honour or true courage. At this the major was going to make fome bold reply, with a countenance full of anger, and martial pride, when the prince ordered filence. Break-faft ended, we retired. Some of our officers were well pleafed with what had happened, for he had carried a very high command over them ; efpecially, as they were not well known to the prince as yet, they did not care to after t their right all at once. Soon after this, the major and I made up matters fo effectually, that, during the whole time of the embaffy we never had any great difpute, whatever private animofities he might have retained againft me. We had now been fix days in this city, during which we had fent off all our heavy baggage and prefents for Aftrachan, under a good guard of our foldiers, when the prince gave orders for us to march out of town next morning at break of day. We were all in motion, and the greateft part of the command already in the defart, when I was roufed from fleep by the report of the great guns from the city walls, in honour of the prince. We had a convoy of five hundred dred Coffacks added to our dragoons, which was enough for any body of fcattered Kalmucks that we could meet wkh in the defart, efpecially as the banks of the Volga were well lined with many regiments of dragoons and Coffacks. We arrived on the banks of the Volga, oppofite to Aftrachan, in the evening of the ninth day after our departure from Tzaritzin. In the morning the prince was attended by all the principal officers and citizens in Aftrachan. The governor fent his barge for the prince, and many boats from the admiralty brought over the reft of his retinue. Tjais morning, between fleep and waking, I was afflicted with an exceeding itchy fenfation in my left leg. Not doubting that it was the bite of fome infect, I haftily fcratched the part affected. The nail of one of my fingers catched hold of the fmalleft angle of a piece of matter as hard as a bone, and railed it up, tearing the fcarf fkin off more than half an inch long, which occafion ed a very fmart pain; the bafe, however, ftuck faft, and required fome affiftancetogetitout. This could be nothing elfe but perfpirable matter, which by length of time had increafed to fucb hard-nefs and magnitude infenfibly: It was in form of an Ifofceles, thelittle wound of which 1 bear the mark to this day, but foon healed, up, without any difficulty. The The prince ordered his barge to row directly to the great gate in the city, reaching to the Volga, and commanded all his gentlemen to row immediately after him. £Jow the Volga exhibited a (how of a greater number of barges, boats, and canoes, than ever I had feen upon it at any one time before this. As we palfed the admiralty, they faluted him with their ordnance. At laft we arrived ; the governor waited at the port to receive his Excellency. The governor, having paid his compliments, defired to know, If his Excellency would pleafe to be carried into the city in his coach ? This the prince declined ; returned him thanks, and told him, that he chuled rather to walk ; and Immediately went forward to the gate; which he no fooner entered, than the great guns above that gate began, and the ialute went round both city and citadel. The cavalcade marched flowly to the houfe appointed for the prince's reception, not very far •from the port. The flreets on both fides were lined with foldiers under arms, both for honour, and to keep off the mob from obftru&ing the paffage of their former governor, whom they greatly loved. By the time the ordnance had nnifhed the firing, the prince was entering into his houle, when the fmall arms began, and gave a running fire frora the houfe to the port. The governor had ordered the ftandard to be placed before before the prince's apartments, at his arrival, with a guard of a hundred and twenty men, and defired to know, If his Highnefs required a greater number ? but this he declined. CHAP. XVIIL Concerning what happened at Aftrachan during our Jlaj there, ckc. IPaid my refpecls to my old friends, and left the management of my affairs to the care of my younger brother William (the fame who was killed at the Moro Caftie,) whom I had left in Aflrachan with Mr Thomfon. They were the firft who informed me, that the tables were turned with Governor Tatifhoff : That, no doubt, many complaints had contributed thereto ; but that the murder of the Armenian, formerly taken notice of, had given the finifhing ftroke ; for that the Armenians had privately lent a deputation to St Peterfburgh, who had managed matters fo well, that another governor was appointed in his place; and that he was ordered to Mofcow, to be there tried for the many crimes laid to his charge. Others faid, that they had private letters from St Peterfburgh, affirming, that orders were either fent, or to be fent foon, commanding Mr Tatifhoff to be kept prifoner and tried in Aftrachan, unr der der the direction, of Prince Golitzin. I went alfo at a proper time to pay my re-Ipects to the governor, whofe misfortunes I could not help commiferating, though I was certain he had deferved any thing which could happen. This undoubtedly is a weak-nefs which I never could get the better of, and when it takes poffeflion of the hearts of men in great power, produces very dangerous confequences, and much unhinges government. I believe, if, upon this occafion, I had been his abfolute judge, I would probably have caufed him reftore to every one what he had furreptkioufly, or other-wife, taken from them, but could have proceeded to no higher punifliment. Mr Tatifhoff I found the very fame man, not at all call down : He told me, that a fet of fools, his enemies, who durfl not attack him bravely, had fent a fool, like themfelves, to be governor of Aflrachan ; and that he had orders to retire to Mofcow, being afraid to let him go for St Peterfburgh, left, faid he, I get an opportunity of detecting their unworthiness to her Majefly, or her miniflry ; but, faid he, that may yet happen to be the cafe ; for they are not overloaded with prudence; I know them well. He faid much more, with which it is needlefs to trouble the reader. However, in a few days this new governor arrived ; and no fooner did he come to the city, than Mr Tatifhoff yielded yielded up die palace to him, and profered to fell him his coach-horfes, and as much hay as would completely feed them, and many more, during the winter. The new governor laid, that he would buy them all at the price Tatifhoff had put on them, but acknowledged, that he had not enough of money to pay for them at that time. Mr Tatifhoff anfwered, that if he would only give his bill, payable againft a certain term, they fliould be at his fervice. This the other a-greed to; and then Mr Tatilhoff defired the ufe of the barge to carry him to the other fide of the Volga, becaufe he intended to fet out for Ruflia next morning early. This was not refufed ; and he immediately left Aflrachan. Mr Thomfon and I took a farewell of him that evening on the other fide, where we fupped with him, and were entertained with his opinion of our new governor. Eight days had not palled, when the governor received an order from the fenate, ordering him to confine Mr Tatifhoff in A-ftrachan, and bring him to a trial there, under the direction of Prince Golitzin. It feems Mr Tatifhoff had got notice from St Peterfburgh, that the fenate would fend fuch an order ; wherefore he, (Mr Tatifhoff,) fent for the pott-matter, and charged him to fend flraight into the governor's houfe ail manner of pacquets or letters, and all couriers from from either St Peterfburgh or Mofcow : By this means he got the order now fpoken of, and put it into his pocket, without communicating the contents of it to any belonging to the Chancery or Precawfe. He carried it with him till he was at or near Tzaritzin, and then returned it, under a blank cover, to our new governor ; who no fooner received it, than he fent off an officer to bring him back. This officer came up with him about Tamboff, and declared what orders he had from the governor of Aflrachan : But Mr Tatifhoff was not to be taken in fuch a pitiful trap. He laughed heartily at the governor of Aflrachan, and ordered the officer to tell him, that he was not fit to govern Aflrachan, who acted fo much like a child ; for, faid he, none but a child or changeling would fend orders to apprehend any perfon in another governor's province, without his knowledge ; and therefore required him to return back to Aflrachan. The officer faid, that he thought the new governor had not acted right, but that he was obliged to obey ; and therefore begged, that Mr Tatifhoff would give him a letter to 'carry to the governor, that he might be convinced he had come up with him. This Mr Tatifhoff readily granted, and proceeded on his way to Mofcow, where I fhall for the prefent leave him* My My place by the Tea hofpital was now i)\U ed up by a phyfician, a Macedonian, who had fluclied at Padua : He told me, that in the year 1739, the laft year of the 1 urkhh war, his countrymen, the Macedonian Chriftians, had aftembled in a body of between thirty and forty thoufand men, with a delign to free themfelves from 1 urkifh flavery ; prompted thereto by the Ruffian fuccefs in Walachia and Moldavia ; but that the peace, which foon fucceeded, and the Ruffians having been ignorant of lb formidable a body of friends, was the caufe of the total ruin of them all ; for the Turks fell on them with great armies; and though they fold their lives very dear, killed them all to a man, making their country a deiart. If this account is true, it ferves to denionftrate, that die Greeks are not quite reduced to infenftbility, and that they are very fenfible of the weight of the oppreilions to which they are at prefent fubjected ; from which they would very willingly run all rifles to be freed. It (hows alfo, that very great armies of Crnftians might be formed in Greece, feeing Macedonia could produce forty thoufand effective men alone: And, if I remember well, the doctor faid, that thefe forty thoufand men were only gathered together from a part of Macedonia. Early we received advice from St Peterfburgh, that we were to take up our winter* l 1 quarters quarters in this city; becaufe in October it was too late in the year to proceed to Periia; wherefore every thing was fo clif jpofed of as to give us no trouble ; fo that our time was fpent in diverting ourlelves as we thought proper, fhe prince exerciied himfelf twice, an J (bmetim.es thrice a-week in hunting. When I left Aflrachan 1 was in poifciiion of fix excellent grey-hounds, which 1 gave to my friends, with a promife, that they fhould be returned, if I required them, when 1 came back. Of this I acquainted the prince, and he ordered me to demand them, becaufe there was daily more than enough left in his kitchen than would have fed double that number. He bought for me an excellent pointer of the largeft fize. When the prince did not think proper to take his diverfion in the fields, he caufed his gentlemen allemble in his hall, and play at cards ; fometimes he joined them. He loved to have all his officers about him ; and if at any time any of them did not make their appearance at dinner, (for he kept daily open table for us all,) he could not be content till he was made certain they were all well. The mufic played daily during the time of dinner, in a fmall room opening into the hall, and the kettle drums and trumpets played upon a balcony before the hall, facing a large fquare, when the muficians took a reft. If the governor, or any of his own gentlemen, defired to make a party a party with the ladies for a dance, he never refufed the mullc, and very frequently would invite them to dance in his own hall, which was very large and convenient. Who could be diffatisfied with fuch a commander ? And who would not have defired to live with fuch agreeable company ? If a-ny difpute happened at any time amongft our gentlemen, the prince would not fpeak freely to either, till he was well allured that friendlhip was again heartily agreed upon: And as he hated all manner of ceremony, nothing was fo agreeable to him as to hear them converfe in his prefence with the greateft innocent polite freedom. One of our young gentlemen, one evening, having had a proper opportunity, was diverting himfelf with a very young maid. The young gentleman was rich ; and the commandant, who was a mifchievous man, very different from our prince, having got notice of it, perfuaded the girl to declare, that he wanted to commit a rape upon her, and that flie was all torn, and otherwile a-bufed. .This (lie did, and her mother declared the fame thing. When things were profperoully carried fuch lengths, the commandant waited upon the prince with a report of his own forming, in order to get the gentleman put under arreft. The prince, without permitting the commandant to go away, gave orders to the major to fend a fewr few men to her mother's houfe, and bring the girl before him immediately. The commandant hearing this, laid, that both (he and her mother were in his houfe, with his wife, and begged, that, as fhe had complained to him, he might have the liberty to judge of this affair. The prince, knowing the man, ordered the major to lend for them directly; telling the commandant, that he would find out the truth of this himfelf ; adding, that he was much miftaken, if there was a more modeft youth in the city. They had not waited long till both mother and daughter were brought into the prince's prefence. Without afking a tingle quellion about the affair, he ordered the major to place the girl with his wafher-woman, and a trufly centint! at the door, to permit none to Ipeak with her but fuch as fhould have his permiffion. Then he turned to the commandant, and faid, that her Majefty had trufled him with affairs of much more concern than that ; and concluded by defiring him to go home, faying, that he would take the trouble to fearch to the bottom of this dirty affair. The commandant was no fooner gone, than he fent for the young gentleman, and queflioned him privately, defiring him to fave trouble, by telling the truth ; and adjuring him, that he would endeavour to make things as eaiy as was pollible, even fuppofing his accufers were right. The youth frankly acknowledged, knowledged, that he had fondled with her, but abfolutely denied that he had had any further concern with her. He faid, that he was of opinion it would not have been dilagreeable to the maid ; but the place where they were was too open to attempt any thing of that kind. He continued to lay, that flie never called out, but laughed, as people do when they are tickled. So far good. The major was fent next to interrogate this young artful daughter of Eve, but could make out nothing, after twenty-four hours clofe confinement. At laft it was agreed upon as the beft and final trial, to order Dr Lerch and me ftrictly to examine her before lioneft matrons ; for flie faid, that at that time fhe was all fwelled, and in fuch condition as is better underftood than deicribed. Accordingly, the doctor and 1 having received proper orders, went, in company with a few of the officers, to pay the firft vifit to this termagant. I was informed, that the doctor was in great friendlhip with the commandant, andconfequently, it was fulported, would favour him as much aslie well could; wherefore I was very cautious howTacted. At our entry, I defired the doctor to put what queftions he might think proper ; which, indeed, were few, and very little to the purpofe. When he had done, I told her, that I was very forry fo many people had got fo much trouble about this affair: That 1 fhould not take up time time to put a fiugle queflion to her ; only as fhe was a very young woman, it flic had the leafl modefly, fhe would not chute to have her body expoled to the open view of men and women, unlefs there was truly great caufe for it* I obferved to her, that Dr Lerch and I, both married men, who had many years ferved her Majefly honourably, would, after the flricfeft fearch, declare the truth ; and that, fuppofing flie had been privately playing tricks with herfelf, which might deceive ignorant people, yet I could allure her, that all the tricks flie was miftrefs of would not deceive us. I obferved to her farther, that, fuppofing we reported, which probably would be the cafe, that (lie herfelf was the caufe of any complaint flie had made ; in that cafe, the would be punifhed mofl feverely with the whip ; whereas if, without giving us or herfelf any further trouble, fhe told the truth, I could af-fure her, that the prince would immediately give orders to let her go, without any pn-nifhment whatfoever. Having done, I demanded her anfwer, or elfe we would immediately proceed as we were ordered. She began with pouring forth a flood of tears, and faid. that the lieutenant had only fondled with her : 7 hat her mother having got notice of it, fuppofing that lie was very rich, had hurt her, and othcrways metamorpholed. her, fo as to make people believe flie had been been abufed : That the commandant's wife had no fmall lhare in this bale affair. This was all taken down in writing, in the prefence of many gentlemen, by whom it was attefted to have been taken without dread of punifliment, or being encouraged thereto by the hopes of reward ; and, by the prince's orders, ihe was let go : But her mother was taken up, put under arreft, where Ihe con-felled alfo; but added, that flie was prompted thereto by the commandant's wife. No doubt, fhe hoped to efcape punifliment, as her daughter had done ; but in this (he was deceived ; for the prince ordered her to be whipped ; which, I was informed, the major caufed to be performed with feverity. The commandant was by this means fo reclaim-* ed, that he gave no dillurbance to any of us during our (lay there ; for the prince told him, that he was to take care of his proper affairs with alfiduity, and fend his reports to the major: That the prince was determined, after this never to make him his companion: And finally, that if he did not in every refpecf behave as became an officer, he, (the prince,) would appoint another commandant, and fend him elfewhere. It is impoffible to imagine, that a body of fo many young men could remain fo long in one place without fome turmoils happening fometimes, notwithstanding the belt care having been taken to prevent them. It is not worth the reader's while, nor indeed mine, to write every incident which happened during our (ray at Aftrachan; Let it therefore fuffice to lay, that, one day the prince having fent a criminal to the governor to be punifhed, the governor did not readily inflict the punifliment, but reported, that he would take time to inquire into the affair, and then proceed as the prince had directed. Upon receiving this report, the prince caufed demand the priibner directly, Jetting the governor know, that if he refilled to comply, he would immediately fufpend him from being governor, till her Majefly's pleafure ftiould be known. The governor would not risk too much, and therefore fent back the prifoner, who was inftantly punifhed at the ffandard, as were all others ever after this, who had tranlgrefled in our neighbourhood, or with the embaffy. One winter-day I went to the country for a drive in my fledge, and to feek a little di-verfion. I was dreffed in a fur, and was accompanied by two of our own foldiers. I had got into one of the vine-gardens at the greateft dill an ce from the city. I left my fledge and the foldiers at the proprietor's houfe till I had fearched the garden. I had got one (hot, and the covey did not fly very far, but lighted in a corner of the fame garden. Alter I had charged, I walked up towards wards the place where they were, and fpied two men coming upon the fame ground ; one of them carried nets, poles, <&c. upon his (houlders, for catching partridges. I requefted them not to go upon the game, faying, that I was in purfuit of them. The fellow who had the poles over his fhoulder anfwrered me by threats, and much opprobrious language, and advanced very fall to where I Hood. I charged him to keep at a diftance, threatening to flioot him, if he did not. One of them went away ; but he with the poles advanced in a greac rage. Although I was in no fmall danger, and out of the view or hearing of the foldiers, I could not think of (hooting a man who had no fire arms. I waited, and when near, que-ftioned him, What could be the reafon of fo much anger at me, for afking a very fmall favour ? The brute continued his threats, till he was now within reach of me, and was preparing to give me a blow with his poles ; when, with the butt-end of my piece, I, de* ligning to ftrike on his face, hit him on the neck fo firm a blow, that he fell into a hollow, where I reiterated my ftrokes two or three times, and then run to the top of a riling ground to call the foldiers. They very foon appeared, and feized this villain. If any boor affronts an officer in her Majefly's fervice, the officer, without being obliged to follow a tedious way of profecution at law, M m inftantly inftantly punifheth the fellow for his fault* 1 therefore ordered the foldiers to take him to the houfe, where I defigned to caufe chaftife him. When all was ready, and the fellow (tripped, thelandlord appeared, and difcharged me from correcting him on his ground. I, uncertain whether I had a right to correct him there, ordered the foldiers to let him go ; of which he was fo very glad, that, without waiting to put on his cloaths, he took them up in his arms, and ran off as fall as he was able. I ordered the horfes to be put to, and told thelandlord, that, though I was a ftran-ger to that villain he had now preferved from the jure punifliment I cleiigned for him, I would have no difficulty to get at him as his abbettor; and returned to Aftrachan, and acquainted the prince of this affair, fie ordered a ferjeant with a few men to bring in the landlord, who hardly efeaped a whipping ; but, by my interceffion, was let go, alter lie had difcovered the abode of his villainous neighbour ; who alfo being apprehended in his bed, was brought in. He begged, that the ferjeant would bring him to me firft; where, with tears, and promifes never to be guilty of the like to any other, I forgave him, and defired the ferjeant to acquaint the major, in order to have him liberated ; but this the major durft not do, till the prince was made acquainted with his being brought there. The prince, after he had examined examined him, and he had acknowledged his crime, and begged for forgivenefs, faid, that as 1 had already forgiven him, for what he had acted againft me, fo he forgave him for that trefpafs ; but as he had trefpaffed againft the peace of the country, he ordered him to be whipped feverely, and let go. After this we remained in Aftrachan without any di-fturbance, till we got orders to proceed on our way to Perfia, by the weft lide of the Cafpian Sea. Capt. Bernhour,one of our gentlemen, Mr Thomfon, and I, made a party to go to hunt the wild boar at a fiftiery near the Cafpian, where it was faid many of thefe creatures were frequently feen. Having obtained leave of the prince, we fet out inaftrongfroft to the fiftiery, but got no fport. However, night drew on, and we agreed to lodge there, and take our fleep in a warm room upon fome hay. We were compoling ourfelves to deep, when the man who lived in the fiftiery acquainted us, that feveral men had befet this building, and advifed us to get up, left they might burn it, or get at our horfes. We were not long in getting ready ; and our pieces being all charged with ball for the boars, we primed afrefti, and went out. The building was a fquare, into which they had not ventured to come. We went out at the only entry, and fpied three horfemen at the corner ; at whom one of us fired a piftol, charged charged only with powder, upon which they rode off. We went quite round the ftfhery without feeing any more. This a-larm put an end to our fleep that night; and we returned to Aftrachan next morning as early as we could. At which time the prince was ordering a party of dragoons to come for us ; for he had got notice, that a ftrong body of Caracalpaaks were in thefe parts. We told him what we had met with, and how narrowly we had efcaped. Upon which he ordered the governor to fend oft* fome men to protect the merchants fiflieries. And this accident, trifling as it was, proved the fafety of the fiflieries ; for the Caracalpaaks, knowing they were difcovered, made no flay, but returned into their own country, without committing any depredations. One day, foon after our arrival in Aftrachan, one of the three Tartars who had convoyed me with their horfes from Aftrachan to Tzaritzin, told me, that as he and his countrymen were returning betwixt Eanatai-ova and Aftrachan, the Kalmucks way-laid them, murdered the other two, and wounded him, and robbed them of their horfes, and other effects. He faid, that they pretended that they did fo to revenge the death of their friends, who had attacked us, as I mentioned formerly. He faid, that, having been wounded at their firft aftault, he fell, and, for for fome time, was infenfible : That when he recovered the ufe of his reafon, the Kalmucks had gone off with their horfes, carriages, cloaths, and money, leaving only his two dead countrymen with him: That foon after, fome fifhermen took him into their boat, having buried his friends, and fent him to Aflrachan : That he had applied to the governor, and had difcovered fome of the horfes ; but neither could get the Kalmucks punifhed, nor his horfes returned, which were in poffeflion of the Ruffian refi-dent, by the Khan. I applied, and ufed all my intereft to get the poor man's horfes returned ; but the refident eluded all my endeavours, upon pretence that that affair had already coft him much more than the value of the horfes. Thus we fee, by this in-ftance, that juftice is very hardly to be gotten, even in Ruflia, without paying more than the value of it. I fliall mention two cafes which happened in our hofpital this winter ; which appearing lingular to me, who has had fo very extenfive practice, may be agreeable to fome of my readers. I was informed that a young flrong dragoon was very ill of an erfypelas over his right arm ; and Dr Lerch defiring my advice, I, amongft other things, recommended to blood him. Accordingly, one of our young men took fixteen ounces of Wood from the right arm, confidering that the the dragoon was very feverifli, and all rea-fonable alftftance, both internal and external, was not wanting. Next morning, when we came to the hofpital, I was not a little furprized to fee the right arm excefilve-Jy inflamed, and raflily found fault with the young man who had let blood. I therefore called for a lancet, and let blood from his left arm. His fever being nothing ditui-nilhed, on the third day the inflammation had fixed itfelf in the arm which I had blooded, and the other arm was not in the leaft inflamed. Now I faw plainly how much I was deceived, and how ignorant I was about all the differences of this dangerous difeafe. This poor man lay in the greateft danger in a high fever more than five weeks, before we could have the leaft hopes of his recovery. It changed its fituation every five or fix days : Nor did he recover till it had run over his whole body ; the face and hairy fcalp were not exempted ; and in three or four days after it had left the part, the fcarf-skin came off, as if a bliftering plaifter had been applied to it, This, however, was the only example I ever met with of the like kind, though I have undoubtedly feen many thoufands in this difeafe. The man recovered afterwards to an exceeding good ftate of health. One day the doctor defired that I would vifit a dragoon, much diftreffed with an exr crcfcence crefcence in ano, which prevented his getting pafTage by flool. At my firft viiitation we difcovered a globe, of a red colour, about the bignefs of a fmall plumb, pendulous* When I drew it to me, I introduced a pair of good fciffars, and at once inapped it off. Next day, we difcovered another, and the day following a third, all which I cut off in the fame manner ; and the man recovered without any other trouble. The mentioning of thefe difeales fo very briefly, may be of ufe to fome, and cannot be very dilagreeable to any of my learned and humane readers. The Ruffians being at peace with all their neighbours affords me nothing of moment to fay about our armies, and indeed there was little difturbance of any kind upon the borders of Aftrachan. One evening lace, the governor fent to defire I would fpeak with him; when I came, I faw Mr Chiricoff the fecretary, and judged that fome affairs concerning the Britifh trade was going on. The governor defired me to take a glafs or two of wine, and then produced a bundle of Englifli letters, which he had received from Perfia. He faid, that he wanted, by orders from St Peterfburgh, to know only if they mentioned any thing of the Shach or Captain Elton. He defired therefore, as no perfon was able to interpret them in Aftrachan, that I would take the trouble to glance them over, and let him him know if any thing was mentioned in them relating to thefe two men, telling me at the fame time, that he was authorifed to do fo by the Britifh merchants in St Peterfburgh. He faid, that he wanted to know nothing of the merchants private affairs, nor of their accompts* Not doubting of the truth of all he told me, I run them over, and fome mention was made of Captain Elton, but none about Kouli Khan. The fecretary took down what was written about Elton ; and, when all was done, he produced a paper, defiring me to fign it, obliging myfelf never to difcover that he had required me to communicate the contents of thefe letters to him. At this I flared, and being furprifed, tolci him that I fufpec~ted he had no good authority for what we had been doing, and added, that I never would fign that paper, nor interpret another letter for him; and took my laft farewell, as I never could be prevailed upon to make him a fecond vifit. The Imperial Duke was feized with the fmall-pox in the beginning of this year, as he was travelling between Mofcow and St Peterfburgh, to which laft city he was going,. He lay ill in fome village, recovered very well, and was married upon the prefent Emprefs in the month of September. The wedding was very grand and fhowy. Our major was prefent at it, and gave us, at his return, a very a very fuccincl: account, but which is not very material to the reader. CHAP. XIX. Concerning -what pa fed in the Tear 1746. Our March from Aftrachan to Kizlaar, &c* FHOM January till July, we lived as I de-fcribed formerly; nor did any thing happen worth the reader's notice, except that fometimes lafl winter, a fumptuary law was made, and orders fent throughout the empire, commanding that all people of no great rank, whether men or women, who had cloaths of brocade cloth, or other cloaths mounted with gold or lilver lace, not allowable by law, fhould get them hidden apart : That, after a certain date, if merchants, merchants wives, and others forbidden to wear fuch cloaths, were difcovered to have any fuch in their cuftody, not fealed, the cloaths would be taken from them, and they obliged to pay a large fine ; and if not able to pay it, commanding that fuch fools fhould be whipped on the bare back in the public market-place. Another order was fent at the fame time, letting forth, that many young gentlemen had ruined themfelves, and loft their paternal eftates, particularly in the city of Mofcow by gaming with cards ; therefore N n for- forbidding that game, under the penalty of one thoufand rubles. In Mofcow, fome old general had, upon promifes of preferment in the army, decoyed many of the Ruffian noble thoughtlels youth to his houie, and, after a few vilits, difmiffed them helplefs, having fpoiied them of their eiiates by this curled game. The Emprels, at lafl having got notice of it, cauied this old hunks reftore them their eftates and money, with good intereft ; and caufed this order to be fent thro' the empire, forbidding that game altogether. This was a little hard upon people who had not much to do, like us at that time ; but our major returning foon alter we had received the order, fet all hands to work, by acquainting us that the meaning of the order was only to difcharge people from playing for great fums; adding, that the whole court played daily, and none loved the diverfion better than the Emprefs, whom he faw playing, and produced, from one of the mi n if try, a declaration to that purpofc. Upon receiving this agreeable news, we all gamed as formerly, and continued fo during ourftay in Aftra-Ci an One day, the governor entered the hall, whilfl we were all very merry, and he, knowing nothing of the reveriion of the order, ex-preffed his great furprize that we durft play, after it was forbidden under high penalties; but, when he was informed of this change, he he begged to be admitted a party. Thus we continued till the latter end of July, at which time we received orders to make what halte we could to proceed on our journey, after having fent our weighty baggage, prefents, and horfes, by fea, to the port of Backu. Three (hips were got ready for this purpoie ; and on the 14th of September our dragoons, horlcs, and baggage necelfary for immediate ufe, with our own horles, Dr Lerch and his mate, were fent to the other lide of the Volga. On the 1 5th, the prince went over to fee that every thing was in good order. By the time he reached the fhore, the tents were all (truck, the horfes yoked, and the dragoons mounted. So, after they were muttered, they paid their military compliments, and marched away into the deiart. On the 23d, the three (hips were all loaded, and dropped down the Volga, clcfigned for the port of the Perfian city Backu. I law the horfes put on board : They had prepared proper Ralls for receiving the horfes in the holds of the (hips, with (lings .that they might not be hurt in time of tempeftuous weather ; and, what is very remarkable, the fpirited horfe of Englifli brood, formerly mentioned, feemed upon this occafion, to be more fenfible of fear than any of the reft. They put him on board in the faiiK manner as they had done the red, only they imagined that he would not be quite fo tradable, and and dierefore blindfolded him at a greater di-ilance from the velfel ; then they put a broad double fail-cloth round his body, reaching from his lore to his hinder legs, and fixed it on his back with loops, into which an iron hook, at the end of a rope from one of the yard-arms of the (hip, was introduced and made fall. When the creature felt them give the firft pull, he ftrng-gled, ftruck, and reared; but the men who pulled were fo clever, that after he reared, he could not get his fore feet to touch the ground again, and in an inftant he was hanging in the air, trembling all over, and evacuating his dung. When he was let down into the fhip's hold, he lay down like a dog, nor would he rife for fome time. Every thing being ready, and all incumbrances being removed, the prince fet out from Aftrachan, in company with his own proper officers, and all the principal people in Aftrachan, civil, military, and eccleiiaflick, upon the 25th. Upon this occafion, all honours were liberally paid him, in the fame manner as when he arrived. The good old prince cauled his gentlemen ply the bottle to ibme purpofe upon this occafion. I did not join them, but walked with Mr Thomfon at fome diftance, upon the banks of the Volga ; but a fignal having been made for us to mount, at my return I faw the effects of their their toping in many places. On the fignal given, we mounted, and rode up the Volga five verfts north, then turned weft, and rode on the top of a very long hill, with lakes on both fides, till we were computed to be diftant in a Ilraight line from Aftrachan about fifteen verfts. The prince, having fent off all his dragoons, and the greateft part of his foldiers, was therefore efcorted with about five hundred Coffacks and Tartars. Our firft fiage was on the fouth fide of a ridge of hills, extended eaft and weft, in a meadow having a pleafant lake of .frefh water to the fouth. On the north fide of this ridge was a lake crufted over with fait, as white as fnow on the furface, about one and a half inch thick, turning red about the middle of its thicknefs, then inclining to black, and at the bottom as black as ink, which, when the furface was broken, emitted a very noifome ftinking exhalation. An accident happened here, which I cannot pais by, without acquainting the reader of it: An Armenian lieutenant-colonel took this fafe opportunity to march with us to his regiment at or near Kizlaar : He, according to the cuftoni of his country, did not ride in his uniform, but had cloaths, which he thought more convenient for travelling, whole tails were gathered together, and put into a very large pair of breeches, fomething like the Hollanders or Kalmucks. 1 had a bitch, bitch, the mother of my four greyhounds ; fiie was extremely pretty, of the fmall Italian brood. She was brought up from a puppy about the hofpital of Aftrachan, and ad an antipathy at fuch drefs, though flu was very gentle to people drefled in the European fa-fhion ; which was occafioned by the Kalmucks, who tiled to pafs by the hofpital morning and evening daily, with whom ihe had many battles. The colonel, among the reft, without changing his clrefs, went to pay his refpects to the prince. The bitch was tied in my fleeping waggon ; ihe no fooner fpied the colonel, than Ihe broke the cord with which (he was tied, and, fwift as lightning, feized the back parts of the colonel's breeches, which (he tore to pieces in an inftant, leaving his pofteriors to open view. The colonel, in a dcfperate rage, drew his broad fword, and threatened dellruclion to my poor bitch ; but (he was well exercifed, and had been long accuftomed to that fort of game. She was at a confiderabie diftance before he was ready to make a ftroke, and (he was preparing to make the other attack. The colonel and his antagonift made fo unexpected a piece of divedion, that the prince and the reft of the gentlemen had like to have died laughing. This fport was not fo agreeable to me, who was accuftomed, long-before this, to the like. I was afraid that the colonel, in his great rage, would have (hot my my bitch,- I therefore loft no time in getting her fecured ; when I had done this, I went to the colonel, who was going to drefs as formerly, and begged of him not to do it, af-foring him, that it would be almoft impolli-ble to watch the bitch. I told him what ill-will (he bore to fuch drefs, and the caufe of it. I begged him to drefs in his uniform, and walk out, alluring him that the beaft would be as gentle to him as any other perfon fo drefled. After his anger was a little over, he followed my advice, and I let the creature go at liberty, to convince him of the truth of my aftcrtion ; but ever after, he did not care to truft her too far : However, he took the precaution to drefs in his uniform before he left his waggon, or made his appearance in public. The prince called the bitch, ever after this, the Difciplinarian. The hills, through which we had travelled, Were covered with a little grafs, and much a-brotanum, abfhuhium, and different kinds oi'kali, but no fhrubs. We faw no game here. We travelled from this place about eleven o'clock at night, and cUrecled our courfe weft ; the wind being northerly, it was not warm. After we had travelled about twenty verfts from our laft ftage, we encamped on the top of a ridge of hills, ftretching eaft and weft, having a fait lake on the north fide, and a frefh water lake on the fouth, from which we took twenty carts loaded with water, ter, becaufe we had little profpecl of getting any more frefh water in this deiart, till we came on the banks of the pleafant Bcketi, a-bout four hundred verfts diitant from where we then were. We fed our horfes a few hours, and proceeded farther in the fame direction, paifing by many low fandy hills upon the north, and fome fmall lakes through the fame kind of ibil as formerly ; only we difcovered large quantities of kali humilis in flower. After we had travelled twenty verfts, we encamped on the fouth fide of a great lake of fait water* having fome hills to the fouth, on the evening of the 26th. We faw here many Kalmucks with their flocks ; but they would not come near us. In the very place where we encamped, my hounds killed the firft hare in this expedition ; and our out-fcouts laid, that they had feen fome fai-gaaks, or antelopes. I had but juft laid myfelf down in my waggon, when 1 fpied the prince going round, to fee if the centinels were alert, cjuite alone. I went to him, begged that he would take his fleep, as he had been complaining: He faid, that he could .not put much truft in his younkers, as he called his gentlemen, who, he faid, were fleep-ing as found as if they had been in Aftra-chan ; but added, that if I would watch for him, he would go to bed; and, being eight o'clock, defired I would fet them out at eleven. I allured him I was not in the leaft flcepy, fleepy, and therefore would pointedly obey his orders, and he condefcended to go to bed; precifely at eleven I had them all in llir. We proceeded from this place called BufoV machay, and arrived early in the morning at another lake of fait Water called Afhega-fhee, feventeen verfts diftant from the former. On the twenty-feventh, there was another lake diftant from us about an Englifti mile, upon the banks of which much of the herb lotus flore albo grew, which proved good food for our horfes, of which they eat very plentifully. Here we killed fome hares. We marched oh, after we had refted about three hours, twenty-five verfts farther fouth-weft ; the wind being northerly it was very cold. We palled over many low iandy hills, lying eaft and weft, upon which little grew except kali* We encamped upon the weft-end of a lake of fait water called Vilhni ; here we killed fome hares. On the 28th, we fet out and arrived at a fmall hill, three-fourths furround-ed by a lake called Tehirili. At this place we met with between thirty and forty Turkoman Tartars, who would give no account of themfelves till their chief was forced thereto with the whip. He faid, that they had been carrying fait to Kizlaar; tho* we were of opinion that they were freebooters: They rode upon dromedaries. The prince did not chufe to take them to Kizlaar, becaufe we O o were were afraid we would have little provifion for ourfelvcsji: He therefore threatened to hunt them out, if he heard of any mifchief done by them; and advifed them to return into their own country. This defart is as barren as any we palled through from Aflrachan ; from which city our guides computed we had travelled one hundred and forty-five verfts. In the afternoon we travelled over many barren hills, as defcribed formerly: We law very many antelopes and hares; but our dogs were fo fatigued upon this barren hard fandy ground that we could get none: After we had made a journey of twenty verfts, we encamped on the weft-end of a lake of fait water called Churiri; here I killed fome ducks, fnipes, and a water-hen. On the 29th, we arrived at a little hill, diftant about thirty verfts from our laft ftage. The country thro' which we palled was more even than formerly: Here we paffed a company of Baiguftj,or poor Kalmucks. Our road now is almoft ilraight fouth. This defart is fo very fandy that grafs is very rarely to be feen, except upon the banks of lakes; and the earth betwixt this and Aftrachan is all mixed with fait. In the afternoon we marched twenty-five verfts farther; and, having put my dogs in my waggon yefterday, and anointed their feet, I rendered them more able to run. I had the good fortune to run down two antelopes, which was very agreeable to all our company, becaufe becaufe we had got no odier frefh provifions than mutton and fowls. We catched a third antelope in the evening: The weather was very ferene, but cold. The antelopes are fo very fearful, that if a dog gives the leaft bite, it immediately tumbles down, nor does it offer to rife. Its ftefti is extremely tender, and of eafy digeftion; but it has a peculiar flavour, fomething, as I faid before, refembling mufk, which foon cloyed my ftomach; but many of our gentlemen eat daily plentifully of it, without making any complaint, or finding fault with this very particular flavour, which delicate flomachs can not relifh. We encamped on the fouth-weft end of a lake of fait water, on the top of a hill: We faw very few herbs in this defart, or even grafs ; poflibly there might have been fome on the banks of the lake, which was very extenfive; but I had no time to look for any. On the 30th September, we travelled fouthward through a defart like the laft, but more fan-dy, twenty-five verfts, and arrived upon a ridge of fandy mountains, lying eaft and weft, being about one verft over from north to fouth. I was told, that thefe fandy mountains run from the Cafpian fca weft about, eighty verfts. Here we were obliged to take our dinner, becaufe the horfes were fatigued by drawing our carts through deep lands; and we had ftill to march through more finds: but we found here fome wells of pretty good water, water, of which, though not very clear, our horfes were very needful, and drank heartily. I walked over thefe fandy hills on foot with difficulty, the fand was fo very fluxi-We i and if the wind at anytime blows ftrongly, the fand is driven about fo thick that it is very dangerous for the traveller to find his way; befides he runs the rifque of being bur rieci under them, not only on the hills, but many verfts on each fide of them. I found many fhells of fea-nfh, fuch as muffels, oy-(ters, &c. tho' no fuch fifh are to be found now living upon any part of the Cafpian fhore where I was; nor did I ever fee any man who could give any account of their prefent exiftence here. The inhabitants of thele delarts fay, that the Cafpian formerly covered all that fpace which is now filled up with fand. I found an herb in flower not far from the turbid water I mentioned very like akea, of which I have a plant preferred. We faw alfo many great flocks of a kind of moorfowl, differing from any I had ever feen either in Scotland or Ruifia: Their feathers have much more of a white colour ; they are extremely wild, fo that I could not get a fhot of them here, tho* I have frequently killed them in other places: 1 heir flefh is very white, tender, and more delicious than the flefh of a-ny other fowl I know. The Ruffians and Tartars call them Trepeati; my poor hounds, being being ftill lame, could not .run, though we faw plenty of different kinds of game. Having refled only about onef hour and a half, we marched twenty-three verfts farther, through a low fandy foil. We law at no great diftance from us fandy hills lying, from the laft hills I mentioned, eaft from us,ftretch-ing fouth ward parallel to the road we took. We encamped upon a round hill, becaufe we found fome grafs for our poorftarved horfes: The weather was very cold, the wind blowing from the north. October, the firft day, we fet out from this hill, and paffed by what the Tartars call Ku-ma river: It is a long valley full of lakes of fait water, furrounded with reeds; the habitations of many millions of mufquetoes: Thefe lakes are faid to produce many filh, but we were not permitted to ftay; and I am of opinion, that at this time of the year no man could withftand the numbers and vigour of thefe intolerable mufquetoes. We faw much game, and more of the trepeati, but could get none of them. I purfued two hares, who, when hard put to it, run into holes under ground. We faw about this Kuma fome fhort grafs, of which the horfes were very fond. We having travelled twenty-five verfts through low fandy hills, encamped a-bout two verfts fouth-weft from a great lake of fait water called Odack: Pafting by this lake we were welcomed by fuch fwarms of mufquetoes, mufquetoes, that we and our horfes carried many millions of them to our camp, where we were obliged to breathe, all the time we ftaid here, in the thick difagreeable fmoak of cut grafs and reeds; nor could the ftouteft, nor llupideft man in our company, com pole himfelf to fleep. The Kuma is faid to be diftant from Aftrachan three hundred and fifty verfts, and one hundred and fifty verfts from Kizlaar : In this boggy Kuma we faw many large fnakes. We proceeded on our journey about eleven o'clock at night, and marched from this place only feventeen verfts farther. Our horfes having had no frefh water fince we left Churilee, we encamped for two hours on a riling ground on the 2d October, and then proceeded at eight o'clock in the morning, and travelling over a fmooth plain, arrived at a little round hill, upon the top of which Peter the Great fet three bombs, one upon another, as a lure mark for travellers : They were remaining, being ufelefs,and too weighty for the wild inhabitants of the defart to carry away. We travelled a little farther, and arrived at the north-weft corner of a great lake called Colpitche, from great flocks of fowls, which are called by the Ruffians Rolpike; by the Germans left el Gans; and I think, by the Englifli, the lefter Pelican. We flopped but one hour and an half here, and proceeded but five verfts farther, for the conveniency veniency of feeding our horfes. Our major rode to the place from whence we had encamped laft, diftant twenty-five verfts, to feek for a fine greyhound I had given him ; but his fearch proved unfuccefsful. He returned before we fet out, having rode fifty-five verfts very hard upon a hungry horfe, who had gone twenty-five verfts immediately before he mounted, in all eighty verfts, without eating* He no fooner difmounted than the horfe, quite faint, fell down as if dead; but by the induftrious care of a Kalmuck, he was recovered. At this laft place, a fmall hill, called Erlifhan, we had not (laid long when a ferjeant of dragoons arrived with forty horfemen to efcort us, and feventy horfes from Kizlaar, to allift our over-fatigued hungry horfes, in carrying us forward. At ten o'clock, poft meridiem, we marched from thence through a plain, but moft miferable land all night; and in the morning early, being the 3d of October, we arrived at the pleafant fmall river Beketi, running a ftream of frefh water through a fandy bottom ; no chry-flal clearer. This was moft agreeable both to man and beaft, having fecn no frefh water fince the 26th of September, except a very fmall quantity not quite frefh, and very dirty among the fandy hills, as has already been taken notice of. It was reported by Kulfians, Tartars, and others, that a poifon-ous herb grows in the defart we palled thro* laft, lafl:, which I imagine is forty verfts over; and many of them affirmed that they knew this plant very well. When we were palling through the defart, at my defire, the prince ordered all thofe wild virtuofi to make fearch for this poifonous plant, and bring it tb him. They did not agree concerning the famenefs of the plant, but brought different kinds of kali: One kind has a feed fmall, but fome-thing refembling a ftiake,being-long, curved, and tapering. To convince them that none of thefe herbs were poifonous, I eat a little of every kind; I caufed cut fome of it fmall, and mixing it with oats, gave it to my own horfes to eat. The Tartars were fo much prepofTeffed with the notion of its poifonous quality, that when they faw me do this, they faid that my horfes would certainly die, if it did not kill me. At JJeketi, the prince, at .my defire, ordered them to give their horfes but very little drink at firft; and, as the grafs grew there very luxuriantly, they were ordered to let them feed only for about half an hour, and then tied up for two hours. By this management none of our horfes died ; and I was informed, that only a few of the Tartar horfes were lick : Probably fome of the Tartars did not obferve the rules prefcri-bed them fb exactly as they ought to have done, which could not fail to have evil ef fects. It was believed by all our company, and probably was very true, that the Great Peter Peter loft fome thoufands of horfes at the Be-keti, after having travelled through the fame defart: But I imagine, that we having many-hundred horfes, and by this care, not having loft one of them, puts it out of doubt that the Emperor's horfes were not poifoned, but died by mifmanagement; efpecially if the following obfervations be confidered* From the 26th of September, to the 3d of October, the horfes had very little fait water to drink ; that the water every where was either very fait or faltifh; they were kept at hard work night and day, and had very little grafs to eat; they could get but few mouthfuls of grafs which were not mixed with the different kinds of kali, an herb very fait; that the moifture on the grafs, luch as dew or fmall rain, was faltifh; that when the wind blew, which was frequently the cafe, the lands and dull, raifed by the wind and their own motion, were mixed with fait, con -fequently they could not refpire without drawing into their lungs a quantity of fait. Every one can, without difficulty, figure to himfelf, that horfes who have endured fo much thirft and hunger, for fix days at leaft, and their ftomach, guts, &c. faturated with fuch quantities of fait, when let into a field of the rlcheft grafs and pureft water, will eat as long, and drink as much as they can. Whoever knows the changes which always happen to Vegetables, put into a ftate of fimple fermen- tation in a clofe veffel; and fuch knowing the nature of animal digeffion, can not be ignorant of caufe enough to kill any number of horfes after this manner, without the help of herbs, commonly accounted poifonous* I have faid enough concerning this affair, to fatisfy any intelligent gentleman, the nature of this work not permitting me. to enlarge upon it phylically: I fhall proceed, after having made this remark, tolij fome may think that it was unneceffary to have taken any notice of it at all, becaufe Britifh men have little chance of ever travelling through thefe de-farts. To this I anfwer, that the Britifh empire in India, Africa, and America, may doubtlefs in many countries produce the fame kind of defarts; and conlequently thefe ob-fervations may be of great uie for the prefer-vation of their horfes, fyc. I made enquiry, if any hories returning from Kizlaar to Aflrachan, died of thefe poifonous plants, but could get no latisfadlory anfwer. I had fix horfes of my own, and none of them were fick, though they eat of the kali which was called poifonous. We departed from this place, and marched by the fide of Beketi, fouth ward about twenty-three verfls, and paffed the fmall dirty deep river Barazda, upon a bridge of timber, and encamped upon the fouth-fkle of it in a low marfhy ground. We faw many hares, foxes, and great plenty of pheafants, red red breafted, billed, and legged partridges, with a variety of fnialler birds. No doubt many herbs grow here, but want of time, and the feafon of the year being far advanced, prevented my being able to difcover them. Next day being the fourth of October, We arrived in Kizlaar after a fmall march of only fix or feven verfts, where the prince received all the honours from the garrifon and great guns, as was formerly paid him in Aftrachan and elfewhere, CHAP. XX. Concerning Mr Jonas Hanway's Account of the Ambaffador9s journey, &c. Ido not intend here to give any account of what I know about the Britifh Perfian trade carried on through Aftrachan over the Cafpian fea ; all I intend is only to undeceive my readers of Mr Han way's account of the ambaftador's journey into Perfia. He got from me a fuperficial but true relation of our route. Mr Hanway however was not fatisfied with this, but, how genteel, I refer to the reader, joined mine to that cf others, efpecially of a jefuit, and out of them formed one of his own, much in the fame way as Mahomet formed his religion. Whatever he may think of this performance, is, is, to me, a matter of mere indifference, but fure Mr Hanway cannot take it ill when I thus publicly affirm, that he has abufedmy name by affixing it to many falfehoods. It would be tedious to detail them : Wherefore I lhall, for brevity's fake, take notice firft of his endeavouring to prepoffefs the world, that I have faid there are caravanfaries between Aftrachan and Kizlaar, which he calls Kizlar, his words are thefe, *' The read? ** er will obferve, that though there *' are a few caravanfaries, the country " has no fixed inhabitants!" I faw no caravanfaries, no not fo much as a fmall hut between the city of Aftrachan and Kizlaar- This piece of falfe intelligence he probably has had from his friend the Jefuit. Next, he gives a falfe account of the number and quality of the gentlemen, ire, belonging to the embafly, by not having obferved what I wrote him. Laftly, he gives falfe, accounts of the Circalfian Tartars, and many more falfe accounts through that journal, which he is not afhamed to call mine. Whoever are in poffeflion of Hanway's travels and mine, will eafily fee how wide his accounts of thefe things are of truth. I can fcarcely excufe him from tacking my journal to jefuitical fables, it feems Mr Hanway knows very little of me, although, he and his friends employed in the Perfian trade had in truth good reafon to have ufed me in a more honourable nourable manner, confidering the great trouble I took to do them all the fervice in my power, and fometimes not without danger to myfelf. For what ? for nothing, only for the love I bore my country, and fome of my countrymen whom I little knew. He ought to have confidered the difference there is between a man of honour, who hates a lie, and a Jefuit, a man whofe principles are fubverfive of fociety, and who flicks at nothing but truth. I wrote to Mr Hanway, and expoftulated with him about this affair ; he anfwered that he was forry he was fo far deceived, but that he would take a proper opportunity to redrefs this grievance : But he has not yet done it. I therefore beg pardon of my readers, for taking this method of ex-pofing the account given by Mr Hanway, and difcovering the reafon why it is impof-fible the account I give of this embafly, and that given by Hanway, can agree ; becaufe he is full of blunders, as many other parts of his writings are: Whereas, I do here fo-lemnly declare that I write nothing but truth, however imperfect my performance may, for want of time to correct it, be in other refpects. CHAP. CHAP. XXL Concerning Circajfia, and its prefent Capital . Kizlaar : Of the Inhabitants, their Religion, Cuftoms, and prefent Government, &c, CIRCASSIA, according to the accounts I have got, is, that the country lying between Afoph, the Palus Mceotis on the weft, the high hills of Caucafus inhabited by the Georgians and Dageftan Tartars on the fouth, the Cafpian fea on the eaft, and the defarts of Aftrachan through which we juft now palled, on the fouth, confine it. The weftern half of this country is under the protection of the Turks, the eaftern half under the protection of the Ruffians, and a part of the fouth eaft is claimed by the Perfians. Various authors have given very different accounts of the foil of this country. One writes that it is very rich, another that it is extremely poor : Thefe writers are both mif-taken, ibme parts of this country will yield to none that I know for riehnefs of foil, and other parts, as has already partly been taken notiee of, on the borders of Aftrachan defarts, do not produce grafs, and it is not impoffible that fuch poor land may be found in the very middle of this country : But I am of opinion, that if the wrorft of it was im- improved, as we do ours in Great Britain, it would turn out to account, but no husbandry is ufed here : The natives have land enough, and only make ufe of that which produceth plentifully, if the furface of the earth be but turned up. The Ruffians have built a city called Kizlaar about fixty verfts weft from the Cafpian fea, and when I was there, were finifhing a ftrong citadel of earth, in which a garrifon of 500 regular troops are kept, and a* bout two or three thoufand Coffacks. The Ruffians have alfo given liberty to the Coffacks to build towns on the banks of the river Terek ; this river runs from weft to eaft through a rich country, more than one hundred and fifty verfts long by the city Kizlaar, it produceth many fifli, particularly great quantities of excellent falmon ; and near its mouth, where it lofes itfelf in the Cafpian, there is plenty of fturgeon. The city Kizlaar is in latitude forty four degrees, and confequently the climate cannot be very bad ; becaufe it is well watered with