AKADEMIJA
UVODNIK EDITORIAL
TRAJNOSTNI MARKETING JE PRIHODNOST
Avtor Don Kihota iz Manče, Miguel de Cervantes, naj bi zapisal, da si pametni ljudje prihranijo tudi kaj za jutri in ne tvegajo, da bi nosili vsa svoja jajca v eni košari. S tem izrekom bi lahko slikovito strnili jedro teorije trajnostnega marketinga in preučevanja trajnostnega porabnika. Le moralno slep človek si namreč lahko še zatiska oči pred dejstvom posledic prekomerne izrabe naravnih virov in omejenih zmožnosti presnove človeških aktivnosti planeta Zemlje. Naj se bere še tako donki-hotsko, bi morala biti že danes, zagotovo pa bo v prihodnosti, vsaka poslovna odločitev, še posebej pa marketinške, optimizirana enakovredno, glede na tri kriterije: dobičkonosnost, naravno okolje in dobrobit človeka (ne nujno v tem zaporedju). Na svoj način nam to dokazujejo tudi prispevki, ki so zbrani v tej številki Akademije MM.
V	uvodnem prispevku skušamo prikazati pomembno razliko med potrošnikom in porabnikom ter njuno ideološko dimenzijo. Izpostavljamo pomen, predvsem pa popularnost preučevanja trajnostnega marketinga in trdimo, da marketing potrebuje trajnostno naravnanost in trajnostna naravnanost marketing.
V	prispevku, ki sledi, Klement Podnar in Urša Golob s pomočjo podatkov, zbranih s spletno asinhrono skupinsko razpravo, analizirata, kako posamezniki v kontekstu nakupnih navad
SUSTAINABLE MARKETING IS THE FUTURE
Miguel de Cervantes, the author of Don Quixote of La Mancha, allegedly wrote: "It is the part of wise man to keep himself today for tomorrow, and not venture all his eggs in one basket." This saying illustrates well the underlying premise of the sustainable marketing theory and research into sustainable consumers. Only a morally blind person can still close eyes to the consequences of excessive use of natural resources and Planet Earth's limited ability to sustain human activities. As quixotic as it may seem, all business decisions today, and certainly in the future, especially those made in marketing, should be equally optimised according to three criteria: profitability, the natural environment, and human wellbeing - not necessarily in this order. In a way, this is attested by the papers in this issue of Akademija MM.
The introductory paper aims to show the important difference between sustainable consumption and consumerism and their ideological dimensions. We underline the significance and especially the popularity of research into sustainable marketing, exploring why marketing needs sustainability and why sustainability needs marketing.
In the next paper, using data collected via an online asynchronous group discussion, Klement Podnar and Urša Golob explore how individu-
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in vsakdanjih porabniških praks doživljajo in osmišljajo vprašanje trajnostne porabe. Značilnost prispevka je, da presega klasični kognitivni pristop in trajnostno porabo razume tudi skozi vsakdanje prakse ljudi, s čimer dobimo boljši uvid v kompleksnost problematike in dostop do vrzeli, ki nastajajo med tem, kaj posamezniki mislijo, in tem, kakšne so njihove aktivnosti. To lepo pokažejo tudi ugotovitve prispevka, kjer je razvidno, da nakupne prakse posameznikov deloma izkazujejo trajnostno naravnanost porabnikov, a ni nujno, da jih kot take vidijo tudi sami porabniki. Avtorja ugotavljata, da se v določeni meri prakse in reprezentacije trajnosti tudi podpirajo oz. prekrivajo, kar pa še zdaleč ni pravilo, saj pojmovanje trajnostne porabe pri porabnikih ne vključuje nujno dejanskih praks, temveč pogosto precej abstraktne reprezentacije. Prispevek nas popelje skozi strukturo procesa posameznikovega načrtovanja nakupov, pogostost nakupovanja in obiskovanja različnih ponudnikov, prakse nakupovanja hrane in lastne pridelave, pomen lokalnega v nakupnem procesu, pomen okoljske naravnanosti in trajnostne porabe, vse do (ne) uporabe vrečk.
