TOUR i » THROUGH SWEDEN, SWEDISH-LAPLAND, FINLAND, &c. \ A TOUR T H R O U G II SWEDEN. SWEDISH-LAPLAND, FINLAND AND E N M A R K, IN A SERIES OF L E T T E R S> ILLUSTRATED WITH ENGRAVINGS. By MATTHEW C O N S E T T, Efq, Who accompanied Sir H, C. L'tidslly Bart, and Mr. Bowes in this Tour. LONDON: Vrintcdfor J. JOHNSON in St. Paul's Church-yard f W. GOLDSMITH in Pattrnoiler Row 5 T. LEWIS in Ruffi? 11 Street, Covent Garden. And R. CHRISTOPHER at Stockton. MDCCLXXXIX. T O Sir HENRY GEORGE LIDDELL, Bart. S I R, rT^ H E Author of the following Tour, cannot with fo much propriety infcribc it to any one as to yon3 by whole means it was undertaken, and whofe prcfence rendered it fo agreeable. To make that pleafure more permanent in his own breaft, induced the Author to commit his remarks to paper, and the Indulgence of his Friends has contributed to make them public. For this reafon, he fends the following Volume forth, " with all its Imperfections on its head " ; and if it Ihall A2 at 1) K D I C A T I O N. at any time fill up a leifure hour for thofe whom he fo highly refpefts, and to whom he takes this opportunity of acknowledging the greatcft Obligations, he hopes, though they may not find much to applaud, that their time will, at leait, have been innocently employed, I am, SIR, with much deference and refpecl;, your obliged humble Servant, MATTHEW CONSETT, LIST of SUBSCRIBERS. A Olit George Annitage, Bart. O George Allan, Efq. f. A. S Darlington 2 copies William Ambler Efq. Durham -, Adams Efq. M. P. Kev. C. Anitey, Vicar of Norton u Thomas Davifon Bland Efq. Kippax-park, /\ copies Mrs. Bland, 2 copies Coll. Bowater Calverly Bewick, Efq. Clofe-houfe William Borwick Efq. London --Bifs Efq. Sunderland, 2 co. Kev. John Brewfler, Stockton George Brown Efq. Stockton George Brown Eiq. London Thomas Bowes Efq* Durham Smith Burke Efq. Durham Adam Boulby Efq. York C Hon. General Cary, Levengrove William Chaloner Efq. Guif- brough, 2 copies Mrs. Chaloner Rev. Dr. Cooper Kirby-overblcw Mrs. Cooper Edward Collingwood Efq, Chirton Thomas Chapman Efq. F. A. S. London, 2 copies Henry Clarke Efq. Whitby 2 co. Edward Cleaver Efq. Mr. Cornwell, London Mr. R. Chnftophcr, Stockton Thomas Crathorne Efq. York D Thomas Smith Duck Efq. London Mrs. Davifon, Roe-hampton. 2 copies Rev. George Davifon, Sermon Captain Dixon Mrs. Dixon Kev. Mr. Davifon, Brancepeth Matthew D'odl worth Efq. E Rev.Dr.Ekins, Dean of Carlifle Sir John Eden Bart. M, i\ Henry EHifon Efq. Hebron-hall Dr. Dr. Emily 2 copies Mr. Evans, London F Sir William Foulis Bart. John llobinfon Foulis Efq. Thomas Fifhburne Efq. Whitby Robert Fowler Efq. Jonathan Fowlei Efq. Stockton G Charles Grey Efq. M. P. Henrv Gale Efq. Scruton Francis Gibfon Efq. Whitby Mr. Garth, Durham II Chriftopher Hill Efq. Sunderland Hendry Hopper Efq. Durham Anthony Hall Efq. Hias Hervey Efq. Ralph Hoar Eiq. York William Hutchinfon Efq. F. A, S. Barnardcaftle Mr. Havclock, Sunderland Mr. Hay man, London ____ ■—Hutton Efq. Anthony Hopper Efq. Nettcaftlc Chriftopher Hopper, Efq. Our-ha rn Richard Hopper Efq. Durham Mr. Hunter, Bookfeller, Whitby J Mathew Jackfon Efq Gulfbrough Francis Johnfon Efq. Gray's Inn John Johnfon Eiq. Gray's Inn C. Ibbetfon, Efq, Cocker* K Kirkleatham Library L Earl of Lincoln) 2 copies Sir Henry George Liddell Bart, 4. copies Lady Liddell, 2 copies Sir John Lawfon Bart. WilliamH. Lambtori Efq. M. P. Ralph Lambton Efq. William Lowes Efq. Edward Lafcclles Efq. Captain I afcelles Re v. Rob. Lafcelleo, Reclor of Middleton Benjamin Lumley Ffq. Stockton William Leighton Efq. Charlton, Effex M Earl of Mexborough Countefs of Mexborough Lord Mulgrave Vifcountefs Melbourne Sir Ralph Milbanke Bart. 2 copies Ralph Milbanke Efq. 2 copies .Hon. Mrs. Milbanke Sir William Milner Bart. M. P. Lady Milner R. S. Milnes Efq. M. P. John Milnes Eiq. Wrakefield -Milnes Efq. Thorn-houfe Mills ;- Mills Efq. Leeds - Milne, M. D. Newcaftle Edward Meynell Efq. Yarrn -■ Metcalfe Efq. Mrs. Mellifh Mr. Chriftopher Mawre, Stockton Thomas Mitchel Efq, York Rev. William Nelsfield Mr. Newton Mr. Francis Newberry, London P Hon, Henry Phipps M. P. Hon. Captain Phipps Thomas Pennant Efq. 5 copies Rev. E. Parker, Durham George Pearfon Efq. Durham R Marchioncfs of Rockingham Rev. Mr. Ramfden William RichardfonEfq. Whitby Rev. Mr. Richardfon Vicar of Witton Gilbert Jofeph Uitfon Efq. London Mrs. Rofr Mrs. Rook, Upton Hon. Lady Ramfden, 2 copies S Sir Martin Stapylton Bart. • Lion. R. L. Savilc, M. P. John Smyth Efq. M. f. Robert Shaftoc Efq. M. P. William"Sotheron Efq. M. P. Thomas Steel Efq. M. P. 2 cop.