rivers, is a plain level country, and the city is built almoft in the middle of what properly belongs to the ' ullians. The Circaffians are a comely, beautiful, well made people, both men and women ; they are generally of a large fize, and are very good foldiers ; their arms are bows, arrows and fcymitars, but they flioct well with a fingle a fingle ball out of rifled pieces; their prin* cipal people are only in poheilion of fire arms. Thofe under the Ruflian protection are governed by their own princes, the chief of whom is called Bekovitch. He is a major general of irregulars in the Ruflian army i But he never was ordered to leave Circaflia, where it is thought he can be of the greater! fervice to the empire* There are other Cir-caflian princes under the Ruflian govern* ment, quite independent of one another : But none fo much honoured as he is. Tho' the Circaffians honour their princes much, yet they cannot abfolutely command them to any piece of fervice, unlefs they are fo inclined themfelves; wherefore it is always ne-ceffary to get a majority on their fide, and the prince is obliged to divide all the fpoils, every one in the expedition having a right to a fliare, and if the prince at any time, gets prefents from the Emprefs, which they do frequently, eveiy one of his fubjecls expects either a part; if divifable, or fome-thing equivalent if otherways. They under Ruifia, are fo far fubjecl: to the Ruffians that they fwear to be fubjecl: to the general laws for the good of Ruifia and themfelves : But the Ruflians never offer to encroach on their religious affairs. They profefs the Mahometan religion, and have, like the Turks,a plurality of wives and as many concubines as they pleafe. I was told told that they have one very lingular cuf-tom, which is, when the Khan's principal lady is in labour, the firll Circaflian man who gets notice of it, placeth himfelf at the door of the harain, or houfe where the women are kept: For like the TurScs in every thing, in this alfo, they have houfes, though contiguous to, yet feparated from the principal houfe, for their women, where no man enters, except the hufband : When he has once taken his Hation, no other Circaflian dares to deprive him of it: When the woman is delivered, fome old fervant woman is fent to that gate to declare to the Circalfians that, the Khan's wife is delivered either of a fon or daughter, or both; if a fon, the child being richly drefled, is brought to the gate and delivered to the Circaflian, whole right it is by their law, he carries the infant to his houfe, provides a nurfe for him, and educates him as his own child, until he acquires the age of nine or ten years, then he is re-ftored to his parents, at which time, they have great rejoycings. The reafon they acl in this manner, is, that the child may be brought up hardily, and become a bugga-teer or hero ; which qualification is very neceflary among them, and without which he will be very little efleemed. By what I have wrote, you fee that they pay great regard to their chiefs, and honour ancient houfes much. A noble family will Ctq not not let their daughters go to the common people, or thole under the rank of their own family. I never heard that they have any other ceremony of marriage than a fim-ple contract between the parents or the chil-drens tutors, and then the young pair are permitted to vilit and fee one another in prefence of the parents : If, after the bridegroom has made two or three vifits, they are fatisfied with one another, the affair is concluded, and (lie is carried home to his houfe in a clofe painted waggon in company of her women who are to live with her. A very extraordinary affair happened at Kizlaar between Bekovitch and his eldeft fon before our arrival. Bekovitch wras the fon of the unfortunate Brigadeer Bekovitch, who in Peter the Great's time, was murdered by the Buchareans on the eafl fide of the Cafpian. Young Bekovitch was a youth of a very fmall fize, though his father was a remarkably well made big man. He got notice of a young princefs of exquifite beauty, and fprung from a refpectable ancient family; thither he went and declared that he intended to marry that lady, if her beauty was anfwerable to the reports given of her. The young Bekovitch not compleatly twenty five years of age, had all qualifications fit to intitle him to demand a daughter from any houfe in Circaflia. He was acknowledged by all the Circaflians to be a defcendant of one one of their illuftrious families; and he had already given many unexceptionable proofs of his bravery, both in regard to the Circalfians, Kalmucks, and others, who very much dreaded offending him. He therefore had no great difficulty to perfuade the parents to indulge him with an interview with this young lady : Upon whom he no fooner had call his eyes, than he was immediately reduced to the moft irredeemable llavery. He declared his paflion, and agreed to every thing the parents thought proper to demand. In Circaffia no other dowry is given with their daughters than a few fuits of rich cloaths, ornamented with jewels, and a few women : But the bridegroom is obliged to produce on the wedding-day fuch number of horfes, dromedaries, cows, &c, as was a-greed upon : If they have no fuch number of their own, they make incurfions upon their neighbours and carry off as many as they ftand in need of, or lofe their lives in the attempt. In all Circaffia, therefore, none was fo proper as the young Bekovitch to make an agreement of that kind: He did not much care what number they demanded, nothing feemed for him too hard, to become poffeffed of this confummate beauty ; he a-greed to every thing, and nothing now was wanting but his father's con fent? tO whom he forthwith repaired and implored it. Old Bekovitch whom I knew very well, faid that he he could have no objection to the family flie •was defcended from ; but that it would be Decenary for him to pay a vifit, and make a final agreement. The fon urged, and the father, prompted by the relation and follici-tation of his fon, made all hafte to put a conclufion to this affair. He finifhed it in^ deed fooner than was expected, but not a-greeable to his Ion ; for he married the young lady himfelf, and clandeftinely brought her to his own haram: When young Bekovitch was properly made acquainted with his father's villainous tranfaction, in the firft fally of paflion he fwore by Mahomet's head, that he would put his far ther to death, for fuch unparalleled treachery, the very firft opportunity he fliould have. After this, old Bekovitch durft not ftir out of Kizlaar, without being well-guarded, nor durft the young prince enter the city for fear of being made a prifoner by the Ruffians for his father's fecurity : Becaufe no Turk will break fuch an oath as what is made by Mahomet's head. In this ftate, things were between father and fon when we were in Kizlaar. The old prince was every day at the ambaffador's : He was a great lover of cards, and our gentlemen exercifcd his talents and purfe to fome pur-pofe : He was a relation of Prince Golitzin's, his mother being a lady out of that il-luftrious family. The ambaffador found it altogether altogether impoffible to bring about a recon^ eiliation, the oath was not to be neglected. The Ion was much more honoured by the CircalFians than the father. About the end of October this year, a body of Tartars made an inroad into Ruflian Circaffia, and carried off a great number of all kinds of cattle. They were fo hardy as to drive cattle from within five verfts of the city. Next day, the dragoons and Coffacks were fent out in quell of them ; but, after a pur fait of five or fix days, returned, quite fatigued, unfucccfsful. This could not fail to be extremely diftrefling both to the Coffacks and Circalfians, who had fuftained this lofs. At lafl: it was reported to young Bekovitch, who lived incamped with a few brave trufly followers in the defart. He no fooner was informed of it, than he fent a mef-fenger to Prince Golitzin for orders to be fent with his own men only, to endeavour to recover the loft cattle. The prince fent him the neceffary orders. Young Bekovitch took his meafures fo well, that, unperceiv-ed, he pafled through Turkifh Circaffia, and found the cattle in Kuban Tartary, a little farther weft than Afoph. He deftroyed many of the Kuban habitations, put all the thieves who happened to fall in his way to the fword, and returned with three times the number of cattle loft, to the Ruffian Circaflians. When he was within ieven verfts of Kizlaar, he fent fent a report of this action, and defired that whoever had Jolt their cattle fhould come there and receive them ; what number remained, was his own property. The good old Prince Golitzin was fo well pleafed with this heroic action, that he wrote a very pref-fing letter to the young hero, begging that he would pay him a vifit, affuring him that his perfon fliould be in all fafety, and that he fliould have liberty to return whenever he pleafed : At the fame time, he fent notice to his father to keep within his own houfe, and fent a fufficient guard to protect him from any attempts of his fon. The young bater arrived, attended by twenty horfemen well mounted and compleatly armed, every one of them having under their garment a coat of mail, which is nothing elfe than a coat of fteel rings, which inclofeth their body and reacheth down to the half of the thigh ; it has two arms reaching to the elbows, and it has a piece for covering the head, fomething like the capuchines hood. He lighted from his horfe, and with four of his followers came flraight to the good prince, who could not help fliedding tears of joy to fee his brave kinfman. After mutual compliments were over, the prince hinted at a reconciliation with his father, but flopped very foon, as the hero could not hear it, and his paffions had almofl tranfported him. The prince foon made him fenfible that he intended intended him no harm, and therefore begged he would drop the affair; declaring that he never would concern himfelf more about it: But that he would give an account to the Emprefs of this gallant action he had jult now performed, and of his great vigilance at all times to protect Circaflia ; and that he would beg of her Majefty that flie would be pleafed to appoint him a place of fecu-rity, where he could live with his brave followers, without any fear of being maltreated either by the Ruflian commanders or others. The young hero returned hearty thanks for the prince's good inclinations to him, and faid that he did not doubt of the fuccefs of his reprefentations, adding that he had been follicited by the Turkifh Circaflians to live amongft them, but that as yet he had lent a deaf ear to their follicitations, faying that he heartily loved his own people, and could not think ever to be an enemy to them. He faid that he was made well acquainted with the ways his father had taken to pre-poffefs the court of St Peterfburgh with a notion of his undutifulnefs, and want of refpect to the Ruffian government ; but laid be, all thefe his remonftrances are equally falfe as he is bale. He was well informed that traps and fnares had been laid by his father and the commandant, who, he faid, was void of all honour, to get him apprehended; But he added they might glory, and and might fecure dead Bekovitch ; but he fliould hold them at defiance to take him living. The prince begged that he would partake of dinner, which the other declined to do. As he had formerly been my patient in Aftrachan, he fpoke to me, and when he had taken a fingle glafs of arrack or corn brandy, touched his cap with his hand, as a compliment to the prince, retired, mounted, and rode off at full fpeed amiclft the acclamations and praifes of thouiands of the citizens for the very lingular fervice he had juft done them. The prince recommended him fo effectually ■ at court, that he had prefents fent him from the Emprels ; was received into her Majefly's favour, and had her protection granted in the moft ample manner; but was forbidden to come within four or five verfts of Kizlaar, or any other place where his father fliould refide. One evening as MajorBerezin and I were returning from hunting, palling by Prince Bekovitch's haram, we faw his daughter, a lady of about fixteen years of age, walking in a garden. She faw not us, which gave us an opportunity of feeing one of the beau-tifulleft of the whole creation: The garden was palifacloed with fmall, but long fir-ftakes clofely fet together; however, we got a long view of this perfection of beauty, without her knowledge. In the evening we told the ambaffador, who, though old, admired beauties, ties, and as Che was a relation of the Golit-zins, obtained liberty from her father to pay her a vilit; none were prefent but the Major and me: She was very richly drefled; at this interview fhe prefented a glafs of arrack to the prince, and after a fhort time retired. This young lady might have had her equals; but it was the opinion of us all that none could furpafs her in beauty. The Circaflians wear toga or long gowns: Their hair is cut fhort, fo that at a diftance, when uncovered, one would be apt to think that they wore fmall caps ; they are all fhaved, except their whifkers. When they are mounted on horfeback, they have a labre fixed to the faddle under their left thigh, and another hanging at their left fide. This they do, left one ftiould happen to be broken in an engagement. C H A P. XXIL A continuation of what happened at Kizlaar\£?c. t3 EFORE I proceed to take notice of what a3 happened whilft we fojourned here, I imagine a fhort defcription of this city may not be difagreeable to the reader. Kizlaar, as was faid, is fituated on the northern banks of the river Terek; it is a new city, and conlequently not compleated; it may contain R r fix fix or feven thoufand inhabitants, befides the garrifon, and other people belonging to the army, confining of Ruffians, Coffacks, and the natives of the country: The ftreets are not paved, and conlequently very deep and dirty ; the houfes mean, and very ill built of timber : In lhort, it is a poor dirty city, the ftreets are fo very deep in rainy weather, that horles have ftuck fall in the mud : There are only two ihopkeepers here. Lately was built upon the north-weft end of the town, a ior-tirication or citadel of earth, in form of a pe itagon, fiirrounded with a very deep and bioad ditch; palifadoed round about; and to the weft of that are calarms for the garrifon, which contifts of five hundred men trom the garrifon of Aftrachan; befides which, commonly three or four regiments of regttlar tioops are cantoned here; and three, four, or five thoufand Coffacks, not inhabitants of the country, and fome Circaflians, commander >} their own chief Bekovitch. J he Rullians formerly built a fortification neai the lea, which they called Sulack; but, it being very unhealthy, they deferted it, and caufed the inhabitants retire to this place. There are eight or nine Coffack villages very neat, fituated weft from Kizlaar, upon the banks of the Terek. Thefe Coffacks are called Grebinfki Coflachi: They inhabit a very rich country, abounding with every thing which nature can produce. Kizlaar is diftant ftant from the northernmoft part of Cauca* fus, as 1 was informed, about one hunched and twenty verfts. Our engineer, at ti a-fet, when we could have a view of thefe hills in a clear atmofphere, round, with his theodolite,that they were elevated at that dilla :e above the level of Kizlaar two degrees and one half. The people in Kizlaar carry on a good trade with the Perlians for a root which grows naturally here, fit lor dying a beautii ful red colour; being the winter ieafon I faw none of it, but imagined that it was rubia tincJorum: Very many reeds grow here ; the fineft capers in the world, and a great variety of very ufeful herbs: Vines grow wild in the woods ; the grapes are fmall,but they produce good wine,and it they were cultivated,would be of great advantage to the proprietor. They have a lingular way of catching game here, fuch as wild fwine, of which there are Very large flocks, wolves, and foxes : They: dig holes nine feet deep, narrow at the top, and broad at the bottom ; in the middle of which they drive a flake, which projects three or four feet above the furface of the earth ; Upon the upper end of this ftake is fixed a cart-wheel moveable; upon this wheel, in the evening, they make fell a pig, duck, or hen, and cover over the mouth of the pit with branches of trees, upon which they fcatter cut grafs, or fuch like fluff: When any of thefe creatures pafting by, hear the prifoner, 3i6 V O Y A G S and they run towards the hole-mouth, where they fall in ; nor can they get out. One day my pointer fell into one of thefe covered holes, from which, with difficulty, I got relieved. They ride out in great numbers when they intend to hunt the hare; I once went with them when we were thirty-eight horfemen, of which number eight men went with many hounds before the reft, who formed a great circle, making much noife, fo that no hares could ly; and in this manner they would ride through twenty or thirty verfts; and having very many hounds, it might be thought almoft impoffible that a hare could efcape them,yet I faw fome make their efcape. This country produceth as great variety of game as Aftrachan, but a far greater number of pheafants, of which I killed many. I was told, that at the diftance of about eighty verfts weft, there was a very remarkable well of hot water, and fome others. I begged, and obtained leave of the prince to vifit thefe natural curiofities, efpecially as it was faid, that Peter the Great built an hofpital there for the cure of fcorbutic patients. In my way to the wells I pafled through the following towns and villages, in the fame order as I have wrote them, beginning at Kizlaar, from eaft to the weft Barazdinfka-ja, Dubofskaja, Kargalinfkaja, Kurdjukoff, Staro Gladkoi, Nova Gladkoi, Sedrin, Tfher-ffonoi, Bragcrtfkoi; the laft of thefe villages is is not under the Ruffian protection. The Ruflian villages are all lituated on the north-fide of the Terek river, but Bragutfkoi is on the fouth-fide. The inhabitants of thefe villages are chiefly Coffacks, and are reckoned more warlike than the Dons Coffacks, though I faw little appearance of it; but they fhoot a fingle bullet with great exactnefs, and will kill a wild boar, or any other creature, at a very great diftance: They told me, that their courage is much kept under by great oppreilion from the commandant of Kizlaar, their governor, who did not bear a good name. I defired this commandant for a pafs-port, which he not only granted, but did not ordain me to pay any money for the trouble. 1 defired to know from the Coflacks, What was the reafon that they were obliged to find horfes for paffengers (though in her Majelty's fervice) without payment, as they do through all Ruflia? They anfwered, That that was but a trifle to what they were other-ways burdened with; that no officer paid for horfes; and added, that they were the moft miferable flaves belonging to the Ruffian empire ; becaufe they were impotent, poor, and at too great a diftance from court, and had none to reprefent their grievances. Our dragoons, and their horfes, were cantoned in thefe villages. I perfuaded three of the officers, with a few of their men, to go with me to the wells, as they had been there formerly, and and as die wells were not in the Ruffian dominions. The lad mentioned village i§ ii-tuated on the banks of the feiek, where there were no other boats but canoes,by which we reached the other fide, and pa (fed the independent Circattian village called Bragutfkoi, two miles fouth from the river, and lix miles to the wells, to which we foon arrived on the north lide of the hill, where we left my waggon and horfes, and waited up the hill on foot about forty fathoms perpendic ihr height. This well vomited up boiling hot water,which fmelied ftrongly of naphtha, into a balbn a-bout twelve feet in diameter, and three feet deep, near which on the welt lide were feven fmaller lprings of the fame kind of water; and on the eaft lide, a-bout fix feet diftance from the large balbn, was an inconsiderable fpring of water extremely four, in fo much that it was very troublefome to keep it a fhort time in my mouth. Being arfaid of the wild Tartars we could make no experiments. Here were four or five fmall round holes quite dry; a-bout the fides of which were fome beautiful white falts like liars: I put fome of it in my mouth, which inftantly difFolved, and left a very agreeable cold pungent fenfation behind; it appeared to be a very penetrating natural nitre. I had brought a hen with me for my dinner: I caufed tie, her, having taken out the guts, to the end of a long pole, and and plunge her into the middle of the wclh W 1 . hey drew her out,the feathers came eafily off; they then plunged her into the ba-fon a fecond time, and in nine minutes, by my watch, (lie was boiled fo well that I made my dinner of her. Boiling hot-water, I imagine, could not have done it fo loon, and therefore luppofe it was done by the great penetrability of the whit, naphtha, with which this water was fuurated, on which account the flefh of the fowl was not agreeable. A declining plain was ftretched from the well northward, about thirty paces long,and half as broad. The water runs in a terpentine ftream through the middle of this plain, and th en was thrown over broken rocks at leaft thirty fathoms high, down amongft rocks : On the bottom of the ftream, and alfo on the rocks where the water touched, there grew a fat fubftance, putting ont fibres as fmall as the fineft hair, exhibiting all forts of mining colours, very pleafant to look upon. This ftream was fo coniiderable, that, at the diftance of two verfts, without the help of a dam, it turned the wheel of a corn-mill ; and you could obierve it fmoaking all the way to the river Terek, whofe ftreams it joined, at the diftance of eight verlts from its fource: There were feveral holes made in tr>e plain, with fmall paffages cut from the principal ftream to let in water; in wThich, when cold enough, valetudinarians ufed to bathe: bathe. My companions let in fome water into one of them when we arrived, and we all bathed in it: Here was a conftant verdure, and the daily was continually in flower. We experienced that it was extremely cold in our way to this place; but though a hard froft, in the latter end of December, and a north wind, yet the boiling hot itreams> ariilng from the well, and exhaling from the fall o-ver the rocks, rendered this place fo very warm, that I could have lived there, at that time of the year, naked. W7e went about one mile well on the fide of the fame hill, to fee feven black thick naphtha wells, which were not far dillant from one another; they fpewed out of the fide of the hill great quantities of a black, thick, fat naphtha, very funking; the country people ufe it for lamps, and anointing their cartwheels. I took up fix bottles of hot water, in doing which two were broken by the heat, and two of the four water, in order to make experiments at my return, and returned by the fame way to Kizlaar. I met with nothing on my return worth the reader's notice, except that I paffed by, in one place, fourteen wolves altogether, following proud bitches. I would have fired upon them, but the Coffacks faid, that it might prove dangerous, for fear that the firing might provoke them to attack us. They were all lying as we paffed by. At At Kizlaar I was furprifed to find, that when I had drawn the corks of the naphtha water, which fmelled fo ftrong at the well, the water was quite fweet; nor did it differ from other pure water. Into a glafs of this Water I dropped 01. Tart, per deliq, it funk inftantly to the bottom of the glafs, where it lay like globules of quick filver, without incorporating with the water: When they were fliaken together, the water was turned to a blueifh colour, and tafted refinous. I dropped into one ounce of this water ten drops of 01. Sulpb. per campan. This produced no change of colour in the water, no commotion nor fermentation ; neither could I ob-ferve any fediment. After they had remained mixed fome time, I put into one ounce of acid water ten drops of 01. Sulpb. per campan. but obferved no other change than that it turned the water of a fair blue colour. I put into the fame quantity of four water fifteen guts of 01. Tart, per deliq. the mixture turned thicker and cloudy, after it had ftood fome time, without exhibiting any other change. I fhakeel the mixture; this turned it all thick ; but after Handing, it formed fome clouds ; but before thefe clouds were formed, there was a fcum on the top of the water, and, in the time of three or four minutes,it let tail a brown fediment. At my return to Kizlaar, orders were pu-blifhcd to get ready to march in all hafte, S f becaufe becaufe a courier brought word that twelve thoufand Perfians were waiting our arrival upon the borders, at no great diftance. This effectually put a flop to any other experiment. CHAP. XIX. Our March to Derbent, &cc. THE reader, I hope, will excufe my mentioning, that I met with in this place an old acquaintance, Major de Villanoff, a French gentleman, brother to Marquis de Villanoff. He was obliged to fly his native country on account of a duel he had fought, in which he killed his antagonift. He married in Ruflia, and had two very fine children. When we arrived in Kizlaar, it was generally believed that we would be obliged to ftay there during the winter feafon, wherefore I bought up hay and oats for fix horfes; but getting fo fudden orders, I had no need of them. To expofe them to fale would have been trifling ; I therefore made a prefent of them to my friend Villanoff, who, upon this occafion, told me, that, as I defpi-fed any who would put up prayers to the faints for my profperity, he would caufe each of his horfes put up a candle before the Virgin Mary, becaufe, faid he, they are the only only profiters by your leaving this place. I never heard of him after this. Before I leave Circallia, I mull take notice, that they are truly a well formed, comely people. Their women are univerfally very beautiful, and few, if any, are marked with the fmall pox. They do not inoculate as We do, but they infect their children in the following manner, and they fay without danger: They lend a prefent (without which, fuperftition makes them believe, that it would have no effect) to the difeafed child, who, at the height of the difeafe, permits them to tie under his arm-pit a fmall bit of cotton fewed in a piece of cotton-cloth, on the oppofite fide of which, to that touching the emunctories, is fixed a piece of lead. This apparatus remains fixed to the arm-pit of the fick child, till the pox begin to fall off and dry, viz. three or four days ; then it is carried in fome clofs veffel flraight to the child who is defigned to be infected, and made fall in the fame manner to its arm-pit,where it remains three or four days, and generally .infects the patient. I never faw it performed, but they all agreed that this was their method, nor do they know how long they have had it. Upon the 4th of January 1747, we march-* ed from Kizlaar, the prince having had the fimie honours paid him, which were done him at his arrival, We were efcorted by our own own dragoons and three hundred Coffacks. We paffed the river Terek on a timber float, and after that marched through a marfhy ground, covered over with fnow, which the wheel-carriages and horfes feet, with the heat of the day, rendered almoft impallible. We travelled fouthward, thro' woods and reeds, about fifteen verfts, and encamped on the fouth-eafl fide of the fmall river Cargine, where the Ruffians kept a guard of foldiers. On the 5th we ftruck our tents, and inarched fouth twenty-five verfts farther, and encamped on a plain covered all over with fnow, called Suchoi Oxai. On the 6th, at four o'clock in the morning, we marched from thence fouthwards, paffed the river Oxai on ice, which was only four days frozen, and encamped on the fouth fide of it. Having dined, we marched at two o'clock afternoon, fouthward, travelled through a plain country, and at feven o'clock at night we arrived, very cold, in a large Tartarian or Circaflian village, called Andre-ofske Derevna, confifting of between three and four hundred houfes. The prince of this village is called Alifh, and is under the protection of Ruifia. He came four verfts out of his capital to pay his refpects to the prince, and convoyed him to his own houfe. We entered into a great hall, where was a good fire of wood. Alifli was drunk, and when the prince demanded to know the caule of it, it, he faid, that he was informed that morning, that the prince would honour his houfe with his prefence ; that he was fo glad of this intended honour, that he caroufed with fome of his chiefs through the whole day. He laid that no angel would have been welcom-er, and begged that he would be a friend to him. His cap being in his hand, and his head being clofe fhaved, difcovered the fears of a great many wounds which he had received. The prince enquired, How he came by thefe marks ? He anfwered, that when he was younger, he was extremely fond of di-verlion ; he faid, that he had fome reafon to think that he was one of the moft complete baters in all Circaffia ; he faid, that he met with much oppofition, but generally gained his point: He had one of the beft breed of horles in the whole country, produced from thofe he had ftolen from the borders of Turkey and Georgia ; that, although he now is old, he loves the game ; and that his young men are frequently bringing in fome ; but he complained loudly of the Perfians who came for us ; he faid, that they had already cut off the heads of three or four of his men ; and that they had lix, which, he heard, would all meet with the fame fate, if his excellency did not prevent it. Upon this the prince fent off a meflenger to require the prifoners, and demand the reafon why the fardar or general of the Perfians affumed a privilege of of putting to death any fubjecl: belonging to the Ruffian empire ; protefting, that if he heard of any fuch barbarity after this, he would not perhaps proceed on his intended embaffy, and that if he did, he would not fail to reprefent the fardar's inhumanity and pre-fumption to the Shach. Next morning, the prifoners were returned alive, and an officer of diftindtion fent to beg that the prince would forgive what he had unknowingly been obliged to do ; becaufe all thieves, which he feized, faid they were Ruflian fubjecls, fome of whom, he was certain, were not under the protection of Ruifia. He faid, that they had already not only carried off many of his belt horfes, but lay lurking in the woods, and kill without mercy, any fmall party of men who happen to go but a fhort way from his camp. He concluded by fuggefling, that there would be little fecurity either for his Perfians or Ruffians, unlefs the ambaffador would pleafe carry the perfon of their Khan with him, as fure-ty for their good behaviour. The prince told Alifh what the Perfians juflly enough complained of; which Alifh faid might be true, but. added, that it was not in his power to put a flop to it altogether ; and added, that he wifhed they might not. Heal fbmewhat from us in the night-time. Upon this the prince caufed the trumpets to found through the town, and warn all the inhabitants to keep within doors, declaring, that if any of the the Centinels faw any of them going near where our horfes or baggage were kept, they would fire upon them, and that if a horfe was loft, a fevere punifliment w ould follow ; befides, that he would infill upon their delivering two of their beft horfes for every one of ours. Notwithstanding which, they ftole a piftol from one of our officers, although it was under the pillow upon which he was fleeping, and feveral other fmall things. Next morning, the prince defired that Alifh wrould convoy him over the borders ; and in this manner he carried him even to the walls of Derbent; and Alifh, not knowing that he was a prifoner, imagined that he was very much honoured by the notice the prince took of him. Next morning, being the 7th of January, We marched down the river about three Verfts to a ford, and left this neft of thieves. We paffed this deep rapid river, called A-grachan. The palfage was both tedious and dangerous. It is about three hundred paces broad, and about noon, when the fun ftiines both fummer and winter, when the weather is warm, the river, as all thefe we paffed thro* *u our way to Derbent do, begins to fwell, and continues fwelling till after fun-fet, by the melting of the fnow upon the high country. We encamped on the fouth banks of this river, upon a fmall plain. Here grows a certain thorn, of which beautiful walking ftaves flaves are made ; when the bark is taken off, it is wonderfully variegated, and refembles a piece of marble, but it is very heavy : From this place, at the diftance of twenty verfts, flood the Ruffian Caftie called Sulack. On the 8th clay, we departed from this place at the dawning of the day, and proceeded fouth through a wood of oaks, and vines creeping on them, whereon grapes grew, from which the Ruffians make very good wine. We travelled only eight or nine Verfts, till we arrived at the river Coftica, and encamped on the northern banks of it for the night. This is the river which forms the boundary between the Ruffians and Perfians. The governor of Derbent was fent, with forty or fifty followers, all armed, to pay their refpects to the prince : They convoyed him to his tents, and had the honour to drink'a difh of coffee in the ambaffador*s prefence. Our dragoons now marched in rank, with their broad fwords in their hands. We could not pafs Coftica this evening, the water being too rapid and deep. On the morning of the oth, we palled Coftica, where, had it not been for Captain Beunhow, I had been drowned. The ftream was fo rapid, that it carried down my machine and the two poor horfes that drew it; but the captain refcued me from this danger. Having all gained the other fide of the river, the prince was received very honourably by all the Perfian chiefs who commanded thefe troops, and conducted to his own tents a-bout two verfts diftant, fouth from the ford, nearer thefe high mountains, . The road through which we palled was lined on both lides with feveral thou-fancls of Perlian horfe under arms ; and when the prince drew near to his tents, they con* tinued, with great exactnefs, a running fire for a long time. When he entered his tent, a deputation was fent, with great refpect, to know if his highnefs would be pleafed to permit the chiefs of the army, with their fardar, flamed Ami Buflan Khan, at their head, to pay their compliments to him. He invited them kindly, and gave orders, that at our main guard, the fardar fhould be received with military honours due to a general in chief, by mulic, drums, and kettle-drums. The main guard was placed before a long rich tent as an antichamber, through which the fardar was to pats; between that tent and the one the prince was in, was a fpace, where forty men were drawn up under arms, which was covered on the lides with painted fail-cloth, fo that none from without could fee the men thus drawn up. with a very youth of great flature, a lieutenant of dragoon grenadiers, at their head. When the Perfian chiefs came up where the ftandard of Ruifia was, the honours were paid to them exactly. The T t Perfian. Perfian horfes, not having been trained up in this way, were frightened ; but their riders kept their feats lb well, that not one ot them fell. The fardar was with his company convoyed through the firft tent into the before mentioned lpace, where the officer and foldiers paid him their compliments with their arms: The fardar flopt Ihort, probably not undcrf landing tuch European compliments, and poflibly fufpecting treachery, but he very foon recovered himfelf, and, without hefitation, proceeded into the tent where the prince was. He laid his right hand, I think, upon his heart, and gave a nod to the officer as he palled by. The ambaflador, drefled in a fuk of rich filk with gold, was fitting at the upper end of a very long table (at which we ufed to dine daily) in a great chair, mounted with, cut velvet, and richly fet out with gold-lace and fringes, with his hat upon his head. The table was covered with fuperfine fcarlet Englifli cloth, richly bordered with fringes of gold. When the fardar appeared at the foot of the table, he placed his hand on his breafl, Hooped, and gave a nod with his head. The other generals, on each fide of him, did the fame. Our fecretary, who was Handing at the prince's right hand, by the prince's direction, defired the fardar to take his chair, and direct the general officers who attended him to take theirs, as he thought proper. The fardar fardar advanced flowly, and took his chair on the prince's left hand, at the diftance however of three feet at ieaft from him, farther down the table, and the o-ther ftill at a farther diftance. The num-. ber who attended at this time was nine, a-mong whom was a young man who fat below all the rell: Pie was an Indian chief, who Was kept as an hoftage ; however, he commanded about four thoufand of his own men. We (food uncovered, though exceffively cold, round the perfon of our ambaflador, dreifed in our fecond beft cloaths. The pages upon this occafion, made no unbecoming appearance ; they were all drefled in fuperfine fcarlet, richly fet oif with gold-lace; and the prince's livery fervants, who brought coffee, took care of the candles, and performed the like fervices, were very fplendid. The Perfian chiefs were differently drefled, in brocades, lilks, and cloths of gold, wjkh rich faflies about their middle, in which was ftuck a kingjall or durk, with a handle curi^ oufty wrought with gold and fet with precious fto nes, as was the ftieath ; befides wk cli, e-very man had his fabre ; their handles Were ornamented in the fame manner. Thefe Perfians do not wear turbans, but high caps, made either of cloth or brocade ; they taper from the head to the top, ending in four fharp comers. They fiuTOtind that parr. part of the cap which immediately inclofeth the head, with very rich fafhes made of filk and gold. The tent where this firff audience was given, was between thirty and forty feet long, and proportionably broad, lined on the in-iide throughout with rich Periian filks. The Perfian followers rufhed into the tent in fuch numbers, that they bore hard upon us, and rendered it difficult for the ambaflaclor's fervants to go about their bulinefs, of which our xnarlhal, with a loud voice, ordered the fecretary to complain to the fardar, who, with one word, foon freed us of this troublefome company, nor was any fervant ever admitted after this, except a very few neceftary ones. Compliments were profufely made to the prince; he was promifed every thing, and much more than he defired; all which was extremely ill performed, as the fequel will fliew. After they had talked over their prefent affairs, the prince asked them, If they did not chufe a difh of coffee ? To which they affenied, with a nod. He then defired them, if they pleafed, to fmoke the calli-an. The fardar, in the name of the reft, returned thanks, faying, that it was an honour they little expected to be indulged with in his prefence ; and that they fmoked their callian when they drank coffee ; but never durft do that in his prefence of their fupe- riors riors unlefs they were permitted. Every one had his calhan brought in ; and indeed they thoroughly tumigated this large tent. Co Ve was prepared, both in the Ruliian and Perfian manner. The Perlians prepare their co fee in this manner : They burn the beans, as we do, but reduce them to an impalpa >le powder ; ib that when boiled, it is near as thick as hafty pudding. They take only one cup at a time, without fugar'; btu this they do frequently through the day ; and they affirm, which I believe true, that it quenches third better than any thing elfe ; raifes the fpirits, and does not cloy the ftomach. I have tried it ; and, though it is not very a-greeable, thought it had that effect upon me. At the end of this vifit the fardar prefled the prince much, that he would be pleafed to honour them, by taking a collation in King Solomon's tent, which Nadir Shach, their great King, had ordered them to bring for that purpofe. The prince returned thanks for their intended kindnefs ; but added, that as he reprefented the perfon of toe Emprefs, he was determined to pay no vifits until he had delivered his credentials into the Shach's hands ; and therefore, without farther ceremony, intreated the fardar, « he defigned to live in friendlhip with him, to give him no more trouble about fuch affairs. Thus, this tedious ceremony end* to all our fatisfacYions. Soon after their their departure, many prefents of different Perfian wines, fruits, and a variety of confections, were fent to the ambaflador. The ambaffador now gave directions how to fet up our tents continually after this. He called for the plan which the marfhai had made out; he ordered fome changes, viz, that the two troops of dragoons Ihould have their tents placed opposite ^o oiie another, with the (tandard and main guard in the middle : That his gentlemens tents Ihould be placed at a reafonable diftance, upon each fide of his fieepiug tent, made of fek, in form of a bee-hive : That Dr Lerch and his mate Ihould be at no great diftance from the hofpital tent. He ordered his own tent to be placed at the end of the dragoons, exactly in the middle, with its entry opening into the area between the dragoons, as into a ftrect, My tent of felt, in form of a beehive, was behind his, that in the night-time I might be near his perfon. The great kitchen tent was placed behind mine, and the two great baggage tents, with that in which we dined, behind it, where poflible, near fome inacceflible place. The Coffacks and Tartars furrounded us. The Perfian main army lay between us and the hills, but detached numbers furrounded us on all fides; and we encamped in this order every night. After fun-fet the Perfians played their horrid mufic, con lifting of very long trumpets, making making a noife to be heard at a great diftance, and afterwards fet their night watches, by firing off a few fmall cannon. They fired their cannon in the morning, and played their mufic daily, but they fired their muf-qucrts through the whole night. The firft night feveral fhot went through our tents ; a complaint of which being made next morning, a flop was put to it. The Perfians were hated by all the inhabitants of the hills, who in the night-time frequently made attacks upon the Perfian camp, cutting all to pieces who happened to fall in their way, and carrying off all the horfes they could meet with. Next day was taken up by the Perfians in packing up our baggage, fit for portage, on the backs of camels. From this place all the Ruffian and Coftack carts were returned home. We had no other wheel machines than the prince's coach, and two or three fleeping or travelling waggons. Seven of our Coffacks went out to cut down fome wood for firing in a neighboiu> ing wood. One fat on horfeback, to take care that no enemy came near, whilft the reft were gathering timber. This poor man ^vas (hot with a finglc bullet; it entered in at the fcrobiculus cordis, and lodged in a rib, which it broke immediately below the under angle of the bale of the fcapida* He died the day following, in great agonies. He was very follicitous to have his body buried in Cir-\ caflia, caftia, amongft his relations. This the prince ordered to be done. On the lame day the Perfians feized fix Highlanders, called Tavelltnes, troin whom they foon cut the heads. The Perfians fent to the prince a report of this ; and begged, that as they were ftraitened tor provifions, and as they were affured the Tavellines were intending to give them battle, he would con-defcend to proceed on his journey next day; telling him, that Nadir Shach had fent them to be his fervants, and conduct his excellency fafe, whole arrival he daily wilhed for, ire. The Perfians having got every thing in readinefs, we marched on the eleventh, iz miles farther north-caft, by the north fide of the high mountains of Caucafus, called Pif-chancke, and pitched our ttnts on a plain ground in the evening. Our own horfes were all led, and we rode upon Periian hor*-fes, only the dragoons rode on their own horfes, and we and our horfes were furnifiV ed with every thing needful for man and beaft, according to the eaftern way. On the nth day we marched from this a-bout nine o'clock A. M. and travelled thro' a tolerable plain road, having fome lakes on our left hand, and the high mountains on our right. We only travelled about twenty-five verfts, as many camels fell down, not able to proceed through hunger and fatigue ; wherefore wherefore they either cut their throats, or the tendons of their hindermoft legs, to clifable them from going, that they might not fall into the hands of their enemies, and be ufeful to them. This night we encamped on a hollow ground, covered on all lides by high banks, through which run a muddy ftream, called Belajareka. About ten A. M. we proceeded on our journey ; but the roads, for eight or ten verfts, were extremely deep, being tough clay. We palled by much arable land, both yefterday and this day. After this the roads turned better; and we continued our journey by the north-eaft lide of the high mountain called Tegu, leparated from all the reft of Caucafus by a deep valley, and encamped on the eaft lide of it, at the diftance of about three miles from the Cafpian, Sea and about three quarters of a mile from the .toot of the mountain, on a very pleafant plain. Between us and the mountain were many vine and other fruit-gardens, which the Perfians, in lefs than two hours, cut down to the ground, leaving no remains of timber for fire-wood to us. There was now no growing timber near us : Such barbarous behaviour could not fail fenfibly to irritate, to the greateft degree, the paftions of thefe brave highlanders, to whom the vines belonged, who in the night-time fell on their camp, and carried off fifteen men, and fome horfes* U u Tegu Tegu hill at a diftance, where we could have a right view of it, appeared on the top like a circular table, inclining to the eaft. Its top, we judged, may mealtire about twenty Englifli miles in circumference. It is iiir-rounded by very high rocks quite round, many fathoms deep, as far as we could fee, which rendered it quite impregnable, except at one place near a large village, fituated at the foot of this rock far up the hill. This palfage to the top of the mountain we difcovered by the help of a good telefcope. The day after we arrived, dreading no danger, I begged that our major would give me an efcort of fix dragoons, that I might take a view of the top of the hill. The major took time to confider of it, but privately told the prince. Upon which, by the prince's authority, orders were iffued out-forbidding any perfon belonging to the embaf-fy to go above fixty paces from the camp. This put a flop to my curiofity. Here are an infinite number of monuments of the dead, many large burial places, and the veftiges of many gardens, which makes me believe, that this place has formerly been very populous. We were told, that it had been the refidence of a potent prince; but as all thefe people, time out of mind, live without any ceconomy, by plunder and rapine, fo it is no wonder that at prefent they they are fo miferably reduced. We could difcover the veftiges of fome former city, ftretching far up the fide of the hill. As we came to the place where we encamped, the natives fold to fome of our men two great loaves of bread for an ufelefs flint ftone, money not being valued here, but by the weight, purity, and value of the metal. The Perfian chiefs affured us, when we were on the borders, that large ft ores of provifions were kept for us here; but, when we arrived, there was no fuch thing ; which was the reafon that the prince would proceed no farther till we had received provifions for fome days; becaufe he could give no credit to what they faid. There were three villages in our view, upon the eaft fide of the hill, between us and the precipice formerly taken notice of, not three miles diftant from one another. We were told, that they had carried on war amongft themfelves for one year before we arrived : That the two fmaller villages joined againft the great one ; fo that it was dangerous for men to walk out of them. It is faid, that Peter the Great loft about three tooufand men at the foot of this hill. They wear coats of mail under their upper garment. They are a bold well-made people, aod fhoot out of rifled pieces very dextc-I'oufty, and have fine fcymetars, all of their own making. They They are ruled by one of their own people, apoointed governor by Nadir Shach. Though they are under the Perfian yoke, yet it is only fo long as a ftrong body of Per-lians are in diis country. On the fourteenth, in the evening, having got fome provifions, the Perfians marched off, and left with us but a few of their men. They would have had the ambaffador to follow ; but he would not move, though they faid, that the highlanders would attack us in the night time, if we remained there. The prince, in his anfwer, faid, that he was afraid of nothing but their lies : That he wanted already two days provifions, and would not go farther unlcfs that was paid up; and alfo provifions for five days before it became due ; becaufe, he faid, he had fome reafon to believe they intended to ftarve him and his men. Next morning the fardar, being afraid that we would return, as our ambaflador had threatened, came to the prince, begged pardon , and piomife-d every thing ; and at laft we fet out on the 15th, and palled over many low ftony hills, and by many burial places, where many hundred ftones were fet on end at the heads of the dead, adorned with hie-roglyphicks, to declare what they were, when alive ; e. g. if a foldier, a quiver and arrows, bow and fabre, were cut out on the ftone ; and fo of the reft. We pitched our tents tents on the high banks of the fmall ftony river Manaffe. Not far from Buinack there was a village ; thither the prince fent and bought fome pro-viiions ; and we were told, that the Perfians having been made acquainted with it, ftrangled their chief. Alter this the prince could not fee, without very vifible marks of anger, the Perfian fardar. On the i 6th we fet out, and paffed the rapid ftony little river Manaffe, diftant about 25 verfts from Targu ; we paffed alfo many flony hills, and deep valleys, which made our journey very tedious ; and at two o'clock, P. M. we encamped on a plain, having the high green hills on our right hand, and the fea on our left, diftant about three verfts. The hills were fcarcely a verft from us ; and it is incredible how beautiful they were, con-fid ering the feafon : They refembled a green dyke, whofe fummits we could not fee for clouds, quite even, near perpendicular, ftretching from north fouthwards, having, as it were, formed one of the fweeteft plains e~ ver I beheld, four miles broad between the hihs and fea, and fo far from the place where we encamped fouthward, that the keeneft eye could not fee the end of it. On this day's journey we faw many horfe-men at a diftance on the hills, efpecially after we croffed Manaffe. A fhort way from the the road, we difcovered the ruins of a fort built by Peter the Great, called Buinack. This clay, having travelled forty-five verfts, we refolved to lodge here the enfuing night. At a fmall diftance from our camp was a heap of ftones, faid to be made by Peter the Great; and my worthy friend Mr Bell of Antermony, has lately affured me, that he remembers it well. He was in the Ruffian army when Peter marched through this plain ; and at this place he was very unexpectedly attacked by many thoufands of the inhabitants of the hills, whom he foon dif-perfed, after having killed many of them ; and having gained a remarkable victory, Peter ordered every man in the army to throw a ftone on that place. Mr Bell lays, that many carried three or four ; and indeed fo. it appears ; becaufe Peter the Great's army never could have raifed fuch a heap, by one man's contributing only one ftone. On the 17th we fet out, and travelled four verfts, over low grounds, not quite even, and twenty verfts farther over a plain like a bowling-green, having the fea on our left, and the high mountains on our right hand. In one part of this plain we were again defired not to let our horfes feed, becaufe of a poifonous herb ; but we faw none of it. A little farther on we faw an old camp of the then Shach, when he carried his arms againft Prince Ufmei ; and from the top of a hill a- bout bout twenty verfts from our laft camp, we faw the camp where Ufmei cut off fifteen thoufand of the Perfians beft troops to pieces, and hanged their general, who happened to be a relation of the Shach, and fent this account to the Shach by three of his foldiers, whofe fives they fpared : From one they cut off the ears, they cut the tongue out of the mouth of another, and plucked the eyes out of the head of a third ; and in this manner fent them, with this menage, to the Shach ; alluring him, that they daily wiftied he might fall into their hands, and that they would put him to as cruel a death as they could invent. Near the end of this day's journey we pafted through a wood, where we killed five wild boars, and with my hounds forced an eik to feek protection from the fea, where it w*s (hot by a Perfian. On our palfage this day, the prince obfer-v"lng a great herd of horfes, confining of a-bout three hundred, lent to the fardar, to know, Whofe horfes they were ? The fardar denied that he knew any thing about them ; aucj paic]> that he imagined they had belonged to his Excellency. Upon receiving this anfwer, the prince fent a captain of dragoons, with a party of men, and a hundred Coffacks, to feize them for the Em-prefs's ufe, and fecure the principal thief, who was a Perfian. The captain feized the horfes, horfes, appointed men to take care of them, and returned with the thief in cufto-dy. The Coffacks and Tartars at theii return declared, that many of the horfes were their own property, and had been ffolen from them. Upon this information the prince caufed keep the thief ffrictly, and gag him. In the evening the fardar begged an audience, which was granted, and it was the laft ever he got. At meeting, he told the prince that the man he had taken under cuftody was one of the Shach's merchants, who had orders to buy up horfes for the ufe of the Shach's army, but that it was altogether unknown to him in the morning, and therefore defired that the horfes and merchant might be fet at liberty : But good as the prince was, fuch bafenefs put him , into a very great paflion. He told the fardar, that he was certain he was telling a falfehood, which was a practice he had clofely followed ever fince the unlucky hour he had firft feen him: He faid, that he could now prove that the prifon-er was a thief, by more than one hundred wit-neffes, and that the horfes belonged to the Emprefs's fubjecls, many of whom in his retinue claimed them; that therefore he would neither give up the thief, nor part with the horfes. He put him in mind of the many lies he had daily made concerning our provifions; and declared, that he was much fur- prifed prifed that the Shach could perform fuch great atchievements, with men whofe chief qualifications feemed to lie in low chicanery and grofs dillimulation. Hefaid,thathewould carry the thief to the Shach, and have the affair fearched to the bottom : At this the far-dar's creff fell,and in the moft abjeel: manner,he craved pardon for hitherto not having had it ui his power to keep his word, which was oc-calioned by the people of the country, thro' which we paffed, being in a Hate of rebellion, who, in their abfence, had every where Holen the provifions; but added, that he Would permit the ambaffador to fpit on his beard, (the greateft affront which can be done to a Perfian) if he did not get plenty of every thing at Derbent. To this the prince anfwered, that if he had fpit but once for every falfehood which he had told him, his beard would foon turn white; and ordered him forthwith out of his prefence. We encamped on the fouth fide of a wood, *u a place covered with heath: After our tents Were all fet up, and every thing in order, a Very large boar rofe out from the heath, and ran into the Perfian camp, where he foon was killed by them, and brought to us. The Perfians were much afraid that Uf-tnay's men would attack them. We were informed afterwards, that it was out of regard to the Ruflian ambaffador that he did not fall on them; for he killed fome hundreds, and took many horfes from them, X x when when they were on their way to the borders of Ruflia: But what confirms my conjefture is, that the prince fent Captain Roffer, before we left Circaffia, to the chiefs in Caucafus, to ltnow if they would behave in a friendly manner to him, in his way to Perfia. They e-fcorted the captain from one to another, and all declared, as did Ufmei, that, out of re-fpect to the ambaffador, they would not hurt the Perfians; but, that if he did not come with them, they would not permit one of them to return into their own country. On the 18th, we marched early through a plain low ground; paffed three rivulets, and encamped upon the fouth fide of a wood to take refrefhment. We now left the hills, and directed our courfe near fouth-eaft, not far from the fea: We performed this journey by noon, being twenty-verfls. The Perfians were now much afraid of Ufmei, and for that reafon preffed the prince much to proceed to Derbent, fituated only about eighteen or nineteen verfts from us. On the 19th, we palfed over a clay-land very barren ; and in the afternoon marched to the north-fide of Derbent. The Perfians preffed the prince to march through the city that night for fear of Ufmei; but he would not, though the fardar left us with his army. The city fired fome finall cannon, and fome fmall arms from the walls, in honour of of the ambaflador. The Ruflian refident, Arapoff, and my good friend Counfellor Cherkeflbff, came out of Derbent to pay their refpects to the prince, with whom they had fome private converfation, and then returned to the city* leaving us to the protection of heaven. The night-watches were no fooner placed than the prince gave orders to the Circaflian prince Alifk, and his men, with the Coffacks, and three hundred horfes, which I faid had been villainoufly carried off from the borders of Circaffia, that they fliould return to their own country with all precaution and diligence. We after this paffed the night in all fafety from the Tartars. Next morning I took a view of the north-fide of this ancient city Derbent. CHAP. XXIV. Concerning Derbent; what is remarkable there^ and the Tranfaclions of the Embajfy during our Stay in it. THE city of Derbent, faid to be built by Alexander the Great, and called by many different names, as the Iron Gates, the "Perfian Gates, ire. lying in forty-one degrees, fifty minutes, north latitude, and fixty-feven degrees, forty minutes, eaft longitude, is built built upon the eaft-fide of a hill bearing that name: It is divided into three parts; the upper, nearell the top of the hill, called the City del, the middle, and the lower city. The Citydel is inhabited by foldiers only; nor is a citizen, nor any other, no not the governor of the city, permitted to enter it; neither is the commandant of the Citydel, nor any of his men, permitted to come out of it, except when commanded by an order from the Shach. Their provifions, ammunition, &c. are taken from the city by a crane ; the only gate entering from the city into it is never opened, but to receive a recruit of foldiers. The middle city is the only place inhabited by merchants, citizens, &c. but it is in a moft ruinous, mifera-ble condition, few houfes being in repair; the ftreets are very irregular, llrait, and all broken; dead horfes, and other animals, render the air very dilagreeable and nauleous. In this city are fome caravanfaries ; that belonging to the Armenians is the only one in tolerable repair. Here is a very grand mofque, which the prefent Nadir Shach has converted into a granary ; the roof of which is fupported by eighty-four large pillars. In the city there is no other public nor private place worth taking notice of. The lower city, whole walls are built into the fea, was an empty area, where they kept their cattle formerly in the night-time, for fear of Ufmei's Ufmei's