Urša Golob in Mateja Kos Koklič predstavljata segmentacijsko študijo trajnostno naravnanih porabnikov v Sloveniji, ki jo naslovita Pet odtenkov trajnosti med slovenskimi porabniki. Trajnost razumeta kot holistični koncept z okoljsko, družbeno in ekonomsko komponento. Kot taka je ta študija ena izmed redkih v literaturi, ki tako celostno zajema vse vidike trajnosti, ki je običajno zreducirana predvsem na okoljsko komponento. Na reprezentativnem vzorcu 462 slovenskih porabnikov in a priori izbranem sklopu psihografskih spremenljivk avtorici prepoznata pet segmentov porabnikov, ki se med seboj razlikujejo po trajno-stni naravnanosti, altruističnih vrednotah, osebni odgovornosti in zaznani lastni učinkovitosti. Avtorici segmente poimenujeta: odgovorneži, ozave-ščenci, ekonomsko usmerjeni, deklarativci in ne-zainteresirani. Rezultati raziskave jasno kažejo, da znotraj slovenske populacije pretežni del javnosti oziroma porabnikov izkazuje določeno raven skrbi in odgovornosti do trajnosti. Še en dokaz več, da morajo podjetja in marketinški strokovnjaki v njih razumeti, da je trajnostna naravnanost tudi v Sloveniji vse bolj nujna.
Mateja Kos Koklič, Tanja Dmitrovič in Maja Hrlec Gorše v svoji kvalitativni študiji z naslovom Trajnostna naravnanost v procesu odločanja za nakup oblačil: kvalitativna študija proučujejo traj-nostno naravnano potrošnjo oblačil na primeru slovenskih porabnikov. Skozi klasični okvir nakupnega procesa (oblačil) porabnika se osredo-točajo na zavest in razumevanje ter vlogo trajno-
als in the context of their shopping habits and everyday consumption practices experience and make sense of sustainable consumption. The paper goes beyond classical cognitive frameworks, trying to understand sustainable consumption through everyday social practices while uncovering the complexity of the problem and discovering the gaps that arise between what individuals think and how they act. This is well illustrated by the findings showing that buying practices of individuals partly demonstrate their sustainable attitude, but individuals do not necessarily see them as such. The authors conclude that the practices and representations of sustainability also support one another or overlap in some cases, as sustainability is not necessarily reflected in actual practices, but is often based on rather abstract representations. The paper leads us from the structure of the individuals' buying planning process, buying frequency and visits to various providers, food-buying practices and homegrown food production, the significance of local production in the buying process, the significance of environmental orientation and sustainable consumption, to the (non)usage of bags.
Urša Golob and Mateja Kos Koklič present a segmentation model of sustainably oriented consumers in Slovenia entitled Five Shades of Sustainability among Slovenian Consumers. Sustainability is understood as a holistic concept with an environmental, social, and economic component. As such, this study is one of the few studies in the literature that comprehensively cover all aspects of sustainability, rather than being limited to the environmental category. On a sample of 462 Slovenian respondents and an a priori selected set of psychographic variables, the authors identify five segments that differ in their sustainable orientation, altruistic values, personal responsibility, and perceived self-efficiency. The authors named these segments: the responsibles, the aware, the economically oriented, the declarants, and the uninterested. The results clearly show that a significant part of Slovenian population or consumers shows a certain level of care and responsibility to sustain-ability. This is yet another proof that companies, and marketing professionals therein, should be aware of the increasing necessity of sustainable orientation in Slovenia as well.
In their qualitative study entitled Sustainable Orientation in the Decision-Making Process for Apparel: A Qualitative Study, Mateja Kos Koklič, Tanja Dmitrovič, and Maja Hrlec Gorše study sustainable consumption of apparel in case of Slovenian consumers. Through the conventional framework of the user's buying process (of
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stne porabe v izbranem kontekstu. Ugotavljajo, da sogovorniki trajnostno potrošnjo povezujejo predvsem z vidikom trajanja uporabe izdelka in s preudarnostjo pri njegovem nakupu in odstranitvi. Pri nakupu oblačil udeleženci raziskave poudarjajo predvsem ugodje ob nošenju oblačila, trajnostna naravnost oblačila pa je, če sploh, v drugem planu. Pri tem se kaže še posebej nizka ozaveščenost mlajših udeležencev raziskave. Prav tako udeleženci ne prepoznavajo družbenega vpliva, ki bi jih usmerjal v trajnostno porabo. Obenem pa je pomembna ugotovitev avtoric raziskave tudi ta, da številni udeleženci nekaterih svojih ravnanj in vedenj ne prepoznajo kot trajnostno naravnanih, a jih z ustrezno refleksijo lahko označimo kot take. Zanimivo je tudi, da avtorice v ugotovitve uvrstijo koncept vesti kot tisti dejavnik, ki zlasti v zadnji fazi uporabniškega procesa odstranjevanja oblačil zaradi naveličanosti vpliva na to, da oblačilo ni zavrženo, temveč pogosto preide v ponovno uporabo drugemu uporabniku.