* Richard Stonehewer Efq. Robert Shuttle worth Efq, Mr. Southgate, London Rev. Mr. Southgate, ditto Rev. Dr. Shafroe, Rector of Brancepeth -. Storey Efq. Newcaftle - Scott Efq. George Sutton Efq. Stockton Captain Sutton, ditto Charles Sleigh Efq, ditto William Sleigh Efq. ditto Samuel Smith Efq. ditto Charles Spearman Efq. Durham John Thomas Stanley Efq. Edinburgh Mr. Sanderfon, Sunderland Pinckney Simpfon Efq, Richmond Mr. Spilfbury, London T John Tempeft Efq. M. P. 4 copies Mrs. Tempeft John Tempeft, junior, Efq. John Tweddel Lfq. U a thank — Townfhend Efq. Lady Elizabeth Townfhend Mrs. Townfhend Mann. Tunftal Efq. F. A. S. Wycliff, 2 copies Rev. George Taylor, London Mr. J. Mr. J. Todd, York, 4 copies W Lord Wentwortli Lady Williamfon Robert Ward Efq. London Hev. Mr. Ward Peregrine Wentworth Efq. Rowland Web Iter Efq. Stockton Dr. Wynne Timothy Williamfon Efq. London George Wilfon Efq. Snarefbrook ,-1 Wilfon Efq. Mrs Willon John Wilkinfon, fenior, Efq. Stockton William Wilkinfon Efq. Strcat- ham-common --Wilkinfon Efq. 2 copies ■-Wilkinfon Efq. Captain Wynne John Wharton Efq.Skelton Caf-tle John Wilkinfon, junior, Efq. Stockton Mifs Wilkinfon, Roe-hampton John Wear Efq. Stockton Captain Wayne, Stokefley Mr. R. Walker, Stockton Mr. Wye, London Mr Whitrowe, London -Wilkinfon Efq. Durham Y Henry Walker Yeoman Efq, Whitby CONTENTS, CONTENTS LETTER I. Page Introduction.....i LETTER II. Voyage to Sweden.— Town of Gottenburgh,-— Swedifh Ladies. - - - • m $ LETTER III. A Swedifh dinner.— country excurlion.— Swedifh Ordnance.— Soldiers.— A country Scat.— Cattle, Hcrfes, &c. - - - f) LETTER IV. Journey from Gottenburgh to Stockholm.— Vadebaka. — Gool roads.— Lidkioping.— Lake Wenner.— CataracL— Enebacken.— Marieftadt.— Blackfla.—. Stromlholm.— Kings-llables__Tibia-— Stockholm. 14 LETTER V. Stockholm.— Opera,— Citadel.-— Charles isth's clothes a — St. Page — St. Nicholas' church.— Redefholm church.— Dinner at the Englilh Refident's'. - - - 19 LETTER VI. Swedifh Ladies.— Mtific.— Education of Youth. - 24 LETTER VII. Diet of Sweden. 1. The Nobles. 2. The Clergy. 3. The Burgers. 4. The Peafants, - - 28 L E T • T E R VIII. King of Sweden— Iaft revolution— his manner, behaviour and perfon— erecls diflilleries— failure of his Scheme. - - * - - 32 LETTER IX. Diet refufes the King's demands—he retires to his camp — difpute fettled.— King's Character and manner of rewarding merit. - - " " 35 LETTER X. Late Queen Dowager of Sweden— her Character— builds the Palace of Drodenholm— her Learning. 38 LETTER XL Upfala.— Univerfity^- Linnaeus— The Ladies. 41 L E T T E R XII. Elkerby fall.— Gefle.— Igfund,— Melancholy Incident. •— Sun- —^ Sunval__Dogflau.— Lefver. - - 44 LETTER XIII. Uma in Swedifh Lapland.— Richlea.— Sunana.— travelling regulations.— Pithia. - 48 LETTER XIV. Gambelfladen.— Anecdote of Charles the Eleventh.— Grot.— Enter Finland.— Tornao.— Sun at Midnight 52 LETTER XV. Church at Tornao.— Judge's Lady— her Drefs.— Grand Ball. - » - - 55 LETTER XVr. Midfummer-day at Tornao.— Anecdote of a ^inlander. — Profeffor Helands— his Swarm of Bees.—Salmon Fifhery. - - •■ - 58 LETTER XVII. Laplanders— their Huts.— Women.— Language.— Poetry.—A Lapland'Song.— Religion.— Superfti-tions.— Conjuring Drum. - 62 LETTER XVIII Rein Deer.-*. Sledges.— Employment of the men.—. Employment of Women—their Embroidery—Drefs* a a — Lap- — Lapland Dogs.— Hunting of the Chader.— Fifhing Laplanders. - - 66 LETTER XIX Wild Game.— the Chader— Ora— Hierpe— Snori-pa, &c— Breed of Wood-cocks. - - - yx LETTER XX. Aquatic Fowls— Bohemian Chatterer— one found in England.— ./Edder-duck— Jo-Fugl.— Alk— Scarv --Swallows— Lapland fruits— Forefls— Flowers. 75 LETTER XXI. Thompfon's defcription of Lapland compared with the foregoing ObTervations. - - . 81 LETTER XXII. Natural State of the Laplander— Defcription of the Lapland Sledge. - - - 85 LETTER XXIII. Swedifh Finland-- Finlanders-- Trade— French Agents— Finland fair— Furs— Country— Lakes-Religion— their further Inftru&ion necefTary. 87 LETTER XXIV. Set out on our return— Lapland farnily— Cradle f food — food— huts— apparel.-compared with the Highlanders of Scotland.—Vitan—- Pithia. 91 LETTER XXV. Poverty of the Country—Sunana— Burea—Gum- boda- Poor Peafant- Dean of Bogde- his Lady— his Hofpitaliy.— Ojebyn, Dr. Solander's naxive place_Uma. - - 9& LETTER XXVL Dejecnaboda— Difficulties in eroding a Lake-further Impediments_ Hernofand— Sunval— ShepherdelTes. - m 99 LETTER XXVII. Igfund— Lapland Girls — a refle&ion on HOME. 102 LETTER XXVIU Fifhing party at Igfund — Gefle — Faulund— Copper works— Avefladt— another copper work— Mint. 105 LETTER XXIX. Stihla—■ Silver mine_ Agriculture_Upfala_, its Antiquity— Situation— Univerfity— Queen Chrif-tina— Grotius — Cathedral- King Erick's remains, 108 L£T* I I L E T T E It XXX. Stockholm — King's Chapel — Drottinholm Palace. 