men; but Shach Nadir has built a tow of (hops, on each fide of a broad ftreet, quite down the middle; at the end of which ftreet, next the fea, he built alfo a very large palace, where there is a well of excellent water. The city is about an Englilh mile long, but fcarcely three-fourths of one mile broad. It is furrounded by one of the thickeft walls I ever faw, ftrengthened by fixty fquare ba-ftions : The walls are built of a curious ftone of fhells: This is a natural ftone, no artificial eompofition, according to the whims of fome late authors; for I,having travelled far up the mountain,difcovered, as high as I went, that the rocks there were of the fame kind of ftone; conlequently, feeing the natives were in pol-feflion of fo great variety of this natural fhel-Iy cement, it would have been very needlefs to make a compolition exactly refembling the fame thing. The walls are about twenty feet thick near the furface of the earth, thirty feet high, and at the top ten or twelve feet thick; a parapet for breaft-work furrounds the top of the wall, with port-holes at convenient diftances. Peter the Great, it is well known, took this city, which was reftored with the Perfian conquered provinces, to this prefent Shach, in the reign of the Eni-prefs Anna Joannovna. The Ruffians, when it was in their poffeffion, made trial of the effects which cannon-balls had on this Wall; the ball only perforated it, but neither ftiook fliook the wall, nor rent the ftone. On the north lide of Derbent, under the hills, is very fine arable ground: Upon the tops of the hills, weft from Derbent, are to be feen fome towers, which the inhabitants lay were built by Alexander the Great; and that he continued thefe towers from Derbent weft to the Black Sea, in order to curb the Dageftan Tartars. At the place where we now are encamped are many wells of the pureft fpring water, and a variety of hewn troughs,for the conveniency of cattle to drink out of: They certainly are very ancient. About one fourth of a mile north from the walls of the city, are very many burial-places; one in particular, is a fquare furrounded with a ftone wail; the natives faid, that^fcty Chriftiau princes were buried here, who were killed by the inhabitants of Derbent,fighting for their religion; but in this fquare are interred fome hundreds; the ftones covering the graves are fo near to one another, that you may walk upon them* The Tartars from the borders of Aftrachan to Derbent, are all Mahometans, of the fecf of the Turks; but fome things make me believe, that a majority of them had formerly profeffed the Chriftian religion. They have meetings at certain times of the year, where they divert themfelves, without being able to account for the caufe, any other way than that their anceftors did fo before them; but thefe thefe times correfpond exactly with the times appointed by the Greek church for their fefti-vities: Add to this, that I was allured there were at this day very many croffes of It one erected in this hilly country, and that the natives kept their annual meetings at or near thefe crolfes, where they yet remain. They take a plurality of wives, notwithftand-*ng what Mr Hanway fays, as has been, I think, put out of doubt, by the hiftory I gave formerly of the two Bekovitches. The old bekovitch, at the time we were in Kizlaar, had either three or four wives, and a number of concubines. I fliall fay no more in this place about the Tartars, to the north of Derbent, referving thofe things till I give fome account of the Shach and his actions, in a proper place. On the low grounds between the hill and fea, to the fouth of Derbent, are very many vine-gardens, being a rich foil; and upon the fides of the mountain are many wells and rills of the Pureft water. Here alfo are many burial-places, and a variety of monuments built upon fome pleafant fpot, where their great Baters have been buried. °n the 20th January, a deputation was fent to the prince, to requeft him to march through the city to the fouth-fide, where he Would be in fafety; and beg that he would march without any military (hew, alledging, that it did not carry the appearance of friendlhip ; 352 V O Y A G S and fhip: They on their parts promifing to pay him the fame honours from their cannon, which they pay to their own King. The prince would not fee their deputation, but referred them to our gentlemen, where my worthy friend Cherkeffoff prelided, he being mailer of their language. Mr Cherkeffoff told them, that all thefe honorary affairs were fettled between the Emprefs and their King, before an ambaffador was named : That the Perfian monarchy had never before been honoured with a plenipotentiary, an ambaflador extraordinary, reprefenting the perfon of the Emprefs, before this time : That the prince was determined never to fubmit to any thing derogatory to the Emprefs, or inferior to the King of Perfia : That he not only would inarch with all military honours through Derbent, but even to the very threfhold of their King's palace : Finally, that if they fent any more deputations, or made the leaft delay, he would decamp to the fide of the fea, and order a Ruffian fhip, which was riding at Derbent, to affcmble as many fhips as would be fuflicient to carry him and his retinue back to Ruflia. He alfo ordered, that their fardar fhould himfelf come, and keep the inhabitants and others in order, while he was marching through the city. This had the defired effect: The fardar came and promifed every thing, but could not get admittance to the prince. A troop of of dragoons, with their kettle-drum, trumpet, and colours, preceded with their fwords drawn. The band of mufick followed the doctor; his mate, and I, rode next; the gen* tlemen of the embafly fucceeded; they were followed by the pages; the ambaflador mounted on a fine horle, as white as fnow, rode a* lone, his fecretary being near, and but a lit* tie behind him; twelve liverymen on foot* fix on each fide attended, uncovered: The refident and Mr Cherkaffoff, followed the prince; the other troop of dragoons, with their colours, kettle-drum, and trumpet, fucceeded; the baggage followed them, e-fcorted by fixty foldiers, and their drums; and a party of the Perfian horfe brought Up the rear: When the rear was in motion, that was made known by the drums; then the firft kettle-drum and trumpet played,then the mufick, laftly the fecond trumpet and kettle-drum, and this went round in their order, till we were in our camp; only when the mufick entered the north gate, it played until they had palled through the fouth gate* We arrived fafely in our camp on the fouth-fide of the city, in two hours from our firft °utfettin£. In the time of our march the Prince was fainted with their fmall cannon, Very regularly, and their foldiers continued to fire off their mufkets from the walls for a long time. In the evening, the refidcnt and Mr CherkafToff brought into our camp, as privately Yy as as they could, a beautiful young Circaflian maid, who, her parents being dead, was brought to Derbent to her uncle, who was a merchant. The governor, having got notice of this beauty, negociated in a friendly way with the uncle to part with her for his bed. To this he would not comply ; and, when he was threatened and hard prefled, he begged that the Ruffian resident would receive her into his houfe privately. This the refident did, and the merchant declared, that flie had made an elopement from him, nor could he tell where ihe was. 7 he governor caufed fearch his houfe, and afterwards tortured the poor man, who would not difcover her; but that night we lay on the north fide of the city, he moft inhumanly caufed cut off his head, to prevent, as he thought, a dif-covery of the cruelty he had been guilty of. But the cunning Arapoff had fpies upon all his actions, who made this report to the prince, who fent a meffage by one of his interpreters to the governor, letting him know, that he was thoroughly acquainted with all the villany he he had been guilty of to the murthered merchant, a fubject of Ruflia, and ordered that he fliould deliver up the merchant's fervants and goods, according to a correct catalogue of which he was in poffeffion. The governor, extremely frightened, brought every thing to our camp belonging to the deceafed merchant, and and offered his perfon to endure any punifliment the prince fliould think proper to inflict upon him, or offered to pay what fum of money he was able, in order to atone for his crime. The prince would not fee him ; hut Mr CherkafToff told him from the prince, that he did not mean to come into terms with any villain, whatever rank and power he might have ; that he was no judge in Perfia, except in what related to his own people ; hut that he determined to inform Nadir Shach of all the indignities he had met with fince his arrival in the empire of Perfia, and that he would not fail to re prefent fuch unheard of barbarity hi a true impartial light. This faid, CherkafToff ordered him to return immediately, or elfe he would ufe him in a Very different manner. In the evening, the prince Tent this maid, with her uncle's fervants and effects on board the fhip, with orders to the matter to ufe them with all hofpitality, and fafety deliver them to the governor of Aflrachan, who would fend them to Circaffia. Next morning Dr Lerch defired my advice in the hofpital concerning a young dragoon, who had been very ufeful in helping °ur carts through the rapid river Agrachan ; and having wet his feet in the ftream, one of them froze. He had nqver taken off his hoots till yefternight, when he firft difcovered the danger he was in. One of his feet was was fo mortified, that he did not feel deep fcarifications ; wherefore, it was refolved to amputate his leg below the knee. Whilfl we were viewing the foot, and confulting what was to be done, a number of Perfian officers came about us, and faw the operation performed. They came daily to the hofpital, and faw the care which was taken of him and others, at which they expreffed no fmall furprize. On the 29th day, before we left Derbent, he was put on board the fhip in a good way, with directions, in order to be tranfported to Aftrachan, where I faw him afterwards in good health. At firft, the Perfians imagined that he was fome great criminal, and that the lofs of his leg was a punifh-ment ; but, when they were undeceived by our interpreters, they declared that they believed no fuch cure had ever been effected in Perfia ; and that doubtlefs the Shach would give any money to a man who could perform fuch operations. Soon after this, a meffage was fent to the prince from a Perfian general, requefting him to fend his doctor, acquainting him that he was poxed to a very great degree. Dr Lerch had liberty granted to go ; but, tho' they re-compenfed the doctor well enough, they alfo required me. The prince, reprefcnting to me the danger I vyould be in of lofing my liberty by the barbarous Nadir Shach, if I performed any cure upon his people, detcrmi- ned me to withfland their follicitations. The prince returned for anfwer, that as I was not a Ruflian, he had no power to order me to attend any but thofe immediately under his command. Having been informed that gold was to be fold in a profitable way here, and, having a targe fum of filver coin by me, I applied to n*y friend CherkafToff to get me a merchant: He very foon produced one all in rags, who brought with him forty-two triple ducats. I agreed, but, confidering that there was much had coin in the country, would not receive it unlefs tried by fire and water. To this he agreed; and out of the forty-two I only got twenty-five of good gold; what remained he made no fcruple to take again, for he was prefent at the trial. The night following, I overheard the prince coughing, and went to alk what was the caufe ? The centinels would not permit me to go in; but the prince overhearing, afked who I was, and what was the reafon I was flopped from vifiting him? the centinel anfwered, that yefterday after break-faff, the marfhal had given orders to permit none to enter into that tent without his knowledge; at which the prince expreffed furprize, and more anger than ufual. When I entered into the tent, I faw a great fum of gold upon a fmall table, and told the prince that the major had given fuch orders on account of the gold, and defired he would not be be angry with him; but I took the liberty to alk him if he had already payed for it ? telling him that I had bought fome, and that out of forty-two had only got twenty-five good gold. This information was agreeable to the prince, efpecially as he had not paid for it, and he delired that I would take the trouble to try it. But, wanting to fweat the marflial, I anfwered, that I willingly would Ihew the major or any other the way to try it; but that, as his excellency knew, I was neither able to ffand the fire, nor any great fatigue long, I hoped he would hold me excufed. To this motion he heartily agreed, and the major was fent for, and diflurbed from his fleep, which he loved to excefs. At his arrival he was fe-verely reproved for giving fuch orders without the prince's knowledge, and made to under-fland that in the embaffy, there were feveral officers he was every whit as well pleafed to fee as him: He then told him that I had bought gold, and how I had tried it, and by what proportion I would have been a lofcr if I had not taken that precaution. The major, upon hearing of this, feemed confufed, but wanted greatly to be at the trying of it, which I foon put him in the way to do, and then left him to his contemplation. As he had fome thoufands to try, it took him up a long time. Towards the evening I went to know what difcovcry he had made, and he told me that about one-third of the whole number number proved not good ; he, at that time, was fifting and warning the earth underneath where the fire had been, the reafon of which I begged to know ; he faid that he had bought and paid for forty-five triple ducats, which, he alfo endeavouring to try, had proved very faulty; he faid that he had loft fe-ven, nor could he tell what was become of diem, therefore he was fifting and wafhing die earth to fee if he could difcover any gold ; out his labour proved abortive. On the 7th day, after our arrival at Derbent, the horfe thief, formerly mentioned, was lent for into the prince's tent, and there tQld that he was to be fent on board the fhip, and to be gagged to prevent his fpeaking ; that the foldiers, who were to put him on board, had orders inftantly to difpatch him, if he offered in the leaft to make any noife ; he was pinioned, and lent off between the city wall and Perfian camp, and was fafely put on board, unknown to any of the Perfians. Next morning, a meffage was fent from the major to the fardar, to let him know that the prifoner had made his efcape; and therefore required that he might be fent back a-Sain, fuppofing it impoffible that he could efcape all the Perfian army. The lardar was much, luprifed at this news, and made all fearch • but faid that he fufpecled we had billed him. . - On Oa the firft: day of our encamping oil the fouth lide of the city,many blind people came into our camp ; their numbers increafed daily, till they numbered about twenty or thirty, begging alms and bread. The prince ordered them daily to be fed from what remained of our provifion.- Thefe unfortunate people were the remains of five hundred, whom the cruel Shach caufed to be deprived of their eyes in one day, after having made his army ly with their wives and daughters. It was laid that he punifhed them in this cruel manner, becaufe they had formerly ferved the Ruffians when they were mafters of Derbent. Thefe poor wretches bleffed us and curfed their Shach in one breath ; and, when we at any time counfelled them not to curfe the Shach, left he might put them to death or torture, they anfwered, that he was a crumfak or rafcal ; that if he had had the fmallefl tincture of goodnefs, he would have caufed them to be put to death, rather than permit them to live fo long in fuch mifery. They faid, that, before we came to Derbent, they were obliged to crawl upon the lides of the hills, to feek roots to fatisfy hunger ; that many of them had been fo fortunate as get fome poifonous roots, which put an end to their torments; others had ended their mifer-able lives by falling over precipices, or into the fea ; but added, that they were ftill re-ferved for greater fufferings. One One day I went, in company of fome of our gentlemen, to fee the manner of their burials : The body was laid in a grave built on the lide with brick and lime. There was a place on the eaft lide of the grave railed a little higher than the floor, whereon they laid the body, with his face covered, directed towards Mecca: When the body was thus de-pofited, they covered the grave with an arch of brick and lime, upon which they threw earth. When the ceremony was finiflied, the prieft turned to us ftrangers, and, in good Ruflian language, told us, that the deceafed Was a good believer or muffulman ; He faid fomething in favours of the Mahometan religion, and added, that although they could not believe that Chrift was the Son of God, in any other fenfe, than that he was a great prophet, a good man, and much beloved by God ; and that in this view he might be rea-fonably efteemed the Son of God, as all good men are : He faid, that all die muflulmen efteemed him one of the greateft prophets ; that they acknowledged he had cured many difeafes, done much good, and even railed the dead, when he was upon earth; that they tanked him the next great prophet to Mahomet.; and, pointing to a white tomb at no great diftance, faid, that in that fepulchre heth. interred the remains of a great and good man, who formerly had been emperor 0yer all the country, as far as the Black Sea : Z 2 He He faid, that when the Mefliah was upon the earth, at a time palling that way, being thirdly, he drank of a well of pure water near the root of a fmall tree. After he had quenched his thirft, he fat down to take a reft, and, as he knew every thing,commanded the dead prince to rife, which he inftantly did. After difcourfing with him fome time, the Mefliah faid, that he knew he had been a good man, and therefore would readily grant whatever he would afk : The prince begged that he would permit him to die, and bury him in the fame grave where he formerly lay. The Mefliah condefcended to this, and buried him in the monument we then faw. I faid, that I was furprized that any tree, of fo fmall growth, efpecially a thorn, fliould ftill grow, it being more than feventeen hundred years fince Chrift was upon the earth : He anfwered, that it never would die, becaufe, faid he, it is a witnefs of that great miracle which the Meftiah had performed ; and that it was handed down to them by tradition ever fince it happened. As it was at no great diftance, we went and drank of this well. The tree feemed to be anticnt, and upon the decay, though none of us gave great credit to what the Mahometan prieft had told us. At Derbent, a few of our gentlemen rode out to take the air one day. We went up the hill of Derbent to view the country, and fee fee if there was any poflibility to crofs over the hill above the city ; but a centinel fpying Us from the walls, called out in their language, and immediately the walls were lined with Perfians ; fome of them threw Hones, and fired off fome pieces, though 1 fuppofe not with ball, as neither we nor our horfes were fiiot or hurt, nor did we hear a whizzing noife, very perceiveable if the ball flies near where you are. Of this we made a report to the ambaflador at our return to the camp. CHAP. XXV. Of our Journey to Baku, and of what happened remarkable on the Road* HAVING got eveiy thing in readinefs, we fet out on the 29th of January, and continued our journey fouth and by eaft, having the fea on our left, and the mountains °n our right hand, only about feventeen Verfts. We paffed a few brooks and one fniall river, and encamped on the fide of a wood called Turpocala, having paffed thro* the ruined walls of fome antient large city, and three modern pitiful ruined villages Without inhabitants. Though the jackal was troublefome by howling in the night-time, between Targu and Derbent, yet it was fo m no comparifon to the noife they made between tween Derbent and Baku. They are lefs than the wolf, but thicker and (bagged, of a light brown colour, They are faid to be purveyors for the lion ; but I fpoke with none who had ever feen or heard of lions being in this country. The Perfians delight in telling the moff romantic and abfurd fables, which can poffibly be invented ; for inffance, they fay, that this great city was the principal rcfidence of fome great emperors, who ruled over all the hilly country ; and that Derbent, at the diftance of feventeen verfts, was only a kitchen, Likeways, the day before we left Derbent. the governor came to regulate our provifions, with Mr Cherkaffoff, who now went with US, and Major Berezin. When our gentlemen were lincerely pitying the diftreffed condition of Perfia, which, though naturally one of the richeft countries in the world, at prefent could not find provifions for our in-confiderable retinue ; whereas Ruflia, naturally a much poorer country, found no difficulty to provide largely for five thoufand Perfians and horfes, and alfo twenty elephants. To this the governor anfwered, by giving us a hiftorieal account of,the ncarnefs of kin the Shachs of Perfia were to the fun, moon and ftars ; and at laft ended a long jumble of nonfenfe, by faying, among other childifh vauntings, that Nadir Shach was fo rich, that he could prefently fill the Cafpian fea with gold and the moft precious ftones. To which Mr CherkafToff made anfwer, that he could not give credit to that, when experience made it evident he could not fatisfy his delicate appetite with a fufficiency of good provifion. On the 30th, we travelled fouth through a large wood, through which two brooks fought their paffage eaft to the Cafpian. On the fouth fide of this wood, we paffed on our right hand the ruins of a very great village, and a river running by the fouth fide of it. At the diftance of nine verfts from our laft camp, we paffed a ruinous fquare fort with four baftions, and a very channelly river. We palled the famous river Secura, running eaft, a moft rapid ftream. The ford is about a verft broad, on the north fide of which Hands a miferable fquare caftie, which the prefent Shach built forjceepi ng provifions. We encamped on the fouth fide of the river, having travelled twenty verfls. On the 31ft, we travelled fouth about twenty two verfts, thro' a pretty open country, and encamped on the fouth fide of a fmall rivulet, not far from the ruins of an °id fquare caftie, a ruined village, and garden. February iff, we continued our march fouthward twenty verfls through a thorny, woody ground. We paffed eight rivulets, four of which happened to be dry, and and encamped on the north fide of a fmall one. I had a view of an exceeding high hill, called Shach's Gorry, or the Shach's hill, becaufe it is reckoned one of the higheft by the fea in Caucafus. We marched from this place on the 2d, continued our route fouth by eaft through a thorny wood, where I had the misfortune to have a lappet torn from my coat. We paffed five rivulets, and encamped on the fouth-weft of Soran, by fome called Sabran, at the diftance of about two verfts, near which is a fquare caftie in bad order, where five hundred men form a garrifon : It is ftrengthen-ed with nineteen baftions, and ftands upon a plain. Here, it being ferene frofty weather, we had a good view of the Shach's hill, furrounded with a perpendicular rock, as far as we could difcover, and the Perfians faid that about one-fourth of it, which we could not fee, was formed in the fame manner, fo that no mortal ever was on the top of it, which is all covered over with fnow, like a bonnet. The fnow lies firatum fufcr ftratum, the low-ermoft is very brown, no doubt being mixed with fome fine dull carried up to fuch a height by violent winds, but the uppermoft fnow is very white and fparkling, and the intermediate fnow changes from below upwards from brown to a perfect white colour. Having travelled twenty verfts, our Captain Bernhour, Bernhour, having been appointed general-quarter-mailer, was in ufe to go forward with a number of men to mark out the ground, and fee the tents fet up. This day, the faucy fardar had the impudence to have his tent placed in the only dry ground. Bern-hour ordered the prince's ileeping tent to bp fet up immediately before his : The fardar fent out fome of his men to beat off Bern-hour, and they were preparing with their clubs to treat the captain very roughly ; upon which the captain ordered about twelve nien to level their pieces at them; at the fight of which they fled, and the mighty Ami Ru-flan Khan called out for fear, pulled down his tents, and left the ground to Bernhour, When the prince arrived, a complaint was fent of the captain's infolence to his honour. The anfwer was, that the officers of the era-bally were gentlemen, and would be thought Unworthy to ferve the Emprefs, if they would fuffer themfelves to be infulted ; that Ami Rullan Khan may think himfelf very happy *u having efcaped fo eafily ; that it was fur-prifing Mr Bernhour had not ordered his dragoons to fire upon them. He let the fardar know, that a proper report of all his actions would be delivered to the Shach in due time ; and returned Mr Bernhour thanks for his gallant behaviour. We fet out early on the 3d day of February, and, before the rear had begun to march, march, our men were attacked by the Pef-iians both in front and rear at the lame time. They wounded three of our men with their fibres ; but we got three prifoners, and took the arms from others, in order to have them difcovered. Now, the fardar was obliged to -punifli his men, who, we judged, had been encouraged to this bafe action by himfelf. We travelled eighteen verfts only, and encamped by the fide of a brook, where were the veftiges of fome antient city, which the Perfians laid had been built by Alexander the Great. Here a road ftruck off over the mountains to the ancient city of Schamachi. We paffed by and through many cleferted ruined villages, extremely well fituated. In company of three of our gentlemen, we fpied a low and four wild pigs. We gave chafe to them, who ran towards a wood, at about two verfts diftance. We frequently fired our piftols at them, but without effect. After the firft or fecond fire, it was very remarkable, that the pigs did not keep clofe together ; and that when we were near, the fow turned upon us, and chafed us back to a confiderable diftance: This flie did thrice, till fhe had conveyed her young into the wood. This is fact; audit was beautiful to fee fuch affection, conduct, and prowefs in fuch a brute. This day we had a fcuffte with the Perfians ; and we were likely to have had one amongft amongft ourfelves; when I alighted from my horfe, I found my friend Captain Berhour m a very crufty humour. I inquired into the caufe: He laid, that the major had found fault with his difpofing of our camp, though quite ignorant of the matter, and had given him fuch abulive language before fome of the officers and our men, that it was in-fufferable, and unbecoming an officer to bear; hut he did not well know what to do ; and to complain to the prince would not look Well, and probably would not have the wifti-cd for effect. I anfwered, that it was well known that he began to ufe me in a way which his fuperlors never once attempted, when we were yet in Rullia : 1 hat I thought it Was the moft prudent way to endeavour to put a flop to his fallies at once. I delired therefore to fpeak with him privately, where I laid my grievances before him in a clear and diftincl: manner. Upon which we concluded a friendlhip, which never yet was broken : Nor had 1 any reafon to believe that any rupture would happen between us ; and this was accomplished without any noife, bloodflied, or danger to me, as no wit-neffes were prefent. The captain underftood my meaning well, and, towards fun-fet, pretended fome bufi-nefs with our mighty marfhal. They walked down the fide of the brook, out of the view of our camp, and there, without the fmalleft A a a danger, clanger, adjlifted matters fo well, that the major returned one of the heft tempered gentlemen in our fuite, full of complaifance to captain Bernhour, and expreffed no fmall grief for the paflion he had fo improperly put himfelf into at his dear friend the captain. And indeed he behaved to him ever after with lingular deference. On the 4th we travelled thirty-fix verfts farther fouth, and encamped fourteen verfts to the fouth fide of the peak, called Barmach, by Olearius called Spits Barmach, Barmach being a Perfian word, meaning a hand ; becaufe the top of this rock, from the fea, re-femblcs a man's hand, the'three middle fingers being clofed, the thumb a little bent, and the little finger flan ding erect. I wanted much to fee this wonderful hill, of which I had heard much, and had lately an opportunity of reading Olearius's defcription of it ; but I durft not afk leave, well knowing, that the prince would not permit me. Determined, however, to fee it, and rifle his difpleafure, I went forward to Captain Bern-hour, where I met with our engineer, whom I intreated to go alongft with me. His only objection was, that, as it was faid many robbers, and fuch like wild people, inhabited that mountain, and as he had no fire-arms, he durft not venture. I gave him one of my piflols; and having about fixteen charges ready, we agreed, and rode forward to the foot of the mountain, where we left our horfes, in the firft caravanfary I law in Perfia, excepting thofe in Derbent, notwithstanding what Mr Hanway afferts. We went from this up the hill a great way. It was a Very thick fog, fo that we could fee at no great diftance ; nor could we find the road which Olearius defcribes. At laft, however, we faw feveral rocks, but none of them agreed with Olearius's account of the peak. Amongft thefe rocks we faw fome ftraggling People, who fled from us. As I was climb-lng up, very much fatigued, I faid fome-what, and expected an anfwer; but not fleeting with one, I looked about, and my companion, the engineer, was gone with my piftol. This difconcerted me altogether : However, I would not return back till I had *nade a ftricter fearch for Olearius's road, which proceeded upon the fouth fide of a r*fli of water running down the hill ; I therefore went acrofs the hill to feek for this road. 1 had not travelled half a mile when I heard People talking rather below me farther on. I drew near, and could perceive that they tyoke the Ruffian language. I went to lhcm, and had the fortune to find, that it Was, 0u-r major, two officers, my brother, fix dragoons, and three fervants, with their horfes, at the well and tree defcribed by Olearius, 1 was very tired with my long fatigue ; but affured them, that I fliould now Had the road ; road ; for that was the well and tree de-fcribed very exactly by Olearius. I mounted a dragoon horfe, and we rode a long way up a very high fteep hill on the fouth lide of the rill. At laft, after much labour, we gained the top of one hill, and found there a fpring of excellent water, near a fmall village, all in ruins. We were necellitated to leave our horfes there, the hill being too fteep, and clambered up a very fteep green hill a great way upon our hands and feet. At laft we reached a plain, and, at a very fmall diftance, difcovered a rock, which was the peak. We now turned north, keeping the peak on our right hand ; and foon, through the fog, difcovered a great gate, with a breaft work of ftone above it, and holes for throwing down ftones, or any thing elfe, upon any who might come near it. We entered this gate, and proceeded about forty paces, having the peak on our right hand, and a well on the left. About the middle of this area, (the broadeft part of which did not exceed 'eight paces,) we difcovered a fmall entry in" to a cave in the peak, and an arched cellar, part of it broken. If we looked up, we could not perceive the top of the peak ; nei* ther could we difcover the hill below us. 1* we looked down, the mift was fo thick, that we could fee nothing. Near the fide of the peak was a hole, big enough to let two men pafs; but it was almoft perpendic ular. However, ver, we faw fome ftone fleps, which made us believe that this had been fome fecret paf-fage from this place. This being all we could difcover here, we returned by the fame way we had entered, for there was no other; and, keeping the peak on our left hand, did not proceed far till we came to another very fteep hill, up which we fcrambled on hands and feet to a great height. At lafl we came to a plain, upon which was fome cow-dung ; which confirmed us, that there was fome o-ther way not fo fleep ; for we imagined that cattle could not keep their feet upon fuch a fteep hill. The top of this green hill was near a femicircle on the weft fide of the peak, (whofe top we could not as yet fee,) as it were forming the fegment of a circle. We fearched, and at lafl difcovered above us, fome hewn fleps of a flair, defcribed by O-learius. Lieutenant Ozeroff, my brother, and I purfued our progrefs upon crevices of the rock, till we came to the hewn fteps, which were placed on different parts of the fleep rock ; but where men could get up by crannies, there were no fleps. I imagine there were a hundred hewn fteps, on the top of which was a fmall fquare, built with brick, one fide of which meafured four feet. From this we paffed through the top of the rock from the well to the eaft fide, where there was another fquare, built round with a ftone wall upon our right hand. Here Here we liftened, and heard the embafly parting by, as it were at a great diftance from us. There was a palfage leading from where we were, north about ten paces, having the rock on the weft: This palfage was not a foot and an half broad, and we could not fee the bottom below us for the mift; if we had flipped we muft have fallen, God only knows how deep; however, we turned our face to the rock, and with all our care proceeded in this narrow way to the north, where an opening through the rock led us into a fquare chamber on the weft lide, built round "with ftone. We faw a book in a hole of the wall; we fuppoled the writing was Arabick; but the coarfe paper was fo ancient, that when we endeavoured to bend it, it broke like a piece of ftone: We confulted whether we ftiould carry this with us; but concluded, that, as this place was efteemed facred by the inhabitants, it would be a crime not far fhort of facrilege, and therefore let it remain. Upon the fouth lide of this fquare,layon a place covered with ftones, many deers horns, to the branches of which were tied pieces of filk of various colours: It was faid, one of the Mahometan prophets was buried here. We fired twice out of a piftol from this place; at our return we wondered that the major and his company did not hear the report. From this place we faw the tops of many high mountains, rearing their lofty heads far a- bove bove the clouds ; but the mill at this time was far beneath us. The inhabitants affirm* ed that Ararat was to be fcen from this place; but, as we had none of them with us, we could not tell whether we faw it or not. By the protection of God we returned to our companions in all fafety, after having obferved a very great natural curiofity, which was a cylinder of ftone which flood on, and was part of the fouth fide or end of the peak; We computed it to be about three or four fathoms *n circumference, and about fixty feet higher than any part of the peak; about one fourth °f its height from the top was a hole of a rhomboidal figure, from whence Olearius fays, water ilfued; but though the rock below this hole was much blacker than the reft of the ftone, we law no water running, nor dropping from it. The inhabitants fay, that when the prophet Elias fled from King Ahab, he lodged on the top of this rock, and that he fmote the ftone pillar with his fpear, in lhat place, that he might get water, without heing neceflitated to go down to the village I formerly defcribed; and that when he fmote the ftone he flood upon the fquare built upon the top of the ftone fteps. To this ridiculous ftory I made fome objections, fuch as the height being forty feet perpendicular between the bafe of the pillar and the hole ; the diftance between the bafe of the pillar and the fquare, being near upon a level, was a- bout bout forty feet; thefe confidered would make the prophet's fpcar to be more than flxty feet long: Add to this, that the diftance between the two acutefl angles of the hole being more than one foot and an half, would make the fpear fo weighty that it Would require the ilrength of one hundred men to raife it up, and far more make a ftroke: But fuppofing all this true, the prophet would have been put to great trouble, and very much danger, to get to the root of this cylinder, upon the top of fuch fteep ragged rocks, &c. To all which their anfwers were extremely eafy, like many of our neighbours* Wonderful! un-neceffary miracles, ufeful only to am ufe and captivate the airy phancies of the moft unrea-fonable of mankind; wherefore I leave them to their unconquerable ignorance. After we had defcended this \vonderful hill, we mounted at the caravanlary, and rode to our camp as faff as the hungry horfes were able, where at eight o'clock at night we met with a very cold reception from the prince; but as the major was, by his office, regulator of the embaffy, he was obliged to fland a butt for us all; however, he foon fled the field, and went to bed fupperlefs, where I do not think he was much opprcffed with fleep. My appetite, by long faffing, riding, and other fatigue, was keen fet; and 1 was determined even to take the bit, and lend a deaf ear to all the prince's anger, which, I knew knew well, proceeded purely from his father ly care of fuch unthinking youths as we were* In giving fome account of our expedition, I Was not iong jn railing a general laugh a-gainft the engineer, Mr Shmariggin, who ran off with my piflol for fear, as I faid, of Hones; for we had feen but two or three Wild people. Dr Lerch gave a blundering account of his having entered a cave fome where about the bafe of the peak, where he fnv many natives, men, women, and children, with their cows, and fome hens; but, being quite fatigued, was obliged to return without accomplifliing his defires. This account of the doctor's had alrnofl kindled the prince's anger the fecond time; however, it was diverted by other difcourfe. On the 5th, we travelled fouth thro' a hilly ground, over ridges of rock, of a dark coloured, jfoft grained ftone,lying eaft and weft: b many places about forty verfts, the rock edging upwards. We paffed by a hill like a cone on our right, in form of a fugar-loaf; niauy fmall hills of a red colour; and many ^ack thick naphtha fprings: We paffed a caravanfary on our left, and encamped on the fide of a rivulet of very muddy water, where was another very good caravanfary; °n the north fide of this rivulet were feveral naphtha fprings; and to the eaft a hill of different colours. Bbb On On the 6th, we proceeded eaft and by fouth, about thirty verfts farther, paffed two caravanfaries ; and about feven verfts diftant from Baku, I vifited fun dry pure clear naphtha wells, near a ruined village and caravanfary: The naphtha was very clear and pure, floating on the furface of the pureft water, from which the natives fkimmed it off, and bottled it up, well corked, for ufe ; it is very little different in colour from the water, and I believe nothing is more volatile. Thefe wells fmell ftrongly of the naphtha at a confidenable diftance; and the profits ariling to the inhabitants, who collected it in former times, has been fo great, as to encourage them to furround thefe fix wells with ftones well po-lifhed, to contain the water in little bounds ; but at prefent the few inhabitants living here are fo poor, that I queftion if they all together can produce die value of one crown piece. They appear to be only living fkele-tons covered with (kin. The naphtha is accounted among the natives inferior not to any diing known, died as embrocations, for removing pains: The Perfians imagine, that taken inwardly it is poifonous; but I knew an Armenian, a ftrong man indeed, who drank off a large quantity, taking it for fpi~ rits; it made him feverifh for a fhort time, but did no other harm. At a little diftance eaft from thefe wells is a fmall pool, upon which thick black naphtha floats, from three to to five inches deep above the water; the black naphtha iinells like the white. In the evening we arrived fafe, and encamped upon the north fide of Baku, where we ftaid till the 12th day of February. Baku is fituated in forty degrees, eighty minutes north latitude, and fifty degrees eaft longitude; is a very fmall city, built upon the fide of the Cafpian, of the figure of a ie-niicircle, inclofed by a high ftrong wall, fortified with baftions, but altogether irregular; wherefore the Ruffians, when it was in their poffeftlon, made an out-wall very regular, well ftrengthened with good baftions, all of ftone work; without which they formed a broad deep dry ditch; but the Perfians not knowing the ufefulnefs of thefe works, have abandoned them, tho' in good repair, and remain within their old ufelets wall. In this city was a palace, a noble pile of building,all of ftone work, part of it yet Handing ; the reft was deftroyed by the Ruflian bombs, when they befieged it from the fea. It is faid, that none of the Perfians had ever feen a bomb before this fiege: That in the evening when the bomb-catch was warped into their harbour, and properly ftationed, they began to throw bombs into the city; fome of them fell in the market-place, about which many of the inhabitants gathered, wondering what it could mean, which the burfting of them foon foon difcovered, with the burning and de-ftru&ion of their houfes. The governor of the city, who was admiral, fent to the prince to defire, that our men and officers might be reflrained from going into the city at any time in great numbers. This was agreed to: They were probably a-fraid that we had fome defign to feize it, which, if we had, would not have proved difficult, considering that a great number of our men, and all the Talkoners, attending the horfes and prefents, were in the city. Great fields of faffron were planted here; but we had no fewel whatfoever,and the weather proved extremely cold from a fharp north wind. The inhabitants make ufe of no other fewel than black naphtha, baked up with a little dry earth and fand, which, thus mixed, they form into balls about the bignefs of hand granadoes, three of which, they affirm, are fufficient to heat an oven for baking their bread, which fmells very drfa-greeably; but we were obliged to eat of it daily. Naphtha and faffron compofe the ffaple trade from this port. Many provinces on the Cafpian fea ufe no other fewel than black naphtha; they burn it alfo in their lamps. Some confufion happened to break out a-mong the mountaineers called Lelgees; this was the caufe, that Ami Ruflan Khan was obliged to leave us with the greateft part of his his forces, whom we never faw after this. Upon the heights, at fome diftance from Baku, are fome watch-towers, fuch as thofe near Derbent. I went one day to hunt with fome of our gentlemen on the hills of Apfhe-ron, fituated about four verfts north from Baku, where we killed fome antelopes, and a hare: The north lide of thefe hills, near the fea, is very fteep, extremely high, and fright-fome to look down upon the plains below: From this we had an imperfect diftant view of the fquare where the everlafting fire was kept. I fliall not take up the reader's time to give an account of Zoroafter, nor his fucceffors, who were the firft worfhippers of fire, as Mr Hanway has done, nor follow his example, Jn defcribing fcveral arched temples of ten or fifteen feet high, which at preient have no e*iftence, and probably never had, nor will * take upon me to defcribe a horizontal gap in the cleft of a rock, two feet deep from the ground, near fix long, and about three feel: broad, out of which, he fays, iffues a con-fiant flame, which rifeth, when the wind Mows, eight feet high, but burns lower when it is calm weather, and how the inhabitants hum lime with this wonderful holy fire; becaufe all thefe prodigies were invifible to e-Very one of our gentlemen; nor did the priefts, who were very ready to fhow our people every curiofity, fay any thing about them, them, neither were fuch wonders known to the inhabitants of Baku, nor to the chiefs *of the Perfian army, with whom we converfed daily, and made all poftible enquiry about their wonders and curiofitics. Bat here follows a very true account of what is to be found worth notice there. On the nth, our ambaffador with many of his gentlemen went to fee this famous fire. After they had paffed over the hills into the plain on the north fide of them, diftant from Baku about five, or at moft fix verfts, they entered into a fmall fquare dike, built with ftone, the area of which would fcarcely be half an acre of ground, Scots meafure. The foil was a pure fluxible fand. Within this area, was a well of fpring water, the furface of which was covered over with pure white naphtha : but a few inches lower than the general furface of the fandy area. Our company only law one poor room, where thefe wonderful works are faid to be feen, and another mean apartment where the votaries lived, the number of whom at that time did not exceed forty. They gladly introduced our gentlemen into the room I fpoke 'of above, where was a place apart, like our hearths, which you may, with Hanway, call their altar : In this, being pure land, were placed a few hollow reeds: One, by way of pre-eminence, was in the middle, and larger than than the reft, to which other reeds were clofely joined, fo as to form three openings at the top, out of which iffued three pale blue flames. At this time, fome of thefe reeds were extinguifhed : But, that the am-halfador and his company might fee them all at work, they brought a veftel with pure naphtha, and poured fome of it on the fend about the reed, and with a bit of burning paper let the naphtha exhaling through the reed on fire. This is a true account of the everlafting fire at Apflieron ; all other ftories Wrote about it, by which they have impofed Upon the world, never before detected, as far as I know, are groundlefs : And indeed, it is to be lamented that bodies of credulous, other ways learned men, fliould fubmit to be fo grofsly impofed upon, by falfe and fabulous accounts of things. There are a few iflands eaft from Apflieron yielding plenty of the different naphthas called in the Ruffian language Svetoi Oftrophi, or Holy iflands : I know of nothing more remarkable about Baku, except that its port for fmall veftels is juftly efleem-ed the beft on the Cafpian, being defended from the fury of the fea by fome iflands °n the eaft, which break the force of the Waves. CHAP- CHAP. XXVL A Continuation of the Ambaffador9j Journey to Sbamachee. HAVING taken our horfes and the reft of the prefents for the Shach, out of this city, and put on board one of the go* vernment's (hips to be lent for Aftrachan all the baggage we could fpare, with our fleep-ing waggons, we marched from this poor city, with our half flarved horfes on the 12th, and encamped near the caravanfary which we paffed by on the 6th. This day, at this place, we fpent in fitting every thing for carriage. On the 1 3tli 1 in the morning, being very tempeftuous weather, we marched fouth and by eaft, through the valleys amongft high hills, whole fummits were black with naphtha, till we came to the lea-more, or rather a lake bordering upon it, having a pyramidical rock in the middle of it: We travelled over fea-glafs in many places, and palled by two caravanfarys, and turning fomewhat more wefterly, encamped near a very grand caravanfary at the fide of the fea, where are two wells clofe together, covered with ftone; the one contains very frefh water, the other faltifh: Here we remained marned all night, having travelled no fewer than thirty verfts, with our fatigued hungry horfes. On the 14th, we marched thirty verfts this day, directing our courfe two miles Wefterly, by the fide of a very barren hill. We paifed through a river, over which was built a ftately bridge of hewn ftone, confining only of one large arch ; paffed by, and over, feveral ftony hills* and great plenty of pure fea-glafs, the moft excellent 1 ever law* f"ch as lanthorns are frequently made of. We, having palled many mountains, continued Our march next over fome arable lands. We paffed by a very high hill, at no great diftance, to the fouth and a fmall caravanfary on the north. This hill was round near the top, but the very fummit looked as if it had been cut through from fouth to north by a deep foffa. We were told that in the ^ear 1728, it vomited fire, and that it continued to fmoke for a long time after that* * would gladly have vifited it, but was pre-yented by a broad long lake between it and °ur road. Near the end of this day's journey we paffed another mountain at no great J^iftance on the north, which, the fun fhin-lng bright, fparkled like diamonds. Dr Lerch, Mr Rafe, and I rode towards ir^ Where we found fome fea-glafs and many large pieces of natural cryflal. I collected many, but they were ftolen from me after* C c c wards. wards. We paffed a narrow deep river o" ver a fmall (lone bridge, and encamped on the north welt fide of it; where the ground was all burrowed with fnakes ; for which reafon I paffed the night without much fleep. On the 15th, we fet out at eight o'clock A* M. and marched down by the fide of this fmall rivulet, having rifmg ground on our left. We now directed our courfe W< N. W. or thereabout, occafioned by die mountains, till we came to a meanly fortified city, called Navagic, pairing by the inhabitants, who were encamped about a mile on the fouth fide of it; they were very poor* But perceiving, at a corner of their camp, fomething like a fold, Mr Cherkeffoff and 1 rode up to the entry which was clofed; there we faw three very beautiful women feparat-ing the reeds with their hands, of which this fold was made, to get a view of out men as they paffed by. One of them not perceiving us, went into a fmall hut, the door of which was open to us. She fell down on her knees with her face to us, and fmote her breaft twice with violence, but at laft perceiving us gazing at her, gave a fhriek, upon which the other two threw their vails over their faces, and fled into the fartheft part of the hut. The 1 woman who fmote her breaft was a very great beauty. She .however had no fooner given the alarm than a Per- a Perfian came briskly towards the gate, in a threatening manner. Then Mr Cherkeffoff, who underftood their language well, defired me to get ready a piftol : I did ib, as did he, and this put a ftop to his fury ; he then ftood and delired us to be gone, telling us that in Perfia, it was looked upon in a very ih1 light to be gazing upon other men's wives. Mr Cherkeffoff and he argued the matter, and I believe we parted good friends. Mr Cherkeffoff faid, that he believed that the Woman who fmote her breaft wras a Chriftian, and probably bewailed her condition : If me was, fhe was much to be pitied, and if Ihe had made her retreat to our camp, I am Perfuaded fhe would have been protected. When we had paffed the city, we rode °Ver a very high mountain, and with f°me difficulty led our horfes clown the f°tith fide, where it was very fteep, and Scamped upon the fide of a frefh water take. The Prince and dragoons were ob-Jiged to go a conliderable way about, by the n°tth end of this hill ; becaufe it was impoffible for his coach to drive over it. As we *ea*C coming down the hills, we faw about fou-r hundred women, riding from a city Cahed Salian to the Perfians who efcorted us. *t was laid that they were foldiers wives ; °ut I rather believe they were lewd women, Who, for a fman taXj are permitted to be any man's bed-fellow, and protected by the government vernment in Perfia ; but we were told, that they were obliged to offer their fervices to Shach's army when it happened to pais any city where they lived. We acquainted the prince, that we had feen a great number of fuch ladies ; upon which he gave orders that the centinels fhould permit none of them to come into our camp in the night-time ; but, a few days had not paffed, when we were well affured that fome of our young men had been familiarly acquainted with fome of them that night ; and the greateft part of them returned to Salian early next morning* We travelled from this on the i 6th, thro' a very low fandy foil, nearly north north* weft, having palled through all the mountains of Caucafus. We ftill kept the other fide of the fame mountains on our right hand, and moralfes and lakes on our left; here was great variety of game. We encamped, having travelled more than twenty verfts, on the fide of a lake, where were very man/ antelopes and wild fwine. On the 17th, we proceeded from this »* bout eight o'clock A. M, twenty-four verft5 only through a dirty deep clay ground, which fatigued our camels and horfes e%' ceedingly, and encamped on the eaft fide of the fame marfli 1 fpoke of yefterda/f which now put on the appearance of a great river. We fet up our tents up011 a riling ground, from whence, the atnio' fphere being very ferene, we got a view °* the frozen hoary tops of fome of the higheft hills in Caucafus, of which a prince, named Shymei is Lord, and reigns independent of any other, and has hitherto been unconquer* able. Nadir Shach difdained the advice given him by his experienced generals, and the wifeft of bis counfel, who endeavoured to diffuade him from profecuting a project he had formed to reduce this chieftain, who, at no time, is able to take the field with an army exceeding five thoufand men. In vain did they reprefent the ffupenduous height and dangerous fteepnefs of thefe frozen headed hills, die imponibility of procuring provifions for men, and of taking the fmalleft artillery with them ; the unfurmountable difficulties in palfing fuch precipices of froft, well defended againft all oppofition by many impregnable forts, and the hardieft people in the world, inured from their infancy to all hardfhips, accounting difficulties and dangers delightful, who not only with eafe bafled all attempts formed againft them by his great predeceffor, Abbas the Great, but had the re-folution to gaul his own armies whenever they palled this way. Their arguments availed nothing; he had humbled the Turks, conquered India, Bucha-ria, and Chiva, and was determined to humble, or annihilate the race of Shymei: That he might be an eye-witnefs of the bravery of his troops, and have die direction of every thing thing needful, he put himfelf at the head of twenty thoufand of his belt men, and mounted the hills; but returned in about four or five days thereafter, with fcarcely four thoufand men, in great mifery, being wounded, benumbed, quite fatigued, and ftarved with hunger. On the 18th, we profecuted our journey through deep clay ground, and after we had paffed by three villages in ruins, and a few inconfiderable brooks, we encamped upon the fouth-eaft fide of the new Sbamachee. Nadir Shach had deflroyed old Sbamachee, fituated fifteen verfts amongft the hills to the north-eaft, and built this new town. We travelled north-weft by north twenty verfts this day in a continued rain. We remained in this camp till the 28th, The remaining part of this day was taken up In fecuring our tents with ropes, and making fmall trenches about every one of them, to protect us from the violence of wind and rain, to which we very foon experienced this place very fubjecl. Thofe who did not follow the advice given, had their tents thrown down, and thofe who did not form a fmall trench about their tents, in a fhort time, were obliged to fit or ly upon the wet floor, and fometimes the water ran down the declining green plain in fuch a quantity, that it would have reached above one's ancles. Such heavy fudden TRAVEL S. 39! fudden rains are only to be feen here and in Giland. C II A P. XXVIL A Defcription of Sbamachee t and an Account of what happened till we paffed the Cura* THIS Sbamachee is a very new city, one of Nadir Shach's building, diftant, as we Were told, fifteen verfls only from old Sha-ntachee. It is fituated on the fouth fide of Caucafus, immediately under the hill, on a plain ground, in form of a parallelogram. The fouth and north fides of the high brick Walls are flrcngthened by ten baftions each, diftant the one from the other forty paces. Without the brick wall was a high rampart of earth, and a broad ditch almoft filled up with naftinefs. The eaft and weft fides are ftrengthened by nine baftions each. No cannon are mounted on the walls. Three principal ftreets run from fouth to north in Ilraight lines : They are but narrow, all pa-ved, and interfered by a number of fmall tanes, at right angles, from eaft to weft. A large fquare is formed in the middle of the ctty for their market-place, in which we faw a very few fmall iron cannons. This city was more populous than both Derbent and Baku put together, and yet I imagine there are are few villages in Scotland, confiding of orie hundred houfes, which are not more populous than it was, and this was but of fhort duration. We law not a good houfe in the whole city, and but a few miferable caravan-farays. The city is inhabited by a very few Perfians, Armenians, Georgians, Indians, and Tartars. The day before we left this place, in company with Mr Bernhour, Dr Lerch* Mr Raafe, an interpreter, and a few of our dragoons, having obtained leave of the prince, I vifited this city, and found it to anfwer the above defcription. As We paffed through the ftreets, we faw the diftrefted inhabitants, amongft whom were the principal merchants, marked with various appearances of mifery. Some were feverely baftinadoed on the foles of the feet; others were fitting on the fides of the ftreets, with their necks inclofed in triangles of wood, and their right hands fecured in a hole made at one of the angles, referved for the like torture. Every one of them complained of want and hunger; and all this cruelty, horrid to human nature, was inflicled to extort from them more money than they could poflibly raife. We, being very much fatigued with walking, went into a caravanfara, and entered a filver-fmith's fliop. The poor people, Armenia ans, offered us each a drink of excellent water* ter, which was moil agreeable to us. As we could not fpeak but by an interpreter, the people were my to give an account of the cauie of all this cruelty, but told us that ma-ny of the inhabitants had fealed up their ft ops and fled, as they thought to the mountains : They faid, that the Perfians feldom dellroyed feals, though they made no hefita-fiou to break open locks. When we were fitting there, a very reverend like old Arme-n'an merchant, with a gray beard, came to Us, and, in good Ruilian language, entreated us to go into his fliop, where it was more convenient to eafe our wearied limbs. We followed him, at which he expreffed great fa-tisfaaion. We were no fooner feated, than he ordered a young man to dig the ground in the nficldle of the fliop. About a foot deep, he difcovered the cover of a large earthen jar ; he carefully took the earth away, and a cement which joined it to the body ; thefe impediments being removed, in a large flag-Son, he prefented us with the moft agreeable l'ed wine I ever tailed, and, in my opinion, 110 Burgundy was comparable to it, far exceeding any wine I had ever tailed ; even, in pur opinion, fhirafs, the moft famed wine m Perfia, was nothing in comparifon to it. ^ very fmall quantity of this, being a rich cordial, not only made us foon forget our fatigue, but inlpired us with brifknefs and D d d courage courage enough to apprehend no danger and rifk any thing. The old Armenian alfo regaled our dragoons plentifully, but he drank very little : He faid, that he had made this wine from dried grapes about four years before we came there, and was very well pleafed that it was fo good, faying, that he never had opened the head of the jar fince it was firft cemented. When our landlord obferved that the wine had warmed our fenfes, he told us that he properly was a Ruflian fubjecl, having been born in Aftrachan, but that he had been long in Perfia ; that he was in great danger of being feized and tortured by the Periians ; that hitherto he had cfcaped