Tea Hegeduš se v svojem prispevku z naslovom Razumevanje družbene odgovornosti modne industrije pri slovenskih porabnikih osredotoča na problematiko hitre mode, ki jo skozi različne vidike lahko razumemo kot sinonim sodobne potrošne družbe in kulture »uporabi ter zavrzi«. Avtorica alternativo za trajnostni razvoj išče v družbeni odgovornosti oziroma v ideji trajnostne mode. V literaturi prepozna nekatere dejavnike, ki vplivajo na nakupno namero trajnostne mode. Avtorica ugotavlja, da respondenti trajnostne mode ne razumejo kot celostni princip mode z vestjo, pač pa omejeno, predvsem glede na vsebnost škodljivih kemikalij in pesticidov v modnih oblačilih ter kot prakso recikliranja. Prav tako opozarja, da zavestno nakupovanje trajnostne mode v Sloveniji še ni dovolj razširjeno, znanje o tem pa izrazito pomanjkljivo. Tudi kar zadeva vpliv dejavnikov na nakupno intenco po trajnostni modi, avtorica ne beleži bistvenih odstopanj od rezultatov primerljivih raziskav. V svoji empirični raziskavi avtorica potrjuje vpliv porabnikovega znanja o vprašanjih trajnostne mode, stališč, občutka odgovornosti in vrstniških skupin na preučevano nakupno intenco. Ob tem avtorica dodaja, da se razumevanje slovenskih respondentov bistveno ne razlikuje od rezultatov drugih raziskav, opravljenih v tujini. Avtorica opozarja, da bi bila potrebna večja osredotočenost na izobraževanju porabnikov o negativnih vplivih modne industrije na okolje in družbo ter pozitivnih vplivih in prednostih trajnostnih modnih konceptov v vsem svojem spektru.
Zadnji uvrščeni prispevek, avtoric Mile Zeče-vič in Mateje Kos Koklič, ima naslov Healthy food choices and consumer confusion - making
clothing) they focus on the awareness, understanding, and the role of sustainable consumption in a selected context. They find that consumers associate sustainable consumption with the duration of the product's use and with the prudence of its purchase and disposal. When making purchasing decisions regarding apparel, the participants emphasised the aspect of wearing comfort, while sustainability of clothing was not a top priority. The awareness among young participants is particularly low. Furthermore, the participants mostly do not perceive the social pressure to be more sustainable. The authors also find that many participants do not recognise their behaviour as sustainable, while it can be, in fact, perceived as such. Interestingly, the authors included the concept of consciousness as the factor that particularly in the final phase of consumption, i.e. disposal because of the sense of boredom with clothing, influences our decision to recycle rather than dispose of clothing.
In the paper entitled Understanding the Social Responsibility of the Fashion Industry among Slovenian Consumers, Tea Hegedus focuses on the fast fashion problem, which is in various respects understood as synonymous to the contemporary consumer society and the "use and throwaway" culture. The author looks for an alternative to sustainable development in social responsibility, the idea of sustainable fashion. In the literature she recognises some factors that influence consumers' purchase intention toward sustainable fashion. The author finds that the respondents do not consider sustainable fashion as a comprehensive principle of fashion with a conscience, but rather in a more narrow sense, i.e. as to the content of harmful chemicals and pesticides in fashion and as a recycling practice. She argues that in Slovenia conscious buying of sustainable fashion is not widespread enough, while the knowledge of it is quite deficient. As far as the influence of various factors on the purchase intent regarding sustainable fashion is concerned the author does not identify significant deviations from the results of comparable studies. In the empirical part of the study the author confirms the impact of consumers' knowledge regarding the issues of sustainable fashion, viewpoints, sense of responsibility, and peer groups on the studied purchase intention. Additionally, the understanding of Slovenian respondents does not significantly differ from the results of the studies conducted elsewhere. The author underlines the necessity of focusing more on educating consumers about the negative impacts of the fashion industry on the environment and society and the positive impacts and advantages of sustainable fashion concepts in all their aspects.
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healthy food choice an easy task. Osredotoča se na pregled literature s področja zdrave prehrane in porabniškega razumevanja zdravega. Posebej pomemben je razmislek o zmešnjavi, ki nastopa, ko se porabnik sooča z nakupovanjem hrane in pogosto nasprotujočimi informacijami, ki jim je ob svoji informacijski prenasičenosti priča. Iz literature je namreč razvidno, da večja količina informacij, ki jim je izpostavljen posameznik, ne vodi nujno tudi v bolj zdrav izbor hrane. Zmešnjavo porabnika avtorici preučujeta glede na vlogo množičnih medijev, oznake na izdelkih, socialne medije, komuniciranje javnih institucij. Praktična vrednost prispevka je, da avtorici v drugem delu predstavita tudi pregled literature, ki obravnava vprašanje, kako zmanjšati raven zmešnjave, s katero se posameznik sooča pri nakupovanju hrane, kar lahko vodi v izbiro in nakup zdravju prijaznejših izdelkov.