113 L E T T E R XXXI. Situation of Stockholm — Population— Market held on the water—cuftom of drinking Spirits— Brandy made of Rye and Ants-In Ranee of an Ant-eater. 115 L E T T E R XXXIL Agriculture— Soil — Climate— no medium ofSeafons, 119 LETTER • XXXIII., Architecture--. curious qgnftruaion of Bridges -Cultivation of Land. - - 122 LETTER XXXIV. , Cultivation of trees— belt method of propagating the Fir tree— Mofs- Suftenance of the rein-deer in winter. 125 L E T T ,E R XXXV. Charles i2th's cannon-- Adventure with General Stenbork's Maid fcrvant-Seen by Lady Koningf- mark at a play at War fa w - - 126 LETTER XXXVI. Soder-telge-• King's retinue--Nordkoping—— pleafant roads-— Lake Wetter- large Iiland. ljo L E T- Page LETTER XXXVII. Delays on the road—— want of accommodations- Woods-Helfingborg-» crofTed the Sound—— Elfmore—. Cattle of Cronenburg-Copenhagen. 133 ? • x > e :,t. t e it xxxvrn. Road from Elfmore to Copenhagen— Buildings— Women-Ifle of Amak— fingularity of its Inhabitants-.Danifii breed of Horfes-Character of the Danes— Pott-drivers— King — Prince— Military. 137 . L E„ T T . E R xXXIX|SB Palaces-Queen Dowager-Commerce-- Religion- Clergy—— Police - State of Agriculture-» Literature—— Round Tower — Government-Courts of Law-Nobility, 141 LETTER XL. Leave Denmark-- return to Helfingborg ■ - Got- tenburg---VoyagetoEngland-land at Shields -- reach Ravenfworth cattle-- conclufion. 145 APPENDIX. LETTER XLL An Account of the Lapland Girls 148 DIRECTIONS for placing the Plates; View of the Midnight Sun at Tornao - Frontifpiece Entrance into Upfala - - oppofite Page 41 The Rein Deer - • - - 67 The Kader - - : 7* The Orre: male and female i = • 72 The Hierpe, and the Snoripa - • ib. The Lapland Sledge ■ - - 86 Sighre and Aniea, Lapland Women. • - 143 A TOUR A TOUR THROUGH SWEDEN. LETTER I. At Sea, T Make no doubt but you have long imagined that all our projected Schemes and plans of* a Voyage to Sweden and a Lapland Journey, would come to nothing, and like Shakefpeare's iC cloud-capt toioers and B gorgeous gorgeous Palaces, leave not a wreck behind. " When you fee this Letter, however, all your doubts will vanifh, as we are now embarked upon the wide Ocean, and Favonian breezes are wafting us to the Shores of Sweden. You, and perhaps our other friends, are fmiling at our romantic Expedition, you are laying your heads together and confulting how three mortals, like Sir H. G. L. Mr. B. and myfelf, can expe£t to fubfift upon Lapland mountains, or how we ever formed the refolution of undertaking fo enterprizing a Journey. But, my dear friend, give yourfelf no trouble about us. We have begun our Expedition with good Spirits and undiminifhed Courage and hope to finifh it with equal eclat. Perhaps you will not believe me when I fay that we are enjoying ourfelves in our Cabin with our ufual Englifh Cheer, difdaining the bluftering of Boreas or the tumult of the waves, with " One wide Ocean all around us, " All above us one black Sky." There is a variety in a fhort Voyage very agreeable to a perfon accuflomed to live on land, provided he can enfure himfelf from Sea-ficknefs. The unbounded blue Horizon, the Sun-beam playing upon the waters, the floating floating of the Sails, and gay tackling of the Ship, give a brilliancy to the fcene that cannot fail to pleafe. This is the delightful Profpect. which the Land-man is fo apt to paint. But when the melancholy Sailor takesup the pencil, how different is the picture which he draws ? He delineates flormy fkies and rolling waves, he paints the over-hanging rock and foundered (hip, and all the hardfhips of a Seaman's Life. But, I think, I had better draw a curtain before this Painting, left, like the Child that drefles up a Giant, in our prefent fituation 1 mould happen to be afraid of the creature of my own fancy. When we arrive at Gottenburg, which we hourly expect, I will give you the journal of our Voyage ; and, as occafion offers, will continue my narrative during the remainder of our Expedition. Tho', in all probability you will not meet with much novelty, for I pretend not to vie with fuch celebrated Travellers as Coxe or Wraxal, yet fuch reflections you will meet with as will at lean, fatisfy your curiofity, how we executed our agreeable Scheme. We took our departure from Ravenfworth-caftle the Seat of Sir H. G. L. on the 24th. day of May 1786, and B 2 embarked embarked about fix the fame Evening at Shields on board the Gottenburg Merchant Capt. George Fothergill. We got under-way about twelve o'Clock at night, with a brifk Gale at W, N. W, LETTER II. Gottenburg May 28. 