their tyranny, by declaring that he was a Ruffian fubjecl, and would claim the protection of the Ruflian ambaffador ; but, he faid, that after the ambaflador was gone, they would put their threats in execution, and he could by no means get out of the city, the two gates of which, one was on the fouth and the other on the north, were kept ft deity watched day and night, to prevent any of the inhabitants from making their efcape. We having heard what he had to fay, pro-mi fed to take him to our camp. This being what he much deiired, he put up fome valuable things, locked and fealed his door ; and having given fome direclions to his fet" vant, went with us. At At the gate the Perfians attempted to lay-hold of him. Our dragoons, by the cap-ta a's order, drew their broad fwords, and food on their defence. At fir ft they knocked down a few of them with their fwords, and the reft let us pafs. The interpreter told them, that he was a Ruffian fubjecl, go-lng to pay hisrefpccls to the ambaffador. Next morning a complaint was made °f our behaviour. The ambaflador protected the man, but privately reproved us. and difcharged us from intermeddling in the peoples affairs for the future, though he ^vas not ill pleated, after we had informed him of every thing which we obferved. Loud complaints having been made by tne ambaffador againft Ami Rufslan Khan, and the governor of Derbent to Nadir Shach, who was now quelling a formidable rebellion ^hich had broke out in Kir mania, on the f°uth of Perfia; thefe complaints were fent to him by our Captain Poffet, who returned he-re in company with Kulipha chief prieft of ^eriia, and one of the Shach's principal c°unlellors, who had formerly refided many Vears ambaflador from Perfia at the court of ^c Peterfburgh, and fpoke the Ruifian language tolerably. This Kulipha condemned che fardar and governor's conducl, disapproving of every thing they had done ; teJl-the prince, that no better could have been expected expected from them, feeing they were no better than Ifhecks, which is the molt dif-refpectful word in Perfia; and the perfon who ufes the exprellion is underftood to hold them, of whom he fpeaks, in the ut-moft contempt ; it fignifying affes. Kulipha faid, that they were intrepid, refolute foldiers, which was the reafon that the Shach had railed them to fuch high ftations ; but that an order was making out to put the go* vernor to death, for having caufed murder the Ruifian Circaflian, formerly taken notice of. He promiled, on his part, to find the prince and his retinue in every thing, as far as was in his power ; but with a clowncaft countenance faid, that Perfia was in mourning: and acknowledged the impoifibility of providing for fuch a brilliant embalfy, from fo glorious a monarch as the Emprels of Ruflia* in the manner he could have wilhed : And concluded by faying, that the Shach would not fail to manifeft his goodnefs, by the great prefents which he was defigned to make to the prince, and alfo to his followers. ffe then produced, as he faid, a letter from the Shach to the ambaffador, inclofed in a green filk purle, wrought with gold ; placed it on his forehead, as a mark of the greateft re* fpecT, and offered it to the prince, who would not touch it, but defired Kulipha to lay it on the table, faying that he had been informed informed that the Sophies of Perfia ufed to fend orders and different kinds of mandates to foreign ambaffadors ; but that he was a plenipotentiary, and reprefented the perfon of the Emprefs, and was determined never to receive any orders, unlefs he Was fo commanded by his own Emprefs; and ended his difcourfe by faying, that he Would fooner lofe all above his fhoulders than fubmit to fuch indignity : And thus they parted. Next morning, before we proceeded on our journey, the prince fent for Kulipha, and warmly reproached him, for endeavouring to deceive him at the very firft interview ; telling him, that it was no letter, but a mandate ; and ordered him to take it up, and make what ufe of it he pleafed ; alluring him, that none had touched it, except his fecretary ; and in a ferious manner, forbade him to behave fo for the future. This weighty affair being ended, we fet out from Sbamachee on the 28th of February, and travelled only fifteen verfts fouth, through a marfhy plain, and encamped on the banks of a dirty brook. March ift, we fet out at eight o'clock A. 1V1. and travelled only fifteen verfts farther, over a fandy foil, not being able to proceed through a morals till the roads were repaired, and encamped on the banks of the fore-mentioned brook, and fide of die morals. Here we found great variety of game. This day we were informed, that, in the night-time, after we left Sbamachee, the Lef-gees entered that city without reliitauce, and carried off all the miterable inhabitants, and their effects, to their country, leaving only the governor, and about fifty foldiers, frightened, in a ftrong place of the city : That the inhabitants had privately follicited their afliflance, and had readily opened the north gate to them. At night our Armenian having bought a horfe, departed from us to the lulls, to look after his ail airs. On the 2d we could only with difficulty pafs over this morals, the roads were ib very bad, and fpent the reft of this day in hunting, and killing pheafants. I mud here remark, that the Perfians entertained a high opinion of our dexterity in {hooting. They have no notion of fmall Ihot, and imagined that we killed fowls flying with a iingle ball ; and I doubt not but the fear of our fire-arms kept them in order. We took care never to let them fee how we loaded our pieces. If the prince had not put on great refolu-tion, and ordered his own officers to fuper-intend the work of making a btidge through the deep morals, we might have been ffar-ved ; for provifions were very fcarce. Some of the Perfian chiefs had put on ordinary cloaths, to.prevent being known, in order to to direcT: the workmen. Of this the prince no fooner got notice, than he placed a ftrong guard of dragoons on both lides of the moral's, with orders to let none off the work till all was finifhed. He declared at the fame time, that if any injury happened to our heavy carriages, by the infufftciency of the roads, lie would caufe the overfeers to be thrown into the lake. By this menace we had a very good road completed in one clay, paffed through it in the evening, and lodged on the other fide. On the 3d we proceeded on our journey only fifteen verfts farther, and encamped oil the northern banks of the famous river Cura, Where was a dangerous floating bridge of timber fixed by an iron chain, made fail on both fides of the river. Upon the north fide of this river the Shach had built a fquare caftie of brick, only fun-dried, as all his caftles which I have feen were. The defign of this was, to curb the Lefgee Tartars, and as a granary to keep provifions in for the Ufe of his army. It was a place of no ftrength, and every way infuflicient. We travelled through an even low niarfhy ground, upwards of thirty verfts through fome woods and great fields of reeds. Some kali,abfynthium} and Artemifia, were the.only Herbs we faw here ; but we difcovered a thorny lhrub, with withered apples upon it, containing three or four feeds in each. I preferved preferved fome of thefe feeds. We were told that the Perfians dye their lilk of a fine red colour with a decocfion of the root of this fhrub. We now had grafs in abundance for our horfes. In many places this road through reeds was fo deep, that we rode in mud and water above the horfes belly. On the 4th we croffed this miferable floating bridge, and palfed by a few houfes, and a caftie on the other lide : At a fmall diftance from them, Nadir Shach caufed build a pyramid about five fathoms high ; on the out-fide of which were placed in fo many notches, at equal diftances, exactly two hundred and eighty-two mens heads, with their faces bending forwards, not much decayed, but their beards were fome what withered : They were the heads of the chiefs who had rebelled againft the Shach, in the following manner : A young fellow, who kept an ordinary at Ardevil, having been guilty of fome petty crime, for which the Shach ordered his ears to be cut off, defert-ed that country. This fellow went to Old Sbamachee, and gave himfelf out for the foil of the late Shach Tahmafp, to whom the inhabitants of Shamachee, and the neighbourhood, reforted. He having got an army of fome thoufands, made head againft the Shach, who then lay encamped near the place where the monument flood. The Shach fent an army, who foon cut them to pieces, pieces, feized the pretended earlefs prince, and two hundred and eighty-two of his fol* lowers, the principal inhabitants of Sbamachee, whofe heads he caufed cut off, and place in this pyramid. Their princ , however, he caufed baffinadoe, and let him go, to make more work for him j but this rebellion was the caufe of the ruin of Old Sha-niachee. It is faid that this very fellow heads the prefent rebellion in Georgia, againft which Ami Ruflan Khan is lent. After we paffed the bridge, we marched a-bout three verfls farther up the fouth fide of the river, and encamped on the banks of the Arras. The Arras and Cura join their ftreams, about half a mile above the bridge-Here we lay encamped eleven days, where We had nothing to do but take our diver-fion in hunting and fowling daily. At Baku we loft one of our writers, who died very fuddenly of an iliac paifion. We loft on the " road between Baku and Sbamachee one of our principal carpenters, who at Baku was taken ill of the fame difeafe, and in two c^ys thereafter ended in a mortal bloody flux, which deprived him of life on the road. On the 6th our principal cook was feized with the fame difeale, but recovered, by injecting ftrongly the fumes of tobacco, after all other attempts had failed. E e e On On the i oth I was feized with the fame difeafe, which kept me in the greateft torment, frequently fainting for forty-eight hours, which was fucceeded by a bloody flux, from which I recovered with difficulty. At the point of land where the Arras and Cura join their ftreams, were two miferable little villages, the only two which I faw inhabited fince we left Baku. We no fooner arrived than the Perfian foldiers tortured the inhabitants fo cruelly, that they deferted their villages, wives, and children at once. It was thought that they fled to the rebels. The Cura, called Cur, or Cyrus, rifeth in Georgia, and different countries in the Cau-cafus, and running fouth and fouth-eaft, joins its ftreams with the Arras, by others called Araxes, at the place already defcribed, and run together eaft into the Cafpian Sea. Arras fprings from fome hills in Turcomania, or Armenia Major, and gliding by Erzerum, continues to fend its ftream, plentifully fto-red with various fifti, eaft, where it joins with the Cura. The plains of Mogan are faid to be about a hundred verfts broad, front fouth to north, reaching from the foot of Taurus to the fouth fide of Caucafus, and more than a hundred verfts from the hills on the weft, till bounds are fixed to it on the eaft by the Cafpian Sea, the middle and beft country of ancient Media. We were tokl that that the Kings of Perfia bred their befl horfes here; and that thefe plains were formerly inhabited by roving people living in tents, as the Kalmucks do in Aftrachan ; and that upwards of a hundred thoufand tents were in thefe happy plains when Kouli Khan mounted the throne of Perfia. Indeed we paffed by, in our way to Gilan, two or three of the laft going to fettle, by order of the tyrant, in the province of Choraffan. The day after we encamped upon the Arras, two couriers arrived from Kizlaar to the prince : They reported, that the revolt at Shamachee was certain : That they came o-Ver the hills by Old Shamachee, and were intercepted by a party of the rebels, who took their horfes and arms from them, but did them no other injury. They convoyed them fafely to within ten verfts of the place Where we were encamped, and faid, that they intended no harm to the ambaffador, nor any of his retinue ; and that if they Were fuccefsful, they would liberally pay for the horfes and arms, which neceffity alone forced them to take from them. They never ahked for money, nor any other thing. CHAPJ CHAP. XXVIII. greats of our Journey from Cura to Refljd, ON the 14th, in the evening, the good prince came late into my tent, to alk after my health. He fat down on my bed, and having difmifTed every one, told me, that he had received advice from Kulipha, that the Shach's army was much diftreffed by the rebels; had loft a battle, was not far from where we were ; and was retreating before them : That Kulipha was of opinion, it would pafs the Cura in a day or two, where they would endeavour to make a Hand ; and that therefore Kulipha prefled him by all means to march next morning. He afked me, What I thought I could do? I anfwered, that though I was recovered of the iliac paflion, my bowels were in fuch pain, that I did not think I could bear the motion of a wheel machine; and my flrength was fo much diminifhed, that I could not ride : That therefore I was of opinion the prince fliould leave me to the care of the poor people in the two wretched deferted villages, formerly mentioned, between the Arras and Cura 3 and that he would be pleafed pleafed to take what value I had with me for my wife and child, in cafe I did not recover. I obferved, that J had no apprehenfion, that either the Shach's people or the rebels would do me any harm. The good prince took me by the hand, and faid, he never would leave me there ; becaufe that the poor people's neceffities were fo very urgent, that it was probable they would kill me for the very cloaths I bad upon me. He therefore advifed me to make trial of his coach, my Heeping waggon having been left at Baku, which he would caufe put in the bell order for placing my bed. I defired him to do What he pleafed, faying, that I was determined to obey : Wherefore, On the 15th of March, at eight o'clock A. M. we decamped, and marched through a plain country, covered with long rich grafs, foutlveaft, twenty-fix verfls ; paffed fcveral rivers, and lodged upon the fouth fide of a branch of the Cura. On the 16th we fet out, and travelled through plain rich fields, about thirty-feven °r forty verfts fouth-eaft. Here were many *hiaU herbs, fome of them in bloom. The account I give till the 20th of March I was obliged to Dr Lerch and my brother for it, hecaufe my fituation would not permit me to Write till that day, and even then but very imperfectly. We encamped on the north-weft weft fide of a marftiy ground, where was a frefh water lake. On the 17th we travelled through a plain* rich with grafs and dwarf brier, fouth-weft eight verfts, having moraftes and reeds on our left. We paffed a fmall river, and marched fouth-eaft twelve verfts farther; paffed another river by a bridge, and encamped on the fouth fide of it. This country abounds with grafs, growing fo luxuriously, that I believe one acre would be fufli-cient for three horfes ; amongft which grew many herbs, fome in flower. Dr Larch had marked ?neum, limonium> flffs Adonis, pimpinel* la alba, mentha aquatica, and many other kinds. From Shamachee to Arras our fick in-creafed daily: They were carried in litters; the compliment, as yet, do not begin to de-creafe. We buried at Baku one who died of the iliac paffion, one on the road to Shamachee of a dyfentery, and at Shamachee one of the iliac palfion ; of which difeafe, or rather its effects, the maftcr cook and I were in hopes of a fafe recovery. On the i8ch, we marched from thence fouth by eaft, through a plentiful pafture-land, fixteen verfls. We paffed feven rivulets, and encamped on the banks of the laft, full of clear water: Here is a miferable village called Infhka; the grafs, amongft which were were many herbs, was movable; for in many places it reached above the horfes bellies. On the 10th, we travelled through the richeit fields probably in the whole world : We law in many places the evident figns of hufbandry, but at prefent quite delerted. We palled through two large villages, one of them about twTo verfls broad, where we faw many good houfes built like ours in Europe, covered with tiles, of two ftories high, and m no bad order; but in both thefe villages ^e did not fee one inhabitant, nor a tame head. We encamped upon the banks of a river called Kifili, being the 7th we palfed this day, though wre only marched feventeen verfts. One of our dragoons died of a dy-fontery. Our fick lift does not decreafe. On the 20th, I mounted on horfeback, and we marched through a country plentiful every thing buc mankind : Though we had no rain, this country was ve-TY moid, and in many places marfhy. After we had travelled twenty verfts, we en-camped near a village called Mogan, having Palled three rivulets: We are now not far from hills fouth-eaft from us. On the 21 ft, we were obliged to remain We. The governor of Ardevii had tranfported us to this place, being the limits of his government; nor would he go any farther. Our maymandar, or provifor-general, with the new Khan, attempted to force the Ardevii vil people to affift; a battle enfued, which ended to the advantage of the people of Ar-devil, who killed fix, and wounded many of their enemies mortally, though they alfo loft fome. Both parties fent to the prince, but he would not interpofe, though we were truly in a very miferable condition, not having received any provifions for two days bypaft, and little profpect of getting any thing but plenty of promifes, not to be depended upon. On the 2 2d, We were obliged to remain where we were: This roufed the prince from his exceflive goodnefs. He now fent to their chiefs and let them know, that, if they did not bring horfes and provifion by next morning, he would ufe them in a way they little dreamed of, which, for the fake of their wives and families, he defired they would prevent. This menace, efpecially as our dragoons and foldiers were obferved to put their arms in order, had the defired effect; for in the afternoon we received provifions for all our men. On the 23d, we fet out through marflry grounds, and woods of very tall trees, in which grow many fruit-trees. We paffed through many large villages, but very few* inhabitants. We travelled on high earthen roads much decayed : Thefe roads were made by Abbas the Great, for the conveniency of marching his army and caravans. We encamped camped on the north fide of a channelly river called Lankran, diftant about twenty miles from our laft camp. On the 24th, we travelled fouth, along the fea-fhore, upon very deep fands, the country being impaffable between this road and the Hircanian mountains, by reafon of deep marQies and thick woods, in which grow a Variety of fruit-trees,fuch as oranges, citrons, pomegranates, &c. We having travelled a-bout twenty verfts, encamped upon the fide of a lake. On the 25th, we continued to march fouth Upon the fhore, which was very deep, being fluxible fands, extremely fatiguing to our cattle. We croffed a large deep river in boats, but the camels forded it with difficulty. We at laft forded a fmall channelly river called Aftara, where we encamped, having travelled about twenty verfts. Near the camp is the capital of the province of Aftara, where the governor lives. We were told, that Nadir Shach referved this governor without degrading him, being the only inftance, in all Perfia, of his lenity to a noble family; the caufe of which, we were informed, proceeded purely from this,that he was a fool; however, he was as greedy, bale, and villainous, as any of the Shach's followers; and the poor people under his orders experienced as cruel F f f treatment treatment as any in Perfia, being reduced to the moft extreme mifery. We were obliged to remain in Aftara this clay, being the 26th, becaufe the governor could not procure cattle to remove our baggage. In the afternoon the prince took horle, and, in company with fome of his gentlemen, rode up the lide of the river to vilit an old fquare fort under the hills, built formerly by the Ruffians; it was in ruins, but I imagine could very foon be repaired. As we were riding towards the hills, a female fcreamed out behind us: This unfortunate young woman had been carried away from her parents, and was on horfeback behind an Ulbeck Tartar, who palled by us as faft as the horfe could run; the poor creature did not item to exceed twelve or thirteen years of age; (lie cried pitifully, but kept faft hold of the man: If ihe had courageoufly dropped from the horfe, we would have refcued her, which we could do no other way. Some of our gentlemen propofed to (hoot the Tartar, but the prince would not permit them. We were informed, that the Uf becks frequently carried off their daughters, or wives, to the hills, where they lived with them a few days, and, after their appetites were iatiated, frequently killed them, left them, or, if they could get a merchant, fold them; and this Was one kind of Nadir's military execution. At At our return the Khan fent his compliments to me, and defired that I would let him fee a pinchbeck watch, -with its cafe cu-rioufly cut, which I intended to difpofe of, and fent him notice of the lowefl price. I gave the watch to an interpreter, whom I knew, and knew to be a villain; yet I imagined that he durll not offer to cheat me: The interpreter promifed either to bring back the watch, or forty mildcnaars immediately, but he brought neither. I demanded juflice of the prince; he, for once, defired to be excu-fed, and intreated me never to truft them ^'ith any thing. This I did not take in good part; I thought that I had deferved the prince's protection, and told him as much, but went out of his prefence with a refolution never to afk it again. Next morning We had orders to march, and the Khan was obliged to convoy us to the borders of his province, and deliver us fafely off to the governor of the next province. Accordingly we fet out at nine o'clock, A. M. and marched through very bad roads, through woods, and fometimes by the fea-fhore, twenty verfts; and, much fatigued, encamped upon a fmall plain, on the 27th of March. On the 28th, we fet out very early, and travelled through fuch roads as we had experienced yelterday. We crofled over five ri* vers, and many brooks with very high banks* Some Some of our company travelled all night,and others did not get up to us till one o'clock, P. M. on the 2*9th; confequently we were obliged to remain encamped all that clay. We killed many pheafants and other fowl, and got fome very large oranges and citrons. We faw fome fmall villages, but few inhabitants, and all in very great diftrefs. The Khan fent back my watch, which I would not receive, fufpecYmg that he had probably rendered it ufelefs. We marched on the fea-fhore r 5 verfls, on the 30th; nor could \vc proceed farther, our cattle being fo much fatigued. Laft night two of our horfes were carried off by the inhabitants; for which the prince caufed ieize the Khan's four beautiful young camels ; nor would he deliver them till the Khan had paid the value of the horfes which were loft. We travelled on the 31ft only fifteen verfls farther, the roads being extremely fandy and deep, having the fea on the eaft, and impenetrable woods, marfhes, or high Hircanian hills on the weft. We croffed eight rivulets, and encamped on the banks,on the oth,where we catched flore of excellent fifh. April ill, we now marched upon a large ' paved road, the work of Abbas, with deep ditches on both fides, through marfhy ground, covered over with woods; the vines climbing every where upon the trees; from the grapes of which good wine is produced. This day we croffed many rivulets, and ruinous villages ges, and encamped upon a plain. The Khan paid at the rate of thirty mildenaars per horfe; and the prince ordered to reftore his camels; but my friend Mr Cherkeffoff, who tranfadfed all affairs with them, fent word that forty mildenaars were {fill wanting, for a watch which he had got from me: It feems he could not fend the money in filver, according to our agreement, but fent twenty-two fmall ducats, and twTo double Roman ducats. Hup, the interpreter, told me, that the twenty-two ducats were equal in value to forty mildenaars; but having got poffefliort of the twenty-two fmall, and two double ducats, I put them in my pocket, and told him, that if he delivered me forty mildenaars any time in the fpace of eight days, I fliould return him all the gold; but Igot leave to keep it. We travelled about twenty verfls this day. On the 2d, we travelled through many Woods of tall trees, directing our courfe fouth fouth-eafl. We croffed fixteen large and fmall rivers, and at lafl.encamped in a town called Kefhkeer, where we faw a great num-her of Ufbeck Tartars, quartered upon the much oppreffed inhabitants, to raife contri-hutions for the Shach. They had orders to live at difcretion; but I was told, that they behaved with no fuch rigour as they did m Aftara. This is the nrfl town in the province of Gilan. Here is an old fort huilt by the Ruffians. This was formerly a rich 4*4 VOYAGES a ri rich country, producing great quantity of filk; and the greateft part of the inhabitants were filk-weavers. They ftill continue to cultivate filk, but the bulk of the weavers are fled or killed. We relied on the 3d, being out of danger" of the rebels, who caufed us to march with fuch precipitation from the banks of the Cura. Ori the 4th, we marched about twenty verfts fouth-eafl, through a pleafant country* by many rich rice fields, gardens,and woods* and encamped upon the banks of a pleafant river. We croffed fundry rivulets over ftone bridges. On the 5th, we proceeded fbuth-eaft, and croffed two rivers and a lake, upon a high broad dyke, and encamped on the fouth-eaft corner of'the lake, in the neighbourhood of Refhd, after a fhort journey of fifteen verfts. We were welcomed into Gilan by the Ruifian conful at Kefhkcer, who, though formerly my patient, was very refervcd to me, on account of fome quarrel he had with my countrymen, the merchants refiding in Refhd. This day arrived alfo Meffrs Tbompfbn, W7ilder, Bardewick, and Myrop; they gave me a relation of their difputes with our conful, and of his tyranny towards his countrymen the Ruifian merchants; of all which I did not fail to acquaint the prince, who feemed feemed to know more about him than I imagined he did, I told the prince, that the Britifh merchants had come lb far to pay their refpecls to him, and, if agreeable to his excellency, to convoy him to Refhd: The prince defired me to introduce them to him. They met with a very polite reception, which could not fail to be very difagreeable to our upitart conful, advanced from a common writer. Mr Backunin, for that was his name, underftood the Turkifti and Perfian languages well, by which means he was thought to be well qualified to be conful at Kefhd; but, having fprung from the very dregs of the Ruffians, he could let no bounds to his pride ; he lorded it highly over his countrymen, whom he had opprefled much, and ruined many. Not fatisfied with this,he Wanted alfo to opprefs the Britifh, but lie was much miftaken in that; and the ambaf-ftdor's arrival put a flop to all his power. On the 6th, we made our public entry into Pvefhd; and the Britifh merchants defiring to accompany the cavalcade, were appointed to ride immediately after Mr Cherkeffoff and the conful, and were alfo invited to dine 5V|th the prince, which was extremely dilagreeable to Backunin. Refhd is the capital °f the province of Gilan ; it lies in north latitude thirty-fix degrees, thirty minutes, eaft longitude fifty-two degrees. The province Pf Gilan is but fmall, but extremely rich; its its produce is filk: It is in the form of a cref-cent; the hills on the eaft, fouth, and weft, furround two thirds of it, and the fea waflies the north fide. The foil is fo rich, that in it can grow any thing luxuriantly. Many medicinal herbs are here, particularly that producing ajja foctida. Redid is diftant about feven verfts fouth from Peribazar, the port of Gilan; from thence goods are fent down a fmall river in lhallow boats three verfts, into a great lake, about fixteen or eighteen miles over, and of which there runs an opening into the fea, fuflicient for veflels of fmall burden: The ground forming the weft fide of that inlet, is called Enzelee, or Zinzelee. CHAP. XXIX. Concerning what happened during our Stay ift Rejhd and Enzilee. TH E prince was lodged in the Shach's palace; and Mr Cherkeffoff and I were lodged in the women's apartments, adjoining to a noble bagnio, where Shach Abbas caufed murder his fon. A very few days after we were fettled here, many complaints were given into the prince's hands againft Backunin, and the prince orderedincmifition to be made; but Mr Backunin pretending fickneis, pllt a ft op to it at prefent. He went on in his fick-nefs a long while, fometimes taking the fa-lament, for we had two priefts with us; and fometimes extreme unction; one day a little better, and next day at the point of death, ar*d frequently attended by Dr Lerch, who took care of him. One day I went with the britifh merchants to Refhd river, to fee Mr ^lirop take fifh with a net of a lingular make, ^e had not been long there till the confufs c°ach was fent fbr, at which I was not a lit-'J6 furprifed, nor did I care to go, but, pervaded by my countrymen, J yielded. I was introduced into his houfe with fuch aw-Vl filence as furprifed me not a little; and ^hen I afked the reafon of fuch circumlpec-tlon, I was told, that the conful was in the greateft diftrefs and danger. I advanced into the room where he lay in great ftate* It ls enough to fay, that though I have feen the richeft "beds in this country, they all were far fhort of Backunin's. It really furprifed nie much to conceive how a man, who,a few ^ears ago, had no manner of rank in the world, fhould have the vanity to vie in grandeur xvith the greateft princes. I was defied by Mrs Backnnin, a very good woman, Who deferved a far better hufband, with a *°w- voice, to take a feat by Dr Lerch, who ^as attending. I did fo ; and we kept up a °rt of difcourfe by whifpering: At laft this Madman called out, to know if I was arrived? G g g Being Being anfwered in a moft refpeclful manner by his wife, that I was in the room, he or> dered the curtains to be drawn open, and ordered coffee to be ferved up. After this was over, J made aft the pertinent intpiiry I could about the nature of his complaints; but found by his anfwers, that, though he pretended to have many complaints, they pointed out no difeale that I was acquainted with* J therefore went and obferved what informa* tion his pulfe could give me; in doing which I did not fpeak one word, that I might not move his pallions. His pulfe was very regit' lar, and indeed every way well conditioned* When I had done, I took my feat, and directing my difcourfe to the doctor, mad^ fome general obfervations; and expreffed fome furprife that the doctor ftiould dread danger, when Mr Backunin's pulfe was 1° very good; from which, compared with the other obfervations 1 had made, 1 concluded* that Mr Backunin was in no danger; and advifed him not to be difturbed, but take cxercife; and faid, that I had no doubt of hl9 Recovery. Altogether unexpected, he burft into one of the moft violent pafiions poflible, and that I was ignorant, not underlianding nlS difeafe, and that I looked upon him as «* madman. I took my hat, and anfwered* that now he had evidently demonftratecl that }ie was not feeble, nor that he flood in nee" t R A V E L S, 4ro fcf any phyfician ; and thus 1 left him. Mrs Backunin and the doctor, intreated me to Wait a little longer: I begged to be excufed, and would not comply. When I went to the d°or,a poor jade of a horfe was ready for me to mount: I ordered the fellow to put up that horfe for his crazy mailer to ride upon, and in a pour of rain walked home. When I told my good friend Mr Cherkeffoff, how Backunin had treated me; he burft into an exceftive fit of laughter, and begged me to change my cloaths, for my fhirt was wet with *he rain. Mr Cherkeffoif then difappeared ; aod foon thereafter I had a meffage from the Prince to go to him. He interrogated me Ve»*y particularly about Backunin's difeafe ; 3ad I anfwered very pofitively, that he had ftone; that I fufpected the fellow was impo-fiog upon every one of them. The fecretary being prefent, the prince commanded him to make out an order for me, to give a clear rePort of what I judged his complaints to Proceed from,and what difeafe afflicted him. * fcrupled not to enumerate all the queftions * afked him, and what were his anfwers. I then made fome obfervations about what I informed from himfelf and others, con-Ceming tne non-naturals, &c. and conclu- that he had not pointed out any known difeafe; that I had great reafon to believe he in good health, though I fufpected, that, *°r reafons beft known to himfelf, he would have have the world believe, that he was danger-oully lick. The prince no fooner was in polle(11 on of my report, than he ordered o-ther difpatches to be got in readinefs, and that night fent off a courier to the cabinet. Either the fecretary, or fome of his writers, had given Backunin an account of my report, and that it was lent to the cabinet, with o-ther difpatches. Now he pretended to be in a worfe condition than ever, and was fo childifh as to give out, that I had contribu' ted not a little to increafe his complaints, by putting him into paflion : Finding, however, that he was ridiculed and defpiled almoft by every perfon, he again tried to fend for me in his coach, but I would not go. The prince had meffages fent to command me, but 1 prevailed with him not to infill upon it, a* it only gave the vain fool an opportunity to affront me in his own houfe, and probably force me to fpeak rafhly,which I would be foi" ry for at another time. The heat now began to be difagreeable in Refhd. The city, though not large, is fur* rounded with high trees and clofe fields, all covered over with water, where they planted their rice, which rendered the air very healthy; many of the inhabitants were lick* and dying in great numbers. A very tnalig* nant petechial fever had carried off fome 01 our men. The heat was daily increafing> and we had no word from the Shach what to do 5 do ; wherefore the prince determined to encamp at Enzilee, a peninfula, having the fea on one fide, and the great lake on the other. Accordingly we fet out on the 17th of May, rode feven verfls to Peribazar, took boat there, paffed three verfls down the river, croffed the lake, and encamped on Enzilee. Thirteen Rullian Hups were riding here, three of them belonged to the government, and mounted fome fmall cannon. The prince caufed raife a battery upon the neck which formed the peninfula, and placed fome artillery there, which the armed veflels alfo covered ; fo that we were in very great fecuri-ty from any attempts of the rebellious Perfians, who were every where troublefome. Kulipha was alarmed at the prince's fudden, departure. He lent to the prince to beg an audience, and, with the meflenger, a Jefuit prieft named Damian, the fame who fome time ago recovered the Shach of fome ulcer. Damian begged leave to pay his refpeds to the prince, which was granted. The prince pretended fome indifpolition, and was in bed when Damian was introduced. The prince caufed place a chair for him, and foon difcovered that he was fent as a fpy by Kulipha. He had the impudence to make fome enquiry into the prince's complaints, and propofed a quack medicine, which, he pretended, was a preparation of gold that Would foon remove his complaints. The prince, prince, by his polite anfwers, rather encoii* raged this piece of jefuitical impudence. The prince, pointing to me, f?.id, that, at his defire, the Emprefs had ordered me to take care of his health, and that I had been acquainted with his eonftitution ever fince the year 1737; that therefore he was determined to take no advice, nor any medicine, except I approved of it, and concluded by ex-cufing himfelf from any farther converfation at that time. Upon this Damian role, and moflaudacioufly took hold of the prince's arm, with a defign to feel his pulfe ; but in this he was difappomted, for he was feized, turned out of the tent, and fent Ilraight to his boat by a party of foldiers,. with certification, that neither he nor any of the fathers would after this be permitted to come into the pre-* fence of the prince. A few days after this, however, Kulipha arrived, and, after a farce of long prayers to prevent a bad hour, he at lafl was introduced into the prince's prefence. He endeavoured to get the prince perfuaded to return to Refhd, and affured him that he had got plenty of provifions, and that the Shach was on his way to Cho-roffan, where he intended to meet the prince. The prince faid, that Relhd was extremely Unhealthy, as indeed was Enzilee1, and that he had at that time three couriers at the Shach*s camp waiting to know about what time the Shach propofed to be in Mcfchech He He faid, that he would be very glad how foon he could march from Gilan, becaufe a very dangerous malignant fever had already de* ftroyed many of his men fince the hot rainy weather began ; but that if he was truly informed of the Shach's motions, he would fend the prefents, horfes, and dragoons by land to Aftrabat, and would go by fea, which he underftood would be much better for him, as the roads were faid to be very bad, and the country very unhealthy. By the middle of June, the heat and rains, with almoffc continual thunders, were now intolerable, and increafed the number of our lick fo much, that, on the 23d, orders were made out to fend them to Refhd, as their number was about a hundred, and increafing daily, many dying. On the 24th, the prince fent them all a^ way, and followed on the 25th of June. Our mate and all our afliflants were now in the hofpital, fick. I was feized on the 25th, and on the 26th in the morning I dropped down among the fick in the hofpital, was carried to my lodging, and remained fenfelefi till the 2d of July. On the 4th, I was informed by the prince that the Shach was murdered, and that he intended to fet out next morning for Enzi-lee, in order to proceed by fea to Aftrachan. He faid, that he had taken care to fend all iny baggage with \\is own on board ; but I was was very weak : However, no time was to be loft, as this our defign was kept f'ecret from the Perfians, who did not as yet know that their king was dead. My friend Mr Cherkeffoff was left as refident, with all the men who could be fpared, and Dr Lerch. I was carried on board with the greateft care. Capt. Bernhour, and many of our men, died. We were twenty days upon fea, and many of our men in different fhips died on the paflage, who were not fick when we left Perfia. The mortality was fo great, that out of our whole number, which were computed, including fervants, to be about five hundred, fcarcely a hundred returned in found health. We had buried three hundred in Perfia. This difeafe began among the natives, who were by it Coon relieved from the torments of hunger. That day we left Refhd, for as weak as I was, it grieved me much to fee the de-vaftation it had made upon the road, where many dead were lying unburicd, and many expiring, Amongft the number, two were very ftriking : I law an infant fucking its dead mother; and, in a hollow road, I.faW a dead maid, with her hands holding by the root of a tree. It feems fhe died as flie was endeavouring to get out of this hollow road. My brother was taken ill on board our fhip, and hardly efcaped. At our arrival in Ruflia, we reported, that this difeafe was a malignant fever; but, Dr Lerch, Lerch, who had formerly attended plague* hofpitals, did not doubt that it was the plague. As I do not propofe to difappoint the hulk of my readers, in treating of difeafes, in place of travels, 1 fliall only beg pardon for enumerating the moft general lymptoms and duration of this dreadful difeafe. They Were feized fuddenly with a violent pain in their heads, backs, and loins, accompanied with horror and trembling, which lafted with the greateft violence four or five hours, accompanied with exccflive vomiting and pur^ ging, or vomiting and obftinate coftivenefs 3 thefe were attended with a heat very difagree-able to the touch, and a very irregular opprefled pulfe. The urine was very changeable ; fometimes it was as clear as water, fometimes it was *>f a bright red, fometimes no fediment, and at other times turbid and thick. Their diirft was intolerable ; nor was it pollible to quench it 5 the papilla of the tongue, on the fecond and third clay after they were firft feized, grew very long, dry, white, or yellow, then brown, then black. Their eyes were blood-ftiot, arid looked very unclean-like. As long as they Stained their fenfes, they complained of a burning heat in their bowels. Some of them loft their lenfes in an hour, and others retained them longer. The horror feized them °nce, twice, or thrice in twenty-four hours. Sometimes, efpecially in the morning, they H h h had had fome returns of their reafon ; but it was of very fhort duration. Their bodies were covered all over with petechia and anthraxes; fome of them were tortured with inflamed parotids, and others had unquenchable inflammations in the axillary glands. They died on the fifth, feventh, eighth, and a few on the ninth day. This fever was fo infectious, that our numbers of fick, from our fmall command, in-creafed by feven, eight, and nine daily* "When I was taken ill, we had in the hofpital an hundred and fixty, and a few officers. At the beginning, Dr Lerch being of opinion that it was the plague, a difeafe he had been converfant with formerly, advifed blooding * but to our great difappointment, every one of them died foon. We next gave vomits; and the operation was no fooner over than we railed a diaphorefu, which we kept up fol-licitoufly, and feveral were recovered in this way. It is fcarcely credible what numbers of worms were voided, both by flool and upwards. It is remarkable, that the water in Gilan is very much ftored with earthworms, and thofe our men voided were of the fame kind. The prince, fome of our officers, and I, drank no water till it was boiled in earthen veffels and carefully covered up in cool places. As I intend this account of that difeafe for the general good of mankind, I hope the reader, who is poffeffed of humanity* humanity, will excufe it; and I do not care whether he call it the plague or malignant petechial fevers ; but Dr Lerch and I durft not call it the plague, becaufe we might have been obliged to keep quarantine on Tcha-tire Bugori, defart fandy iflands, during the winter, which very probably would have killed us all; as there were no buildings to defend us from the froft. Before we left Perfia, the doctor and I, for thefe reafons, had reported to the prince, that it was a petechial fever; by which means we arrived without flop direclly to Aftrachan. The ambaflador arrived firft, in the fliip which had formerly belonged to the Britiih merchants, and the reft were coming in daily. At laft Dr Lerch, with the remains of his hofpital, arrived on the 23d of September. Mr Cherkelfoff, and a few foldiers, with our crazy conful, remained in Refhd to take notice of the confufions in Perfia, and protecT, ^ much as pofiible, the Ruffian merchants from violence. By this time we got notice, that the ambaflador's arrival was not agreeable to the Emprefs, The court of St Peterfburgh thought that the prince ought firft to have afked and obtained liberty. Upon this the prince represented, that as Nadir Shach was murdered, there remained no government in Perfia, e-Very khan or general making pretentions to the throne; and that very day on which we fet out, out, we had accounts of murders, maffacres, battles, and defolation of all kinds: But that, iaftly, the confufion was fo great, that no pro* virions could be got for the fupport of the few men who remained alive; and that, if he had not taken this ftep, which he did by the advice and figned petition of all his officers, it was very probable that his whole command would have been ftarved before he could have got any provifions from Aflrachan; for none was to be bought in Perfia. This at prefent fatif-fied the court, that neceffity was the true caufe of our return. However, we were commanded to remain in Aftrachan till further orders. Before I make an end of this chapter, I muff inform the reader of a few things which happened in Perfia before and fince we left it, which I could not fo conveniently do fooner. The prince had received orders from court to proceed againft the conful 3 and at the fame time a captain was fent from the garrifon of Aftrachan to officiate as conful in Refhd. The prince was fcarcely arrived from Enzilee, when the conful, having been informed that a captain was come to officiate as conful, came in great ftate, in his fuperb coach, and demanded an audience. This fool was by fome of his friends, made believe that the orders to the prince were very favourable, and that the captain was lent, that he, (Bakunin) might be returned into Ruffia, Ruflia, to anfwer for his tranfacYions there ; where, he did not doubt, that a few presents, from the great funis he had pillaged from the merchants, properly bellowed, Would free him from any farther trouble. The prince was fitting in a great open gallery covered above, all laid over with rich Perfian carpets, except a fmall canal in the middle, full of fmall fifli, and a jet or fpout of water playing in the middle of it, which the Perfians delight in, as it cools the air. Mr Bakunin was defired to walk in ; but his coach was not permitted to enter into the court, which was formed by a very high brick fquare wall, which furrounded the palace at the diflance of about forty fathoms from the houfe. When he had advanced on foot to the head of the flairs, he put off a pair of Perfian flippers, and advanced with fuch*pride, as is only to be feen in Bethlehem Hofpital, or fome fuch place. Upon this occafion he was drefled in a coat of the finefl Perfian velvet; his waiflcoat and breeches were of rich brocade, with a very pretty fword by his fide. He congratulated the prince upon his return to Refhd from Enzilee ; and faid, that he had been informed that he was to be lent to Ruflia, which was fo agreeable news, that it had quite recovered him. The prince anfwered, that be was glad to fee him in good health j That be was indeed to be fucceeded by a very good man, »man, but that he had no orders to fend him into Ruflia ; but, that if he cleared himfelf from the acculations laid againft him, he was to go with the embafly, as fecond fecretary, to Choraffan. This effectually completed his madnefs: He pulled his fword from his iide, and moft difrefpeclfully threw it on the carpet at the prince's feet, telling him, at the fame time, that he now was convinced the prince intended to ruin him, and therefore he voluntarily delivered himfelf up a prifo-ner. The prince ordered an under-ofticer to take charge of him, and conduct him to his houfe, and there keep him in all fafety. When he had advanced to the ftair head, his Perfian flippers were not to be found. Some of our men had thrown them away ; for he was beloved by none but Dr Lerch, He made fome impertinent noife about his flip* pers, but was foon carried oft'by the ferjeant. Upon this occafion Major Berezin reprefent-ed to the prince, before us all, that Bakunin had not only affronted his Highnefs, in a very grofs manner, but the Emprefs alfo, whofe perfon he had the honour to reprcfent ; and therefore begged, that, without lofs of time, Bakunin fhould be brought to a trial by a court-martial, and punilhed with death, as he deferved. The prince fmiled at the major's impetuofity, and took off a light cap, which he then wore for coolnefs, in place of . , a a periwig, and alked the major, If he faw any blood upon his head? The major anfwered in the negative. Then, faid the prince, I thank God, being now old, that my confcience cannot accufe me of having ever been guilty of fhedding human blood ; now I will not begin: If the Emprels is affronted, Ihe is merciful, and has it in her power to punifli him as flie fliall think proper. To this the major replied, which indeed proved very true, that Bakunin would give him a great deal of trouble ; which might be eaiily prevented, by bringing him to a trial, and doing juftice to the Emprefs, and the many poor fufferers whom he had plundered: But the prince made an end of this affair, by commanding filence. After our departure, Ali Kouli Khan, of Whom mention will be made in another place, had declared himfelf Shach, and had gone, after the Shach his uncle's murder, to Mazanderan. At this time the inhabitants °f Gilan were in great fear of a party of rebels, who were advancing into their province from Aftara, upon the fame road we travelled. We left with Mr Cherkeflbff a courier, called Adile, an Armenian, a very facetious fellow ; he knew all the roads very Weh\ At this time the governor and all the Perfians in Gilan were quite difpirited, and knew not what to do. Adile, having Mr cherkeflofFs perminion to ad as he pleafed, went went to the governor, and told him, that if he would grant him the command of the few foldiers who were in the city, not exceeding three hundred, and three pieces of fmall cannon, he* (Adile,) would undertake to fave the province from the rebels, though their number was faid to exceed five thoufand* Adile was conftituted colonel immediately ; and he loft no time in advancing to a river, whofe banks were extremely fteep, except in one place : There he threw up a trench, and placed his cannon, charged with fmall ftiot. It feems, upon this occafion» that Adile conducted affairs very well; he gave out his orders diftinctly, and took care to feize all people travelling, either from or to the rebels; fo that they could have no information of any force fent againft them; and Adile knew well they could not remain in that country long ; becaufe they could get little provifion. They advanced in a very carelefs manner, and happened to come up to Adile's trench in a morning, before it was very light, fufpecting no danger. Adile let then* advance, and ordered his men to fire upon them only with their mufkets. The rebels advanced in great numbers ; when he dif" charged his cannon upon them with fu^1 judgment, that he killed great numbers, and forced the reft to fly the field. He purfued them, and made fuch havock, that Gilan was no no more troubled from that quarter. He no fooner arrived in Refhd, victorious with fome prifoners, than an account of bis victory was fent to Ali Kouli Khan, who fent for him, conftituted him a colonel, and prelent-ed him with a caftan, kingjal, and fabre; which I faw when he returned to Ruflia. He gave him alio a very con fide rable fum of money ; how much, I do not remember. Before we left the coaft of Perfia, Kuli-pha's fervants, after having robbed him, de-ferted. He petitioned the prince to cany him into Ruflia; but this he would not do. However, he ordered Mr Cherkeffoff to give him provifions, and take him under his protection* About this time fome rebels entered the province by the Cafbine road, and carried Off all our horfes, who were feeding under the mountains. They did no hurt to a few dragoons, who were attending the horfes. I loft my befl horfe, having fold the reft in Refhd for a trifle. The prince, however, ordered payment to be made for it, foon after I came to Hamilton. I am next to give an account of the British merchants efcape out of Perfia. It relates both to them and Mr Cherkeffoff, and is a very dilagreeable task to me; however the reader fliall have it as I had it. A few days before we left Perfia, the Britiih factors waited upon the Prince, and, I being I i i interpreter, interpreter, expreffed much uneailnefs at the prefent diftracted affairs in Perfia, and their fear of being involved in troubles, both in refpect to their perfons and their employers goods; they therefore begged that his Highnefs would advife them what to do. The Prince anfwered, that he was not a proper perfon to advife them what to do : But that he would protect them as long as he was there. He faid, that if they intended to go for Aflrachan, he would order one fhip at a reafonable charge, to tranfport part of their effects, and that he would order every fhip to take a (hare of what Ihould remain ; but by no means would he offer to direct them : He faid, that after they had confidered the orders fent them by their conftituents, he thought that they ought to be the proper judges of their own affairs. They returned the Prince thanks for his goodnefs, and told him that they were determined to remain a little longer. After we were gone fometime in January 1748, the city of Redid was attacked by a body of rebels: The Britifh merchants fled, as I was informed, for protection to Mr Cherkeffoff, who readily granted them all the aififfance in his power, and fent them fafety to a fhip, with what money they coukl take with them. They left however in their warehoufes, it was faicl, fome money, and a <-argo of valuable goods, great part of which which fell a prey to the rebels; whereof a right account, I imagine, never was procured by the merchants at home. It is acknowledged at all hands that the Britiih merchants at this time loft upwards of eighty thoufand pounds value: Which value might have been laved if the factors had left Redid when we left it : The prince gave them a promife, and certain I am he would have performed it, to affift them with fhipping and other-wife to the utmoft of his power. If they had put their goods on board a fhip at En-zilee, the London merchants could have been no great lofers. When we left Perfia, every thing in that country was in the utmoft confufion ; the gentlemen in Refhd were not ignorant of it, which was the reafon of their alking the prince's advice what they were to do? The prince Was ready to allift them, but would not venture to give advice in affairs which concerned him not, nor did he underftand fuch affairs. Mr Cherkeffoff, a man whom I was Well acquainted with fince the year 1740, was accufed of not having protected them, and of having helped to rob them : But by whom ? and how were their accufations teftified ? He was accufed by the Britiih who loft their goods, and he was accufed in no legal way, but in letters to their conftitu-ents ! Strange as this may appear, it is, I am perfuaded, very true, and it is moft furpriling furprifing that the merchants could not get an edict from the Court of St Peterfburgh to have common juffice done them, feeing they had never been baulked in any reafonable demand, and at that very time had the bell opportunity of having juflice done them. They knew in what favour our Ambaffador the late Earl of Hyndford then flood at that court. They knew that he had carried thro' affairs with eafe, which his predcceffors could make nothing of; and is it credible that he could not have had common juflice done to the Britifh factory again ft the resident, a man of no family, who had none to fupporr his intereft, a man who by his natural faculties had raifed himfelf from being an unknown, young, Circafhan captive, to the rank of a major, a counfellor in the affairs of thefe countries, and reiiclent at Refhd ? I fay that it is not probable that the Gilan factors were in earneft when they accufed him ; but to whom did they accufe him ? to their employers in a very vague manner, I have reafon to believe ; for when I faw Mr Mirope in Mofcow, I told him that I fcarcely could think that jVIr Cherkeffoff would be guilty of any ftep, for which he could not anfwer ; I told him alfo that he bore an exceeding good character, that he was no fool, was nniverfally known, and that I made no doubt he would give fuch an account of his conduct, as would appear pear fatisfaclory to every difinterefled person. At that time, Mr Mirope did not re-lifh this difcourfe. It cannot be denied that in a letter dated June 1748, they accufed Mr Cherkeffoff for endeavouring to frighten diem, as they term it, out of Perfia. They acknowledge in that letter, that the refident gave them an account of the confufions in Perfia, of the dangers they were expofed to, and of the readinefs he was in to affift them. Did this look, as if he had any view to rob theni ? If they had followed the advice he gave them at that time, would not the Britifh trade have been gainers, and Would they not have prevented eighty thoufand pounds value from falling into the rebels hands ? If Prince Golitzin had con defended to have favoured them with his ad-Vice, and if things had not turned out to their wifli, it is certain they would not have fcrupled to have blamed the prince. They acknowledged long before they met with their misfortunes, that Mr Cherkeffoff advifed them to fhip off their money and goods f°r Aflrachan, forefeeing the danger they Were expoied to, and endeavoured to make them fenfible of it. This wholefomc advice they not only rejected, but accufed him in their way, of endeavouring to frighten them cut of Perfia. Well, what was the conference of not following Mr Cherkeffoff's advice ? They remained till they loll to the value value of eighty thoufand pounds to their employers, and then they blame Mr Cherkeffoff, who had long before that advifed them to fave their employers goods. They did not care to venture to accufe Mr Cherkeffoff in a legal manner, when they could not fail to have juflice done them : But they only do this to their employers in private letters, as far as I ever was informed. The reafon of my having taken fuch notice of this affair is with a view to fet it in a true light, apd in fuch as their own letters acknowledge to be true, and at the fame time to do juflice to a man, whom I believe to be honourable, and efteemed purely for his integrity. CHAP. XXX. Concerning the Manners and Cujioms of the Pet' fans, -with a Jhort Account of the famous Nadir Shach, IN this chapter, I do not propofe to give a hiflory of the Perfians, nor indeed of all the actions of the late Nadir Shach : I propofe is to give a very fuccincl account of Nadir Shach, and the manners and drefs of the Perfians ; for it appeared that, when ™e were there, they were governed by no fixed laws, but by the immediate will and plea* fure fure of their governors. They made indeed profeffion of religion : But that was only nominal and extremely fuperficial; as for cultoms they were altogether abolalied before we went into their country, unlefs robbery, beating and murdering one another, be allowed to be their cuftoms. The Perfians are naturally a very agile, lively people, the generality of their men are middle fized, rather of the fmaller kind, but very well made, tawny, black-eyed, with black hair, Roman nofed, and thick lipped. They all wear high caps gathered at the tops, which are tapering; they love the red colour, becaufe their foldiers caps are of that colour, and therefore they are called Kifelbafbee, or red heads. Their coats and veils are fhort, and they wear long drawers and hofe made of cloath ; in place of fhoes they wear univerfally flippers, with longer and more tapering heels than thofe wore by our Britiih ladies; which make them appear, in Handing or walking, as if they had no mufculous pofteriors ; becaufe they are forced to Hand very erect. Their foldiers confift chiefly in horfe ; * have feen foot alfo ; and they are efleem-ed, jnffly, I imagine, the bell horfemen in the world. They have a lingular way of managing their horfes : They ride at a gentle trot, or walk them ; but as they are not regular, they very frequently run off at a full gallop, gallop, and at once flop their horfes ; theil pufli on, turning nimbly, frequently to the right or left fide, as the rider thinks proper* If they are near a fleep low hill, they love to run up it as faft as the horfe is able. When they arrive in their camp, they cover their horfes over with cloaths three or four folds thick ; then they tether their horfes by the hinder feet, keeping them at a diftance ; fo that they cannot eafily lye down : They then place cut ftraw, or hay, at fuch diftance, that the horfe can but get to it ; fo that the be aft is, as it were, conltantly upon the ftretch* They feed them twice daily with good barley, with which we were obliged to feed ours, which purged them fmartly for two or three days at firft ; but it had a good effect, in making them very clear-lkinned. The Perfian foldiers rub clown their horfes frequently through the day : They are fon* der of their horfes than of their wives. By the Mahometan law, the Perfians can* and frequently do, marry four