Bralcem želimo, da ob prispevkih te tematske številke Akademije MM, namenjene trajnostne-mu porabniku, ne bi doživeli zmede ob količini informacij, ki jih ponujamo. Predvsem pa, da bi znali posredovano znanje tudi koristno uporabiti v praksi - kot porabniki in kot marketinški strokovnjaki.
Zahvaljujemo se vsem avtorjem in avtoricam, predvsem pa recenzentom in recenzentkam za trud pri soustvarjanju te številke Akademije MM. Zaradi dragocenega prispevka in nesebičnega dela anonimnih recenzentov so objavljeni prispevki postali boljši, prav tako pa brez sodelovanja vseh vpletenih te številke Akademije MM ne bi bilo. Vsaka številka Akademije MM, tudi ta, je dragocena in daleč od tega, da bi bila samoumevna.
Naj bralcev ne zmede dejstvo, da je večina predstavljenih člankov v tej številki rezultat dobrega sodelovanja predstavnikov Katedre za trženje na Ekonomski fakulteti Univerze v Ljubljani in Katedre za tržno komuniciranje in odnose z javnostmi na Fakulteti za družbene vede Univerze v Ljubljani. Združil nas je skupni raziskovalni projekt z naslovom V iskanju trajnostne odgovorne porabe (TOP), šifra: J5-7292, ki ga je vodila red. prof. dr. Vesna Žabkar, financirala pa Agencija za raziskovalno dejavnost RS. Pri projektu je sodeloval tudi Inštitut za ekonomska raziskovanja. Nekatere druge prispevke sodelavcev pri projektu, ki so rezultat našega skupnega preučevanja trajnostne-ga uporabnika, najdete v drugih uglednih mednarodnih znanstvenih revijah. Vabilo k preučevanju trajnostnega uporabnika ostaja odprto. Trajnostni marketing je prihodnost.
red. prof. dr. Klement Podnar
Urednik 28. številke Akademije MM
The final paper, by Mila Zecevic and Mateja Kos Koklic, is entitled Healthy Food Choices and Consumer Confusion - Making Healthy Food Choice an Easy Task. It provides a literature review concerning healthy food and consumers' understanding of what is healthy. The papers aims to draw attention to the presence of confusion about buying food and the often contradicting and overwhelming information that consumers receive. The literature shows that the increasing amount of information that the consumers are exposed to does not lead to more healthy food choices. Consumers' sense of confusion is addressed in terms of the role of mass media, product labelling, social media, and communication of public institutions. The practical value of this paper lies in the literature review provided in the second part of the paper, which deals with the question how to reduce the level of confusion that individuals face when buying food, which would lead to the selection and purchase of health-friendly products.
We hope that our readers do not feel overwhelmed by the amount of information offered by the papers in this thematic issue of Akademija MM, which focuses on the sustainable consumer. And above all, we hope that the readers use this knowledge to their benefit in practice - as consumers and marketing professionals.
I want to thank all the authors and particularly the reviewers for their efforts in creating this issue of Akademija MM. The valuable contribution and selfless work of anonymous reviewers increased the quality of the papers; this issue would not be possible without the collaboration of everyone involved. This, like every other, issue of Akademija MM is valuable and far from being taken for granted.
Readers should not be confused by the fact that most of the papers in this issue are the result of a successful collaboration between the representatives of the Chair of Marketing at the School of Economics and Business of the University of Ljubljana and the Chair of Marketing Communications and Public Relations at the Faculty of Social Sciences of the University of Ljubljana. We worked together on a joint research project entitled V iskanju trajnostne odgovorne porabe (In Search of Sustainable Responsible Consumption - TOP), No. J5-7292, headed by Prof. Dr. Vesna Zabkar and funded by the Slovenian Research Agency (ARRS). The Institute for Economic Research was also involved in the project. Some other papers of our colleagues in the project, which are the result of our common research into sustainable consumers, can be found in other renowned
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international scientific journals. The invitation to conduct research on sustainable consumers remains open. Sustainable marketing is the future.
Prof. Dr. Klement Podnar
Editor of the 28th Issue of Akademija MM
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