1786. OAFELY landed on the coafl of Sweden, I have now ^ time to refume my writing and fulfil my promifc. I engaged myfelf to give you a faithful narrative oF bur proceedings. It will be necelTary, therefore, to relate every circumflance, with the fame regularity that it happened, from the time that we loll light of Tynmouth Caftlc and the Englifh fhore. The two firft days palled along with unvaried tranquillity ; our Ship failing gently with a fair wind from four and an half to, fometimes, feven and eight knots in an hour. On Saturday the 27th. about fix in the morning, we made, in the failor's language, the Naze, a point of land on the Norway coafl at the Entrance of the Scaggerac, or as it is fometimes called, CattegatSea. The country here appears to be very high and mountainous. Soon after we came in fight of the Jutland part of the Danifh Territories, on the oppofite fide, and paft the Scaw, a light houfe on this coafl, with a frefh breeze, al-mofl increafing to a Gale of wind. We were obliged to reef our topfails, the fea running fo very high. The weather weather hazy, and exceeding cold. As our Voyage, however, was almofl; over we had no great reafon to com plain. About eleven in the morning we made Wing's Beacon, which is fituated on an high barren rock not Far from the mouth of the River Gotha. In this expofed fitu-ation live the Pilots, bravingthe florms and tempelts for the fake of their profefiion, as this commands a fine Sea- view, and (hips may be feen from hence at a great diflance. When we came near this place we hoifted a Jack upon the Main-top-maft-head as a fignal to the Pilots. They foon obeyed the fummons, and the fame afternoon we were fafely moored in the Harbour of Gottenburg. Soon after we landed, we dined at the Englifh Hotel. After dinner the Englilh Conful's Coach attended us at the Inn, and conducted us to the Houfe of Mr. Smith, a Merchant refident here, whofe attention and civility demand our warmeft Thanks. We fpent the evening with him and were entertained with much eafe and Hof-pitality. The Town of Gottenburg is neat, clean and well-built; the ilreets are regular and uniform ; the houfes, chiefly of wood wood painted fo as to refemble brick and Rone. Part of the Town flands upon a fwampy plain, which like the Dutch towns, is interfered by Canals, the other part upon the declivity of an hill. The Harbour is commodious and convenient. There are eflablifhments here of feveral branches of commerce, particularly an Eaft India company and an Herring Filhery. From thefe two caufes alone this place has increafed confiderably in the fpace of a very few years. The Entrance of the Harbour is guarded by the fort of new Elf,burg which is tituated on a fmall rocky Ifland and garrifoncd. The Maikets here are extremely well fupplied with necettaries and for very moderate prices. The Chief Magistrate here, is the Bur go-mailer, who regulates the Markets, and pofTeffes the civil direction of the Town, in the fame manner as the Mayor of corporate Towns in England. You will naturally expec* that I mould not be many hours in Sweden before I fhould be able to give fome account of the fairer part of the Creation, who in every quarter of the Globe arc entitled to attention. But But I will not be too rafh in delivering my opinion, I am, as yet, but a young Swede, and therefore cannot be fuppofed to have had many opportunities of obfervation. The Ladies, that have hitherto fallen in my way, have generally covered their beauties with a Veil, At leall I am willing to fuppofe there is beauty where I cannot prove the contrary; tho' I own, from their fhapes and ftzes, that Spectator is*very complai-fant, who gives them credit for perfonal qualifications which certainly do not prefent themfelves before his Eyes, LETTER III. Gottenburg June 2. 1786, A S we intend leaving Gottenburg to-morrow, I fhall refume my narrative and give you Tome account of our proceedings fince I wrote Jafl. On the 29th. we accepted an Invitation to dinner from Mr. Hall, a Merchant of Eminence in this place, at whofe houfe we were elegantly entertained after the Swedifh Fafhicm. The dinner, as well as fupper which followed, confifted chiefly of Sweet-meats, Fruits, &c. which were plentifully interfperfed with ornamental Images. But do not imagine this was the whole of our Entertainment. Other more fubflantial difhes were placed on the corners of the table. Amongft which were a Chader, ( a Swedifh bird ) a cock of the wood (another great rarity) and a Pike Pudding. The latter difh will require fome explanation. It confifls of* a Pike dreffed fo as to refemble the taite of a cuftard, and yet not lofing the flavour of a fifh. I thought it rather palatable than otherwife. The method of conducting themfelves at table has a very fingular ap- c pearance.. pearance to a