wives, and are at liberty to keep as many concubines & they pleale. The world cannot produce greater flaves than the Perfian women are to their hufbands. We were told, that a huf" band may chaftize his wife, but mull take care that his feverity does not prove the caule of her death ; for if, upon inquiry, it proves to be fo, and the wife has relations who can profccute the murderer, the judge delivers the criminal criminal to the relations of his deceafcd w fe, who never fail to put him to death, alter the fame manner he killed his wife : This, however, is not always the cafe* When our men Went firft to Baku with the horfes, and other prefents, the governor of that city gave them an order for ieizing all the timber they could get in the city to make flails and (tables for die horfes. One of our grooms happening to fee a board, took it. The woman to whom it belonged could fpeak the Ruifian language well; Ihe was defiring the groom not to carry away the board, when her hufband made his appearance; who, without any great concern, cut off her head with a hatchet; nor did we ever hear that he fuifered for this action. When we were encamped at Enzi-lee, a woman arrived in our camp, to beg that the prince would take her under his protection, and order the governor of Gilan to deliver up a man, who had murdered his wife, to her relations, who had gained, after *his wicked action, by the force of money, the governor of RelhcPs protection. The prince, however, would not interfere in their affairs, but permitted the woman to ftay a-hout our camp, where fhe did not fail to get plenty, and protection from our people. I am of opinion, that the prefent laws of Perfia are entirely lodged in the judge's breaft ; and that if a villain has money, or fubflance, he may perpetrate any crime with impunityj K k k The The women in Perfia are well enough proportioned ; but I was informed that they were not very beautiful, having had but few opportunities of feeing them myfelf. At Cura I one day faw an elderly woman drefled in a ragged filk gown, whom hunger had forced into our camp, followed by two young girls, who paid her great refpeft. As flie paffed through, (lie carefully picked up fome barley out of horfe-dung, and eat it ; at which one of our dragoons would have beaten her, if I had not prevented him. The prince having been informed of her diftrefs, caufed feed her and her attendants, as long as We ftaid there. She laid, that flie was well born, and had been married to a Khan ; but that her family happening to fall under the Shach's difpleal'ure, was utterly extirpated, and that none remained with her but the two girls, who never would leave her* rl his woman never had been a beauty. I have feen many girls, efpecially at Relhd, who were very beautiful; but I was inform* cd that thefe were Georgians. One day, palling by a houfe out of the city, five or fix very beautiful girls appeared at the door uncovered, and feemed to be very merry : They laughed, and made fome figns, as it were, inviting my comrades and me to go into the houfe ; and 1 was told by others, that I was not miftaken* for they were common to any. I once faw a few girls who were kept by one of the generals of the Perfian army, look out of a tent uncovered, as we palled by ; but I was told, that if their Lord knew that they had expofed themfelves, he would have punifhed them moft feverely. They were young, very pretty; and faid to be Georgians. I was informed that the Perfian women, in general, would fooner expofe to pu^ blic view any part of their bodies than their faces. One of the Britifh merchants at Refhd told mer that one morning very early, as he was walking by a burial place, he there faw a very comely young woman fitting in her fliift, being extremely hot weather, giving her child fuck ; he was very near her before flie fpied him ; which flie no fooner had done, than fhe covered her fiice with her fhift, expollng what our women carefully conceal. Many fuch (lories I was informed of, which are not worth repeating. Men may marry for life, or for any determined time in Perfia, as well as through all Tartary. I was affured, that merchants, and other travellers, who intended to flay a month, or longer, in any city, commonly applied to the cadee, or judge, for a wife during the time he propofed to flay. That the cadee, for a flated gratuity, produced a number of girls, whom he declared to be honed, neft, and free from difeafes, and became furety for them. It is faid, that, amongft thoufands, there has not been one inftance of their difhonefty, during the time agreed upon. I have been alfo told, that merchants who trade in different cities, whofe bufinefs obliges them to live in thefe cities fome time every year, or who keep a warehoufe, marry a wife for life ; and that they fuperintend their houfe in their abfence, and generally prove very true to the truft repofed in them. The Perfian women are all dreffed in long gowns of filk or cotton : They all wear filk or cotton drawers, which reach down to their ancles ; they wear bracelets of gold, either wrought or fet with precious ftones a-bout their ancles and wrifls ; and the fore-moft parts of of their fhifts, which are commonly of filk, from a point immediately below the navel, are embroidered down to the bottom with gold or filver figures, forming a large triangle, whofe upper angle is acute. They never cut the nails of their fingers, as we do, but let them grow long and pointed; they arc coloured with red, on the firft joint of each finger. I have fometimes been confult-ed about their difeafes ; and though great care was taken, upon fuch occalions, that 1 fliould fee no part of their perfon, yet they* could not hinder my feeing their hands when I. felt their pulfe: And though frequent'y it is very neceffary to fee their faces, in fome difeafes, the Perfians never would permit them to be unvailed. When they go to the bath, which they do twice or thrice in a week, they are vailed with white linen, but have a piece of net-work before their eyes, which renders every thing vifible to them, but prevents any from feeing them. Mr Cherkeffoff and I were lodged in the rooms where the Shach's women were formerly kept, and the bagnio was at the back of our apartments ; but there was a communication by a door, which was made faft when the women were bathing. One clay the dragoons who attended us, having got drunk, overhearing the women laughing, broke into their bagnio ; but Mr Cherkeffoff coming in at the fame time, and overhearing the great alarm the women were put into, fpoiled their fport. The Perfian women endure all forts of hardfhips, and undergo all kinds of drudgery ; the common women efpecially, drefs the land, plant the rice, and clean their fields, and do every other hard work, while their hufbands only look after markets, and fmoke the callian. One day at Refhd, I went with my countrymen into the country to vifit one of their acquaintances, who bred {ilk-worms. At our arrival, the man caufed his wives, I think he had three, fpread carpets on the grafs grafs in the garden, upon which we fat, fmoked the callian, eat fome fruits, and drank fome water; for they prefent no other liquor. This man had many children, yet, by the affiflance of the women and them, he fold as much filk yearly as would have been fuflicient to maintain them abundantly, if the cruel Nadir had not diftrefTed them fo much. I do not believe that this garden exceeded two acres of ground ; it was planted all over with mulberry trees, except a fmall piece for herbs. I do not propofe nor pretend to give the reader a minute hiftory of Nadir Shach, commonly called Kouli Khan ; nor of all the battles he fought, far lefs the hiflory of Persia, which I take to be foreign to my defign '> All I intend is, in as few words as I pollibly can, to give the fum of his actions, and his character in miniature ; in doing whicli, however, I find myfelf obliged to differ from thofe who have written before me, as my intelligence was from the better fort of people in Perfia, and more authentic than that of fome few others. CHAP- CHAP. XXXI. Being an Account of the Birth, Parentage, Ac* Hons, and Death of the cruel Nadir Shach. NAdir was bom in Chalat, by fome called Kselat, in the year 1687. ^e was the heir of the prince of that ftrong place. Chalat is faid to be an impregnable callle, fituated amongft the hills, in the neighbourhood of Mefhed; and though it acknowledged obedience to the crown of Perfia, was ruled or governed by a fucceflion of princes, who efteemecl Chalat their perfonal eftate ; and the inhabitants paid obedience to thefe princes of their own kindred, tho* probably they would not have been complainant enough to pay obedience to any Perfian governor ; which, no doubt, was the reafon that the court of Perfia was willing to let them have their own way of government, fo long as they were good neighbours, and acknowledged fome fubmiftion and fubjecYion to the crown of Perfia. When Nadir was about nine years old his &ther died, and left the government of Chalat to his brother, till Nadir fliould be of age, according to the cuftom of that conn-try« The uncle, whofe name I have not bitten in my journal, ruled the people with fuch fuch ciifcretion, that they confirmed hiffl* during his life, in the government, in prejudice of young Nadir, of whom they had no great conceit. They began early to ob-ferve, that he probably would prove a very turbulent prince, and were afraid that his government would be very dilagreeable to them. Nadir did not relifh fuch ufage : It is faid that he retired ; Hanway lays, that he was captivated by the Ufbecks ; but I never was informed of this, nor of many other anecdotes of his life which Mr Hanway gives, nor of his killing the courier ; but it is certain, that he retired into Khoraffan, which the Perfians call Choraffan, and entered the Shach's fervice as a foldier, anno 171 2. He had not fervecl long until his military genius, and, no doubt, his birth helped him to be taken notice ofbyBabulu Khan, then governor of ChoralTan. Befides, he was a remarkably flrong, bold man ; qualifications which will never fail to recommend a foldier, efpecially when a country is daily invaded by* enemies, which was the fituation of Choral-fan at that time. He was not long in the fervice till he was promoted to the rank of a colonel ; for, in the year 1719, a great body of Usbecks fell upon Choraffan, deftroying the country where-evcr they went, carrying off the inhabitants into flavery, and feizing their cattle. The The governor and his counfel, were even afraid that they would attempt Meflied; he therefore fummoned a council of war, where Nad ir was admitted, though he had, by the curiom of Perfia, no right to give advice; yet this was a very proper time for him, who had nothing to loie but his life, upon which he did not fet great value, in refpect of making himfelf remarkable in the world. He patiently heard what every one faid; and obfer-ving that the refult of their confultation ended not to his liking^but was the effect of fear and confufion, viz* to keep within the city, wherefore he begged leave of the governor to fpeak; which being granted, in oppofition to all the generals prelent, he humbly repre-fented, that the city being very large, and the number of troops very fmall, it would be impoffible to defend it againft fuch numbers of Ufbecks: Add to this, that a few days would reduce the citizens and foldiers to a dreadful famine, becaufe they were already in great want. He faid, that he had proved the Shach's foldiers bravery to be much fuperior to the Ufbecks; and that if he were favoured with the command, he made no doubt of foon reducing the Ufbecks to a neceffity of evacuating the province. So rational an advice, given by a man whofe military genius had been proved in different former actions, was, however, agreeable to none prefent but the governor. He infilled L 11 that that Nadir's advice fliould be taken; but the generals prefent would not ferve under a junior, a creature of the governor's. Of this Nadir was glad, becaufe now he was fure of meeting with no oppofidon in the field, and begged leave of the governor that he might be at liberty to appoint his lieutenants pro tern-pore, adding, that if this was granted, he would promife either to return victorious, or deliver up himfelf to the governor, to be punifhed as he fhould think proper, if he efca-ped death in battle. 1 he governor granted all his demands. Nadir lofl no time, and being well acquainted with the country, he, by trufly fpics, got certain notice that the Ufbecks were encamped, with all fecurity, on the banks of Tedjen. Nadir did not, as I was informed, march againft them in an oftentatious manner; neither is fuch conduct agreeable to the well-known military conduct of Nadir; for at all times, though none were more brave, he ufed more policy than can w7ell be believed ; and all his military achievements, except the unfortunate battle with Topal Ofman, feem to prove the truth of this affertion; and that mifconduct feemecl to have proceeded from his defpifing his enemies, whom he had at all times vanquifhed former- Nadir was fortunate; he killed great numbers, and returned victorious to Meflied with many thoufands of prifoners. He not only made made great booty of their cattle, but got all their tents and baggage, and relieved the inhabitants of Chorollan; and returned to the natives every thing which was taken from them by the Ulbecks. Thus he returned to Mefhed loaded with deferved honour, and the praifes of the whole province; and prayers for his fafety and future profperity. The governor, in the greateft raptures of joy, received him, and promifed to acquaint the unfortunate Shach Tschmas alias Tachmas, of this extraordinary deliverance, and at the fame time intreat him to create him (Nadir) a general, when the firft vacancy fliould happen. An opportunity foon prefented; but the Shach promoted a young nobleman, not bred to arms, a relation of the governor's. This Nadir could not put up with, without reproaching the governor in very harfli terms; and when the governor endeavoured to aifure him that he had acted honourably, Nadir hefitated not, in the moft impertinent manner, to call him treacherous, and a liar; for which the governor eaufed him to be bafti-nadoed, or beat on the foles of his feet, until the nails of his toes ftarted. This punifliment was not fufficient to calm the turbulent fpirit of Nadir; it only fcrved to exafperate him; and though he kept filent till he recovered, this no fooner happened than lie fled to the mountains, where numbers of def-perate vagabonds reforted to him. He not only robbed robbed die caravans, but laid the whole province under contribution, which terrified the governor with the dread of his refentment. Though Nadir plundered the caravans, and neighbouring Tartars, not fubjecl to Perfia, the Perfians told us, that he did no great harm to the inhabitants of ChorofFan. His uncle at lafl, however, wrote to Nadir, and defired him to refrain from fo infamous a way of living, promifing at the fame time to procure a pardon from the weak Tashmas, for all his paft faults. To this Nadir was not averle, and his uncle foon procured him a full pardon. Nadir, under colour of paying his uncle the mod fincere returns of gratitude,went to his patrimony, the well known Chalat, with but a few of his followers; and ordered fome hundredsiof his men to draw near it, and be ready, at a fignal given, to approach the only gate, in all hafle. Nadir was, with his attendants, admitted into the caflle. In the morning of the following day, his attendants feized the gate of the city without much refinance; and Nadir, at the fame time, murdered his uncle; and thus he made an eafy conqueft of that impregnable place. It was in Chalat that Nadir, when he was Shach, depofited all his riches. The Perfians told me, that it frauds in a valley fui" .rounded with perpendicular rocks, which •none but the winged inhabitants can enter, except at one place, which is well fortified, and rendered as impregnable by art as the reft is by nature. They affirm, that the fields and hills can produce, within the Chalat, without greatly improving the ground, as much provifions as can eafily maintain 12,000 men; conlequently it need furprife none, that the Kings of Perfia are glad to be friends with thefe people, who have it in their power to be very troublefome to the inhabitants of Choroflan, and even to Mefhed, whence it is not very far dill ant. Nadir having now become poffeffed of his father's inheritance, and added to the natives of Chalat, about 6000 brave daring troops, Was very formidable; but Hill feemed to wifh well to the inhabitants of Choroflan; and indeed he fhewed greater kindnefs for this pro-vince, than all the reft of Perfia, even to the day of his death. He now, without the af-filtance of any, determined to recover Ni-chabur out of the hands of the Afgans, tho* their garrifon was very numerous. To this purpole he fent a few hundreds of his men to decoy them amongft the hills. It turned out to his willi, and he cut them to pieces ; and, drefled according to the euftom of the Afgans, he ordered a confiderable body of his troops to go to the city, driving before them a great number of his own men, as if they were captives. By this ftratagem they got an eafy admillion into the city, and foon put all the Afgans to death, and freed this this ancient capital of Choroflan, and the whole province, from the tyranny of foreigners ; but he was much dreaded, though he did them no harm. Thefe atchievements performed, he wrote to Shach Tachmas, and after having given him an account of his rapid progrefs, he declared, that he was one of the mo ft faithful fubjecls which his Majefty had, and that he was ready to come and affift his Majefty with 6000 as brave troops as ever Perfia bred, providing the Shach would pardon all bypaft errors committed by him and his men. The poor Shach had only Choroffan, Afliabat, and Mazanderan, who acknowledged themfelves his fubje£ts; the reft of Perfia was torn from him by the Turks Ruffians, and Afgans ; confcquently he was glad to get fuch alfiftance. He agreed to all Nadir's demands, who foon appeared before his Majefty in Mazanderan, The firft thing he performed was, to put to death Fatey Ali Khan, the Shach's principal minifter, and general of the army. Then he carried the King into Choroflan, where he recruited the army in the year 1727. I*1 the year 1728, he was dignified with the title of Khan, and was appointed commander in chief of the Shach's army; and a fhort time after that, the King called him Tachmas Kuti Khan, which is, in Perfia, looked upon as one of the greateft honours, to be called- after the King. He got permit*011 from from the King to reduce the only city remaining, which was fituated on the borders of Choroflan next to Kandahaar, fcarcely two hundred miles fouth-eaft from Mefhed, called Herat. This he did without eifulion of hlood, excepting that he brought the rebel governor's head to the Shach. Having re diiced all Choroflan to the King's obedience, he got permiflion from the King to march his army, confiding of about twenty-five thousand men, well difciplined, towards Ifpha-nan, the metropolis of Perfia, againft the Af §ans, who had conquered all the fouthern Provinces, and were commanded by Afhreff. ^his Afhreff was acknowledged Shach of Per-ha by the Turks: He was informed of the rapid progrefs of Kuli Khan, and was determi ned to feek him in Choroflan; but Kuli Khar* having perfuaded the Shach to remain hi Choroflan, marched his army only to the city of Damgoon, and waited in the neighborhood of it for the Afguans; nor did he tarry long, till the Afguans came forward peatly fatigued, and in a ftarving condition; however they were obliged to give him bat-jle at confiderable difadvantage, as Kuli Khan had chofen his ground. He cut many thou-ands of the Afguans in pieces, and the reft ^Jade the beft of their way back again to If-Pflahan. This battle was faid to be fought °u the 2d of October, O. S. Upon this 8°od fuccefs the Shach gave him the command maud of his whole army, by conftituting him beglerbeg, or governor-general of the great province of Chorolfan. It is faid, that Afhreff, with the (battered remains of his army, arrived in two days at Taehiran, from thence deftroying all the country as he palled thro', he cooped himfelf up in Ifpahan. Kuli Khan perfuaded the limple King to remain in Chorolfan ; and he proceeded, in the cold winter, through a ruined country, by which he loft many of his troops, ftraight to Ifphahan. Alhreff having fecured the capital as well as he could, went out of the city and chnfed a good ground,as he made no doubt of foon feeing Kuli Khan ; nor was he in this deceived, for he arrived on the 1 3th of November, immediately attacked him, cut upwards of four thoufand in pieces, and forced the remains, in great confufion, to fly into the city, where they did not remain long; for in great hafte, having plundered the royal palace and city, he caufed murder Shach Hulfein, and retired with all the rich' es, and the haram, or King's women. It is faid, that upwards of three hundred camels were loaded with the treafures of the palace alone. Kuli Khan foon entered Ifpa* han, and deftroyed all the Afguans fou^ there, except a few who had been friendly to the unfortunate Perfians; but the fury °* the Perfians was fo great againft the* Afguans, that they utterly deftroyed a very fuperbmau- foleum* foleum, built by Magund or Mahomed, the founder of the Afguan monarchy in Perfia; they lcattered his bones in the moft difrcfpecl-ful manner, and built a public jakes in the Very place where the fepulchre flood. So foon as Shach Pachmas had received notice that the Afguans were lied to Schiras, he fet out with his army, and reached Ifpahan a-midfl the loud acclamations of joy, by the furviving number of the citizens. Kuli Khan now marched to Schiras,where he overthrew the Afguans the third and lafl time. They retired from thence on the 14th of January 1730, in the night-time, the day after their defeat, and divided into fmall companies; but the ladies of the ha ram, and much treafure, were recovered; and the Afguans were deftroyed either by the Perfians, or the inhabitants, on their way to Kanda-haar. Afhreff himfelf was murdered on the road. The ladies and treafure were fent to Ifpahan; but Kuli Khan marched Ilraight a-gainft the Turks, who probably did not lb very foon expect a vifit from him. He routed Ab-dallah Bafha, and took Hamadan and Ker-nianfha, Tavris, and Ardeville, into which cities he placed garrifons. The Turks ailo-nifhed at fuch rapid concruefls, begged a truce, which was very readily granted; becaufe the inhabitants of Herat had revolted, and, it was faid, had rajfed a great army. He loll no time in reducing thefe rebels, put-M m m ting ting their chiefs to cruel deaths, placing gar-rifone in all llrong cities in the province of Choroflan; and all this he accomplished in the year 1730. The Turks, not regarding the time of the truce,took advantage of Kuli Khan's ablence, and marched great armies to the borders of Perfia, againft whom the Shach went at the head of twenty thoufand men, from Ifpahan, in October, to Tavris, where he joined the troops left by Kuli Khan, and marched Ilraight over the Armenian high hills, to fee the Turks. He arrived in the neighbourhood of Erivan^ with the remains of his army, much dimi-niflied in numbers by famine, and the violent winter froft. The Turks watched his motions, and made an eafy victory, with their fuperior forces, in the beginning of the year 1731 ■ The Shach's army was beaten on a branch of the river Aras, in which many of them were drowned. The Shach was a fecond time unfortunate in the neighbourhood of the city Hamadan, which he loft, with a great number of men. He retreated from thence to Cafbin ; and concluded a peace with the Turks in January 1732. Kouli Khan having reftored peace to Chorolfan, placed ftrong garrifons in all the ftrong cities; and having appointed his fon governor, returned by flow marches, with a numerous army, to Ifpahan, where he waited on the Shach Shach, and dilapproved of his having made peace with the Turks. Under pretence of getting the Shach to review his army, he perfuaded him to leave the city ; and, after the review was over, engaged the Shach to take a fmall collation in his tent, where he foon became intoxicated either with liquor or drugs. In this condition he caufed him to be privately conveyed to the gardens of Hazarjerib, there to be confined under a ftrong guard of his Uibeck friends. He next got the prince of Perfia, Abbas Myrza, fix months old, fon of the Unfortunate Shach Tachmas, declared Emperor ; then he loft no time in lending the di-ftreffed Shach under a ftrong guard to Seb-fawar, a ftrong city in Choroflan. We have here an example of the moft amazing changes of fortune, and of the prolongation of the miferies ot diftracfed Perfia, by the very caufe by which they expected deliverance from diftrefs. In this , may be feen, what we have experienced formerly in our own country, how a bold, intrepid, determined villain,gradualJy overturned a mighty empire, underthe pulilianimous adminiftration of a peaceable, good, eafy, weak prince. The fequel will {how, that the miferies of Perfia are but in their infancy; and that Kouli Khan proved a fcourge of iron compared to the Afguans. The Afguans deftroyed ftroyed fome ten thou fands of men, but Kou-li Khan many millions. No fooner was the young Abbas declared Emperor, than Kouli Khan made all preparations lor carrying on a war againft the Turks with vigour; but before he declared war, he thought proper to fecure himfelf in the beft and moft rational manner. He married the aunt of the unfortunate Emperor, who had been promifed to him. He conferred the government ot Chorolfan upon his eldeft fon, Riza Kouli, and that of Herat upon his fecond fon Nezr Ali; his elder brother, Ibrahim, was made governor of Tavris; and Kerman was governed by his fecond brother; next to them all offices of truft were dillribu-tcd to fuch whofe fortunes intirely depended upon him: But co put it as far as was poftible out of the power of the Perfians, ever to gather head againft him, he deftroyed all claffes of the ancient Perfian nobility, except a feW fools, and fuch as had fled from their native country. At the latter end of this year, he declared war againft the Turks by a manifefto,which he fent to the governor of Bagdat, Achmed Ba-fha, letting him know, that he would ibon pay him a vifit upon the banks of the Tigris* with an invincible army: Nor did he difap-point him; for in February 1733, he retook Keimanfha, and chopped off the governor's he ad,in revenge for the murder ot Seftie Kouli Khan, a noble Perfian, whom the Turks had bafcly murdered ibme time before at Con-ftanrinople. He then appointed a governor and ftrong garrifon in tliis city, and marched towards Bagdat: He drove all the Turks, who Were lent to obftrucl his palling the mountains, before him, and imagined that he loon Would become mailer of this great city ; but in this he was much miftaken. Achmed Bulla was juIlly efteemed one of the wifeft bafhas in Turkey. He managed his affairs with luch policy, that, though he treated both the Turks and Perlians with the greateft politenefs, he would fuffcr neither of them to enter into the city of Bagdat, Kouli Khan arrived near Bagdat on the loth of A-pril; and, as foon as was pofhble, finding that he could not take it by force, blocaded the city, Co that none could get out. He Caufed build houfes for his army, to let the Turks fee that he meant to deftroy them by famine, which he undoubtedly would have done, if Topal Ofman, one of the beft generals in Turkey, with a mighty army, had not relieved them. The Seralkier Topal Ofman encamped his army at Kerkond, not far from Bagdat, confifting of 100,000 men, where Kouli Khan paid him a vilk with an army of feventy thoufand men, on the iSth °f July : The battle was extremely bloody on hoth fides, and the lofs was nearly equal; but the haughty Kouli Khan was for once obliged to take to his heels for his fafety. He loft loll the battle, but little more; for Topal Olinan acknowledged, that his great lofs of men would not permit him to take any advantage of the victory. Amongft the wounded he found the father-in-law, and nephew of Kouli Khan, whom he treated with gigat humanity, and fent to Kouli Khan with pro-pofals of peace. Kouli Khan returned thanks for the refpect he had (hown to his relations, but faid nothing concerning the peace. He had only reached Hamadan, when he wrote to A chined Balhaw, governor of Babylon or Bagdat, to let him know, that he deligned early next year to pay himafecond vifit,with a more powerful army than the laft. Of this Topal Ofman acquainted the court of Con-ftaminople,and begged that they would fend in all hafte a great army, for his was. reduced much by the late battle, and the confe-quences of it. It is laid, that he defired, as he was old and infirm, that the Porte would appoint another Serafkier to command the army; but to this they were altogether deaf; however they augmented his army. One of Kouli Khan's fons having heard of his father's defeat, marched an army to his affift* ance, which enabled him to pay Topal Of-man a vifit fooner than he expected: However, Topal Qfman's army was recruited fo> that it numbered at leaft one hundred thoufand men. On the 25th of October, the Perfians attacked the Turks not far from the former former place of action, loll four thoufand men, and retreated to their camp. On the 26th, they attacked them a fecond time, and gained a compleat victory. The Turks loft, it is faid, forty thoufand men, all their artillery, arms, tents,and ammunition; but their greateft lofs was Topal Ofman, who was killed. Kouli Khan cauled bury his body with all the honours due to fo great a man, and fo brave a general. Kouli Khan having received advice, that the governor of Schiras,Seffie Mahomed Khan, had joined Mahomed Khan Balouche, a ge^ neral who was fent into that province to raife recruits for the army, who had rebelled, and proclaimed Shach Tachmas as their lawful King. He loft no time; and though they had an army of thirty thou land men. foon arrived in the neighbourhood of Schiras. Mahomed Khan Balouche, poftefled himfelf of fome paffes amongft the mountains; but Kouli Khan made no hefitation to attack him. Both generals were brave: Had their foldiers been any way comparable, it is thought that Kouli Khan would have had great difficulty to have vanquifhed Mahomed Khan ; hut his cowardly foldiers no fooner heard the thunder of Kouli Khan's voice giving orders to his men, than they took to their heels. Mahomed Khan attempted, with a body of ehofen men, to pierce the heart of the barbarous Kouli Khan, but was prevented by greater greater numbers, and obliged to fly : He was taken by the Arabs, and carried prilbner to Kouli Khan; where, to end the difpute, he hanged himfelf. Schiras fell now an eafy con-quell; and Kouli Khan having put to death the principal rebels, and pillaged the city, returned to Ifpahan. During the winter he recruited his army, and made all neceftary preparations to act vigoroully againft the lurks in the fpring. The difference between the Dageftan and Lefgee Tartars, I think is not clear in authors; I therefore deiire my readers to remember, that I call the Dageftan tartars, thofe wHi inhabit the hills between Derbent and Circaffia; and I call thofe who inhabit the hills fouth, and fouth-eaft of Derbent, all the way to the north banks of Cura, Lclgee Tartars* Early in the fpring of the year 1734, the Crim Tartars inarched through part of Ch"~ caffia, either to join the friend6 of the Turks* or attack their enemies amongft the Dagefta*1 Tartars. The prince Heffenhumburgh commanded a garrifon at Soulack, before Kizfoaf was built. Pie, at the head of a few hU^* clreds of regular troops, denied the C&* Tartars a palfage; but they repulfed tne prince, though in fo doing they loft fonlS thoufands of their number; and the Dage' ftan Tartars fell upon them before they H** proceeded much farther, and cut them oft» fo that they could be of no fervice to the Turks* TRAVEL S. 465 Turks. The Lefgee Tartars were aftembling about Cura. Kouli Khan lent his ion Nezr Ali with a good body of troops, who drove them back, and confined them to their hills. Kouli Khan, however, let out very early, and marched by Tavris ilraight to Teflis, the capkal of Georgia, with an army of at leaft: bne hundred thoufand men. The Turks tliis year made but a defpicable appearance, flying before the victorious Perfian army e-Very where. At laft Kouli Khan fat down before Ganja, in the month of October, but could not take it, though he was mailer of a great train of artillery. A nobleman of the family of my commander Prince Golitzin^ Was envoy in Perfia, and happened to be in the Perfian army. Though the Ruffians did Hot care to make war upon the Turks at this time, yet it was their intereft to get the Turks ^nd Perfians to deftroy one another; wherefore this Prince Golitzin made Kouli Khan fenfible, that as winter was faft advancing, he would not be able to take this ftrong city, defended by a numerous garriibn, without the alliftance of good bombardiers, and a few mortars; the ufe of which the Perfians, at that time, knew little of. In fhort, the prince wrote to the governor of Aftrachan, com* manding him to fend three of his belt bombardiers, with bombs, and other ammunition, to the mouth of Cura, where they would °e properly efcorted to the place where he N u n was. was. Thefe men were drefled exactly like the Perfians, that the Turks might not know them to be Ruffians. They arrived ; and in the night-time formed a battery in a convex nient place, againft one of the ftrongeft bafH-ons of Genja, where the Turks had fecured their great magazine of powder. Early in the morning the prince lent notice to Kouli Khan, that every thing was in readinefs, and entreated him to come, becaufe the bombardiers were ready to play off their mortars* Kouli Khan anfwered,that fomething hundred him from coming at that time; but added, in a taunting manner, that they might begirt as foon as they thought proper; that he would be with them long before the baftion would be much hurt by them: But in this he was much miftaken; for the blowing up of the baftion foon undeceived Kouli Khan, and demonftrated that the Perfians knew little h1 the management of artillery. Though KoU" li Khan was glad that the baftion was dcftroV' ed, yet he was very forry that he had not feen the operation. The prince ordered h*lS bombardiers to take their reft; and when *c was night, he fent them, with a few proper attendants, back to the fhip. This city waS taken that day, without any terms, and the Turks were all made prifoners of war*. Next day Kouli Khan defired to fee the men who had contributed fo much towards his fuccefs ; in order, as he faid, to reward them them properly ; but was much furprifed to hear, that they were fent back to Aftrachan; and could not refrain from chiding the envoy for it. To which he anfwered, that they had done what they wrere commanded to do ; and he had obeyed the orders from the court of St Peterfburgh. Kouli Khan fent a prefent to them by the envoy ; and this aifair was kept a fecret in Ruifia, that it might not irritate the Turks ; nor would I have mentioned it here, if I thought that it couldnow polfibly have any bad effecl. Kouli Khan finiflied this year's operations hy conquering all the open country belong* mg to the Georgians, and great part of Armenia ; and, laifly, by deftroying the great °pulent city of Shamachee, and putting to ■cruel deaths the principal inhabitants, driving the reft to the fouth-weft fide of Caucafus, m build a new city, the fame I defcrihed formerly. During the courfe of this year, (1735) two remarkable events happened to the Perfians; the firft was, their fending a fplendid embaf-fy to St Peterfburgh, to demand the reftitu-tion of the Perfian provinces which had been c°uquered by Peter the Great ; in lieu of Which, the Perlians propofed to grant liberty to the Ruflian merchants to trade through all me empire of Perfia, free of all duties, or Uly confiderations whatfoever; and proofed to aifift the Ruffians againft the Turks, if if they fliould make war againft them. This they never performed, though they gave the merchants a free trade. To theie propo-fals the Ruffians eafily agreed ; becaufe thefe provinces were fo far from being advantageous to the treafury, that they coll them great expences annually; add to this, that they proved very mortal to the foldiers. 1 was credibly informed, that Ruifia was obliged to recruit their army in Perfia with forty or fifty thoufand men annually. The Ruffians, obliged to fuffer great hardfhips ifl their march, both by fea and land, arrived annually in Perfia when the rains and heat were at the greateft, and when a variety of dangerous delicious fruit were in their greateft perfection : Thefe caufes produced m»' lignant fevers and fluxes, which foon dim*' jiiflied their numbers. The next great event was, a very gr^f Victory which the Perfians gained over the Turks, which threw them into the titifl0^ confufion, and was the caufe of making peace. The army which the Turkifh Serai' kier Abdallah Couproli commanded, was by fome faid to be eighty thoufand men ; W others, which is very credible, it was faid to equal an hundred thoufand men. That o*1' der Kouli Khan did not exceed fixty tbou" fand ; but 1 was told it was fcarce fiftj thoufand men. The Perfians were obligeC to ufe ftratagems, of which Kouli Khan ^s a great matter. I mall not follow the accounts of others concerning this campaign, which was fhort, but give the account of it as I had it from Perlians, who were prefent. Kouli Khan obferved the Turkifli army encamped in a valley, covering the earth like locufts. He marched towards them, thro' the defiles of the mountains in Georgia, towards the valley called Arpakavi, where the Turkifli army lay encamped, waiting for fome ammunition, before they proceeded farther into Perlia. Upon the Perfian fide, there was a hill covered with woods, except in the middle. In this hill, which was neither high nor fteep, Kouli Khan caufed make fome confiderable mines, and charged them well with powder. When all was ready, he ordered fifteen or twenty thoufand men to march to the Turkifli camp, with the greateft fecrely, and fuddenly fall upon them in a morning early, and then to retreat towards his camp, which lay between the Turks and the before-mentioned hill : This they did with great bravery, and killed a very great number of Turks. At firft they threw the Turks into the greateft confufion, until they were fenfible that they were attacked by a Very inconfiderable number of the enemy, which at laft forced the Turks to fly the field. The Turks purfued, till they fpied Kouli Khan in a great hurry, and feemingly in confufion, finking his tents, and feeking his fafety fafety in flight: He retreated, however, not in confufion, but with fuch refolute prudence, that the Turks could not break bis men, nor get any fpoil. He fled over the hill before-mentioned, clofely purfued by the Turks : But on the oppofite lide he made a fland, and began to thunder out his orders; which flruck a terror in the moft refolute Turks, who heard his dreadful voice. When the center of the Turkifli army was marching over the top of the hill, it blew up, and buried many, and could not mils to throw the whole army into the greateft confufion, efpecially when a body of twenty thoufand men ruftied out from the woods, and attacked their flanks with fuch refolution, that it became no longer a battle, but a maiTacrc. The ferafkicr, and two more of the principal bafhas were killed ; upwards of twenty thoufand were taken prifoners ; and we were informed, that only about eight thoufand were conducted fafe to Cars by their baflia Abdal-lali: So that the Turks muft have loft in this battle about fifty thoufand men, befides the prifoners, who, in company of many of the inhabitants ofErivan, which capitulated, in confequence of this victory, were fent to Chorolfan ; but the garrifon were permitted to retire, according to the capitulation, to Cars. Kouli Khan this year recovered all places taken from the Perlians by the Turks, and obliged obliged diem to make peace upon his own terms: He protracted the conferences, however, till the beginning of next year, that is to fay, till he was fenfible the Turks would have their hands full, war being declared by them againft the empires of Germany and Rufha; by which means he could, with great fecurity from the Turks, carry on his intended war againft the Indians. ' Early in the beginning of the year 1736, the young Shach Abbas died ; and Kouli Khan convoked the Perfian chiefs on the banks of the Cura, the very place where our camp was pitched, when on our journey to Gilan. He pretended, that they were now at liberty to chufe a king : But they could eafily obferve, that he meant himfelf; and that whoever did not act: voluntarily, would be in hazard of being put to death. They therefore unanimoufly begged him to accept of the Perfian diadern. He had no great difficulty to accept of what he wifhed for. Henceforth we are to call him Nadir Shach, the name he chofe. At this time he demanded that none of them fliould fupport °r protect: any of the family of their ancient kings, under pain of death, as rebels ; and mat the diadem fliould be hereditary in his family. Laflly, that they fhould not curie Omar, Ofman, and Abubeker. To all thefe pfopoials they readily agreed, but only de* m-ed that the priefts might be heard; becaufe they they pleaded ignorance of what concerned re* ligion. The chief prieft was againft any alteration of religion, and fpoke warmly; but his oration was fuddenly flopped by the bow-firing. Now the Perfians have got a king much worfe than any they ever had before. Let us relate his unheard of cruelties, as briefly as poffible, until deferved death puts a flop tp his hellifh career. He firft feized all church lands and emoluments, under pretence that their prayers Were not regarded by Heaven : Then he if-fued out a declaration, ordaining, that there fliould be no difference of religion between the Perfians and Turks : Upon which joyful occafion he fent an ambaflador to Conftan-tinople, and went himfelf to Ifpahan, to prepare for the conqueft of Kandahar. Nadir having fettled all affairs in peace with the Ruffians and Turks, appointed his fon regent of Perfia, in his abfence, and a-bout the latter end of the year, fet out for Kandahar. His army confifted, it is faid, of eighty thoufand men ; and he gave orders to fend another, lefs numerous, after him* Huffan Khan, an Afguan prince, was governor, or rather prince of Kandahar, a great foldier. He had an army of betwixt thirty and forty thoufand men, and laid in great ftore of every thing neceffary, expecting a long liege. Huffan Khan met the Perlians amongft the hills, thinking to retard their march ; but, after having loft about two thoufand of his beft troops, he was obliged to retire, and coop himlelf up in the city, which was ftrong. The liege began with the year 1737- Nadir was determined to form a blockade, becaufe he had no hopes of taking fo ftrong a place without the help of artillery, which was not to be brought eafily through deiart impaffable mountains. Huffan Khan profered to acknowledge the Perfian government, and to fubmit to Nadir, provided he would leave them, and not commit any more hoftilities: But Nadir would not agree to fuch propofals. Forefeeing that this fiege would take up much of his time, he built houfes round the city, to let the inhabitants fee what they were to expect; and at the fame time ordered his ion to make war againft the Ufbecks, left they might, as was fufpected, allift the Afguans ; this his fon performed to his willi, and returned victorious to Meftied. The Khan, however, made many fallies l1pon the Perfian army, and carried into the city many thoufands of their horfes, which Served them in the liege, and, when ufelefs? were provifion for the garrifon. Nadir had appointed his brother Ibrahim governor of Georgia, independent of his fon ; *md had ordered his fon to undertake no-O o o thing thing of moment without his uncle's advice, in his abfence. The Lefgees bearing a hatred to the Perfians, laid liege to Shavran I Ibrahim marched to the relief of this city, but was killed. The prince, being now free of his uncle, ruled over Perfia in a moft barbarous manner, after his father was gone into India. The Shach's patience was at an end, by* the vigorous defence the khan of Kandahar made, and therefore agreed to let him continue governor of that province, provided only that his army might be recruited with his brave garrifon ; which was agreed to. After having recruited his army, he marched into India about the beginning of July 1738, being previoufly invited there by le-veral of the Mogul's rebellious grandees. He never declared that he intended any thing a-gainft the Great Mogul, until he had penetrated far into India, and paffed fome branches of the Indus. Some of the Omra8 he conquered by arms, and fome by prefents : And thus he marched forward, till he arrived before the ftrong city of Cabul* The brave governor, Sherzih Khan, defended the city for one month, and killed many °^ the Perfians. At laft it was taken by afHuik» and this gallant man, and his fon, with the garrifon, were put to the fword, without uV ftinclion. This city Nadir garrifoned wit'1 his own foldiers, as it is reckoned the key into into India ; in it he found great riches, which enabled him to carry on his defigns a-gain ft the Mogul's empire, and fecured himfelf a fafe retreat, in cafe he fliould be unfortunate. The court of the Mogul was in great trouble, at the report of Nadir's rapid pro-grefs : It was therefore refolved to oppofe him with the royal army, commanded by the Mogul in perfon ; but all was in confufion in the Mogul's army ; one day ordering to march, and the next day iftuing out counter-orders : And this muft always happen to be the cafe, when an abfolute monarch is a weak man. But Nadir Shach was not idle; he had loft many men in palling through the narrow defiles, amongft the hills, by the inhabitants of thefe countries : And if the Mogul had been aftifted with able minifters, Nadir would certainly have fallen a facrifice to their refentment; But he having become pollened of great riches, by the taking of Cabul, was enabled to bribe them ; who at laft not only permitted him to pafs through their country, but recruited his army : So that it was more numerous when he arrived at Peifhor, than it was when he fet out from Kandahar. Necir Khan, who was a brave man, and true to his prince and country, collected a fmall body of troops, and made a ftand amongft the hills, not far from Peifhor; but being overpowered by multitudes, he was obliged obliged to retreat to Peillior, where he {laid not long, but was taken and brought to Nadir, who made him his friend. Nadir foon conquered Peifhor* and, no doubt, got fome riches there. He was now diftant from Deh-lie only between four and five hundred miles, and had fome of the branches of the Indus to pafs, and fome troublefome roads thro* Labor. The MoguPs court continued in confufion, and that infected the whole empire. However, at laft, the imperial army marched, with four hundred pieces of cannon. In the beginning of December they encamped in the neighbourhood of Dehlie. It is reported, that the Mogul's army collided of two hundred thoufand fighting men, befides a great number of elephants. The Perfian army, it is faid, con filled of an hundred and fifty thoufand men, of different nations ; but I fpoke with a Perfian, who was prefent at the action, Aga Mine, and he faid, that the Perfian army was not an hundred thoufand ftrong. Nadir having pafted the Indus, he hefitated not to attack die Mogul's army, and ibon defeated it. The Mogul was made priibner, but treated with deference, and e-very thing fell into the hands of the victorious Perlians. This battle was fought a-bout the middle of February, and the two Emperors met in a pavilion, appointed by Nadir, Nadir, on die 18th of the fame month anno 1730, to make a (ham appearance of adjiifr-hig their differences, though every one was fenfible that the Mogul was obliged to fubmit to whatever terms Nadir pleafed to propofe. On this occaiion Nadir caufed erect a pavilion between the two armies, to which he went, and waited till the Indian monarch Was brought to him, very uncertain of his fate. The difpofition of Nadir was very well known : Juflice and honour be little regarded, and he was an abfolute (hanger to humanity ; but it cannot be denied that he had confummate prudence, and was naturally a Very great politician. His prudence and policy were the Mogul's fafety ; but, though he gave out that he intended to fave his life, and let him remain Emperor of all India eaft of the river Indus, yet no perfon can doubt that this proceeded not from the regard which he pretended to have for either his family or perfon; though he might have fome regard for one of the unfortunate and weak dependents of the great Timur Khan or Tamar-fetie, yet he could have little, if any, for the perfon of the man whom he had vilified and ridiculed for his incapacity to govern his fub-j^fts ; nor would he have, at the fame time, promifed to re-elfablifh the very man whom be had declared unfit to govern, if this had *mt proceeded from the fear of his own fafety, ty, and that he judged Mahomet, for that was the name of this Great Mogul, moft proper to reign in India; becaufe if he had deftroyed this man, and appointed any other, St is evident, by fuch an impolitic behaviour, he would have made many thoufands of e-nemies through all India; the confequence of which would have been, that he would have had but a very precarious chance of being able to return to Perfia fafely with the great treafure he had already amafled, and what he expected to get in Dehlie ; far lefs would he have had any the fmalleft hopes of keeping pofleflion of the new provinces on the weft of the Indus ; whereas he was pretty certain of executing all his plans by prefervingthe fife of this pufillanimous prince, and placing liini again on the throne. He feized, it is laid, two hundred pieces of the Indian cannon* the military cheft, and all the riches he could get in the Mogul's army. Having cauleo bury the dead, the number of whom was faid to be near thirty thoufand, he gave liberty to the living to return to their own country, and prepared to fet out for Dehlie. He proceeded to this city with great circumfpeo-tion, where he arrived on the 8th of March* Having fecured the Imperial family, he immediately began to plunder the palace, and the palaces of all the great Lords who were in Dehlie. The Perlian foldiers, on the 9th of fame month, were fet upon by the inhabitants, bitants, and fome were killed. This was no fooner reported to the inhuman Nadir, than he gave orders for a general maffacre ot the inhabitants, which were executed with the molt {hocking barbarity, {paring neither age nor fex : It lalted from morning till late in the afternoon, at which time, it Was thought, the Perfians had murdered two-thirds of them. A flop was at lalt put to this, by the inter-ceflion of an Indian Lord, called Nizam Al-Muluck. Mr Hanway lays, that this maffacrc began at eight o'clock in the morning, and ended at three in the afternoon ; that twenty thoufand women drowned themfelves in wells; and that a hundred and ten thoufand of the inhabitants were murdered. It is very probable that many more were murdered, becaufe Dehlie is effeemed a very large and populous city. I never could be rightly informed about the number of them, nor indeed do I think it poffible to know, becaufe they were all burnt or buried the day following. One fmall part of the city was faved at the intercelfion of Sirbullind Khan an Indian Lord, who promifed to pay a very great fum for their redemption, which was accepted of. It is remarkable, that he caufed many of the Indian women, who upon this occafion were brought before him, fuffer the molt indecent barbarous treatment ; but the Perfian Perfian women were frequently treated In" the fame manner. Nadir, having made all hade in collecting the riches of India, at lad gave orders to march from Dehlie on the 4th of May, after having made a lafhing peace with the Great Mogul, and confirmed the fame by a marriage betwixt his fecond fon Nezr Al Myrza and the Mogul's niece Cambarche. The value taken from the Indians is computed by Mr Hanway as follows : Crores L. Sterling* jfewels taker, from the Mogul and Indian Lords 25 31,2 50,006 The peacock throne, and nine others, alfo fe-veral weapons and utenfils, all garnifhed with precious ftones ... ^ 11,250,000 Gold and filven plate, and money which Nadir melted down - 30 37,500,000 Rich manufactures of many kinds - 2 2,500,006 Gannon, warlike ftores, furniture, and other valuable commodities - 4 5,000,000 70 87,500,000 As foon as he arrived in the gardens of Shalimar, he multered his army, and four hundred, fays Hanway, were miffing, only lixty of whom were difcovered ; they no fooner arrived in his camp, than he ordered their heads to be ftruck off. Aga Mine, my principal informer about this expedition,could give me no fatisfaclory account of the im-menfe riches Nadir got here, but in general faid, that it was altogether incredible, and that he believed not one in the army coukl tell tell the true value, except Nadir himfelfo How Hanway came to know every thing fo exactly, I leave to the reader to guefs ; however, he affirms the following account: " Nadir carried with him one hundred and thirty writers, among whom were feve-ral who underftood the finances of the empire, of which he was particularly delirous of acquiring an entire knowledge. He alfo obliged three hundred mafons and builders, two hundred fmiths, two hunched carpenters, and one hundred ftone-cutters., to engage in his fervice, in order to go into Persia. His intentions were to build a city after the model of Dehlie, a draught of whicli he carried with him, &c. " Belides jewels, gold, filver, and other valuables already mentioned, he took with him near three hundred elephants, ten thoufand horfes, and as many camels, of which many were loaded with fpoil. Moft of the gold and filver was melted into ingots, and! Hung over the backs of camels, horfes, and mules, &c." By Mr Hallway's computation, the treafure alone would require five thoufand and feven hundred camels, and two thoufand and fifty horfes and mules to carry it, and the artillery and other warlike ftores would require a much greater number. He returned to Karnal, and palled the Indus by the lame way he came into the country. He required P p p very very large contributions from the cities thro* which he paffed. Lahore paid one crore, or L. 1,250,000 Sterl. He experienced great difficulty in palling over the rivers, particularly the Indus, and he was threatened with flill greater difficulties in palling through the defiles of the mountains on the well fide of Indus ; for the inhabitants of thefe countries, which were yielded to Perfia by the Mogul, afTembled in great numbers, in order to hinder his getting forward; and he was even forced to negotiate with them for a fum of money, which being agreed to, he paid them ten lacks of rupees, in value of our money L. 125,000 Sterling. As he was a long time in paffing thefe rivers, a courier arrived at his camp from the Mogul, demanding that Nadir would return two favourite jewels belonging to the Sultana's head-drefs. Thefe could not be found amongft his riches; but it gave a handle for his plundering his generals and foldiers of what jewels they had acquired. It is certain, upon this occafion, that man)'* fooner than deliver them up, threw them into the Indus. This was exceeding bad policy ; but his voracious greed blindfolded his natural fagacity. Having paffed the Indus, he directed his march to Peifhore, where he left a general and a ftrong body of Perfians, though he honoured his old friend Nacir Khan, and confirmed him in the government of it. He continued continued his route towards Cabul, and on his way fent off one of his generals to demand fubfidies of the governor of Pekier ; but Khudaiar Khan had aflembled forces to prevent Nadir's deftroying his country, and indeed he obliged the Shach to be content with a fmall prefent, and with his making his fubmiliion to him as his Emperor ; to confirm the fmcerity of which, he fent his fon as hoftage, which was the fame I took notice of, who was fent with Ami Ruflan Khan to efcort the Ruflian embafty. Nadir having arrived with all his treafure, fent it directly to his own hereditary principality Chalat, called, by Mr Hanway, Kalat, where it was depofited, being the ftrongeft part in all Perfia. I was told by many, that he durft not truft the keeping of Chalat ei, ther to Perfians or Tartars ; but placed a guard of about twelve thoufand Georgians, all Chriftians, natural enemies to the Perfians and Tartars. Soon after Nadir's death, I was informed, that that gold and filver was brought out of Tartary to the city of Oran-burgh in Ruflia, and that the jewels were fold in that city very cheap. It is not unlikely that thefe Georgians made their efcape from Chalat through the defarts of Tartary, and carried with them great part of the treafure from Chalat. It would have been very dangerous for them to have travelled into Georgia through Perfia, becaufe many armies mies lay in their way, and fome of them very numerous ; whereas, though they might by chance meet with part of Jean Beck Ba-ter's army, their body was very refpecfable, and no doubt well armed, confequently they run lefs rifk by marching through the defart into Ruifia, where they were in perfect fafety, and from whence they might return into their own country at pleafure, or remain in Ruflia, an empire who profefled their own religion, a matter of no fmall confideration to people in fuch circumflances. Nadir, having taken all the neceffary mea-furcs to fecure as many of his con quells as he could, efpecially Kandahaar, which has ever been efleemed the key to India, difpofed of the treafure in a fecure place, and fent the bulk of his artillery to Ifpahan. He was now at leifure to chaflife the Ufbeck Tartars, who had frequently made great depredations upon the borders of Perfia, efpecially his favourite province Chorolfan, committed great cruelties, and had carried many of the inhabitants into flavery ; and laftly, in his ab-fence, had killed his ambaffador and beat his fon the regent of Perfia : He therefore determined to bring them under fubjeclion to the crown of Perlia. Nadir marched at the head of a victorious army, confifting of a-bout fifty thoufand men, through the country of Balkh, which his fon had, in his father's abfence, reduced to the obedience of Perfia* Ilraight Ilraight to Bokhara. The Prince of Bokhara, or, as the Ruffians and Tartars call it, Bochaar, immediately fubmittcd his whole principality to Nadir, who fpared his life, continued him in the government of his country, becaufe he fo readily fubmitted, and becaufe he is by the eallern nations efieem-ed a lineal male defcendent of Mahomet. He took nothing from him but one of his daughters, whom he married, hoping to have children by fuch a holy branch, and proceeded to Khieva, by the Ruffians Chiva. The prince of this country met him and fought him, but had the misfortune to be taken prifoner, with many of his principal commanders, who wrcre foon relieved from the diftreffes of this world, by ignominioufly having their throats cut. Nadir next proceeded to the capital, where two Britifh people "were, viz. Meffrs Thomfon and Hogg, who informed me of what palled there. Before I proceed any farther, I mull beg leave to rectify a miflake of Hanway's in point of time. He fays, that Nadir left Kan-dahaar, conquered India, returned, fought the battle with the Ufbecks, and fat down before the city of Chiva on the 8th of November 1739. Meffrs Thomfon and Hogg fet °tn from St Peterfburgh for Chiva on the -6th of February 1740, and arrived in Chi, va, and were in that city when Nadir laid fiege to it, and took it in a few days. Mr Thomfon's Thornton's manufcript, which is in my pof-feftion, fays, that the Shach fat down before Chiva on tf»e 8th November 1740, and it could not be fooner, becaufe they left St Peterfburgh in February 1740, and, as I formerly laid, it was in the year 1741 before the governor of Aftrachan received advice that Nadir had taken Chiva, and was making enquiry if there was any poilibility of marching from thence to Aftrachan. I Ian-way gives Nadir too little time to raife fo great contributions, plunder fo many countries, and return to Kandahaar. J rather am inclined to believe that Nadir did not fet out from Dehlie until the 4th of May 1740. Mr Hanway fays, that he arrived in Dehlie on the 8th of IVJarch, collected fo much treafure, tranfacted much bufinefs,and committed many pieces of cruelty both in the city and at great diftances ; and all this he did in Ie# than two months, which every one will think impoftible ; wherefore I believe that he ftaio1 in and about the capital of India one year & leaft, becaufe I am certain he fat down before Chiva in the year 1740, which is proved by others. In a very few days, the citizens begge£* for mercy, which was granted, except to the principal people, who loft their heads f°r their obftinacy. The Shach appointed a governor, with a few foldiers, and retired to Chalat, to fee that his treafures were not eni- bezzeled, bezzeled, carried with him into Choroflan upwards of twenty thoufand Perfians, and about thirty Ruffians whom the Ufbecks had at different times captivated. I faw thefe Ruffians arrive in Aftrachan in the year 1741, a few of whom were captivated at the time of the unfortunate defeat and barbarous murder of Prince Bekovitch, whom Peter the Great had fent into the Ufbecks country. From this period, I propofe to write only what I have reafon to believe true, without regarding the writings of others, which I am certain are very erroneous. After the Shach had fecured every thing as he thought proper in the province of Chorolfan, he marched to Ifpahan, where his prefence was very needful to rectify many dif-orders, and in particular thofe of his fon's admin iftration during his abfence. This prince had committed many blunders in government, and in particular had almoft ruined all kinds of commerce, fo that none durft enter Perfia, except a few Ruffians, who alfo fcarcely could carry on any trade with fecurity, becaufe the prince had commenced merchant general, and confequently none could buy or fell, except fuch as defpi-fed his orders, which were but very few, the danger being very great. In the year 1739, he caufed murder the unfortunate Shach f achmas, or by others Tamias (Mahommcd HuflKn Khan perpetrated-this piece of villainy) ny) in order to fecure the throne of Perfia to himfelf, believing his father at that time to be dead; for a report prevailed through Perfia diat the Indians had rebelled, killed the Shach, and defeated his army. At the Shach's arrival in Ifpahan* he upbraided his fon for all his irregular proceedings in his abfence, and in particular lor the joy, which it feems he could not hide, that he expreffed upon having been informed of his father's death* threatening to punifli him feverely, if he did not (how evident iigns of a thorough reformation. The Shach fent ambaffadors into Ruflia, of whom I have already taken notice, and alfo to Conftantinopie with elephants and rich prefents : But he was taken up this year in quelling rebellions in the fouth, which he fcarcely had effected when he was informed that the Ufbecks in Chiva had revolted, and murdered the governor and all the Perfians whom he had left in that country, and wrere threatni ng to commence hoflilities a-gainff Chorolfan. He therefore prepared to act againff them, and marched directly to T&" hiran in the beginning of the year 1741 : He had fcarcely reachedTashiran, when he was informed that the inhabitants of Caucafus were keeping his fubjecls in Derbent, Shavran, Shamachee, and Baku, in continual dreach and that if he did not make hafle to protect ihem, it was probable the Lelgees and Dageftan geftan Tartars would ftarvethem. He therefore marched his army directly through Par-thia, Caibin, and Ardehill, or Ardevill, to the banks of Gura, which he croffed upon the bridge formerly taken notice of, and from thence ilraight to the hills inhabited by the famous Shimei, which, contrary to the advice of his generals, he mounted with an army of twenty thoufand men, and returned with the lofs of fixteen thoufand, as has already beert faid. He marched from thence by Baku to the north of Derbent, to guard that city againft the incurfions of Ufmei, as has already been taken notice of. Where-ever he went, he left marks of unheard of cruelties. At Derbent he blinded five hundred men at once ; and at the time he was building caflles on the north lide of that city, his eldeft fon was brought a prifoner to him. This prince, it feems, fufpecling that his father intended to ruin him, employed fome unknown perfon to fhoot the Shach ; but it was commonly reported, when I was in Perfia, that he attempted to kill his father without any help, and wounded his hand, hut made his efcape* and was not taken till the year 1742. Woodroof told me, that he Was brought before his father, who upbraided him for endangering the life of his king arid father. 1 he fon, without feeming to be Under the fmallefl concern, upbraided his father for bringing ruin and deftruction upon dqci the the kingdom of Perfia, and wantonly, without the fmalleft reafon, murdering people for his diverfion : Therefore, laid he, had I a thoufand fathers, and every one of them kings, and had I power, I would murder e-very one of them, fooner than he a mean-fpirited witnefs of the total deflruction of Perfia. He faid he knew that he was to fuf-fer death, and that his father's fecuri-ty depended upon it, he did not deny. He therefore delired the Shach to put his delignS in execution immediately. To this the Shach replied, that he would not comply with his requeft of putting him to death, but or* dered his eyes to be cut out. I was informed, that when this barbarous operation was ended, the prince undaunted" ]y flood up, and defired that fome per* fon would bring his eyes to him, which the Shach ordered to be done; then he afked his father, What he intended next to do to him ? when the father anfwered* that he intended nothing farther at that time. The prince threw his eyes at the Shacht and advifed him to eat them, or put them into his wife's a—e. It was judged that he endeavoured to provoke his father to puc him to death ; but this he would not do. He kept him and his fon, a boy of feven or eight years of age, in whom he much delighted, not far from himfelf, and ordered his tent to be placed behind his haram. ^ was Was reported in Perfia, that the cruel Nadir mourned for this his feverity to his fon as long as he lived. Having already given what I intended to fay about the barbarous Nadir, in my relation of the events which happened upon the borders of Aflrachan, I (hall add no more here, but convoy him back to the Cura, with the lofs, as was fuppofed, of one hundred thoufand foldiers, and of twice that number of inhabitants, who were either murdered, or opprelTed to death by ways which ought not to be transmitted to pofterity. It fliall be, with me, enough to fay, that he caufed thofe, who had no horfe or other beafls of burden, carry upon their backs meal or barley to his camp, from Gilan and Aftara, many of whom dropped down on the roads for want ; for frequently they had nothing to eat but roots, fuch as thofe of the cardnus Marie, which I have feen them eat ; and they have been, when difcovered, cruelly beaten, becaufe, int fo doing, they expofed the miferies of rich Perfia ! From the Perfians, abfolutely abandoned, and averfe from all good, I learned to know, that mankind, reduced to a barbarous ftate, are Hill capable of inventing and multiplying many more different ways of tormenting their fellow creatures, than all the a-nimals which God created put together, even nippofing you add to them the helps of all the the devils in and out of hell. Never did mad ambition caufe fo much mifery to mankind as the infernal cruelty of Nadir Shach did to Perfia. As an addition to what J have related, he carried on war with the A-rabs, and that he might do it the more effectually, he projected the fcheme of cutting down timber in Mazandaran, and having it tranfported to Gambroon or Bandar Abaffi, in order to build fhips there. Much timber was cut down, and his miferable fubjecls were forced to carry fome of it fa** in the country, where it was left at Veru-meh; from whence it is fuppofed the oppref-fed people deferted their habitations, for none of it was ever brought to the Perfian Gulf. At this very time, when a reafonable man would have endeavoured to make peace with all his neighbours, Nadir was keeping them every where in a very uncertain ftate ; for he threatened the Turks, though they had given him no occafion to quarrel with them. His threats, however, threw the Ottoman Porte into great confufion, and kept them in conftant alarms. At lafl, in February 1743, he left the neighbourhood of Derbent, and directed his march for the plains of Mogan on the banks of the Cura ; put his fon, with fifty thouiand men, was encamped near Erzerum upon the borders of Turkey, He fent word to Conftantinople* that that he intended to live in peace with them, provided they would quietly deliver up all thole countries which formerly belonged to Perfia. To this the Turks gave no anfwer, but, feeing they could expect no peace, re-folved to declare war, and ordered the horfe-tails to be hung out on the walls of the fera-glio, and their armies to alfemble near the borders of Perfia. The Perfians began hoftilities about Bagdat and Baffora, cutting all to pieces they could meet with, and fent the huibandmen, women, and children Haves into Perfia. He, Nadir, tried all the art of which he was malter, to perfuade Achmed Balha, governor of Bagdat, to fubmit to his authority. He even fent an ambaflador to him j but, though the balha treated the Shach with great politenefs, yet he would not come to the point. The Ottoman Porte were alarmed at the conduct of the balha, and ufed all their art to get him cut off; but Achmed was fupe-rior to both the Perfians and Turks. Though he conllantly profefled himfelf to be a true muflulman, and fubjecl: to the Grand Signior, yet he would not permit any armed forces to enter Bagdat. This conduct forced Nadir to fay, that Achmed was a greater man than either the Grand Signior or himfelf. Nor can it be denied, that he was truly a very great man ; for, I have been credibly informed, that during the Perlian war, and and after the death of Nadir, the Court of Constantinople never could decoy him from Bagdat, and that at laft they were content that he did them no harm. At this time the Perfians rebelled every where, the governors and beglerbegs, efpecially on the fouth, took to arms. The exiles in Choroffan fled from that country into others, or kept themfelves, as it were, in hiding places among the mountains. At that time, as I faid before, the Turks fent a pretender to the crown of Perfia into Caucafus, amongft the Lefgees : He gave himielf out to be a younger fon of the late Tachmas Shach, and was received by thefe people with open arms. They kept the inhabitants of the Perfian fortified cities, as has been faid, in continual alarms, and in a ftate of famine ; for they durft not go far without their walls, but they rifked either their lives or their liberties. They laid the fmall province of Shirvau under contribution, and conquered all who oppofed them. The Shach having received repeated intelligence of this, fent his fon Nezr Ali Myrza at the head of a refpectable army, to put a flop to their carreer. The Lefgees met him at Cura, gave him battle, but were conquered, and the poor pretender taken prifoner. The Shach order' eel to let the prifoner elcape, with fome trifling punifliment, but caufed cut off the heads of two hundred and eighty two of their chiefs, which were placed in the niches of the pyramid formerly defcribed. This was done in the beginning of the year 1744. The rebellion in the lbuth, headed by a Perfian nobleman, Taghi Khan, who was a good politician and an excellent foldier, became very grievous to Nadir : However, he fent a great army againft them, who foon defeated them, and took the nobleman and all his family prifoners, and fent them ftraight to Ifpahan, It was faid the brutal Nadir caufed his favourite wife to be violated by a common foldier before his face, and himlelf to be caftrated, with the lofs of one of his eyes. Hanway fays, that this was done contrary to his ufual regard to women. If 1 be rightly informed, Nadir paid no regard to women, but to fadsfy his defires for a time ; after which, they had no more refpecl: paid to them than his afles. What is very extraordinary, is, that after Taghi Khan was recovered to good health* Nadir conftituted him governor of Cabul! I own, that what has been matter of furprife to many, hath not in the leaft furprifed me ; becaufe, before this happened, I imagine Nadir was mad ; and it is well known, that none can account for the actions of madmen; ftone likewife are ignorant, that at certain times madmen will ad conformable to the rules of right reafon; and in this way on- !y can I account for many of the actions of the Shach. It was given out, that Nadir intended to refign in favour of Shahrokh, his grand-fon, by his eldeft fon, and a filter of the unfortunate Shach Tachmas, who had fome time before this taken poifon, that flie might be free of the daily tormenting thoughts of the miferable deftruction of the ancient Seflie family, who had for a long time filled the throne of Perfia; or elfe to avoid a more violent death, of which flie had daily many frightful examples of her own fex, and alfo of her family brought to the moft painful and fhameful deaths, which man or devil could contrive, notwitbftand-ing all the delicacy which Nadir, according to Mr Hanway, ftiowed to the fair fex. Towards the clofe of this year, the Perfians and Turks came to an engagement, and both declared themfelves to have been victorious ; however, I imagine that the Perfians were conquerors, becaufe they maintained a great army during the winter in the Turkifh dominions. CHAP- CHAP. XXXII. A Continuation of the Hiftory of Nadir Shach, with an Account of his Death. NADIR, having reduced all the rebellions in Perfia, joined his army with that commanded by his fon, near Erivan; the fum of both, when joined together, amounted to eighty thoufand men; but Mahomed. Bafha commanded an army of Turks equal at leaft to one hundred and thirty thoufand men. The Turks, about the end of July, fought the Perlians, driving all their fmall parties before them, and continued their march towards Erivan with a great train of artillery. Nadir permitted them to encamp without any moleftation, and drew fo near them that neither could depart without coming to blows: At laft Mahomed began the Work; he lent out a ftrong party to fkirmifh With the Perfians, and then it came to a very bloody battle ; and, notwithstanding that the Turks were nearly double the number of the Perlians, they were glad to retire into their camp towards the evening, having loft twenty thoufand of their belt troops, who Were killed in battle, and fome thoufands taken prifoners. After this victory, Nadir got between them and Cars, on their own R r r borders, borders, and rendered it impoffible for them to get any provifion, or any other a Hi fiance from Turkey. Thus hemmed in, the Turks, in the night-time, between the 8th and 9th of Auguft, were forced to leave their flrong camp, with all their tents and cannons, and formed a defperate retreat towards Cars. Nadir, ever watchful, fell on them, and killed great numbers in their retreat, obliging them to throw away all their baggage, and at lafl forced them, under all thefe disadvantages, to another battle, which was very bloody: In fhort, the Perfians returned victorious with five or fix thoufand prifoners, and enriched with the fpoils of the Turks. Mahomed Bafha, with four principal commanders of the Turkifh army, were killed. The Perfians brought the head of Mahomed to Nadir upon the point of a fpear. By this victory Nadir got pofleflion of all the artillery, ammunition, military chefl, and baggage, belonging to the Turks; and as their principal Bafhas were all killed, the Turkifh foluicry who remained, being without principal commanders, were mutinous, and very unfit to act any more this year againfl their great conqueror. Nadir had two horfes billed under him in thefe two actions. But though this victory was decifive, yet it proved of no other difadvantage to the Turks than die lofs of fo many men, artillery, and treafure; for rebellion was ready to break out out through every province in Perfia, which obliged him to remain on the borders. If he had treated the Perfians with humanity, and had not opprefled the whole empire with taxes which chey were not able to pay, and with fo many horrid and unheard of cruelties, it is thought he would this year have been able to have fhaken, if he had not fubverted, the Turkifli empire ; but,for thefe reafons.the campaign ended with this battle. The year 1746 was taken up in negocia-ting a peace with the Turks, which at lafl was finifhed greatly to the advantage of Perfia ; and rich prefents were fent from one court to the other. Towards the latter end of this year, the Georgians would not fubmit to fo many indignities and opprellions as they did in Perfia, but drove die Perfians out of their country; and in the beginning of the year 1747. when Nadir was going to cha-Itife them, a formidable rebellion broke out in Khirmania, on the fouth of Perfia. This obliged him to march thither, where he remained till the beginning of June, where our Captain Poffet had an audience of him ; at which time he was preparing to march into Chorolfan, and had built two great pyramids with rebels heads. Captain Poffet affured us, that the one I have already taken notice of on the Cura, was very inconfidera-ble in companion of thofe in Khirmania. Nadir Nadir was naturally barbarous; but lafl: year, and this, he ieemed altogether mad. It would be to little purpofe, and would take up much time, to write of the mad actions of which I have been informed; they are fo many, and fo dilagreeable to the minds of men poffeffed of humanity, that I forbear mentioning them; only as a fample of the reft,I mult inform the reader, that, at Julpha, near Ifpahan, he caufed roaft alive lour of the principal Armenian merchants, for having bought fome rich horfe furniture belonging to the former Shachs of Perlia. Of this I was informed by a nephew to one of them; who at the fame time begged of me to bring his wire irom Julpha, it the embaffy went to Ifpahan, to Aftrachan, where he refided; for which fervice he would have given the half of his wealth : He beat even foreigners, to whom he was formerly kind ; and put o-thers to all kinds of deaths, juft as the whim took him. When he was in Khirmania, he ordered his nephew, governor of Choroflan, a prince extremely popular, and much beloved by all ranks of people, to come to alfilt him with part of his army againft the rebels. Ali Kouli Khan, for that was his name, having been affured by fome of his trufly friends, that Ills uncle intended to murder him, declined, under diverfe political pretences, to depart from Choroftan; wherefore when Nadir had van-quifhed the rebels, he marched from Khir- mana mania towards Choroflan, of which he gave notice to die Ruitian ambaflador, defiring that he might meet him there. He had attempted the life of his worthy nephew different ways; but having been hitherto unfuc-cefsful, he fent his prime minifter, Mayor Khan, to Choroflan with orders to (frangle him. Some time before Mayor Khan left the Shach at Khirmania,he had fent orders to All Kouli Khan, to flrangle Mayor Khan as foon as he arrived in Chorolfan. Mayor Khari, it was reported, was fo well beloved, that the Shach durifc not attempt his life in the army. The Shach was jealous of them both alike, and would have been very well pleafed if they had murdered one another; but in this he was millaken; for, at Mayor Khan's arrival, Ali Kouli Khan produced hb uncle's orders, and at the fame time profefled the great efleem which he had for Mayor Khan. Mayor Khan produced the orders *le was in poffeflion of, which ended in an eclairciffement, a mutual regard for each °ther, and a confultation what was to be done tor both their prefervations. Whether ^ayor Khan had fuipefted the Shach's uid valet hie mundus ? Quid gloria ? Quidvt triumphus ? —Pojl mortem fumus, pulvis, et umbra Junius» CHAP- CHAP. XXXIII. Being a jhort Account of what I know of the Britifh Perfian Trade carried on through the Empi re 0f R uffia. I^HIS fubject naturally proves more troublefome tor me than any other in this book; but juflice, as will be fecn in the fequel, requires, that I Ihould here impeach the living, and vindicate the injured dead. Captain John Elton, an Englifli gentleman, had ferved Tome years in Ruflia in the rank and with the lalary of a fenior captain in the fleet; and was lent into Oranburgh to Superintend the planning out of that then infant colony, and to reprefent the advantages which Rullia might naturally expect from a rich country, and the proper places for huikling fortifications to pro ted the inductions planters from the depredations and hicurfions of the different barbarous inhabitants which border upon it ; the moff potent °f whom were ruled by a prince known by *he title of Jean-Beck-Batcr ; who, it was could bring into the field an army of an hundred thoufand men, and who '(hewed n° great friendlhip for the Ruifian colony, °ut took every opportunity to annoy and diftrefs them, not only in the field, but kept the the city and garrifon of Oranburgh in continual dread, At fuch a time, and for fuch reafons, Captain John Elton was fent there, under the inflection of the fame Vafely Ni-kititch Tatifhoff who afterwards was governor of Aflrachan ; a gentleman who was juftly efleemed one of the greateft knowledge in the empire of Ruifia, as he was an able politician, and had formerly tranfacted many affairs with thofe untractable wild people a-bout the borders of Siberia, to the fadsfaclion of the court of St Peterfburgh. Mr Elton, in a few years, fettled his af fairs in fuch a way as gave great fatisfactioii to the privy counfellor Tatifhoff, and confe* quently to the court of St Peterfburgh' When he had finifhed this bufinefs, he re tired, and, by Mr TatifhofPs intereft, got Ms difmifTion from the fervice of Ruflia, wit* a handfome prefent: And this he got the more readily, as he projected a trade frofl1 Great Britain into Perfia ; which he ma^e appear would be very beneficial for both Great Britain and Ruffia, providing it W** carried on with honour and regularity W both nations. I imagine it requires no great depth ot reafoning to prove this ; if it be confidered* that when he had laid before the court of ^ Peterfburgh the increaie of their revenues* and the funis of money which would be ac" quired by Ruifian fubjects in tranfporting the the Britiih goods through the empire of Ruf-fia and the Cafpian Sea ; and the great fchool it would be to teach their merchants boors to become good failors ; as Mr Elton had projected, amongft: other things, to build two ihips, and have them commanded by Britons, carrying each fifteen common failors, eight of whom were to be Britiih, and eight Ruffians. In fhort, his arguments were fo juft: and cogent, that the Britifh merchants were charmed with the fcheme, and with all their power fupported Mr Elton both in Ruflia and Great Britain. The Turkey merchants were fo much alarmed at this project, that it is well known how much they ftruggled againft: it. They were right; their intereft: was in danger: But the general good of Great Britain being preferable to their particular advantage, it went againft. them. Mr Elton having found the merchants of St Peterfburgh fond of this fcheme, agreed with them upon the following terms, viz. if he fucceeded in getting liberty for fuch commerce from Perfia, Ruifia, and Great Britain, they engaged to pay him part, or all the expences to which he might be expofed in fuch fervice; and that they would conflitute him head of a houfe to be formed in Perfia, with a refpectable confederation from the trade. This I have been affured was the agreement. Upon which Mr Elton fet out firlt to Perfia, in company with Mr MuJlgQ Mungo Graeme, in the year 1739, where he Toon obtained all the encouragement which he could expect from Riza Kouli Myrza, the Shach's eldefl fon, then regent in Perfia. He left Mr Graeme ; returned to St Peterfburgh, and engaged Mr Finch to apply to the court of St Peterfburgh ; who did fo, and was fuccefsful in getting every encouragement which the merchants and he want-ed. Then he fet out for London, and applied to parliament ; who, notwithstanding great oppofition from the Turkey company, palled art act in favour of the Ruifian company : And thus tins affair ended, to the great fatisfaction of all the parties concerned in it. At his return, he flie wed the merchants of St Peterfburgh how neceflary it would be to have a fhip or two built at Cazan, independent of the Ruffian navy. The Cabinet was applied to, and granted all encouragement. Mr Elton fent off proper perfons to fuperintend the building of the firft fhip, and when fhe was near finifhed, he went with a large cargo of goods, and lbine in-ftruments for building or repairing fhips, which he conveyed lately to Perfia in the year 1742. The trade, as has been faid, no {ooner was infured of all manner of encouragement, than the merchants in St Peterfburgh quarrelled, and at lafl fplit into two parties ; the one one remained firm to Elton, the other fent feveral fervants, who, as I have mentioned formerly, went with me to Tzaritzin. They no fooner arrived in Refhd, than they paid great refpect to Mr Arapoff, Ruifian refident there. Mr Elton, having had the honour to ferve in Ruifia in the rank of colonel, would not probably fubmit to any mean unbecoming obfequioufnefs to Arapoff, who was only a captain. Arapoff infilled on his being actually refident for Ruflia, and gladly Would have had fome part of the direction of the Britifh trade. Mr Elton told him, that he never fliould have any thing to do in their affairs : That if the Britifh merchants at any time fliould need his alfiftance, they might apply to him, and that he was obliged to afliifl them, by her Imperial Majefly's ex-prefs order. Thus, from fmall beginnings, things grew to a great height : And it was both faid in Aflrachan, and believed, that fome of Mr Elton's countrymen, far from making peace, rather acted in a very different character. The refident threatened Mr Elton ; their fervants took part in the quarrel. At lafl one of Mr Elton's fervants was flabbed by one of the refident's fervants, who at the fame time was deprived of one of his ears by Elton's. Both fought fatisfaction : None was given. The refident armed his foldiers ; Elton armed his failors. fhe refident threatened to affault Mr Elton's houfe houfe with his cannon ; Mr Elton immediately ordered two pieces of cannon to be brought from the fhip for the defence of it. Arapoff's fury fubfided ; but ffill he threatened revenge, when any proper opportunity mould offer. At lafl an order was brought fo Refhd from the Shach, commanding an embargo to be laid upon the fhipping at Enzilee, and Mr Elton to load provifions for the ufe of his army at Derbent. Mr Elton, having feci] red his houfe, loaded and lafely tranfported provifions to the port of Derbent. He no fooner fent his mate on fhore, whom Hanway calls Captain Wood roof, than poof Woodroof was almofl beaten to mummy b/ a party of Perfian foldiers, headed by a lieutenant colonel, infligated thereto by the Ruffian conful, who was advifed of every thing which happened at Refhd, by his fuperior, the refident Arapoff* Mr Elton no fooner had fet up a tent on fhore, to defend himfelf from the heat of the fun, and the inclemencies of the weather, than he was attack' ed by armed men. They were fepulled with lofs, and a ftronger guard appointed for hlS fecurity, until all the provifions were Safety landed. When this work wras finifhed, Mr Elton went to the camp, to receive payment for his fervice, and lodge a complaint againft the government of Derbent, for permitting him him to be infulted, particularly when he was fo very ferviceable to the Shach's army. He received payment, and the colonel's ears and nofe were cropped off, after he had been fe-Verely bafHnadoed. The Shach ordered him to be put to death, after he had fuffered this punifliment; but, by Mr Elton's inter-ceillon, his life was granted to him. However, the Shach ordered that he fhould keep watch forty clays over the bodies of fome men, who were executed, and lay expofed °n the fields, to prevent birds from perch-lr»g upon them, upon pain of death. The Shach, upon this occafion, obferved to Mr Elton, that he would be in great danger from the Ruffians; but that if he would accept of the office of fuperintendant of his marine, ar>d alfo Hiperintend the building of a few flfips, he could be in no danger ; becaufe, *t all times, he would be guarded by a respectable body of Perfian foldiers, who fhould have orders to give quarter to none who da-retl attempt fuch villany. Mr Elton agreed to the Shach's propofal, and immediately was loathed with a coat of honour, called caf-tan ; and was farther honoured with the ti-tie of Jemael Beck, iignifying the Lord with tj16 pleafant countenance. Orders at this ^nie were fent into all the provinces of Per-la> acquainting every perfon how much Je-^ael Beck was efleemed by the Shach, and >vhat powers he had intruded him with ; T t t com- commanding, that all his fubjecls fhould take notice of this order, and pay the refpecls and obedience due to Elton, threatening the fever eft punifhments, if any durft act in op-poiition to them. Upon this occafion the Ruifian refident and conful were threatened, and all others, who Ihould dare in the leaft to moleft Jemael Beck. The above account I had from different people, and alio from Woodroof, and believe it to be true. Let impartial judges determine, whether Mr Elton was to blame; and whether what he did was not for his own prefervation. I at this time was the only Britifh fubjecl: in Aftrachan who could In" terpret Mr Elton's letters to the governor and am certain, that what I now write is true. Though Mr Elton might have had fome pique at particular perfons, yet he ever behaved with propriety, in regard to the Britifh trade in general, which, upon all oc cafions, he protected and encouraged to the utmoft of his power. He was known to be a man of honour and courage ; and though he underftood that fome of his countrym^11 took very indifcreet ways of hurting his character in Ruflia, yet he never once called fuch to an account for their bafenefs ; but, in his letters to the governor, argued his caufe with great fpirit and freedom : So that many times I thought proper to give more mild interpretations than the captain could defigm defign. At fuch times he was obliged to fpeak of the unworthinefs of his enemies ; but this he did in a very fuperheial and general manner. None can deny, who knows any thing of thefe affairs, that the captain Unqueftionably had power to have caufed punilh any merchant in Perfia, without being obliged to give any reafon for fo doing, any farther than that it was his pleafure, and becaufe he was of opinion fuch deferved it: But the very great love and rcfpect he bore to his country, and efpecially to the trade, Which he looked upon, with great juflice, to be altogether a child of his own, retrained him from any action, which would in the leaft hazard its profpcrity ; and for this very reafon he often relieved the people, whom he knew to be his enemies, when unjuftly, or too ignorantly, attacked either by the Shach's fervants, or any other. Of this I could give rnany inftances ; but I fliall confine myfelf to one, as an example of his greatnefs of foul. One named Caffels, born in PrufTia, whofe father was a Prutfian, and his mother an Englifli woman, gave himfelf out to be an Engiifhman; and, by virtue of the liberty which was granted to the Britifh fubjecls to trade through Ruflia and PerGa, by. the court °f St Peterfburgh, went to Perfia in the year *743> expecting fome poll or employment from Captain Elton, with whom he had been rnade acquainted when the captain was in Oranburgh, Oranburgh. The captain, however, would not encourage one of Caffels's difpofition or incapacity, and CafTels would not accept of fuch terms as the captain thought proper fbr him. Caffels was a man of the moft violent paffions, quite ungovernable; very many inftances of which I could give, which my defign hinders me from doing. Caffels, in his fury, obferved no moderation ; neither juftice nor honour could lay the fmalleft restraint upon his actions. He was fo much tranfported with rage, at being fo unexpectly dif appointed, that he applied directly to the Shach, and accufed Elton of crimes by which he might have rifkecl either the lofs of the Shach's efteem, or foffered fome remarkable clifgrace. Mr Elton, with great compofure andcalmnefs, made the Shach fenfible of his innocence, and alfo of CafTels's madnefs; but pointed out the true caufe ; which, as I faid before, was his being difappointed in get' ting a poft under him, for which he was noc qualified ; letting the Shach know, that he was only bred a painter : That he, (Elton,) was of opinion Cartels had never been upon the fea, except betwixt Aftrachan and Enzi' lee. The Shach was convinced by this, that Mr Elton deferved all the truft he had repofed in him ; and would have ordered Caffels to be baftinadoed, if Mr Elton had not interpofeci, and protected him. Mr Elton did did not reft: here ; but advifed the Shach to employ him as his painter. The Shach ordered him to paint eight pictures, and make them as like as poflible. Caffels engaged for a price, and fixed the time when all fhould be ready: But Caffels, enjoying a great falary, and judging, that when the pictures were ready, his falary would be withdrawn, was in no hafte to finifh his work. In fhort, he fpent fo much time, that the Shach, having fent fundry meffages for Caffels to bring the pictures, at lafl ordered him to be brought to the camp with his performances. When he was brought before the Shach, he took notice of his breach of promife ; and alfo, that though the pictures had fome refemblance, they had many faults, and looked all younger than one which Caffels had prefented to the Shach formerly. Caffels forgot himfelf fo far, that, it is faid, he, upon this occafion, treated the Shach with fuch indignity, that he ordered him to be ftrangled ; which would have been put inftantly in execution, had not Mr Elton inter-pofed, and obferved to the Shach, that a mad man was not accountable for his actions or behaviour; and that ill reports were frequently carried very far, and loft nothing in rehearfi ng : That the Shach wanted foreigners, both for his fleet and army; but an action of this kind would infallibly put a flop to any but madmen from coming into Perfia, iia. Thefe and many other reafons, which the captain made ufe of, faved the life of this madman. I fliall take it for granted that this lingle inftance of Mr Elton's behaviour is fufficient to prepoflefs the mind of the reader with a notion of Caffels's madnefs, and at the fame time evidently lliow that Mr Elton was a good man, and fuch as I have defcribed him. Erom what I have related, it is evident that Mr Elton had it in his power, at once to have crulhed any number of his enemies ; but for the realbns I have given, he was reflrained from any fuch mean action, though at the fame time he was very fenfible that his enemies, whom he defpifed, would not have behaved fo to him, had they been in his place. Such conduct of the Britifh fubjecls a-mongft themfelves, could not fail to deftroy the Perfian trade. The Emprefs granted a liberty for them to build (hips for tranfport-ing with expedition their own goods, but at the fame time fhe reflricled them interfering wjth the trade of her fubjecls, or from freighting' any goods except their own ; But no fooner did their fhips arrive in Perfia, than they tranfported goods for Armenians and others, which was formerly done by the Ruffians, not only from one Perfian port to another, but alfo to the port of Aftrachan : By which means, accufations were daily lent to St Peterfburgh fiom the conful, refident, and Ruffian Ruffian merchants, alfo from the port of Aftrachan in relation to the barbarous treatment their failors met with on board the Britiih (hips : Many inftances of which I could give, Mr Hanway is furprifed that Mr Elton did not return home when he had good oilers from the merchants, and a iafe pafs from the king of Great Britain. Mr Hanway is furprifed at many things, the caufes of which he certainly knew better. I unluckily was not furprifed ; Captain Elton I am convinced, revered, honoured, and would have o-beyed the orders of his late Majefty, or his ambaflador extraordinary at the court of St Peterfburgh, if he could have done either with fafety, or honour. At the very time that the king's letters of fafe palfage were fent to Perfia, Mr Elton was threatened, if ever the Ruffians could lay hold on him, to be impaled, not by a mob, but by the principal people in Aftrachan. I have been prefent when fuch cruel threatenings were publilhed in open company, little regarding the king's letters, Which were fpoken of at the fame time with no great refpecL Mr Elton had proved the merchants honour eftecfually ; he had weighed it, and he efteemed it extremely deficient; ii that had been of full weight and value, it would not have furprifed me if the Britifh trade had been carried on at this time, not- with- withftanding all die confufions of Perfia* The hiftory of their trade, which I have already given is fulficient to prove this. The Ruffians and Armenians carry on a trade at this time, and why could not the Britifh, the moll fincerely beloved foreigners in the empire of Ruifia ? Whereas all that the Armenians can get is purely from pity which the Ruilians have for them, and from the profit they bring to the empire by their ob-fcquious diligence. The Englifli ufed to reprefent their affairs in the different offices in Aftrachan in too ftrong terms, and a-greeable to treaties, threatning if they were not complied with. The Armenians ufed to apply in the moft fubmiffive manner, becaufe they could ufe no other, and they fupported their fupplications, and brought them to anfwer their ends by funis of money rightly given. I imagine none alive can tell exactly the terms agreed upon betwixt Nadir Shach and Mr Elton ; but it is natural to fuppofe they were for a certain number of years, not as yet expired: Could honour or honefty then permit Mr Elton to break through the fa-cred ties of engagements at the defire of the merchants, ftrengthned by the king's letters of fafety, fupported by paffes through Ruflia, even fuppofing they had been fign-ed by the EmpreiVs own hand ? No ; fuch things might be done by men void of both honefty Honefty and honour, but Captain John Elton could not do a dirty action. When the Perfian government was at laft annihilated, Mr Elton, rather than truft his perfon to the Ruffians, refolved to make his retreat through Perfia, where, it is faid, he was murdered. This laft refolution is enough to (how how little he could truft to the honour of the exafperated Ruffians ; a fhort account of his actions, as far as I know, I imagine, will not be dilagreeable to the reader. Mr Elton married in Ruflia, immediately before he went the laft time to Perfia, a pretty young woman, by whom he had a daughter. His wife died foon after his arrival in Langarood, the place where he built fliips for the Shach ; but his daughter was living vvhen we were in Perfia. It has formerly been obferved that the empire of Perfia was, at the death of Nadir, thrown into univer-fal convulfions. The day we left Redid we beard an irregular firing of cannon from Langarood, which is not very far diftant from Enzilee, and were informed before wre left the coaft that it proceeded from the fol!owr-big caufe. Mr Elton, having been made certain of the Shach's death, and unable to get directions from any, how, upon fuch a conjuncture, to behave, refolved to go on board a fhip of twenty guns, which he had built, and remain there in fecurity till he U u u faw faw how affairs would turn out. He accordingly fent all his baggage on board : But when he went to bring off two pieces of cannon, and fome ammunition, which was left at the houfe, he was fuddenly furrounded by a great number of Perfians, who threatened his life. He tried what eafy means would do, but all his arguments proving a-bortive, he at lafl determined to defend himfelf as long as he could, and fent an ex-prefs, who arrived at Redid, charged with an account of his danger, to Culipha. He with a lew fervants killed many of the rebels, but at lafl was unfortunately Ihot thro' the arm ; this difmayed his attendants, and the lois of blood rendered him incapable of giving proper orders, or keeping his men to their duty. In this condition he was taken prifoner ; and when the rebels were deliberating what punifliment to inflict upon him, for having, as they fuppofed, advifed the Shach to build fhips, which was the ruin of that part of their country, an ex-prefs arrived from Culipha, who begged of the rebels to take great care of Mr Elton, letting them know that the building of fhips was determined by all the grandees of Per' fia, and was not owing to Mr Elton ; that though Nadir Shach was dead, yet the king of Perfia was not dead, and as it turned out afterwards, he affured them that Ali Kouli Khan was the king of Perfia, and was marching a great a great army directly into their country, to protect the provinces of Mazanderan and Gilan, and the (hipping, for which he had a great value. He further gave them to know that if any harm was done to Mr Elton, the Shach would not fail to extirpate all the inhabitants, and caufe low their habitations With fait. This had the delired effect, they immediately fet Mr Elton at liberty, and, in the moft fubmiflive manner, begged that he Would forgive what injury had been done to him. How long Mr Elton remained in Langarood after this I never could learn, nor What became of his only daughter: It was reported before I left Ruifia that he difpofed of any bulky value he had, and bought up diamonds and other jewels, and relblved to travel through Pcrlia to Gambroon, where be was in hopes of getting a palfage for England, or at leaft fome place of more fafety to live in : But we were told that he was murdered on his way to Ifphahan. Whether his daughter, who was an infant, (bared lame fate, I could never learn. Having given as fhort and candid an ac-c°unt of Captain Elton as I could, I fliall °nly add, that animofities increafed amongft the Britiih as long as their trade continued, ^hat the court of St Peterfburgh honeftly *et them know that their trade could not be c°ntinued, accompanied with fuch confufion Hon amongft themfelves, to the evident hurt of the Ruffians, and therefore gave them fufficient warning to difpofe of their goods to the heft advantage, and withdraw in fafety. It has already been fliown that they would not follow this advice, but tarried m Perfia to the evident danger of their lives, and lol's of very great value to their employers, and when the fate befel them, which every fenfible perfon could eafily fore-fee, they blamed their benefactor, who fa-ved their lives, and as much of their employ-" cr*s money as he could, and the.court of St Prterfburgh paid them the value of their Chips, which no merchants in Aftrachan would buy : So that when we arrived in Af trachan I was informed that a total flop was put to the Britiih trade. To fiich a pitch of madnels their animofitics and jealoufks grew, that when 1 did any iervice to one party, I was blamed by the other, although I am certain 1 never received the neceffary expences I was at, far lefs any premium* One hogfhead of Malaga was the only pre" fent I ever received for having negotiated their affairs from the beginning of the year 1742 till Mr Thornton's arrival, and alfo for having pled their caufes fuccefsfully with the governor and others. CHAP. C II A P. XXXIV. Concerning what happened in Aftrachan and Rujjia till our arrival in Mofcoiu. NOTHING uncommon happened during our flay in Aflrachan, except that the widow of Lieutenant Glafsford, an Englifli woman, born in Ramfgate, was kept in Aftrachan by the governor with her two children, under pretence that, as the father had embraced the Ruflian religion before his death, the children ihould be educated in the fame, and, until the mother complied, the flupid governor infilled that they fhould not be permitted to depart from Aftrachan, neither fliould flie receive one farthing of her widow money for her fubfiftence. Mr Gla.IL-ford commanded the port at Earkee, was there taken ill of a malignant fever, and died. Two or three days before his death, when he was delirious, and did not know his wife, the Ruflian priefl rebaptized him in the Greek religion, and this gave a powerful handle to a weak headed governor to threaten, and opprefs a poor widow with her orphans. Mr Thomfon had done every thing in his power, before we arrived, for the help of the unfortunate widow and orphans. They told me every thing, and I applied applied to the prince, who fpoke to the governor and affured him that if he obflinately perfifled in detaining them, that we were determined to lay the affair before his Majefly's ambaffador the late Earl of Hyndford, who, exclullve of his public character, was much efteemed at that court: This had the effect, fhe was let go j but the obftinate foolifh governor would not caufe pay neither her widow money, nor her hufband's (alary: But Mr Thomfon and I helped her forward to St Peterfburgh with her infants in all lafe-ty, where I faw her in the year 1748, and received my fleeping waggon in which flie was tranfported : But at that time (lie had not received her widow money ; however as I was pretty well known in the admiralty, I obtained that for her, and with the help of my brother, got her fent to England. The above I have written to let flrangers fee the danger widows and orphans are in after the the deceafe of their huibands, or fathers, efpecially when at a diftance from the court, and alfo what tricks priefts praclife upon men when delirious : And, though in fome countries the priefts would be feverely punifhed for fuch villany, yet in Kufha, nn-lefs things be altered fince I left it, it is quite otherwife. This is not all, for tho* the perfon thus impofed upon, recovers, yet it is dangerous for him to profefs the religion he was taught, and deny the Greek religion, ligion, fo bafely impofed upon him, when he was non compos ; witnefs die account I gave of Mr Wells. Whillt we {laid in Aflrachan, we were informed of Ali Kouli Khan's being declared Emperor ; of his arrival in Mafancleran ; of his regreting the ambaflador's departure; of his having fent to Refhd rich prefents for him, and alfo for the gentlemen of his retinue, which were returned to him fince we were gone from thence ; of his defeat, and his brother Ibrahim's being declared Emperor ; of Ibrahim's defeat by Ami Ruflan Khan ; and of many more troubles in Perfia. The court of St Peterfburgh were not fatisfied with the prince's return, without the Emprefs's permiffion ; but it became more mild, when informed that we had no probability of getting provifions to fubfifl upon : That if we had not that very time left the country, we mufthave flarved ; befides, our men were dying daily, and few remained a-live : That this was the opinion of every one of us, who fign ed it hi Refhd. We were very uncertain about our ilay in Aftrachan, and were afraid that we would be fent back early next year ; but the continued confuii-°ns of that diftrefled kingdom freed us, as fliall be taken notice of* At our arrival we found in Aftrachan the ktc Shach Nadir's merchant, whom he had lent fent into Ruflia with a valuable cargo of filk* to be difpofed of, and with the proceeds to buy up fuch goods as the Shach wanted. He was on his return, I lay, with a valuable cargo of European goods, and much treafure ; but the government of Aflrachan feized as much as completely indemnified the loiles which the Ruflian merchants had fuftained in Perfia by robbery and otherwife ; and the poor fellow contented himfelf to remain in Aftrachan, and live upon what was left. As we were very uncertain of our fate, I wifhecl much to fee my wife and my child; wherefore I wrote her often, and, as we had good opportunities by careful couriers, begged fhe would come to Aflrachan. She made many excufes, and, when winter fet in* I gave over all hopes of feeing her there. At laft, on the 14th January 1748, I received a letter from her, telling me, that, the weather being very feverc, flie could not venture with the child ; wherefore I endeavoured to put up with what I could not help ; and, in order to drive dilagreeable thoughts from me, went to hunt iii the defart. Next morning, before day light, a foldier came into my chamber, and told me, that flie was in Aftrachan, With her fon, both in good health ; which was true. She told me, that the reafon flie had written me as above, was what flie then thought ; but the day after, a captain with a fmall command waited upon her, and aflu- reel her that he would pawn his life for her fafety" on the road, and this determined the fudden change. Mortals are all fhort-fighted, and fo it happened to me ; for I fcarcely had furnilhed a houfe, when orders arrived that we Ihould march to Mofcow, and there wait the Em-prefs's pleafure. No time was to be loll; the winter at Aflrachan was near a clofe. This order was received on the 2d of March, and I was inftantly obliged to fell off every thing at great lots. We departed from Attrachan the laft time on the 3d, and arrived in Mofcow fafely on the 23d of the fame month. Nothing happened remarkable, except that the ice being very rotten, we had almoft loll a lieutenant in the Volga. At Tzaritzin the prince told me, he was refolved to go by poll; but, becaufe it would be inhumane to caufe me go with him, he permitted me to come with my wife, convoyed by the command. Having faid this, he fee out directly, and we ltaid in Tzaritzin all night. Next morning we fet out very early; the day was excellively cold, with a very high wind, and my people had* not been Very active, fo that my carriages were a-niongft the laft. The fhow, after travelling a mile or two, was very deep, and conlequently many Hops and delays were made by the foremoft fledges, fo that we made a very flow progrefs. Seeing this would eon-X x x tinue, tinue, I ordered my carriages to drive pad the others, which was done with difficulty, occafioned by the deep untrodden fnow : However, at lafl we got foremofl, and drove on to the middlemofl caftie formerly taken notice of. Our fecretary followed me, with whom I agreed in company to leave the command at this place, and drive as expedkiouf-ly as we could. Though the other officers imagined that fuch a flep was irregular, I perfifled, becaule the prince had left me purely on account of my wife and child, who run the rifk of being frozen to death through the delays they were obliged frequently to make. The paymafler laid that he could not anfwer to give us any travelling charges ; but the fecretary and I had money enough, and doubted not that our charges would be paid in Mofcow. Thus we left them, and travelled day and night with changes of horfes, till we arrived in Molcow, only two days after the prince. After we paffed the lafl Coffack village, and before we launched into the defart, we agreed to have a good dinner for us and our wives, who were feldom accuftomed to fuch hard labour and fcrimp provifions. After dinner, we took a few glaffes of generous wine, and then inarched fix miles through woods. We had not travelled very far in the defart, when my wife difturbed my refl (for I was fallen into a deep fleep) and told me, that the peo- pie had loft the road, and were afraid that they would be all frozen to death. I fent for them, gave each man a glafs of fpirits, and defired them to unyoke one horfe from each fledge, mount them, and ride round the fledges, at fuch diftance one from the other, that they might hear one another call, hoping by this means, that we probably might find out the trodden path : They did fo, and found out the poft-houfe, which was not diftant half a mile from us ; but the wind was fo high, that the poft people could not hear us call from where our fledges were. Though this poft-houfe was both very dirty and fmall, yet I imagine none of us ever entered a palace with fuch pleafure. The men were fo well pleafed, that they brought my fleeping fledge into a place which was not expofed to the fury of the wind, fo that next morning we were almoft flirted with heat, which proceeded from the fledge being buried in fnow. At our arrival in Mofcow, I was made Welcome both from the kindnefs which that illuttrious family had for me, and alfo becaufe one of the prince's fons, who was named Michael after his father, a great favourite, was very ill of a fcorbutic cough, which the phyfician Dr Boenni called a conlumpti-on, and which gave them all great uneali* nefs. The family were at dinner when we arrived, and the princefs acquainted me with her her foil's diftrefs, whilft we were eating. When I had taken a fnatch, I went to the room where he lay, and, after examining e-vcry fymptom, alked him, Wliy he lay in bed, and why the room was dark ? He anfwered, fo the doctor had ordered, but that he was able to rife, and gladly would fee day-light. I muft fay, fuch practice furprifed me very much ; and without hefitation 1 opened the windows, and helped him on with his cloaths, without giving notice to any of the family ; at which the princefs was greatly alarmed when flie entered the room; but when I had fatisfied her that fuch management could not fail to verify the doctor's prognolticks, who had faid that he was incurable, (lie was pleated. Next day I advifed him to take exercife in a dole vehicle, and, by proper medicines hi a few weeks, recovered him to his former ftate of health. Molcow is a populous and rich city, and there are in it many wealthy noblemen and gentlemen, who either are employed about civil affairs, or are permitted, after having long ferved their country, to live at their pleafure. Merchants alfo re fide here. If J* had been poffible for me to obtain my difcharge free of all fervice, I could in a very few years have made a good fortune in Mofcow, as the common merchants never offered lefs than a ruble for a vifit, the nobility never lefs than two, and, when any cure was performed, performed, over and above that, they never failed to make me a handfome prefent ; but it was not my fortune to get my difcharge, though I tried all the polhble ways. There are in Mofcow funclry apothecaries (hops, the principal one belongs to the Emprefs. It is an immenfe pile of buildings, where all kinds of medicines are prepared tor the army and fleet, and alio for the public, as in it may be had all the medicines ufed in Europe ; and altho' they are coilly, they may be depended upon for their being honcftly prepared. The other fhops belong to private people, but, as was laid formerly, they are as much under the direction and inflection of the medicine-chancery as that belonging to the Emprefs. If any grofs miffake was to be committed in any of them, they would be certainly forbidden to prepare medicines ever after. No apothecary is permitted to attend and prefcribe medicines for any fick people. The medicine-chancery jnftly think that they cannot be properly qualified; befides, the bufinefs of an apothecary, well employed, is fufficient for one man * if they practife that of any other, it is next to impoffible but they muff fall into errors ; either the patients will be neglected, much impofed Upon, or their fhops will be left to the care pi their fervants, from which much mifchief is juftly to be dreaded. I was I was not long in Mofcow, till I got an invitation from my old commander Piivy-counfellor Tatilhoff, to go and villi him in his folitary village, diftant about feventy verfls from the city ; but, coniidering diat at this time he was a Hate prifoner at large, I confulted with the prince, whether it would not be dangerous for me to attend him. The prince faid, that there was no danger to one of my pro fe (lion to vifit any prifoner, unlefs forbid by order of Court. I therefore went and flaid one day with him. I was charmed with his way of living, though he was very much diffatisfied that he was not permitted to go to court. He was employed in writing his hiftory in a room next to his bed-chamber, in fome diforder; for books and inffruments were lying in confufion on the floor, fo that he had only a paflage thro* amongft tnem to the table where he wrote. In two years time he had beautified this place, built a good houfe of timber, and laid out a garden on a ground which declined from the houfe to a marfhy ground to the fouth. At a certain neck of ground below the garden, he had built a ftrong wall, and formed a lake above a mile in length, and furnifhed *c with variety of fifh. At one corner of tins wall he built a mill, and on the top of the wall he had made an iron-grate, of no great depth, but very long, to prevent the fifh from making their efcape when the water was very ry high by great rains. In fhort, he had, of a country villa, made a little paradiie* The counfellor was extremely kind to me, and proiered me any reaibnable fum of money, if I would live in Mofcow, that I could fee him frequently. I told him that I was ufing all my intereft to get that effected, but was very uncertain whether I would fucceed. He doubted it much, and railed againft the government, concerning which I put him in remembrance, that it was dangerous for any one to hear him, and begged that he would refrain from fuch difcouiie, or elfe I could not continue my vifits with any fafety. He promifed to do fo, but was fo much chagrined, that it was not in his power absolutely to forbear. He told me nothing of his own affairs after he left Aftrachan : but I i-magine it will not be dilagreeable to the reader to be informed of what I was told by o-ther people. When he arrived in Mofcow, he pretended ficknefs, and reported the ftate of his health to the fenate, who ordered the phy-ficians there to vifit him, and report whether he was fick, and what was his difeafe. They attended him three clays, and he rewarded them nobly for their trouble. At laft, however, they reported that he had no other difeafe than a cachexy, which was incurable, as nis conftitution was worn out. The fenate ordered him to chufe any of Ms villages, not near near any great city, and immediately to make his repair to that village, and live there till farther orders ; and alio to report to the fenate when he had obeyed thefe orders. Mr Tatillioff was no coward ; he did not refills thefe orders ; he loll no time in getting ready; but in place of retreating to his village, lie drove by fome by-roads ttraight to St Peterfburgh, with an intention to throw himielf at her Majefly's feet, to implore her mercy, and grant him juflice againft' his enemies. The truth is, that the whole fenate were a-fraid of him ; and it is believed, that if he had been fo fortunate as to have been honoured with the Imperial prefence, he would have made his follicitations at leaft good for himfelf. He arrived fafe in St Peterfburgh, drefled himfelf in the livery of a hayduke, and walked towards the palace ; but, in the way, he, notwithstanding his difguife, was known by one of his enemies, feized, and lent to his village with a party of foldiers, where he remained raving againft them until he died, which was in the year 1750, During my flay in Mofcow, I vifited him frequently, and he never failed to make nie happy with fome prefent of a book or curious inurnment, over and above a handlorne fee. This year two-thirds of the city of Mofcow was burnt to the ground ; and one day, in the month of June, as I was at Prince GolitzhVs table, a fire broke out in the neighbourhood bourhood of his houfe, which, before die next morning, confumed that houfe and a-hove two thoufand more. My wife had been in danger of having mifcarried eight days before this happened. The houfe where I lodged was diftant from where the fire broke firft out about one-fourth of a verft, fo that any may conficier the anxiety I was in for the fafety of my family, and for that of the good prince ; however, I was neceflitated to retire to take care of my own. When I entered the room, I defired flie would not be alarmed, and told her that a fire had broken out at a confiderable di fiance, but that prudence required flie fliould rife and make her retreat to a garden at fome diftance belonging to the prince ; that all our baggage, except what We immediately made ufe of, was fecured in a vaulted cellar under ground ; that for fear of the fire I had bought a cart, which was in readings, and that I had hired another to carry off all our baggage from the houfe to the garden. At this time I was happy in having an honefl fenfible man-fervant, to whom I could truft all thefe affairs. I therefore ttiade the belt of my way on foot with my wife, fupported by a maid and myfelf, and a foldier carried my fon flraight to a gate %ar where we lived. Any may confider t^e danger we were in, in palling the ftreets at fuch a time, in fuch condition; for coaches, chaifes, carts, waggons, and dragoons pa-Y y y trolling trolling to prevent robbery, and keep good order, made it very dangerous ; but the fire, though on the other fide the wail, was making a horrid and rapid progrefs, and, if we had llaid, we mult have been burnt to death. If we had gone farther into the city, the confufion was the fame, and none could tell when, where, or how the fire would flop. At the gate the confufion was at the greateft; however, it pleafed heaven to preferve us, and grant a paffage, which, though dangerous, ended in our fafety. We no fooner had got free of this imminent danger, than we entered into a broad fpacious ttreet, which was almofl deferted by the inhabitants; there we relied upon the firft flairs we faw, and the people in the houfe obferving our drefs to be better than common, entreated us to enter the houfe, and ferved us with a g1af* of wine, which was never before this fo needful. Thus, in about two hours time, we reached our tents fixed in the garden by the care of my brother, who was killed afterwards at the Havannah. I was there informed that the prince's houfe was burnt down to the ground, and that my fervant, as I had directed, took my horfe and ftrong cart to the good prince's afliftan.ee; that he being a remarkable ftrong horfe, and the cart large and new, they packed many pieces of the heft furniture on the cart, and one of the prince's fervants, officioufly, took the management nagement of the horfe from my fervant, who knew him, and in driving out of the gate he whipped the horfe, who, not ufed to fuch difcipline, run off, broke the cart, and al-moft every piece of the furniture, and almofl killed the man. I was truly forry for this ill news, the furniture wTas very coftly, being of the befl materials and workmaufhip which England could produce. I waited upon the princefs and her children, who had retired to a very homely room in their gardener's houle. She was in great diftrefs, but contented herfelf with thankful acknowledgments to divine providence that all their lives were laved, and that things were no worfe. I went to the place where the houfe flood, and found the prince as black as any coallicr, whom I perfuaded to go to the garden for fome refrcfhment and refl. I then went to my lodgings, and found the houle Handing fafe, but all the houfes about it were burnt to the ground. At my arrival in Mofcow the policy appointed me a lodging in a ftone vaulted Wife which had not been inhabited this winter. We had like to have been all fuffoca-ted, of which 1 happened to be telling the prince the day following at dinner. A gentleman, related to the prince's family, and ve-ry rich, was prefent : He faid, that he had a Very great Gothic building of ftone, at no &reat diftance ; that none had inhabited it fince fince his father's death ; and it was reported in Mofcow that it was haunted ; but added, that if I would venture to live in it, I might with great fafety, for there were three good rooms and a kitchen daily kept in order, and well feafoned ; and that as he had fome ftores and granaries in other rooms, he kept thefe in order, and fometimes dined with his family there. I returned him many thanks for his kindnefs, affuring him that 1 was afraid of no goblins,and that the foldiers, who were appointed by me, and I would probably give a very good account of any who might attempt to difturb us in the night time. I inv mediately repaired to that houfe, and lived in it till forced out by the fire, but I foon returned, and lived in it till I went to St Peterfburgh. CHAP. XXXV. Concerning my Journey to St Petersburg}?, paffed there during my Stay, and my Retur® to Mofcow. IN the latter end of July, I received an of" der from the famous Count Lefloig to g° to St Peterfburgh, and there to wait the orders of the medicine-chancery. 