ftranger. Every dim, after being cut up, is handed about in rotation from one to another; every one helps himfelf and panes it to the next. Wine and all other Liquors fland upon the table. The rule is, to help yourfelves without any kind of ceremony ; they drink no healths. The Ladies were particularly ailiduous in perpetually filling our glafles. The cloth is not drawn as in England, neither do the Gentlemen fit after the Ladies rife. Each Gentleman condu61s a Lady to another fuit of apartments where Coffee is ready prepared. Tea about three hours after; then Cards and Mufic, or a walk 'till Supper. Upon this occafion feveral Officers both of naval and military diftinction were prefent. The day after, we dined with Mr. Smith and were received by him with great politenefs. It is the Etiquette of this country to falute the hand of every Lady you are introduced to; a ceremony you may be allured we did not forget upon this occafion. We partook of a mod elegant dinner confiding of various flight dimes, After Coffee, Mr. Bowes, Mr. Hall junior, andmyfelf, walked with the Ladies by the fide of a beautiful canal leading to to the country, returned to tea and cards; fupped and fpent the evening very agreeably. Several Swedifh, French, and Englifh Songs were remarkably well lung. About twelve we returned to our Lodgings. On the 31ft. we were accommodated with the Conful's coach, and made an excurhon of a few miles into the country. The rocks which we pad were piclurefque and magnificent : the vallies feemed rich and were cloathed with a fine verdure. We returned to dine at the Englifh tavern, and fpent the evening with Mr, Smith. On the j ft. of June we took a view of the Swedifh Ordnance which were then exercifing for a review. It would be too humiliating to draw a comparifon between what we faw, and the Englifh Artillery, The Soldiers, in general, look old and ina£live j their regimentals are bad and unbecoming, efpecially thofe of the Officers which are both whimfical, gaudy, and ridiculoufly ornamented with iibbons, died feathers, Sec. It may not be improper in this place to obfervc that the forces of Sweden are, properly fpeaking, a regulated militia. Their armies C 2 confided confided formerly of peafants who were remarkable only for their courage and numbers. The Cavalry arefupport-ed by a rate railed upon the nobility and gentry according to their eflates; the Infantry by the peafants. Every farm of lixty pounds a year is charged with a foot Soldier, who, if he marry, has a houfe built at the charge of the peafant, who alfo mull furnifti him with hay to keep a cow in winter, paflurage in fummer, and mud plough, fow, and reap for him; and when this Soldier dies, they mult provide one in his room. The Officers of horfe and foot are maintained by the King, who appoints a certain portion of land for that end, fo that every Officer has a houfe and land, and the rent of as many farms as make up his pay. We dined this day with the ConfuJ, where the Swedifh Admiral, the French Conful, and many Barons, invelled with different orders according to the conditution and cudom of the country, were prefent. In the afternoon we fawthe Artillery fire at a target. The Military performances were very indifferent. Returned to the Conful's and fpent the evening. The The next day was agreeably fpent in a vifit to Mr. Hali's country feat, which is fituatcd about five Englifti miles from Gottenburg. The fituation is moll beaut if id and romantic ; it is environed with rocks of various {hapes, which run in ridges for many miles; belowr, appears to the view, a fine extenfive Lake, far exceeding thofe of either Cumberland or Weftmorland ; it abounds in pike, perch, trout and a variety of other fifh. The woods confifl chiefly of oak, horfe-chefnut, birch, and mountain-afh, which grow tall but are flender, owing, I imagine, to the very thin furfacc of foil. The cattle which we faw here w7ere, in general, fmall, the fheep, few and bad, their cloathing more refembles hair than wool. The horfes are fmall, like the welch ponies, but amazingly active; their common polling is about nine or ten Englifh miles an hour. The drivers are truly ridiculous both in manner and appearance. They have no harnefs for their carriages but ufe only ropes tied together with knots, which often flip and impede your expedition; otherwife the velocity would be beyond the travellers conception. LETTER IV. Stockholm, June 8. 1786. AT length, after a long and not difagreeable journey, in which we feldom (topped longer than necetfity required, we arrived at the Metropolis of the Kingdom of Sweden laft night. That you may travel along with us in idea, I fhall continue to mention fuch particulars as occurred on the road. We left Gottenburg on the afternoon of the 3d. inftant, and Ilept that night at a fmall Village called Vadebaka where we met with very bad accommodations of every kind. Our beds were dirty and uncomfortable, and no kind of victuals were to be got, but what we brought along with us. The roads, however, were remarkably good and the country agreeably variegated with rocks and woods, tillage-land and barren moors. The woods principally con hit. of the fpruce and filverfir, fome few oaks and motn-tain-athes. The day following we purfued our Jo y rue y Journey through a fine country, and, as before, with delightful roads. I cannot omit a proper commendation of this attention to travellers. Indeed the advantage muff be great to every country where fo much care is taken of the public roads. Tho' we have no great reafon to complain in England of our public turnpike roads, yet nothing there is comparable to thefe; fwamps, moraffes 8cc. are all equally made good ; and thofe fine woods and gravel roads have fo beautiful an effec.1 that the traveller mitrht fre-quently fuppofe himfelf entering the avenue or approach to fome great Manfion. We flopped at a very neat town called Lidkioping near the beautiful Lake Wenner which is the largefl in Sweden being about one hundred miles long, and feventy-five broad. The river Gotha runs from hence by Gottenburg to the Sea. At Trolhetta there are feveral cataracls of great height and magnificence. In one place it falls over a rock fixty feet high with fuch a noife that it is heard at the diflance of two hundred furlongs. The timber that is floated down thi.; river falls over this precipice with fuch impetu-ofity that it difappears for a confiderable time before it makes its appearance again. The bed into which this cataract falls has been founded by lines of feveral hundred fathom but never difcovered. kThe fame night night we llept at Enebacken; our beds bad and horrid accommodations as ufual. Very early in the morning on the 5th. we took our departure and travelled with wonderful velocity to Marief-tadt where we breakfalled. This is a large town upon the fame beautiful and extenfive Lake. The woods were remarkably fine and thick on each fide of the road, which is good, but mountainous. We found this a long and tedious ftage, yet the variety of objects, wood, water, and rocks, beautifully arranged rendered it agreeable. The woods were fo extenfive that we could feldom fee their limits. Of the Feathered tribe which we met with in this country, were the chader, ora, and black cock: of the Quadrupeds, the wolf, the bear, red and fallow deer, foxes, hares, and, it is faid, fome few elks. This evening we relied, if it might be fo called, at Blacklla ; beds worle than before, and as the luxury of fheets W2.S not to be had, we flept in our cloaths ; and even thefe did not proteel us from troublefome companions, a large SWEDEN. 17 a large fpecies of the Flea peculiar to that country. We continued our Journey the day following and paf-fed through a barren rocky country, very different from the lafl ftage. There was no entertainment to the eye for many miles 'till we came to Stromfholm a Palace belonging to the King of Sweden; a very poor manfion for Royalty indeed, but delightfully fituated upon the lake Meller, which extends as far a? Stockholm. The King's Stables in this place are thought magnificent and worth the traveller's notice, but in my opinion the very contra-ry is the truth. They are little better than our Yorkfhire barns. They contain twenty-two horfes which are efleem-ed beautiful in Sweden. No ftraw is here ufed for bed-ding, but the horfes lie upon boards. So far I mult acknowledge from my own obfervation that this method of treating horfes is preferable to our own. Through all Sweden and Denmark you feldom fee a lame or foundered horfe, which is not the cafe in England. The reafon undoubtly is, that they are rendered more tender by (landing on a hot-bed produced by their own litter. On the next day we purfued our Journey to Stockholm D not 18 A TOUR T H R O U G PI not without hopes that we mould reach our temporary home before night. We travelled the three firft ftages over barren heaths, morailes, &c. A rocky wild fcene around us afforded us but little pleafure, as our eye could neither be gratified by a fine profpeel, nor our palate by a fatisfaclion of a different nature. We were at length. agreeably relieved by entering a rich cultivated country ; delightful, well watered vallies, lakes ornamented with many trees and beautiful overhanging rocks. At Tibia we were not unpleafantly furprifed with a tolerable dinner, and we arrived the fame evening at Stockholm. A Defcription of this Metropolis I muff defer 'till I have had an opportunity of examining the fcenes around me. Here, however, we are, fafc and well; and able to inform you how fincerely I remain &c. LETTER V. Stockholm, June 12. 