1 loft no time in getting ready, and arrived in St Pe~ terfburgh in eight days. The firft thing * did did after my arrival, was to wait upon Count Leftoig, whom I never had feen before this time, and return him thanks for having con-delcended, agreeable to my petition, to order me to come to St Peterfburgh. He was at this time under a cloud, and it was thought could not Hand it long. Count Beftucheff* was his great enemy : It feems they never had agreed fince their difference, which happened about the nature of the punifliment of the ladies and gentlemen formerly taken notice of. At this time the court was at Pe-terfhoff, but Count Leftoig was in St Petersburg, a bad omen that the Emprefs's firft phyfician fhould be at fo great diftance from her perfon. We entered a garden in the neighbourhood of the city, and were told that the count was fifhing at a canal ; when we came near where he was, a fervant prevented our difturblng him. This let me plainly fee what ftate he affumed ; becaufe I take in for granted, that, in no country, fervants dare be infolent to flrangers, unlefs their mailers are either fools or fenftieis. Strangers conftantly receive marks of the greateft ho-fpitality and politenefs from nobility, if their education and natural faculties are anfwer-able to their birth; but upftart noblemen are feldom to be met with, who can keep themfelves within moderation, or their attendants and fervants in order. We had not waited long till the count made his appearance, and very very politely defired us to walk with him to his palace, where he treated us with a dilh of coffee. He feemed to be a man of no learning, nor indeed curiofity. He was a well-made flout man, of a very bold daring countenance, much deformed with gittta rofea, proceeding probably from a grofs conftituti-on and continued habit of drinking for very many years. The countefs was a very beautiful young lady, and had been formerly a lady of honour to the Emprefs. He allied me, What I intended to do? I anfwered, that nothing could be fo agreeable to me as liberty to return to my native country, putting him in remembrance, in as eafy a way as I could, of the many petitions I had preferred to the chancery before I was fent to Perfia; and obferved, that, as I had fpent my be ft days in Ruflia, and had contracted a bad ftate of health, I therefore hoped he would permit me to return home. He anfwered, that peace would loon commence between Great-Britain, France, and Spain, and, in that cafe, I could not expect to meet with the encouragement mentioned in the king's proclamation ; and therefore he thought it more advifeablc to remain in Ruifia : He talked agreeably concerning my fervice, and added, that he intended to provide fome o-ther place for the principal furgeon of the fea-hoipital, and would appoint me in his place, which is both profitable and honourable, able, being the firft in the Tea fervice. I made him a bow, and retired. The next vifit I made was to the late Earl of Hyndford, who at that time was ambaffador from the court of Great Britain, and highly refpe£ted at the court of St Peterfburgh. I foon gained his friendlhip, and retained it as long as he lived. It was by his mafterly influence that the Ruflian troops Were ordered to march to our afliftance ; and pity it was that they were flopped at Prague. They were a body of the moft complete troops I ever faw, commanded by choice generals. Nothing was fo difagreeable to them as tobe ordered back without having feen the enemy, except that they were not commanded by the late General Keith. I make no doubt that they would have given a very good account of the French ; for at that time the French nation was not efteemed by the Ruffians in general: They had not forgotten the bafe carriage of the Marquis Chetardie at the court of St Peterfburgh, and would have exerted their efforts againft the French army, as they efteemed the whole nation altogether treacherous, void of honour, and bafe to the laft degree. It was very dangerous for the French, at that time, to walk the ftreets of St Peterfburgh in the day-time ; and if they had been known in the nighttime, if they efcaped with their lives, they would have been fent to jail; whereas the Britifli Britifh were every where careffed j and this was very much owing to the addrefs of the late Earl of flyndford. A few anecdotes which happened at that court when he was ambaflador there, will, I hope, be agreeable. At his firft appearance, there was fome ceremony to be obferved which was not cu-flomary. Things having been at laft adjusted, the day of his getting audience was fixed. He was carried to court with the greateft folemnity, as ambaffador extraordinary and plenipotentiary from the King of Great Britain. The Emprefs was ftanding under a canopy, three fteps above the floor of the hall, with her right hand upon a cu-iliion. The Earl mounted the three fleps, placed himfelf on the oppofite fide of the table, put on his hat, and made a fhort fpeech, and delivered his credentials into the Emprefs's own hand, who gave them to the then grand chancellor ; he took off his hat, and made three bows at the foot of the throne. After this his firft appearance, he was one the leaft ceremonious (except on public occafions) ambaffador that ever appeared at the court of St Peterfburgh. He would yield place, however, to no ambaffador, except from the Emperor of Germany* with whom he cultivated great friendlhip* At his firft arrival in St Peterfburgh, he was informed that the old field-marfhal prince Dolgaruka Dolgaruka had been confined in Revel during die reign of the Emprefs Anne, purely for the attachment and lincere elteem he had, upon all occafions, declared for the Princefs Elizabeth, now Emprefs; and that in confequence of his fuiferings, and of the lofs of the greateft: half of that noble ancient family, the prince was held hi the greateft eftcem by the Emprefs ; fo that whatever he faid was a law, and fhe upon all occafions tailed him father. To this nobleman the Earl fent his compliments, and invited him to dinner. In return, the prince expreffed his fenfe of the honour which the Earl had done him ; but begged to be excufed, upon account of his great age and infirmities; and allured him, that he would look upon it as a great favour, if he would honour his table With his prefence. This was precifely what the ambaflador expected, and therefore accepted of the prince's invitation. In the time of dinner, the Earl obferved the prince taking 1 ftolen looks at him, and at laft faw ihe tears trickling down the old man's cheeks ; wherefore he begged to know, If he was the dilagreeable caule of fuch ligns of grief? To this the prince anfwered, that he was truly the innocent caule of his grief; adding, that he had a fon whom he much Wed, who was unfortunate, with many of his family, during the reign of the Empreig Anne : That his fon was fo very like the Z-zz Earl? Earl, that whenever he looked at him, it brought his ion's misfortunes into his remembrance. The Earl obferved, that, mdw his fon was happy, he would take it as a great honour to be called his fon ; and, at the fame time, to have the liberty of calling him by, the honourable title of father. This was agreed to by them both ; and, from fuch a trilling circumftance, the Earl gained the prince, who did him every fervice in his power, which was compatible with the intereft of Ruifia. Soon after this the army began to march; and indeed nothing was too hard for the Earl to obtain from the court of St Peterfburgh. I was told that he was fo much mailer of pleafing, and making himfelf efteemed, that he gained the refpecT of the whole Ruifian nobility. The Earl, how good fo-ever, ftill maintained his ftate,and would not fuffer the leaft encroachment ; for inftance. fie had a palace in the city* and a houfe in the country, where he ufed to pals a day or two in the week with a fewr friends. A ferjeant was appointed, with a body of foldiers, to take care of the houfe in the city-and another ierjeant was ftationed at his houfe in the country. One day in the fummer-feafbn the Earl went, as ufual, to his country-houfe ; but was told by the ferjeant, that the Emprefs's mafter mafter of horfe had taken up his Lordfhip's (tables with the Emprcfs's young horfes, who, fome how, had wandered away from the fields where they were feeding. The Earl ordered the horfes to be let out to the fields. This could not fail to make a great noife. The young horfes fcampered faraway, and many fields were by them deftroyed. The mafter of horfe, nettled at this, determined to be revenged. The perfons of ambalfadors in Ruflia are held as facred as thofe of their mailers ; conlequently the mafter of horfe had, as he thought, but one way to gratify his refentment. Lord Hynd-ford's country-hou.fe was iituated on the o-ther lide of a bridge, where a fmall command of foldiers kept watch, to examine all paflengers from the city into the country, and keep order on the high way. Either by his own authority or influence, the mafter of horfe caufed thefe foldiers flop fome carters, who were fent to the -Earl's country-feat with wine, and other provifions. The boors having gone that way frequently, without any molettation or flop from the foldiers, knowing that they were employed by the Britifh ambaflador, inlifted on the right which ambalfadors fervants had. The foldiers denied that they were the ambaffador's fervants, becaufe they were Ruifian boors. Thus from words they came to blows ; and at lafl they were were put under arreft. This being reported to the Earl, he went to court, made his complaint to the Emprefs, and infilled on fatif-faclion. The Emprefs, alhamcd of the matter of horfiVs folly, promifed everything. The Earl demanded, that the mafter of horle Ihould be fent to his houfe formally, to alk pardon. The Emprefs infilled that he fliould not only alk pardon, but that he fliould do it on his knees, and pay all damages. Accordingly, at the Earl's return to his own houfe, one of his fervants acquainted him, that the mailer of horfe demanded an audience of his Lordfhip. The Earl met him at the door of the room, and, as he was going to throw himfelf at his feet, caught him in his arms, and without any farther trouble, forgave every thing ; and, laflly, fent him back to the Emprefs well regaled. At this time the Earl procured a pair of colours for the ferjeant, to preferve him from the mailer of horfe's indignation ; but as he was very honeft and diligent, he kept him by himfelf as long as he refided in Ruifia. One day as the Earl was going to court, four Englifli boatfwains complained to hhn» that tliey had contracted in England to ferve in the Ruifian navy for fifteen crowns per month ; a falary equal to that of a captain of foot at the beginning of the late Swedifh war ; and that the Admiralty had lately fent an an order to Cronftadt, importing, that the boatfwains fliould get no greater wages than the other boatfwains in Rullia, by the regulations, unlefs they engaged to ferve for life. The boatfwains would not agree to this unrea-fonable demand, but inliflcd upon their being paid off, and difmiffed the fervice. Their requifitions were taken no notice of. At lafl they were fent for to the Admiralty, when they had an opportunity of laying their grievances before the Earl, who loft no time in fending to the Admiralty a memorial, requiring that they would do juflice immediately to the boatfwains, either by granting their difcharge, or elfe paying them, as they had at the beginning agreed for ; and that they fliould anfwer his memorial without delay. Eight days paffed without any anfwer. At laft the boatfwains acquainted the Earl, that nothing, in confequence of his memorial, had been done : That the clerks threatened them for having acquainted the ambaffador : That they had reafon to fear that they would be fent dcfpotically to fome diltant place, and probably treated with rigour. Upon tins information the Earl required, by another memorial to the college of foreign affairs, a patfport for four Englifh-tnen, whom he named, and whom he intended to fend directly to London. This col-kge loft no time in complying with his Lordfliip's demand ; and thus they were fent (fern home. The Admiralty was confounded at this affair : They could not tell what to think about the four men, who at once vanifhcd, they knew not where ; and at lafl the prelident fpoke to the Earl, and begged to know, If his Lordfhip could acquaint him about them? After the Earl had in a pretty warm manner expoflulated with him about his not anfwering his memorial, lie frankly let him know, that he had fent them to their own country, and that he was determined to take care that juflice fhould be done to all the King's fubjecls, fo long as he remained in Ruifia j and that if the Admiralty ihould not anfwer the next memorial he might be obliged to fend them, refpectfully and readily, he would make a formal complaint of fuch neglect and indignity to the cabinet, and require fatisfaclion. Sundry examples I could give of the like nature, which at once made hi in much re-fpected and beloved % for though he threatened, yet he never was rigorous, nor carried animolity to any length. It is my opi* nion, that no Britifh fubject ever applied to him without getting redrefs, if their cafe would admit of it ; whicli cannot be faid of many others. I have mentioned thefe examples to let you fee, how honourably ambaifaclor at that court may be cftcemecl, and what power he may juftly exercife, when it is conducted by prudence. I will add one one anecdote more, which, though literally-true, I fcarcely could give credit to, until I was informed of it by undoubted authority. The Earl of Hyndford gave a treat to the principal Ruflian miniitry, and foreign ara-baffadors, who were friends to Great Britain: Some days after that, when he was at court, Monfieur Dallion minifler from France, ac-cofted him, and laid that though their mailers were at war, that ought not to hinder gentlemen from being polite to one another. He faid that he would have taken it very kind if Lord Hyndford, at his late entertainment, had numbered him amongft his friends, and that he would have been very glad to have been invited amongft the reft. The Earl replied that the perfonal regard he had for him prevented that; becaufe he thought that Monfieur Dallion would not have taken it well to have been placed at the foot of the table, below reiidents from the fmallefl flates who were in friendlhip with Great Britain ; and laftly, he imagined that It would have been very dilagreeable for him to have been a witnefs to their drinking the ufual toalts given upon fuch occafions, and- alfo to have been obliged to join with them, and not have had k.in his power ro toaft profperity to his own king and the kingdom of France. Monfieur Da lion hefitated not to affure his Lordfhip that he would have yielded to all that, adding that his court could not take it amifs that he fubmit-ted to the rules of a great affembly, where none but men of great honour were prefent t Upon which, he, Dallion, was invited to the very next entertainment, and yielded to e-Very thing which palled there, with great refignation. Sometime after this, he ac-cofted the Earl, and enumerated what he had tuffered, and the great anxiety he was in during the whole time of the entertainment, and all this he faid he had fubmitted to, purely to (how the regard he had for the perfon of the Earl of Hyndford. He therefore defired in return that the Earl would honour his table with his prefence. The Earl agreed readily to do this, providing Monfieur Dallion would agree ftriclly to adhere to the following rules : That he fliould be received with all the refpect and honours due to an ambaflador from his mailer's moll fincere friends: Secondly, That he fhould fit in the fecond place at the table : Thirdly, That none of the ambrifadors whofe maflers were enemies to Great Britain fliould be prefent ; and lailly, That no health fliould be drunk, nor profperity to the arms of thofe who were at war with Great Britain; and that he fliould drink the King of Great Britain's health immediately after that of the EmpreiVs of Ruifia. To all thefe rules he agreed ; and when the Earl's coach appeared at the gate of Monfieur Dai-lion's lion's houfe, when a very great fliower fell; Monfieur Dallion, afraid that the Earl Would remain no time there, if he did not immediately go to receive him, went out to the coach door uncovered, and drefled in his bell cloaths, through a wide court to receive him. Unluckily the coach door could Hot be foon opened, and as the Earl role up to go out of the coach, his cloak fell off which took up fome time to get adjufled, during which Monfieur Dallion was expofed to a deluge of rain, which, at his return With the Earl, obliged him to undrefs and put on another fuit. At the entertainment every thing, according to the agreement, was °bferved with great faith on Monfieur Dalli-°n's part. What intention Monfieur Dallion could have in thus courting the friend-nYip of an ambaffador whofe mafter was at war with the French I cannot tell : but I am certain that it had a very bad effect at the court of St Peterfburgh for him. Ever after he was defervedly defpifed by the Ruffian jniniftry, which effectually put it out of "is power to do any fervice for his country, nor durft he complain of the fmall regard Paid to him, or to his demands, fince he had voluntarily fo lliamefully degraded himself. I never had much experience hi govern-^nt affairs, yet I cannot pafs this without °hferving how much it is necelTary to fend 4 A men men as ambafTadors not only well qualified in the ways of intrigue, and the knowledge of {late affairs, but who have natural perfections, fuch as a graceful appearance, and a fenfe of the honour due to their prince, endued with rcfolution to take all ways of in-fuiing into the minds of the people to whom they are fent a high idea of the power and glory of the prince and nation they repre-ient. Though I muff acknowledge that Britain fent, in the time of my peregrination in Ruflia, very able men, who had relblution and abilities to ferve their king, yet others were fent who had not the addrefs to give the Rullians any opinion of their qualifications. But at this time, it was very necef' fary to fend fuch as the late Earl was : It #s certain, that with eafe he obtained all th$ his prince wanted, and could have got muck more if it had been thought necelTary. He lived in great friendfhip with all the princi' pal miniflers about the court, and yet the art to make them refpecT him, and, a* it were, be afraid of offending him. The he was altogether affable, yet in points 0l" honour, and what regarded the well-being of his country, he was immoveable, and upon all occafions, made the Ruffians fenh-ble, that he would rifque every thing in W power for the good and glory of his prince and country. Upon a certain occafion, ne threatened to leave the court abruptly if ine minifhf miniftry permitted one, who at that time was looked upon as no well-willier to our government, to come to the court of Ruflia, or even fo much as come into their country* In this he was pofitive, and fucceeded. His health not permitting him to flay longer, h~ obtained leave from the king, and left the court of Rullia, regreted by every one : And to the day of his death kept up a cor-t'cfponclence, and friendfhip with the principal lords of that court. Many mallerly affairs I could write about the late Earl of Hyndford, which happened much to his honour in Ruflia during his flay there, but I have not room here for them. The meafure of Count Lefloig's regency ftow drew near a dole; his enemies, the chief °f whom was Count Beftufhoff, had got the hetter of him at lafl. On the firft Thurfday °f December, I went to pay my compliments to him, and enquire about what he Was determined to do concerning me. He to be in fome confufion, faid that ■Hs head pained him much, that he would have been glad that I had dined with him, but his headache prevented that : But collided by alluring me, that on Monday doming I fliould receive orders to make my repair to the fea hofpital. This was agree-* jjhle news, and this was the lafl time I ever aw him. On Sunday following in the time °? cUvine fervice, General Apraxjn furrounded ed his houfe with two or three hundred of the guards, went to him and demanded his fword. Count Leftoig anfwered, that he was determined to obey even to death her Imperial Majefly's orders, but ordered the general out of his prefence, fwearing that he would fooner plunge his fword in his bread, than deliver it to fuch a worthlefs perfon ; and required that a man of honour fhould be fent to demand his fword. General Apraxin went out, dreading that he would put his threats in execution, and fent another, to whom he readily delivered his fword, and was immediately fent to the caftie. Upon enquiry, they were informed that the eountefs was at church, receiving the holy ficrament of the Lord's iupper. A captain with a few men went to the reformed Lutheran church, where he was told* that fhe was at the Lord's table : He waited till the fervice was over, and, without her fufpecling any danger, he followed N* fledge till fhe arrived at her own hou^* where flie was much furprifed to fee the court full of foldiers, and there fhe vvras made acquainted with her misfortune. She behaved very decently, and without vain re* flections was quietly conducted to the cattle* It was reported that he was confined in a room by himfelf, and fhe was confined in one immediately above him, but without pollibility of their feeing one another, 01 having having any intercourfe, not even by letters. Many faults were reported to have been com" mitted by Count Leftoig, but I gave no great credit to any of thefe reports; becaufe nothing is more common, in defpotic countries, than to accufe ftate prifoners of crimes of which they are innocent. I really believe, that, tho' he was very unpolifhed, he was an honeft man, and did much good in his department. After three or four days confinement, it was reported to the Emprefs, that he had neither eaten nor drunk any thing fince he was confined ; and the keepers were afraid he would die, being already very weak. The Emprefs wrote him a letter with her own hand, fignifying, that, though, for fe-veral weighty reafons, flie found herfelf obliged to confine him, yet flie never could forget the fervices he had done for her, fo far as to permit any other punifliment to be inflicted upon him ; therefore defired that he would take care of his health ; for flie had given orders that every thing he would call for fliould be furniflied out of her kitchen and cellars. Upon receiving fuch refreshing news from the Emprefs's own hand, he read the letter, (which was delivered to him by a captain, who reported what follows:) He killed it, and called for a bottle of Burgundy, which he drank off at once in a health to the Emprefs. One of the furgeons belonging to the army told me, one year after he was fent into the caftie, that one day having having been accidentally there, he faw Count Leftoig walking upon the wall, with a long beard as white as fnow ; but faid, that he was told he never had feen the Countefs fince the misfortune happened. At laft he was fent to Siberia ; but he and Munich returned to St Peterfburgh after the death of the Emperor Peter III. He was once banifhed by Peter the Great, and got himfelf reftored by his own ingenuity, in the following manner, as I was informed. He, being one of the furgeons of the palace, one day was fent for by the Emperor, who afked him, If he inclined to marry ? Leftoig anfwered, That if he was fo happy as to get one agreeable to him, he would very willingly. Peter produced a young lady, who attended about Catharine, very beautiful, and afking him, How he liked the lady ? told him at die fame time, that he intended to portion her nobly. Leftoig faid, that he could have no objection, either to her beauty, youth, or the portion the Emperor de-iigned her ; but, in the moft unbecoming indifcreet manner, faid, that he would marry none of his w-s ; adding, that fhe was big with child. The Eirrperor, provoked at fuch audacity, ordered him to be banifhed to Cazan, and there be kept under a very ftrict guard, with a foldier conftantly in the room where he flept, with orders, that none but foldiers Ihould have accefs to fpeak with with him ; and that he fliould have neither paper, pen, nor ink. He lay in confinement many years, until the Emprefs Anne mounted the throne. Upon a day, the governor of Cazan's lady was dangeroufly ill of fome difeafe, which the medical people in Cazan declared incurable. Leftoig, juftly reputed a good iurgeon, was fent for. He recovered the lady and his own liberty, in the following manner. He told the governor, that if he would permit him to write for fome materials, he would prepare a medicine in his own room, which would probably recover his lady, which he faid he fufpect-ed the apothecary could not prepare to his fatisfaction. Peter and Catharine being dead, the governor had no objection, efpecially as it was deiigned only to write for a few drugs in his prefence; and Lefloig received a large paper of dry materials, which he carried to his room. It is cufloinary in Ruffia to fend materials wrapped up in a flieet of white paper, and that covered with a flieet of ftrong gray paper. With a crow quill, and ink made of a fo-lution of foot in water, he wrote a letter to the Emprefs Anne, when the foldier was a-fleep, and got it delivered in the following manner, to a trufly friend, a merchant in Cazan, who carried it faithfully to St Peterfburgh . When When the letter was ready, he carefully concealed it from the foldier. Next day he faw his friend palling through a fquare op-polite his door. He pretended to take a pinch of Spanifli fnnff, and afking the foldier, If he chuied to talle fo delicious fnuff ? artfully threw it in his face, under pretence oflbme fudden difeale, which blinded him long enough to prevent his feeing him give the letter to his benefactor, who loft no time in getting it put into the Emprefs's hand ; who fent for him to St Peterfburgh, and, at his own defire, placed him by the princefs Elizabeth, with whom he remained till he had helped her to mount her father's throne ; and yet, at this late time of life, he was fent a prifoner to the caftie, thence to Siberia, and was brought back to St Peterfburgh fince 1 left the empire, as has been faid. Archiator Dr Fifher would never grant Leftoig a greater falary than what is appointed by the regulations, to furgeons belonging* to regiments, though he had frequently fol-licited an augmentation ; which was the reafon, that, when the late royal branches were arretted by Elizabeth, Dr Fifher was alfo confined to his apartment, where he was long neglected ; but at laft got fome of his friends palling by the window, to beg, that Mr Leftoig would caufe fend him fomething to eat and drink, declaring, that he was like to ftarve. Leftoig fent him notice, that the doctor doctor could notfo foon have forgotten that he caufed hhn keep lent, or rather a faft, many years ; therefore, faid he, it was but rea-fonable that he, in his turn, fliould, after living fo long in luxury, faft two or three days, for his pleafure. Soon after this, Dr Kaw Boerhaave was created archiator ; but the court went to Mofcow, which was the reafon I could get nothing done in my affairs, and was glad of liberty to follow the court to that city, which I did in January 1749, and attended the archiator, who promifed to do fomething for nie as foon as he could conveniently. C H A P. XXXVL Concerning what happened in Mofcow, and my Journey to Riga. KAw Boerhaave was a true Hollander, and rofe to this firft department in the nicdical affairs by his connections with the tate learned great Boerhaave ; for he had few other qualifications in the medical way; neither was he acquainted with the regulations of the chancery : So that it behoved him to be in a great meafure fubject to his ^cretaries. He loved his bottle too much to have time to examine into the weighty affairs committed to his charge. My affairs, 4 B however^ however, were brought to fuch a length, that he found himfelf obliged either to grant my difmillion, or an honourable employment; but I foon found, that the firft could not be granted eafilv, and therefore laid my account with many delays ; yet thefe I little regarded ; for, by my practice in Mofcow, I foon gained more money than ever I had done formerly, by both my falary and fees joined together ; and therefore, being contented, I afked nothing from them, efpecially as my falary, by Peter the Great's regulations, ought to have been paid by the medicine chancery, who kept me on their books, nor would grant my difmillion. At laft, in the month of May, I received a meflage from the late Earl of Hyndford, de-firing me to wait upon Dr Kaw Boerhaave next morning early at the imperial palace: I did fo ; and he rejoiced, as he faid, to have it in his power to give me an exceeding good living, and that by her Majefty*5 defire. He told me, that the Emprefs had ordered him to fend me to take care of the health of Count Rafumofki's mother, who lived in the Ukraine : That my falary fhould not only be continued, but augmented by fifty rubles out of her Majefly's privy purfe : That I fhould have a good houfe to live in ; and that the lady had agreed to grant me men and women fervants, free of all demands; and alfo to keep my houfe well ftored with all kinds of provifions, and grant a coach and horfes to be always in readinefs at my call ; and, laftly, that my family fliould be tranfported, with as much baggage as I pleafed, at her expence. I acknowledge fuch a propofal might have been very acceptable to many ; but it was by no means agreeable to me. I obferved to the archiator, that I had been employed already in a way which I had ever efteemed very honourable; and therefore begged, that he would not take it ill, if I rejected this ; though, at the fame time, I returned him my hearty thanks for the kindnefs he had fliown me. He defired me to take a glafs, and tell him frankly what objections I could reafonably have againft it. I did fo ; and obferved, that both he and I had certainly a natural love for liberty ; and therefore made no doubt that he would be a competent judge, whether my reafons were folic!. I had no need to tell him what my fervices had been, and how much the medicine chancery had been, from time to time, fatisfied with them; which appeared by their books, and the many orders I had received, declaring their fa-tisfacYion. I obferved, that it appeared very ft range to me, that I fliould, after fo long and fuch diftinguifhed fervices, be appointed only to take care of the health of an old woman * man, though ever fo great a favourite, which was no fmall objection to me ; for, if flie fhould die of any difeafe, under my care, though I attended her nigl-it and day, and had the skill of a Boerhaave, yet it was not impoffible that I might be blamed : That I could frankly fubmit to his decifion ; but that none knew how long he might live, or incline to ft ay in Ruflia. Laftly, I obferved, that my family at prefent confifted of two fons, and in all probability would foon in-creafe: That if J fliould happen to die there, they might run a risk of lofing their liberty, at fuch a great diftance from their relations. To confirm the poflibility of which, I related fome obfervations of the like kind, which I had made, fince { was in Ruflia, the thoughts of which made me frequently very uneafy. I? for theft and the like rea-fons, conjured him to forgive me, and to befriend me fo far as to get the Emprefs, and others concerned, to appoint me to fome o-ther place, and to pardon my not comply* ing, efpecially as I had already impaired my health very much in fuch unhealthy hot countries. He anfwered in a, very fympa-thizing manner, and defired I would wait a little till he fpoke with the Vice-Chancellor Vorontfoff. I obeyed : He foon returned, and affured me, that he had been fofuccefl-fui as to fatisfy both the Emprefs and others concerned, chiefly on account of my bad ftate {late of health, which, he told them, was certainly true. Lord Hyndford was glad that I fucceeded fo well: But at lafl I received a meflage in the beginning of June from the Earl to dine with him, where Dr Kaw Boerhaave would be, and required that I fliould come before dinner ; becaufe he had fome* what to impart to me wliich concerned me much. At my arrival the Earl told me, that he expected foon to be recalled : That he had follicited the King for that purpofe, 011 account of his bad (late of health; and therefore defired me to cohfider whether I was refolved to go home, or enter into the fervice ; telling me, that the archiator had propofed to employ me as furgeon-general to the army commanded by Count Lacy ; and that he was to do fo, agreeable to the Em-prefs's pleafure. I anfwered, that I would rather ferve in the army or fleet, than in a-ny place depending upon the capricious humours of courtiers ; and that as the field-marfhal was, by all reports, a very good man, I was willing to accept of that place. At dinner this affair was agreed to, without ciny difficulty ; and, at the fame time, the Earl and he were very merry at my refufing to fake care of an old wife, though both agreed, that my reafons were very good. Next morning I had orders to go to the reformed church, to have a newjurament or path adminflered to me by the par fon, in confequence confequence of my advancement, and to repair immediately thereafter to the medicine chancery, where I would receive my com-miffion and inftrucYions. When I arrived at die church, I found one of the fecretaries with the parfon. We entered the church, and the parfon was going to inform me what the nature of an oath was, But 1 cut him (hort, by telling him, that he might fave his time and trouble, becaufe I was convinced the medicine chancery were well affured that I knew the nature of an oath as well as he, or any other ; and therefore defired him to proceed, as he was directed, without farther needlefs ceremony. This flartled the felf-fufficient prieft ; but the fecretary convinced him of the truth of my a/fertion ; and added, that it would be taken very ill, if he made any delay ; which at once eafed his over fcrupulous confcience, and me from the trouble of fubmitting to hear much of his pedantry and impertinence. Next day I received my inftruc-tions, and was appointed to wait on the college of war, for my difpatches from it. I was at this time in fome perplexity ; for, when I left St Peterfburgh laft, my- wife was not recovered of child-bed, but arrived in Mofcow as foon as fhe and the children could, without danger, bear the feverity of the weather ; conlequently I had furnifhed my houfe with every thing necellary. I was afraid that that I might have received orders to march to the army in Livonia in three days, nor could I altogether truft to the dilatorinefs of the fecretary. I therefore went to my quondam patient General Apraxin, who Was prefident of the college of war, and told him the truth, begging that I might be indulged a few days to dilpofe of my coach, horfes, and furniture. He advifed me to call at the college daily in the morning, telling me, that they would be in no hurry, if I did not urge them, and ordered that I Ihould acquaint him when ever I was ready. This advice had the defired effect:, for I had difpofed of every thing before they had once thought of writing any thing relating to my difpatches. Next morning, after I was ready, I went early to the general's houle. I Was told in the antichamber that he was in bed, but I had not waited long till I heard him call upon his fervants. I entered the room, though forbid by his officers, and told him that I was ready to march at an hour's warning, and returned fincere thanks for his prudent advice. We had fcarcely done fpeak-ing, when the principal fecretary of the war-office appeared with a great bundle of writings, I fbppofe for the prefident to fign. The general allied him, If my difpatches Were ready ? The other anfwered, that he had not fo much as heard any thing about them. The general feemed furprifed at that, and obferved, ferved, that he did not keep his fubalteras in good order, commanded him inftantly to return to the war-office with me, and, without any delay, expedite my affairs by the time he fliould arrive, when he would fign in the office all the other affairs which were in readinels. We went out together. The fecretary, very uneafy in his mind, afked me, Where my coach was ? I told him that I had fold it, having no farther ufe for one ; whereupon, to lofe ho time, lie defired me to take a feat in his, for he imagined the general was very angry, telling me that he wifhed I had applied to him* I anfwered, that I was an intire ftranger in the war-office, and had applied daily to the fecretary, whofe bufinefs it was to get ready iny difpatches. When we arrived, they were not only informed of the general's angry orders, but commanded riot to ftir out of the office till I was difpatched, which was very foon effected; and next morning T, for the laft time, departed from Mofcow towards St Peters-burgh, in my way to Riga. General Aprax-ih was a gentleman of a good family, and though he was, I believe, juftly efteemed ail excellent prefident of the war-office, yet he never was reputed a good foldier. He was a kind honeft man, and was unfortunate in carrying on the late war againft the King of Prufiia, for which he was, by the Emprefs's orders orders arretted, and died fuddenly under confinement. Being quite ready, I went to the palace to return thanks to the archiator, demand his orders, and take my leave of him. He was Writing fome what, and defired me to fit down a little. Here I met with my old friend Monfieur Fufadier, who was at this time bo-dy-furgeon to the Emprefs. Whilit we were talking, the Emprefs entered the room in great hafte, and paffed us before we were aware of her being there. She went flraight to the archiator, before he could pay any compliment, and begged he would ufe all his art to recover a lady dangeroufiy ill, alk-ing, at the fame time, what hopes he had of her recovery. As near as 1 can remember, he faid, Madam, all care, except that of decency, is need lefs ; for flie mull die, nor have I the fmallelt hopes of her recovery. Upon this the Emprefs burfl into tears, which file would have concealed : After fhe was compofed a little, Ihe afked, Who I was ? he told her, and (aid, that I was to fet out from Mofcow directly for Riga to take care of the anny, and particularly to attend the perfon of the Field-marfhal Lacy. She deigned to advance to the place where I Hood, and, with all the graceful fweetnefs with which good-ftefs could infpire an illuftrious perfbnage, Was pleafed to fay, we have been informed of ^ou, we defire that you'll take as good care 4-C " of of the good old count's health, as you have done of Prince Golitzin's, for which you fliall gain our efteem. She ftretched out her hand, which I confidered as a high diflinclion, and moil refpeclfully kilfed' it. I had frequently feen the Emprefs, but never was fo nigh her before : She was of a large flature, and in-clineable to be fat, but extremely beautiful J and in her countenance I faw fo much mild-nefs and majefly, that I cannot in words eX-prefs them. Her hair was black, and her rfkin white as " fnow unfunn'd." I humbly anfwered, that her Majefly's orders fliould be obeyed mod reiigioufly. She was pleafed to fay, with a placid fmile, that flie doubted noihing of it, and in an inflant retired. At this time Count Ptafumoflke was attending her Majefly. It is really furprifmg that * fat, though young woman, could move i° cleverly as the Emprefs did, in fo much that I could fcarce hear her feet upon the floor ? but indeed her anguft prefence had nmch difconcerted me. Before I leave Mofcow, I hope it will be agreeable to the reader to take notice of what paffed worth obfervation in that city, during my flay there, which I fliall do in as few words as poilible. Formerly I obferved, that, at our arrival in Mofcow, I had recovered Prince Golitzin's fon Michael, which excited the enmity of Dr Boenni, an Italian, who had taken care of him before my arrt- val; but the recovery prevented his hurting me any other way than by flander and detraction, to which he had no averfion. An opportunity, however, as he thought, foon offered of reducing me to the neceility of becoming his humble fervant. One Prince Vol-konfke was taken ill of a very malignant fever : His relations fent for me on the 6th of May 1748: He was about fifty years old, and had been complaining two days before that, and had all the fymptoms of a malignant fever. I attended him twice a-day, and pref bribed every medicine which I thought could contribute to his recovery ; and indeed he feemed to be in no danger. The prince's coach was fent for me every morning and evening ; but, as on the 9th day of May no meffage came, I concluded, that he found himfelf either eafier, or elfe had employed fome other, of which I was very glad. On the nth day, the coach was fent early, Entreating me to make all hafte : Having enquired at the liveryman what was the reafon the coach was not fent the day before ; and having been informed that Dr Boenni had that day been lent for, and had declared that I had miftaken the prince's difeafe, faying that it was only an intermittent fever, skiing, that in a very fhort time he would Leflore him to health : But alas I faid the fer-vant, he is now delirious, and all his relati-°ns are afraid of him. I defired them to return turn with the coach, and acquaint their mafter, that my other patients, who had uied me with honour, required my attendance, and therefore begged to be excufed. At dinner-time, the coach was fent a fecond time to my commander's, Prince Golitzin, with a letter to him, in treating him to per-fuade me to go. After obferving to this good prince the danger I was in to conteft with a phyfician, who might have it foon i*1 his power to hurt my character, before I got it eflablimed, I contented to go. When I entered the room where my patient lay, the putrid fmell alone was fufficient to convince me of the danger he was in; but when I advanced to the bed, and had taken notice of every fymptom, I hefitated not to declar , that all hopes of recovery were now gone ; whereas I left him in a very promifing way* I added, that I would, after fuch a declaration, order nothing for him. I told them, however, that if they would fend for Dr Blumentrofe (who had been archiator to Pe' ter II. a phyfician greatly famed, and very defervedly) though a flranger to me, 1 would take care that every thing fliould be done which he fhould prefcribe, and clefired them at the fame time to fend to the grand apothecary, and get a copy of all the medicines prescribed by Dr Bocnni and me, that Dr Blumentrofe might at once judge of this affair, without rifking the patient. This was agreed agreed to, though with difficulty, becaufe Dr Blumentrofe's fees were very high. Dr Blumentrofe did me juflice, and approved of every thing I had done: He agreed alfo with me in declaring the patient paft recovery ; but added, that ftrong veficatories fliould be applied to the extremities, at which it was not eafy to be grave, conn der-ing that he had jufl now declared that the young man was paft all recovery, and hefitated not to tell him (for we fpoke in Latin, when we did chufe the byflanders fliould not know what we were talking about) that this advice furprifed me ; but the old and artful fon of Galen gave me a leflbn, which was, that in Mofcow, unlefs you order velicatories to be applied, they imagine that you do not believe the patient to be in danger; but, faid he, if velicatories be ordered, whether you mention danger or not, they take it for granted that you believe him to be in a bad way. He affined' the prince's relations that Dr Bocnni had miftaken the dileafc, and hefitated not to fay, that the prince might have recovered, if Boenni had not croffed my courfe, and followed his own. The prince, according to our prediction, died on the ] 3th. This affair haftened Boenm's retreat from Mofcow to his native country, Italy. I thought proper to write this, to let the reader fee that fuch bafenefs can be foon detected and punifhed in Rullia, which is not the cafe here ; for for here it is eafy, in a clandeftine way, to hurt the reputation of the heft of men, nor can this villainy eafily be detected, fo as to get the author punifhed. If Boenni had not retreated, I could have had juflice done with great eafe ; but as it happened, I was no lo-fer, as in a very fhort time the news of this affair was related through the houfes of the moft illuftrious and intelligent people in Mofcow ; and, though he was not punifhed, my character was vindicated. Having been informed, that many reliques, curiofities, and variety of riches were to be expofed in the metropolitan church in the Cremline, or caftie, where the ancient imperial palace ftands ; I, during the week after Eafter Sunday, expreffed a defire of feeing all thefe things ; but I was told, that people went out of devotion ; and at fuch a time they apprehended it would be dangerous for any who did not profefs the Greek religion, and conlequently crofs themfelves, and kifs the reliques, to appear there ; for the priefts gave out, that all flrangers, particularly of the reformed religion, held fuch folemnity in great derifion. At laft however, we fell upon a fcheme, which fucceeded, though not without fome danger of a difcovery. I went with Prince Golitzin's children, and when we entered the church, I received a cloak, as if I had been a fuperior fervant. In the greateft area of the church were placed ced two tables, declining on each fide, as long as the church was broad, excepting a narrow paflage left for people to go by the ends of them. Upon thefe tables, on each fide, were placed the reliques, confining of many thoufands of bones, and other things belonging to the faints ; fome of them were very much decayed, but had the ends covered with filver ; and fome fingers and hands were there dried, as the people in Norway dry their fifh. The devotees go by the fides of thefe tables, killing, with great devotion, many of them, while a prieft goes along, bawling out their names, and what wondrous things they had done when living, and fince their death, particularly in curing difeafes. We fcarcely had gone round one of thefe tables, when one of the prieft-hood, who was Handing at the end, to take care left any of the devotees might make free to Ileal fome precious ftones or metal, called out, that he had obferved me to go round one table, without once either making the fign of the crofs, or kilfing any of the reliques ; I made anfwer that, after the prince had none, it would be time enough, and more refpecTtful for me to begin; this fatisfied them, and I efcaped without having been challenged a fecond time. After they had paid their devotions, and gratified our curiofity with what was to be feen there, we were led through other apartments, where they they buried their emperors, and kept fome of their principal reliqueSi and an incredible flore of riches. Amongft the reft, we law one of the nails which pierced Chrift's hand. This was kept in a cafe of gold, of very curious workmanlhip, adorned with precious Hones. It very much refembled a long rufty nail, with which fmiths in Britain fix the i-ron to their cart wheels, but longer. We were next prefented with a piece of Chrift's vefture, which was wrought like flocking work, of a brown colour. I cannot deny that at the fight of thefe, whether they were true or falfe, I was fuddenly feized with a very ftrange inexpreffible melancholy, which did not foon leave me, and cannot help thinking that expofing fuch reliques feldom, and with folemn ceremony, muft have a very good effect upon people, who implicitly believe whatever their priefts teach ; for I could obferve evident ligns of the paftions of many people having been put into very great commotions at the viewing of thele reliques, faid to have been our Saviour's. We next were defired to view the fepulchre of their Emperor Demetrius, who was murdered when young, and whofe body decayed not. The body, if there was any, lay in a fepulchre of marble, whofe fides were fo high, that I could not fee into it. It was covered with rich illks, upon which were many thoufands of pearl and precious ftones fixed travels. 