1786. 'Hp HE City of Stockholm is a well built town tho* badly paved. It is furrounded by the Baltic Tea and lake Meller at their confluence. It is governed by two Burgo-mafters and twenty-four Rodmen or Aldermen. The King's Palace is magnificent. The Exchange is alfo a good and fpacious building, the refort of many capital merchants. The Churches here are fuperbly decorated with a great variety of fplendid ornaments. The people fhew you much politenefs, and drefs in a ftile refembling that of the Spaniards. The almollobfolete French fafhion is ftill in practice among the men, as they feldom meet but they falute each other. The day after our arrival we dined at a Tavern, remarkable for dirt and bad, accommodation. In the evening we went to the Opera ; the houfe is a handfome building, magnificently lighted up. His Majefly, the young Prince, D 2 and 2o ATOUR THROUGH and many of the Nobility, were prefent. The dreffes of the Actors were fuperb; the performance, a Swedifh hif-torical piece reprefenting Guftavus I. befieging the city of Stockholm, and routing the Danes out of the country. A magnificent flattie is erected before the diet-houfe in memory of that Prince whom the Swedes regard at this day as their deliverer from Danilh tyranny. The next day we waited upon Sir Thomas Wroughton, who is the Englifh minifler refident at this court; a Gentleman of great politenefs and affability, who fills that department with much credit to himfelf, and honor to his country. On Saturday the loth, we made a party to view the Citadel, an ancient building, where may be feen the royal armory, colours, and other trophies wTorthy of ob-fervation, taken by the military Heroes of the nation. The curiofities which we thought moll remarkable were, Charles the XII's fhirt, coat, boots and gloves which he wore at the time when he was killed at the fiege of Fredrickfhall. The regimental coat is of a dark blue colour, with large round gilt buttons, the waifcoat waiflcoat and breeches yellow, his fhirt fine, but plain, a black plain cravat, his boots very flrong and long with fquare toes and Reel fpurs, his gloves made of very llrong leather, with ftiff tops; the hat alfo which he wore that day was (hot through above the right eye ; a (hot which killed him upon the fpot. Various are the conjectures, even to this day, concerning the fall of that raih Hero. It is furmifed with circumflantial probability that he fell by the hand of fome of his own Army. It is certain, blood is dill to be feen on the gloves, and the mark of his fingers is evident upon his fword belt. It feems as if he had put his hand to the wound when fhot, and immediately attempted to draw his fword to flab, or defend him-felf againft, the affafTin. Undoubtedly he had involved his country in much debt, and many difficulties; but being of aturbulant fpirit (almofl bordering on madnefs) would not liflen to the diftrelTes and repeated felicitations of his injured Subjects. His premature death, therefore, may be thus accounted for without any improbability. He fell a martyr to his ambition. On Sunday the nth. we went to St. Nicholas's Church. After divine fervice we were (hewn many fuperb and coflly coflly ornaments of hlver and gold. As the Lutheran ProfefTion is very different from that of the church of Rome, I was much furprifed to find the popifh mode^ of worfhip, with refpecl to external fplendor, fo much adopted in thofe churches. The Priefl, upon approaching the altar, inverts himfelf in a rich embroidered cope, and alfo officiates according to many Roman Catholic cuftoms. Above the altar-table, the afcenfion of our Saviour is represented in folid gold, inlaid with hlver of mofl exquifitc workmanfhip, well worth the traveller's attention. There were many crucifixes of folid filver and gold. Afterwards we were conducted to the church of Redef-holm, where lie interred many of the Swedifh Kings. The fepulchre of Charles XII. had been attempted to be opened, out of curiofity, when Prince Henry of Prufia vifited Stockholm, about twenty years ago, but being of marble and the lid beginning to break, they defifled. The Lutherans are very rigid in their attendance upon divine fervice, but when that is over, as in France and other foreign countries, they go to plays, operas, and all kind of amufements. On the On the 12th. we dined with the Englifh minifler, where a Swedifh Admiral, feveral Officers of deftinftion, and many Englifh Gentlemen, were prefent. Sir Thomas paid us