577 fixed with needle-work. They indeed uncovered it, to let the devotees view the imperial faint, and people of fmall ftaturewere helped up, but, I believe, not with any de-i'ign to let them have a fenfible view of what was there ; for they helped me up alfo, but inftantly let me down again, telling the by-ftanders, that I had been honoured with a light of the holy Emperor's face and hand ; neither of which I now declare to have feen, though I thought it very expedient, when I was there, not to contradict them, efpecially as they alked me no queftions; In a fmall apartment by themfelves, we law the fepul-chres of Ivan Vafiiyitch the tyrant, and his Emprefs; and what fufprized me not a little was, that thefe two fepulchres were covered with the richeft filks in the church, except the young: Saint Emperor. Notwidiftand-ing that, the Ruffians univerfally hold the Emperor Ivan Vafiiyitch to have been no Saint, but one of the moft terrible tyrants that ever difgraced humanity. It were better, if poifible, to forget the very exiftence of fuch execrable wretches, and not preferve the remembrance of them by marks of honour and renown. But it appears, that the/ the Ruffians hate this tyrant's critel actions, they neverthelcis prof els fo great refpeel for his imperial family, that they thus venerate his fepulchre and that: of his wife. 4 D In In many of the Ruffian churches I have feen prodigious riches ; and I believe, were they all put together, they would not equal what I faw in tins ; but yet I was allured, that the Trinity Monaftery, fixty verfls diftant from Mofcow, is by far the richeft monaftery in Rullia. Soon after my return from St Peterfburgh to Mofcow, I was fent for to vifit one of the Emprcfs's principal fecretaries about her dome!tic affairs, wiio was faid to be a great favourite. When I arrived he was in bed, but foon put on a night-gown, and fat down at a table. The accounts he gave me about his complaints were very confufed, and indicated no diftincl: difeafe, but frequently contradicted one another. It has been my cuftom, when I found it proper, to tell my patients the truth ; and therefore I told the fecretary, that although I had been long converfant with fick people in many laT#e hofpitals, befides my private patients, I Was very much at a lofs to form any juft idea a* bout his difeafe. I oblervccl to him, that His pulfe, and all the non-naturals, according to his own account, feemed to be unexcep-tionably good ; that therefore I imagined he had no other complaint that was not, in a great meafure, imaginary. He was a good-natured man ; lmiled, and laid, that his lh-difpolltion was only fome diforder in *!MS ftomach ; and that if I would order fome bitters bitters for him, he doubted not that thev would recover him. I anfwered, that as fuch medicines could not hurt him, I had no objection, and immediately wrote for them. I had been there but a very fhort time when three gentlemen entered, and familiarly took their chairs. My patient told me that they were his friends and fubfecre-taries, who frequently came and palled the evening with him, when the hurry of affairs was over ; and faid, that he would take it very kind, if I would fup with him and them; to which I ealily contented ; but I began to reflect, that many foreigners have been privately arreited by fuch people, which made me extremely unealy. The lecretary obferved it, and fufpecting the caule, gave me the ftrongefl affurance of friendlhip and freedom in every thing. I was determined at once to know fomething of my real fitua-tion, and acknowledged, that I, being a ftranger, could not help being concerned, though I briikly added, that, in relpecl of juflice, I had nothing to fear, and did not care if all my public and private actions, fince I had the honour of ferving in Ruflia. were laid before the Emprefs herfelf. Upon this they affured me that I was very lale, and faid, that the Emprefs had been informea a-bout me, and that if I would accept of a place in the guards, I fhould be cmpl yed there, which, they affirmed, was lite fame as If I were employed by the palace. I acknowledged my obligations to them, but declined that employ ; and told them, that I liked the fervice of the fleet, army, or ho-fpitals, as they were more certain and lefs precarious than any in the palace. After this frank declaration, they promi-fed to fpeak no more about it, and kept their promife. The principal fecretary artfully brought in a difcourfe about our Perfian expedition ; the reafon of which at firft I did not underlland : However, I was much on my guard. At laft the hiftory of Backunin the conful was required, which was related with all candour on my lide; and thus we fpent the evening very agreeably* At parting, the fecretary defired 1 would pay him aTvifit next evening, which I pro-mifed to do, and drove home ; where I no fooner arrived, than 1 was told that Prince Golitzin wanted to fee me immediately, i loft no time in driving to his houle, where I found him with Major Berezin, the reft of the family being all in bed. The prince alk". ed me many queftions concerning what palled at the fecretary's, and I informed -him of every thing. At which he was well pleafed, and intreated me to go there as often as the fecretary defired ; telling me that he was hip good friend, and intended me no hurt, but wanted much to be well informed about Backunin, who was arrived in" Mofcow-. And And he further defired, that I would come to him every night after I left the fecretary, before I went to my own houfe. This I did pointedly. In fhort, the fecretary and his companions engaged me five nights fuccef-fively ; and begged that I would not take it ill, if they took down fome notes of my recital : I affured them, that what I faid was true ; and therefore they were at liberty to write it all, whicli I fliould not feruple, if required, to fubferibe. Accordingly, they wrote feveral parts of my narration, but did not defire me to fign them. At laft the prince had leave to pay his refpects to the Emprefs ; who, it was faid, received him coldly, and explained herfelf by throwing out fome accufations that were lodged 2-gainft him by Backunin. The prince begged, that he might remain no time under her di (pleafure, but that fhe would be gracipui-ly pleafed to order the fenate to canvafs thefe affairs as foon as poiiibJe. The Emprefs was gracioufly pleafed to grant his requefl, and forthwith difpatched her orders to the fenate to leave off all other affairs, till Backunin's acculation of Prince Golitzin was tried and ended. The fenate afTembled next day, and fent for Backunin ; who, like a fool, appeared with a fword. They fhowed him the fword which Prince Golitzin had taken from him, and a Iked him, How he came by another ? He anfwered, that he had other two. two, and therefore put on the other ; which the fenate inftantly deprived him of, and called over his affairs at once. All the gentlemen, except Major Cherkeftbff, who had written every thing which he knew concerning Backunin's tran(actions, were prefent in Mofcow, who had been in Perfia, and therefore the fenate was at no lofs to find out the truth : So that they ended this mighty affair in one day ; and reported to the Emprefs in the evening, that Backunin was certainly guilty of very many bainous crimes deferving death ; and that his accufation of Prince Golitzin was abfolutely falfe in every rcfpect : For which reafon the fenate had ordered him into clofe confinement, till her imperial Majefly's pleafure fliould be known. The next morning, after the Emprefs had. received the report from the fenate, I was well pleafed to fee every branch of that very illuftrious family of Golitzin in high fpirits, and full of gladnefs. Whenever the princefs faw me, Ihe delired me to walk with her into a room by ourfelves, and there fhe gave me the following narration. Yeflernight, faid fhe, you know what un-eafincls I fuifered on account of the bale Backunin, which was incrcaicd by the fena-tors having communicated no part of their tranfactions to-the prince ; neither would he fend to know, thoudi I intreated him with the greateft earneilnefs. In this perplexity ty I went to bed : I could fleep none ; the prince feemed altogether infenlible of any danger, frequently laughing at my weaknefs. At laft he went to bed, and inftantly fell a-fleep. He had not flept one hour when I heard a very uncommon rude noife at the gate. Many of the fervants, afraid of fire, ran to the gate, to know what the meaning bf it was. At laft our valet de chambre entered the bed-chamber, and told the prince, that an efdavoy, or meflenger, from the Emprefs, waited for an audience of the prince. At hearing of an efdavoy's arrival from the Emprels, I loft, faid Ihe, at once, all my faculties, and could not help fcreaming out, that our family was undone. The prince begged of me to keep my temper; telling me, that it was impoffible any danger could happen. But, faid he, if God would have it fo, we ought to fubmit, like good Chriftians. He rofe from his bed, put on his morning-gown, and calmly ordered the efdavoy to come to him. He demanded what orders he brought from her imperial Majefty, with the greateft compofurc. The efdavoy anfwered, Long may your illultri-ous family continue in the Emprefs's high favour ; you are highly efteemed by her Majefty : She has been gracioully pleafed to command me to come and tell you, that Ihe is glad to find, by a report given in from the fenate, that you are the fame honourable perfon 584 VOYAGES a n d perfon (lie bad ever efteemed you ; and that Backunin is a villain, more vile than you had reprefentcd him. She has lent orders for your Excellency to take your places at the council-board, and at tile fenate ; and fhe has conftituted you prefident of the board of admiralty, declaring the cmbafly to be at an end. She has appointed your eldeft fon Alexander, (now vice-chancellor of Ruflia,) to. be a eounfellor by her imperial palace. She has ordered your fecond fon to remain fometime yet with Count Golofkin the Ruffian minifler in Holland. And, laftly, flie has conftituted your third fon, Michael, a ferjeant by the horfe-guards. (This is equal to a captain, if fent to the army.) Thele are the commands her Majefty ordered me to communicate to you, without lofs of time. The good old prince returned thanks to God, and asked his princeis, If flie had an hundred rubles in the houfe ? She anfwered, that flie had only about eighty ; he directed his valet de chambre to get twenty from the major ; faying, he never could give a lefs fum than an hundred rubles to a inef> fenger like him ; and at the fame time drel-fed, and ordered his coach to be got in rea-dinefs. He went to the Emprefs to return, I dare fay, fincere thanks for the favour and honour fhe had been pleafed to confer upon his family. She told him, that fhe had e- ver Ver entertained a very good opinion of him, particularly for his Heady honefty, which, flie was certain, nothing could (hake : That ihe had promifed, before he fet out for Perfia, that flie would, if he happened to die in that expedition, to patronize his family ; and that though he had returned in fafety, fhe neverthelefs would continue to fhow them e~ vident marks of her high efteem. She asked, How Princeis Tatiana had behaved, for that was Princeis Golitzin's chriftened name, when the efdavoy entered his houfe ? He told her juft what I have written above, and how much flie was alarmed. At which flie laughed, and faid, that flie expected it would be fo, becaufe flie was a woman of high paflion s. N. B. "There are about fixty efdavoys kept attending the palace, to be always in readi-nefs to be fent upon any extraordinary affairs, and one of thefe fellows have been known to take, by the imperial order, the greateft fubjecl: in Ruifia into cuftody ; fo that it is no wonder that the princefs was a-larmed, when a meffage was fent by one of them at that time of night; for they are of-tener fent with dilagreeable meffages, than with fuch as I have juft now related. The Emprefs faid that flie believed Backunin to be a veiy great rogue, and that flie thought he fliould fufler fome exemplary punifliment for the feveral faults he had been 4 E guilty guilty of. The prince faid that undoubtedly he was a very bad man, and deferved to be very feverely punifhed; and added, that her Majefly was the befl judge of that, but begged to inform her that he Backunin had a wife and many children who had been guilty of no fault, and therefore recommended them to her Majefly's care. What became of him, I know not, but fo long, as I was in Mofcow he was kept in clofe confinement : But his wife was affured that no harm fliould happen to her and her children. CHAP. XXXVIL Of the Author's travels from Mofcow, by St Petersburg!? to Riga, and what paffed there* NO doubt I could have written many more anecdotes during my flay in Mofcow, but my book is now fwelled to a greater fize than at I firft intended, and therefore I muft drop them. I fliall take no no dee of the different flages on the road from Mofcow to St Peterfburgh as that has already been done in the firfl volume of this work. As Mr TatifhofPs village however was diftant three miles from the road, his relations defired I would carry a fmall parcel, which they would not chufe to fend by a fervant. fervant. This I could not refufe, though it is not free of danger to befriend ftate prifoners, but I told them that I would fend it by a fervant from the village near his houfe; as I could not go there myfelf. I did fo ; and fet out from Mofcow on the 1 2th of June 1740, and arrived in Kline eighty verfts diftant, on the I 3th. I immediately fent off from thence an exprefs with the parcel, and a letter begging to be excufed that I did not pay my refpecls to him, becaufe I was hurried, he fent his coach for me, and intreat-cd that I would pay him a vifit which he wrote would probably be the laft, as it truly was : I therefore went, though much afraid. When I arrived, he faid, as he had promifed, that he would not detain me one hour. I tupped with him, but was very uneafy during that time, which I do not believe exceeded an hour, as he railed a-gainft the Emprefs and miniftry the whole time. His patience was quite exliaufted, and his hopes of enlargement were at an end. He made me a prefent, and defired that I would anfwer any letter he might Write me concerning his health, I promifed to give him at all times my belt advice: But begged that he would write me nothing but what concerned his health. At this time, I told him, that if he defigned to have his hiftory of Ruflia, which he had been writing many years ago, published, I would take take it along with me, and fend it directly by fome fafe hand to the Royal Society in London, who I doubted not would be at the expence of getting it tranflated and pub-lilhed in Englifli : But he replied that fome-thing was Hill to correct, and that he had offered it to the Royal Society for a certain fum, but that they had not anfwered his expectation, and therefore he was determined to let it take its chance. Thus I left my old patient, Privy Counfellor Tatifhoff, for the laft time, nor did 1 ever hear more from him, but was told that he died, about half a year after this, of fome fhort illnefs, worn out with care, fliagreen, anger and age. I arrived in St Peterfburgh on the twenty fecond of June, and was entreated to ftay there a few days to give advice about Commodore Paton, who laboured under the excruciating pains of a cancer in his tongue, which had deftroyed near one half of it, and was fpreading over the fauces, fie died about two months after 1 left St Peterfburgh. Having finilhed my affairs there, I left that city for the laft time, and went with my whole family on the ffe" cond of July to Narva, one hundred and thirty four verfts diilant from St Peterfburgh; from Narva to Eurioff or Derpt one hundred and feventy two verfts, from Derpt to Riga two hundred and twenty feven, in all from Peterfburgh to Riga five hundred and thirty thirty three verfts; and this I accomplished with a young family, in feven days. Livonia is very different from any part of Ruflia ; the people have more liberty, but they pretend to more than their due, even fb much as to diftrefs the traveller. At a village in Eftonia I arrived in the evening, the peaiants were fo brutal that they neither would fell nor give me grafs for my horfes, though I had travelled a long way, and was neceflitated to let them have a few hours reft, and feed them. I threatned to take cut grafs which Was there in great plenty, and they laid, that if I did fo that they would complain to their Landts Raadt, who is much the lame as a juflice of peace with us. Upon enquiry I was informed that the Landts Raadt lived at a great diftance, fo that I could make no complaint of them, nor could I break their barbarous obftinacy by any civility I could fliew them. I offered them a reaibnable price, telling them at the fame time, that I was certain no law could oblige me, to let my horfes ftarve in the mid ft of plenty : At laft, fair means proving ineffectual, I ordered the foldiers to take as much as was needful : But forbade them to imbezzle any. In the mean time, the boors threatned in language not very fupportable, but I contented myfelf by letting them know that if they offered any violence either to my fervants or foldiers, I would order them to fire upon upon thetn without any regard to the confe-quence, feeing I had in vain fought things in the fair and eafy way. This had the defired effect. They indeed pretended to fend off to their Landts Raadt; but I never heard more of it. Before we fet out, however, they were glad to beg the money I had formerly offered them, the receipt of which feemed very agreeable to them. They faid, as an excufe for their obflinacy, that they were afraid that we would not have paid them, as many gentlemen belonging to the army had formerly treated them in that way. At Derpt one of the axletrees of my waggons was in bad order, I therefore lent for a tradcfman to make a new one, which he did, but exacted, as I had not bargained with him before hand, a mod exorbitant price, and my lanclord advifed me to pay it ; becaufe, he faid, that the judge of the city would oblige me before I could go from it. As I was a ft ranger, and not acquainted with the Count I paid him ; being afraid that complaints about fuch trifles might have had a very bad effect: ; But when I became acquainted with Count Lacy, 1 informed him of both thefe pieces of impofition. As foon as I arrived in Riga, I waited on the Field-marfhal Count Lacy, and prefented my inftruclions, and an order from the college of war to him, who received me very obligingly, and faid that he would give orders ders in die morning, that the gentlemen of the army, garrifon, and hofpkals Ihould receive me according to the regulations, whicli was done, and I entered immediately upon bufinels. The army immediately under the count's orders were about one hundred thoufand men, with a noble train of artillery, con lifting of one hundred pieces of battering bra ft cannon, befides many mortars, and other pieces belonging to them. The garrifon con lifted of fix regiments, about nine thoufand men ; befides thefe, there was a body of engineers. By the army every regiment had a field hofpital; but at Riga there was built a general hofpital for receiving the fick and wounded who had dangerous fymptoms, from the whole army; Every regiment in the garrifon had its own proper hofpital, as had the artillery and engineers. By the army were two phyficians and a furgeon-ge-neral; every regiment had a furgeon, a mate, and for every company two firulnicks ; thefe are men who can let blood, and do many little chirurgical operations. By the garrifon there was a phyfician, and alfo a furgeon, with firulnicks for every regiment; befides thefe, I was ordered to infpedt their ho-fpitals as often as the affairs of the army ^vould permit. My inftruclions were to at* tend the fielcl-marlhal's perfon clofely when «e was fick, but, at other times, jointly with the the phyficians, I was ordered to vifit the general hofpital, and the other hofpitals belonging to the garrifon, twice every week at-leaft, and the hofpitals belonging to the field regiments at leaft once every fummer: That I was to receive regular reports from all the furgeons immediately under the count's command, and out of them form two general reports, viz. one for the army and artillery, and one for the garrifon, to be fent to the medicine chancery every month ; from which the Emprefs or council at war might know the ftate of the army every month; but if any peftilential difeafe was to make its appearance, couriers were to be fent exprcfs with reports. ' CHAP. XXXVIIL Concerning what pajfed in Riga. LIVONIA is bounded by Ingria and Novogorod Velike, on Eftlandia on the north, the gulf of Livonia and Courland on the weft, Semigallia on the fouth. It is a-bout one hundred and fixty five miles long from fouth to north, and one hundred and eighteen in breadth from eaft to weft. The fifty-fixth degree north latitude confines its fouth borders, and fifty-eight degrees thirty-four minutes its north. The weft fide is marked marked out by the forty-firft degree eaft longitude, and the eaft lide by the forty-fixth. Riga, the capital, is built on the fide of the river Dina in the forty-firft eaft longitude, and the fifty-fixth degree fifty minutes north latitude. This city is very well known, it is not large, but pretty well fortified to the land, though in my time it was rather weak on the river fide. The inhabitants are governed by their own magiftrates, called bur-go-niafters, and a number of counfellors ; their decifions, however, are appealable to the Court of St Peterfburgh. The keys of the city are lodged every night with the principal bur* go-matter, and the gates are watched by a ftrong body of garrifon-foldiers. In my time Count Lacy was not only field-marflial of the army, but alfo general-governor of the conquered provinces, and yet even his private tranfactions were fubjecl to the review and reverfal of the Emprels : For inftance, he had two fons and many daughters, all married : He was very rich both in land and money, and, it was faid, that he fent his money yearly to the bank of Amfter-dam. The Emprefs Elifabeth fome years by-paft had given him large poffeflions of lands in Livonia. As the count was very old, he thought proper, in my time, to fell thefe lands to Counfellor Campenhaufen, a Livonian gentleman. The bargain was com-pleated in Livonia, the money paid to the 4 F count, count, and all the writs finiihed according to the law of the country : When the Emprefs, however, was informed of it, fhe fent an order to the chancery of Livonia, letting them know, that, although flie had given the field-marfhal fuch lands for his long faithful fervices, yet fhe did not defign that either the count or any of his fucceffors fhould have it in their power to fell what fhe deligned fhould remain in the Lacy family, as a mark of the high imperial efteem conferred on him; and therefore commanded the count to return the money to Mr Campenhaufen, and receive and keep the lands as formerly. The Livonians profefs the Lutheran religion, nor do they permit any Roman church in the city of Riga. However, to teflify the great regard which they had for Count Lacy's perfon, they permitted two priefts to live in the city near the caflle, but prohibited their having any public worfhip, excepting in the count's palace. They exprelfed their gratitude more effectually ft ill by an annual prefent of two thoufand ducats and firewood, which they never gave to any before the count : But I fufpect that the Ruffians will probably learn the burghers to continue that annual gift to the count's fucceffors ; for 1 have known inflances of their not over-llrict-ly adhering to the capitulation agreed with the Livonians. The citizens pretend to liberty, and the Ruffians acknowledge it, but I imagine it is only the fhadow of liberty- The Livonian nobility and gentry meet in Riga once or twice annually, to regulate their country affairs. In thefe meetings, they, with the content of the Court of St Peterfburgh, lay on fmall taxes, and make by-laws refpecfing their police, but they can do nothing of themfelves. Their nobility and gentlemen are not obliged, as the Ruffians are, to ferve in either the army or fleet; neither can they ferve any other power without permilfion from Court. The peafants are all in a ftate of flavery, nor do they live fo well as the Ruffian boors. Some parts of Livonia are very rich, but the greateft part which I have feen is a poor fandy foil, efpecially about Riga. Riga carries on a very great trade with all the northern nations, though they have no fhips of their own. I was credibly informed, that about one thoufand fail of fhips vifit this port once every year. Seven verfts weft from Riga, where the Dina unites with the fea, ftands, on an 'Hand, one of the ftrongeft fortifications in Ruftia ; the walls are well mounted with cannon. This fort is called Dinamind, or the mouth of Dina. No fhip can pafs by this caftie ; and, I have been told, that a tttan of war cannot approach it, the water ^ot being deep enough. Soon. Soon after my arrival, I went and viftted not only all the hofpitals, but alfo all the different regiments which lay within fifteen or twenty verfls of the city. This great army was commanded by Count Lacy, and under him Lieut. General Lievcn, General Brown, and General Strechnoff, all of them gentlemen of great honour. It fignifies little to the reader, what kind, or how many patients we had in our hofpitals : It is enough to fay, that in the army we had from between live or fix hundred to two or three thoufand lick daily, and thefe were not many in proportion. In the gar-tfifon we had many more fick compared with the army ; for out of fix regiments we had feldom lefs than one hundred and eighty, and very often, efpecially in the fpring and autumn, we had feven or eight hundred, and fometimes a greater number. In the army I had no manner of reafon to be diflatis' fled ; but in the garrifon every thing was in confufion. In the army the phyficians and furgeon general, my predeceflor, had kepc the furgeons flriclly to their duty, according to the regulations ; but it was quite other-ways in the garrifon, of which I fliall take notice hereafter ; and this was occaiioned by appointing to the garrifon-hofpitals one of the mofl ignorant phyficians, only for being fon in-law to the late Archiator Fifher. this man was fupported by great men at court; court, none of my predeceffors gave themfelves any trouble about the garrifon, becaufe they could not do any thing effectually, without rifking a quarrel with Dr Graff, for this was his name, which the fear of his great protectors at court rendered dangerous. I was not long in Riga, when I received the following piece of hiflory from good authority, viz. One Dr Fonderholft, a German, was, a few years before my arrival, phyfician to the army : He was faid to have been a man of learning, but of no great forefight. He happened to receive an affront from one of the great lords at court, and who was in great favour with the Emprefs, which he, the doctor, not only would not put up with, but lampooned him feverely, and rendered him very ridiculous. The lord had the addrefs to get the doctor fent to Siberia, it is faid, unknown to the Emprefs, and in the following manner : One day, as the doctor was attending the field-marfhal, who was fick, a captain of the guards arrived with exprelfes from St Peterfburgh, and demanded immediate audience : He was introduced, and whifpered fomewhat in the field-marfhaPs ear: He defired the doctor to amufe himfelf in the great hall, till he had ended fome bufinefs with the captain ; when that was done, the doctor was again called upon, and, when he had given the field-marfhal his advice about fome ailment; ailment, which he at that time laboured under, was going to retire, the count defired him to come to dinner, becaufe he might need his farther ailiftance ; and at the fame time invited the captain of the guards to dine, telling him, that he was not able to fit at the table himfelf, but the vice-governor, Prince Dolgaruka, who was prefent, would bear him company ; this was agreed to. At dinner the captain told the vice-governor, that a relation of his, in his way to the army, was fuddenly taken ill of fome difeafe, and was obliged to remain in a houfe only diftant about three or four verfts from the city ; therefore defired the prince to appoint fome fufficient phyfician to vifit him, for which he would be handfomely confidered. The vice or deputy-governor pointed to Dr Fonderholft, faying, this gentleman is phyfician to the army, and one of the ableft phyficians in Riga, therefore he could not be better icrvcd ; and at the fame time politely defired the doctor to vifit the fuppofed gentleman. Dr Fenderholft agreed, and was giving directions to his fervants to get his coach ready, when the prince told him, that that was needlefs, as his coach was large e~ nough to cany them all to fuch an inconfi-derable diftance. After dinner, when they had arrived at the houfe where they pretended the fick gentleman was fuppofed to be, and hac) taken a few glaffes of wine, the doctor doctor defired to fee him ; but was anfwered, that he was a ftate prifoner by order of the cabinet; and therefore they advifed him to make no refiftance, but go into a travelling waggon ready at the door ; telling him. at the fame time, that if he offered the leaft refiftance,he would be bound faft with ropesj, and might be very cruelly treated on the way by the ferjeant and foldiers, who were appointed to convoy him to his place of defti-nation. Thus this man was convoyed to Siberia, and there (in fome pitiful town) was long immured, or kept in a hole in the wall, with only a fmall flit, through which he received his provifion. It feems he had fome money about him when he was arretted, but the captain took nothing from him except his fword. The foldiers on the way robbed him of his watch, but he concealed what little money he had from them. He was at no lofs to fee that his money could not maintain him long, and like ways, that he, who had been accuftomed to live in luxury, could not long fupport himfelf with fucli poor provifions as are allowed to fuch prifoners ; therefore he affected to be a fortune-teller, and gave inflructions to the foldiers who kept guard upon him, frankly giving them the half of what he got by his art. The foldiers were acquainted with many of the fuperftitious inhabitants, and told the doctor every thing concerning them before they they came to him, which he repeated to them, whereby his fame, as a wife man, fpread far, and he got fomething to fupport himfelf. Having no books, nor any company who could in the leaft help him to pafs his time in this miferable fituation, he got a few hens, and diverted himfelf with feeding them. He gave their eggs a black colour, and wrote upon with a pin, (den ungelucklick Doftor Fondcrholfi.) Ungelucklick fignifies unfortunate. Thefe eggs he fold to the inhabitants as charms, or fome fuch things* They knew not the meaning of the writing, but thought it made the eggs more valuable. After the doctor had been many months thus confined, one day the governor's lady fet up in this village, in her way from Ruflia to Siberia, and wanted eggs, amongft other things, for dinner. The hoftefs told her, that there was in this place a prifoner, a very wife man, who fold extraordinary eggs. She defired to fee them ; and as fhe underftood the German language, flie wasfurprized to fee wrote upon them the name of the phyfician, who, a few years before that, had recovered her from a very dangerous fever. She went to the hole, and fpoke with the doctor; then fhe applied to her hufband, and got his fituation made much eafier; and as flie was a great favourite with the Emprefs, flie wrote to her Majefty, and re-prefented his undeferved misfortune fo pathetically, thetically, that the governor received orders to liberate him, and fend him on her expence to Mofcow, where he received fome of the money he had been robbed of, but recovered only a few of the valuable jewels which were embezzled when he was at firft confined. When I went firft to Mofcow, Dr Fon-derhollt was arrived there, and all the people of that city were full of his ftory. Tho* he was not employed in the imperial fervice, he lived very well by his practice, and the inhabitants fhewed great kindnefs to him. After lie was fent from Riga, the officers went to his houfe to feize what value and papers they could find. His fervants readily let them in ; but the doctor had a dog who bit many of them ; nor would this faithful animal permit any to enter that room till he was (hot. It was faid that they got in gold and jewels in that room which the dog defended, to the value of twenty thoufand rubles. It was given out, that the doctor's crime was, his having treacheroufly kept up cor* refpondence with fome of the neighbouring princes: However, few people believed this.^ becaufe it never was made evidently appear; and in Ruifia it is well known, that, when people are unfortunate, many crimes are laid to their charge, of which they are quite innocent. 4 G The The above flory, which is very true, gave me lb much uneafinefs, that, I cannot deny, it frequently, not only through the clay appeared to me moff horrible, but alfo ditturbed my deep : Nor lhall I ever forget it fo long as 1 live. CHAP. XXXIX. Concerning the Citizens of Riga, Courland, and •what happened there in the Tear 1750. THough Riga and the inhabitants are very well known to merchants and fea-faring people, yet many of my readers may be delirous to be informed about them. The inhabitants of Riga are a very frank, kind people, and very polite to lirangers. They live by trade, and have, by their policy, kept hitherto up a fhew of liberty. I faid, that the city was governed by four magi 11 rates ; but they have alfo a great number of councilors, and a fyndick. Their magi-It rates have a falary annexed to their office, and they are not permitted to trade during their magiffracy; which, though elective, may continue as long as they live, providing they pleafe their council. They have great power in the city ; but if any think that they have not got juffice, they appeal to St Peterfburgh, and frequently get the magiffrates fentence reverfed. They have many cor- poral punifhmcnts, and inflict them with fe-verity upon thofe who are not of the council. I knew a very bafe inftance of their rigour. An inn-keeper's wife happened imprudently to reflect upon the injultice of the fyndick, which was reported to him. He fummoned her and her hulhand to appear before the court; and the fact being proved, they fentenced the woman to appear in the market-place, when thronged with many people, and there take up her own coats, and receive a number of lathes upon her pofteri-ors by the hands of the executioner, the woman was a very comely perfon, and a mother of fome children : Her hulhand offered to pay a conliderable fum of money, to prevent fo fhameful and painful a punifliment ; but all would not do ; flie was obliged to obey. If fhe had not fubmitted to this vile fentence, Ihe would per force have been punifhed in the fame manner, but with much more feverity. The people of Riga were obliged to be filent; but the gentlemen of the army, who valued them not, and foreigners, ridiculed them fo much for ex-pofing the fex in fo unbecoming and barbarous a manner, that, I dare fay, there has not been an example of the like nature fince. The Livonian women are very pretty, ra* ther inclinable to be fit, but fine agreeable features. Their unmarried women are kept in very good order 5 but it is faid, that, after ter marriage, they do not pay great regard to chaftity, againft which they offend, not by Health, but pretty openly. Their ladies of quality are very vain ; but, at the fame time polite to thofe who pay them great refpect. Merchants wives, and other idle women, are to be feen at the doors of their houfes, almoft through the whole day, for no other reafon than to fee the gentlemen pafs by, and receive their compliments. To fuch a length is this foolifh cuftom come, that a man fcarcely can be covered one moment, and therefore walk with their hats under their arms, like fo many fet its maitres. At my firft arrival I took no notice of thefe idle women ; at which they were affronted, and called me an ungebeftiger Schotlander^ or an ill-bred Scotchman. Their quality confills of counts, barons, and gentlemen, which, altogether, they term nobles. In Riga there are three fuperb magnificent churches of the reformed Lutheran religion, and one chapel of the Puritan, fupported chiefly by the Britifh merchants. I was once prefent where it was obferved to the Puritan pallor, that the Britifh feldom went to the church. The paft or acknowledged the fact ; but faid, that, notwithstanding thereof, the Britifh were very eflential pillars to it; becaufe, if it were not for them, the reft of thofe who profefs their religion were not able either to uphold the church, or fupport the paftor. Courland Courland is fuch a country as Livonia, but there are more woods in it; and I think the foil is better, and not fo very fandy. It is fituated fouth-weft from Livonia, and is but a fmall dukedom, fubjecl: to the crown of Poland, though the Ruffians, in my time, kept them greatly under ; yet the Courlan-ders are much more free than the Livonians, and are ruled by their own laws. The people are very like the Livonians, only I imagine the peafants are not fuch Haves ; yet this I cannot certainly fay, becaufe, though I was twice in that country, mv time was very fhort; but I am certain, that the gentry are much more at liberty than the Livonians; for they can go where, and do what they pleafe ; and are in their own country fubjecl: to their own laws. However, they have been of late much bridled by feventeen thoufand Ruflian troops, who lay in Courland during the time I was in Riga. The Courlanders, when their Duke was an exile, were governed by four great officers of ftate, in the fame manner as if the Duke had been with them : Under them the country is governed by the gentry, many of whom are appointed judges, called Landts Raadts, or country counfellors. I imagine they have greater powers than our jultices of peace ; for I have been informed, that three Polifh gentlemen can infiicT: capital punifhments upon their boors. The e- ftablifliecl ftablifhed religion is Roman Catholic ; hyt they are mild enough in Courland to thofe of the reformed. I fufpect, however, that this is much owing to the Ruifian troops being there, for many of their officers are of the reformed religion, who would not have borne any reftraint upon their religion. Courland and Livonia are very plentiful countries ; they have not only enough for themfelves, but are able to export great quantities of all forts of grain. The capital of Courland is but a very fmall city, without any fortification : The walls are all in ruins, fo that you may ride over them. I fufpect that they are not permitted to rebuild them ; but Riga is one of the belt fortified cities I e-ver faw. The citizens of Riga had a very high ftrong wall between the city and citadel, fo that it would appear the citadel was under the authority of the city, in the time of the Swedifh government, becaufe the citadel lay expofed to the cannon of the city placed upon that high wall, whicli effectually covered the city from any attempt of the garrifon in the citadel : But things are changed ; the high wall is thrown down, and the city lies expofed to the cannon of the citadel, which is feparated from the city by a deep broad foffa, and high walls, well ftored with cannon. The late Earl of Hyndford returned to Britain through Riga, where he was much honoured by the good old field marfhal. Thefe two two great men Teemed to vie with one another which of them fliould behave with the greateft politenefs. I had been honoured with a letter from the Earl, acquainting me, that he expected to be in Riga on fuch a day, and defiring that I would not be ab-fent. I obtained leave from [the Held mar-fhal to go about twenty miles out of the city to meet the Earl. We arrived at Riga late, but the count had ordered one gate to be left open, that the Earl might meet with no flop, a piece of politenefs that was never ftiown to any before. When the Earl arrived, he fent his fecretary with compliments to the count; the count returned that ceremony by one of his general adjutants. Next day the Earl paid a vifit to the count. The old gentleman took that fo well, that he went down flairs* and law the Earl placed in his coach ; nor would he be hindered. Not fatisfie4 with this, he had ordered his own coach to be got in readinefs, he went into it, and ordered to drive immediately behind the Earfs coach to the houfe where he lodged, unknown to the Earl, who was not a little fur-prized with the novelty of this piece of politenefs. When the count was going to return, the Earl propofed to convoy him to his caftie ; but this the count would not permit, telling the Earl, that if he did fo, they Would be obliged to drive after one another through the ftreets of Riga the whole day ; for, for, fuel he, I am determined to pay the laft vifit, having failed, by your Lordlhip's a-lertnefs, to pay the firft, which good manners obliged me to have done. Count Lacy had a very fin cere friendlhip for the late Earl of Hyndford, which he feetned to take pleafure in acknowledging in a very lingular and oftentatious manner, upon eveiy occafion which offered ; and which I was affured lie never had clone to any before, nor in my time of ferving in that army. Next day the Earl croffed the river Dvvina in a great florm of wind and rain, when the river was running thick with ice, in company with the late Mr Freir furgeon to the Ruffian guards, who was returning to his native country, and my late brother, who was killed at the Moro Caftie, and his fecretary. When they were in the middle of the river, they ftruck againft a board of ice, by which means a plank was ftarted from the bow, whicli, though a new boat, let in much water. No doubt, they were all in danger ; yet none could obferve that the Earl was in the leaft alarmed. The boat-men had fome fifh in the fore end, which were walhcd in with the water. The fecretary feeing fifh, roared out, that they would be all loft, becaufe, 0i« he, there arc numbers of fifh already in the boat. The country people were carrying over fome grains to feed their cattle, which was thrown into the river. Mr Freir had m the the boat a trunk, in which he kept his moft valuable papers. He imagined that they had thrown out his trunk, and expreffed, upon that occafion, the utmoft indignation and furprife, till he was affured that his trunk was ftill fafe; however, though with difficulty, they got all fafe to the other fide* C H A P. XL. Concerning the Garrifon at Riga, Sec. ISAID before that I had no difficulty,, though very much fatigue with the af-my, but it was quite otherwile with the garrifon. In the Spring fea fon the fcurvy raged with the greateft violence, and fweep-ed away many men ; you may read my defcription of it in Dr Lind on the fcurvy page 338. When I faw what difmal ha-vock this difeafe would make in the garrifon, I regreted the want of gardens, where frefh herbs, and excellent vegetables might have been riurfed up for the ufe of the fick. One of the furgeons was honeft enough to tell me, after taking my promife not to difcover my author, that the great Father of RufTia, Peter, had not forgotten the garrifon hofpitals of Riga, and fliowed me that one acre of land was by that great Emperor allotted to each hofpital, but added that the phyfician 4 H would would not enter into any difpute with the fuperior officers of the regiments. Thefe gardens were at that time drelfed up for the ufe of the colonels, lieutenant-colonels, and majors, and the hofpitals for which they were defigned had not the fmalleft ufe of them. I thanked the furgeon for his information, and affured him that 1 was determined, in fpite of any opposition I could meet with, to get the gardens reftored to the fick. Accordingly I went directly to the garrifon chancery, and demanded to fee the books in which the garriiou hofpitals were inftituted. This the fecretary could not deny ; there I found out that to each hofpital was allotted an acre of ground for th ufe of the lick, and was ordained to be ■ drefled by the foldiers belonging to the garrifon : When 1 was in pofleifion of fo good authority, 1 represented the iniferable fituation of the hofpital to the Ficld-marfhal. He returned me thanks for my care, and defired me to give into his chancery a petition re-preienting the ftate of the hofpitals, and demanding the gardens to be reftored, purely for the ufe of the fick. In doing this I loft no time ; accordingly the gardens were inftantly reftored, and orders iffhed that the commiffaries fhouid be anfwerable for any the leaft embezzlement. Any one may lee that I mull meet with no Friendfliip from the principal officers who had furreptitioufly feized feized upon thefe gardens ; And Dr Graff was affronted tlxat 1 had rugfc acquainted him before I proceeded fo far. 1 valued very little any thing they could acl againft me, and threatned to report the affair to the medicine chancery, which quieted them. Now I began in earnell to project my exit out of Rullia. My wife had born four fons, three of whom were living. I could not bear the thoughts of letting my children have a chance of lofing their liberty, which undoubtedly they would run the rifqne of, if 1 had happened to die before they attained the ufe of their reafon, and had re-folution to infill upon their right. I repre-fented their cafe and the views I had to their mother, and let her fee the neceffity there was for her going to Scotland with her children, affuring her that 1 would return to it next year. She very frankly agreed to my plan, I then went to my good commander the Fiekfmarfhal, and told h in that it was necelfary for my wife and children m be fent to the care of my relations in Scotland, and therefore I begged that he would be-fi iend me, without much trouble, to grant them proper paffports, telling him diat I had at that time one of the bell opportunities of fending them wfh Captain Scot for Dundee. He molt readily granted the paffp rts, and I lofl no time in tending than awa\ My elded: fon was feven years old, my fecond was was one year and five months, my youngefl (named Piercy after the Field-marfhal who flood godfather for him) was only two months. Probably this will be thought a barbarous action by fome, to fend a young woman with three infants into a country, where Ihe was an abfolute flranger: But I am pretty certain that when every thing is confidered, phe judicious part of mankind will be of opinion that I acted very right, as by this action, I preferved all our liberties. I rifqued very great hard-fhips to preferve them. I rifqued every thing valuable to myfelf for their fafeties : I lent them to the care of rny father, and to a country where they could be educated in principles, which I always had judged befl; and I provided for the liberty of thofe not then born. It is evident that I placed myfelf in the gap, and counted nothing too. dear to deliver them from bondage. I cannot exprefs the anxiety I was in at parting, and indeed, which continued till 1 faw them ; for I imagine I was in no fmall jeopardy as the fequel will prove. I was obliged to bear the impertinent taunts and reproaches of feveral people, ignorant of the, value I put on liberty, at fending them a-way ; however the great inquietudes and commotions in my mind got fome relief in about three months thereafter, when I received a letter from my wife acquainting ine that TRAVEL S. 6r3 that they were all fafely arrived in Scotland, and in good health. My fmall family being now fafely arrived in Scotland. 1 confidered that my petitions, from Aftrachan had never been fiouourecj with any anfwer ; therefore determined to petition for my difcharge from the fervice ; or if that could not conveniently be agreed to, I demanded one year to go for Scotland, where my family then was, in order to put my affairs in a regular way, that my wife and infants might not be liable to liiffer any hardship by my ah fence : Such a petition I fent off (bon after I was affured that they were arrived in Scotland, that they in the chancery might have, according to the regulations, one half year to provide them-lelves with another in my place. In the month of Augufl, a moft dangerous fire broke out in a brewer's houfe built to the fide of a magazine of hemp, which was contiguous to the greateft powder magazine in Riga. Upon this occafion,* the citizens were in very great confufion, the gates of the city were all (hut, and none was permitted either to go in or out. The good old Field-marfhal had been complaining, but upon this occafion, he went out, and flood upon the magazine of powder dtiring the whole time, though a cold night,- and gave out his orders for cxtin-guifhing the fire. I attempted to get to htm, but but could not, the multitude, hurry, and confufion was fo great. The danger was very dreadful, but by the care of our field-marfhal it was at laft cxtinguifhed. The generals flocked ali about him, promifed to do every thing to get it extinguifhecl, if he would retire to the caftie, but he would not, faying, that if Riga the metropolis was blown up, he would not furvive it. By the vigorous application of the foldiers, under the eye of their field-marflial, it was at laft extinguifhed, with the lofs only of one houle, although every one was expecting, e~ very moment, that they would be blown up in the air : But it was the caufe of a fever to the good old count, which, though he recovered it, was the caufe of a cachexy, which at laft fent him to his grave. Next morning he infilled upon being blooded contrary to the opinion of all die phyficians, and from this time, he continued in a very dangerous way, till the beginning of December, when he recovered fome ftrengtb. In the time of his ilineis, exprefles were fent to St Peterfburgh frequently with reports of his ftate. of health ; at laft, it was the opinion of all the medical people, that he ought not to be troubled with any hufinefs ; we communicated our opinion to him, and begged that we might be permitted to mention it, in our next report to the cabinet, to which he confented. Accordingly Prince Dolgaruka Dolgaruka our vice or deputy governor was ordered to take care of the affairs of the province, and four generals were commanded to take care of the army. At laft, he was fo far recovered, that on new year's day he went into a great hall where many hundreds of officers uied to go to do bufinefs, pay their refpects to the good old count, or fee their friends. When the count appeared drefled in a brocade fuit of cloaths with his fword by his fide, and in all his different orders, the gentlemen fhoutcd. for joy to fee once more the perfon who had led them, every where victorious, againft their enemies. The count was extremely well pleafed with this mark of their love to him, and flood fpeaking to them fo long that I obferved him fhaking. I went to him, and put him in mind of his weaknefs. He turned to the gentlemen and told them that his own feeblenefs, and the doctor's commands, as he thought proper to ex prefs himfelf, would not permit him to flay longer there, made a bow, and retired for the laft time from the gentlemen of the army, who truly adored him. That day arrived in Riga, in his way to St Peterfburgh, an ambaffador from the court of Vienna, who dined with the lielcfmarllial. When he arrived in St Peterfburgh he reported that the count was much recovered, and had, he hoped, e-fcaped all danger: But by the time he reached ed St Peterfburgh the cafe was quite other^ ways ; for that very night, after the am ballad n- had left him, he relapfed ; nor dui he ever recover it. When the Emprefs received fucli agreeable news, (he lent orders to the war-office, that they Ihould require the count to take the command of the army, and congratulate him on his recovery. By the time thefe orders arrived in Riga the count was worfe by much, and took it ill of the council of war to require him, when in fo feeble a ftate, to take the command; He ordered the fecretary to return for anfwer, that he had taken the command ; nor Ihould he ever part with it again till death parted them : That altho* he was no longer able to ride on horfeback, he was determined to 90 where-evcr it fhould be found neceffary, carried in a litter. At this time it was ltrongly reported, tfiaC, early in the fpring, we Ihould be ordered to march againft the Prufiians : But it is well known, that the differences were amicably made up between the courts of St Peterfburgh and Berlin at that time. I vva-prefent when the count gave thefe orders to his fecretary ; but fcarce had he done, when the poll-matter brought a great bag of letters ; I was informed that the number exceeded one hundred. Upon feeing fuch a number, we, who were not interefted, re" tired. tired, and there remained with the count only one or two of his fons in-law to read the contents. Alter a fhort time I was delired to vifit the count, and was told that the bufi-nefs was ended: I did fo, and found him much fatigued with reading letters of congratulation on his recovery ; the caufe of which happened in the following manner: I was informed by undoubted authority, that when the Emprels got notice of the count's recovery, flie expreifed as great fatisfacYiou as if he had been her father ; and with great joy ordered the above-mentioned orders to be fent: That General Apraxin, who expected to get a marfhal's flaff by die army, and fome of his friends, accofled the Emprefs, telling, her, that the field-marfhal was worn out with age, and, at his time of life, was unable to command fo great an army as was in Livonia. They therefore counfelled her to appoint Count Lacy governor-general of the conquered provinces only, and confli-tute another field-marfhal by the army. Whether the Emprefs faw through their defign, or whether ihe acted according to the dictates of her own reafon, I fliall not determine; but her gracious anfwer was, That, from all accounts which fhe had ever1 got, Count Lacy had at all times behaved himfelf ftrictly as a man of the moft unblemifh-ed honour : That fhe defied any prefent to produce one fingle inflance to the contrary - 41 That That no complaint had ever been made a-gainlt him, either from the army or provinces ; but that fhe was well affured that he was revered as their father: That as he had ferved her father, his fucceffors, and herfelf, without blemifh, flie was determined to maintain him in all his places of high truft and honour as long as he lived : And that if any durft attempt after that time, to diffuade ber from that resolution, fhe was determined to make fuch feel the utmoft weight of her refenttnent. Thefe laft words, it is faid, flie expreifed with fuch an air, as made them all tremble. They flunk off; and all the courtiers, and others, who heard of it, wrote letters of congratulation, and afked and returned thanks for favours. This great good man continued daily to lofe his ftrength till the ioth of April 1751, when he died, uni-verfally lamented by all who had the honour of his acquaintance. His two fons arrived fome months before his death, and attended him carefully till his laft. The eldeft remained at, Riga when I left that city, but the youngeft, who is at prefent field-marfhal to the Emperor of Germany, returned foon after his father's death to Vienna. Count Lacy left Ireland wrhen 1 3 years of age, an enfign in King James VII.'s army, and retired to France, where he ferved fome years. He ferved fix years in the Emperor of Germany's army, and entered into the Ruffian fervice as major major in the guards, fometime before the battle of Narva ; and I was informed that it was owing to his deftroying the roads in the rear of the Ruffian fugitives, which prevented the Swedes from purfuing, and making a more terrible carnage : From which time he ferved ever victorious, and greatly in favour of all the crowned heads, and much refpe&ed by ali good men till his death. It is needlefs here to trouble the reader with the many altercations which happened betwixt the malicious Dr Graff and me. It is enough to obferve, that he had accufed me of impoffibilities, and falfely; which I had well attefted by the late field-marfhal, and other refpectable people in the army ; and what related to the medical affairs, I had attefled by the phyfician of the army, and all the garrifon furgeons. In fhort, I propofed to the moft imperious and unjuft Hollander, Kaw Boerhaave, to have our affairs tried by a court-martial, when I was certain, fupported only by the regulations of Peter the Great, I fhould have little trouble in rendering him incapable to ferve iu Ruflia, or any other well regulated nation. And what reflected his practice of medicine, I doubted not would be readily condemned by all the univerfities in Europe, to whom I was ready to appeal. The fear of this hindered him from caufing the furgeons keep regular books books in the hofpitals ; but I had abundance of teltimonials of his mal-praclice, and of his either lettting the foldiers be ftarved, or led with fmall portions of rotten fifh, fome of which I keep to this clay, as a curiolity. I have reafon to believe, that my frequent follicitations concerning thefe affairs haften-cd the happy time of receiving my difcharge from the iervice. On the 3d of April the field-marfhal caufed read my difcharge, which indeed makes very honourable mention of my long fervices ; then he can led read a memorial from the medicine chancery to him, which I was not expecting, requiring, that before my difcharge mould be given to me, I fhould be obliged to fign a paper, binding myfelf to return to the fervice in the fpace of one year, acquainting him that my place in the army could not be kept vacant during fo long time. As I had lately obtained my degrees as phyfician, it was required that I fhould, before I left the country, acquaint the archiator or chancery in what poll or place I was willing to ferve. The good field-marfhal then afked me, If I was refolved to go by land ? 1 anfwered, that I intended to wait till the fhipping arrived, becaufe the journey by land would be very expensive. Then he returned my difcharge and the memorial to the fecretary, faying, that; as I intended to flay fo long, he expected I would affift him with my advice and 1 . attend- attendance as long as I remained, and that it was but reaibnable I Ihould receive my falary as formerly for fuch trouble. A few days before the field-marfhal died, a report was figned by Dr Shilling, phyfician to the army, and myfelf, declaring, that it was our for-rowful opinion, that the field-marfhal could not put off many days longer; that all hopes of his recovery were at an end. Upon receipt of this, all written affairs were fealed up, and a report fent to the Emprefs by the vice-governor and generals of the army. On the 1 oth, prefently after the field-mar-(hal's death, as I was going to the caftie, I met the fecretary, who delivered to me my difcharge, without requiring any conditions, at which I was, no doubt, extremely glad : But when the field-marfhaPs papers were un-'fealcd, the memorial, which I took notice of formerly, was found amongft them. Prince Dolgaruka,the vice-governor and my patient, fent for me, and required that I fhould fign a paper, obliging myfelf to return in the fpace of one year. I anfwered, that, if that had been defired before I had received my difcharge, I would have complied, and would alfo have kept my word with as much truth as I had ferved long fifteen years ; but faid, that,as I had now got my difcharge,! thought it unreafonable in the chancery to afk a free man to oblige himfelf to be bound to any country. The prince told me, that he could not not anfwer to let me go till he heard from the chancery, or till I gave him fuch a writing. Thus we parted, ever in great friendship. All the citizens of Riga mourned for the lofs of the late field-marfhal, and tolled their bells eight days. The army were not behind them in expreffmg their grief; and I lamented his death with as much fince-rity as is poflible for a human breaft. I had great reafon, for I had loft a moft fin cere and potent friend, one who would and could have effectually protected me againft ali the force of the medicine chancery, who very foon began to let me fee that they intended to jump over the facred walls of honour, juftice, and truth, and, contrary to all laws human and divine, rob me of my falary, and even my liberty, notwithstanding the difcharge they had given me, making t he moft honourable mention of my long fervices ! At the time when my difcharge was firft received, the field-marfhal faid, that as I had been long abfent from Britain, he thought a declaration from him concerning my fervices in Ruflia, with his fubfcription and feal, might be of fervice to me. I could do no lefs than return him thanks for his kindnefs, and told him, that I thought I would be much honoured by it. fie faid, that if I wanted to ferve any where in Europe, he doubt- ed not that it would be a good introduction; but was afraid it would not have much weight in Great Britain, where he lamented that every poll or place was bought and Ibid, a very fmall value being fet upon qualifications. Accordingly he ordered his fecretary to make out a teftimonial in the French language, which I retain, and value it very much, but have never made ufe of it. CHAP. XLI. Concerning my Tranfaiiiom and Efcape, after I had got my Difcharge. HAVING now got my difcharge, I wrote a letter to Dr Kaw Boerhaave, begging tnat he would caufe payment be made to me, agreeable to Peter the Great's regulations, of my falary due by the medicine chancery, acquainting him at the fame time, that I had fent a petition to the medicine chancery for that purpofe. I waited one month in vain for an anfwer, and then wrote another letter to Dr Condoidy, vice-prefident at that time in the chancery, in which the nature of the fubjecl: obliged me to reflect upon the little notice taken of my petition and letter fent to the archiator ; this I did with all decency : Bu the chancery, no doubt well knowing that they might have been obliged to pay me out out of their own pockets, at this time feht one, the moft unprecedented order to Prince Dolgaruka that ever was heard of, except pof-fibly, from a board of in qui fi tion. It commanded the prince not to permit me to go from Riga till he received further orders : This order was received the latter end of May. A fecond order, ftill more furprifing, was received from faid chancery in the latter end of June. It commanded the Prince to fend me from Riga to St Peterfburgh on my own charges, and to take from under my hand an obligation, that I fliould fet out from Riga upon a certain day ; that I fliould go by a certain road ; and laftly, that I ihould be in St Peterfburgh, and appear in the chancery, againff fuch a day as I fliould fix. 1 needed no fpeciacles to fee into the defign of fuch an inhumane and unprecedented order, and I hinted no lefs to the Prince, who could not deny that it looked as if they defigneel to feize me by the road, and he fincerely condoled with me. I obferved to the prince, that he was ordered to let me go from Riga, but not until I had figned fuch an obligation as the chancery demanded : He alien ted to the truth of this ; then I put him in remembrance of the care I had taken of himfelf and family, and only defired a few days, till I had laid my diftrefs before the Britifh minifter, who, I imagined, could not fail to give me his protection, before TRAVELS. fore he the Prince made a report to the chancery, telling him, that I alfo would petition the chancery for juflice, and fend it with his report. To all this he agreed. I then fent off a letter to our minifler Mr Guy Dickens, and related all my grievances, and only defired that he would make it known to the Emprefs, or get the Grand Chancellor to bring me to St Peterfburgh in fafety, where, I doubted not, that I fliould make rny enemies much afhamed of their actions, and very probably punifhed. I obferved to the minifler, that, as a Britifh fubjecl, I thought I had a right to demand his protection, to fee that juflice was done me, which if he did, I had no reafon to be in the leaff afraid of any thing they could do. At the fame time, f \vrotc to an acquaintance in St Peterfburgh, and defired him to fpeak with the Britifh minifler, and immediately feud me notice, what he intended to do. By the courfe of the poll, I received an anfwer from rny friend, telling me that he had fpoken with the minifler, who faid, that if 1 would come to St Peterfburgh, he then would protect me, but could not at that diftance ! and that he never defigned to write me one fcrap. I could fcarcely believe that a minifler from Britain would, or indeed durft neglect the fecurity of one of their mailer's fubjects ; but in this I Was miftaken. I could not foon find out 4 K the 626 VOYAGES and the caufe of Mr Guy Dickens' indifference, efpecially as I waited on him when he palled through Riga, and offered him any fervices which were in my power : He alio in his turn promifed to do me any kindnefs he could ; but, upon reflection, I fuppofe that the fright he was put into at the court of Sweden, a few years before this period, deterred him from protecting me ; but it is evident to every perfon, that the cafes were extremely different; for in Sweden it was faid, that he received under his protection a perfon who had been plotting againft the government, and my affair was private, relating only to my juft demands. Thank heaven, I was fo far from being one of fuch character, that at this clay, ifl was informed of any harm to come upon Rullia, I would lofe no time in contributing all in my power for its fafety; and I am not afhamed to declare, that I honour Ruflia next to my own native country. Finding no longer fafety in Riga, having fealed up ali my chefts, and fecured what money I had in that country, I privately left Riga, entered into a Britifh fhip, and fafely arrived, on the 15th day of Auguft in Dundee, to my great fatisfaclion. I, foon alter my arrival, went to my wife and children, who were agreeably furprifed, not having been informed that I intended to come home at that time. TRAVELS. 627 time. Soon after my arrival, I applied to the late Earl of Hyndford (having been informed, by letters received from Riga, that Prince Dolgaruka would not let my baggage be lent to Scotland) for relief, who moft readily required from me a fpccies fact;, and fent it off with a memorial from himfelf to the Grand Chancellor Beftucheff. Though the Earl was then at Carmichacl-honfe, and veiled with no public character, lb much regard was paid to his powerful rcprcientation at the court of St Peterfburgh, that a very threatening order was fent to Prince Dolgaruka to fend off my baggage in ali hafte, and with all care. The Prince was fo alarmed with the faid order, that Mr Wallace, the only Scoch mafter remaining at Riga, was ordered to receive them on board his fhip, though he fcarcely had room, who brought them fafely to Aber-brothock in the fame year in which I came home. From this it appears, that a proper minifter can not only do great good to his country in general, but to every individual belonging to it; fo that had the Earl been in St Peterfburgh when I left Riga, I would have had no great difficulty in getting all my arrears paid up ; whereas I loft not only all my juft demands, but much precious time, by the inaction or timid difpofltion of Mr Guy Dickens. My claim, however, being clear and well founded, I formed it into 6z% V O Y A G E S, fa. to a memorial, which I preferred to a great man at that court, and was favoured with this frivolous anfwer, " That none would then fpeak to the Emprefs (Elifabeth) about any private affairs 1" FINIS.