the compliment of inviting many of our own countrymen to his table that he might give us an Engli/Ji dinner; but alas! that proved merely nominal, as it all underwent a Swedifh difguife. LETTER VI. Stockholm T Take the liberty of continuing in this Letter my mif-cellaneous remarks on this country, which, I expect, you mull receive with no fmall degree of indulgence, as many of them are the rcfult of hafly obfervation. I would not have it underflood that the Swedifh Ladies, in general, are difgufting to an Englifli taite. There are many whofc education and accomplifhments are as dif-tinguifhed as their birth, and whole affable temper and difpofition render them perfectly amiable. Thefe qualifications a flranger to their language cannot always enjoy. They poffefs no fmall fhare of' viva city, wit, and affability, with many other accomplifhments ; and to thefe we mufl add, the greatefl delicacy of manners. 'Tis true their mode of drefs appears at firfl fight rather lingular to a flranger, as in fome degree divefling them of elegance; but that foon wears off and becomes reconciled to us by fafhion. the modern corrector of all abfurdities. In honor and juflification of the Swedifh Fair, this peculiar merit mufl mud certainly be allowed them, they poflefs a (lability of temper and are by no means prone to frequent and fantailic changes either of mind or apparel; neither are they fubjecl to the extremes of decoration but obferve a Uriel mediocrity. They are not actuated by that fpirit of Emulation which we may obferve in fome countries that we know, neither do they endeavor to exceed or excel one another in distinctions of this trifling nature. Mufic is efleemed one of the mod polite accompliih-ments among the Ladies; it is indeed almofl a general Science in this country. Many of theii mufic Maflers are held in high repute, and that vocation is thought fo honorable as to introduce them to all alfemblies, with people of the lirfl difiin&ion. The Church mufic of the Swedes, infpires the mind with religious awe. It operates, however, often too powerfully on weak minds and produces more the fhew than the true fpirit of Religion. It is not my intention, however, to deny the power of Mufic in difpoling the mind to ferioufnefs, and adding to the very fpirit of devotion. Milton, who, we all know, E was 2 6 A T OUR T II R O U G II was not over fond of the external decorations of Religion as prjfciled in the Church of England, yet allows the pouer of Harmony in this refpecl. After defcribing the Jludious Cloifler, the high embowred roof, the antique Pillars and Jloricd Windows, cajling, as he fays, a dim religious light; lie adds There let the pealing organ blow To the full voie'd quire below, In Service high and Anthems clear, As may with fweetnefs through mine Ear DilTolve me into extafies And bring all Heav'n before mine Eyes. Much credit is due to this nation with iefpe6t to the Education and training up of young people fo as to render them ufeful members of Society. They are particularly attentive to the Education of the inferior claffes of people; for which beneficial purpofe they have inftituted feminaries and fchools, which are carefully infpecred by the fuperior and dignified Clergy. When a youth attains a certain age, fo as to be capable either of trade or any profeflior.al line of life; if he (hews any particular marks of oF genius, or an uncommon afliduity in any of the walks of Science, thefe ecclefiatlical directors report him to the King who gives orders, as the reward of his merit, that he may receive an Education fuitably adapted to his temper and the bent of his inclination. If he continues his diligence and attention, his promotion his certain. This truly laudable inllitution and exemplary pattern may well be thought worthy the imitation of more enlightened nations, as it is certainly productive of much emulation and improvement. To dig the rough diamond from the mine is doubtlefs a commendable labor, but to polilh it and make it fit for ufe deferves the higheit praifes* s£ A T OUR THROUGH LETTER VII. Stockholm. HPIIE Diet of the State, which is fitting at this time, confids of the King and general Eftates of the Kingdom, which are thus divided : Firfr, the Nobility. Secondly, the Clergy. Thirdly, the Burgers. And fourthly, the Peafants. Every military perfon of rank, from a General to a Captain, has the privilege of fitting in Council and giving his vote. The Clergy elect from their deaneries and feparate parifhes a certain number, who, with the Bittiops and inferior Clergy, reprefent that Body. Every Corporation elects the Burgers to reprefent them. From Stockholm, as it is the capital, and containing the largcff, number of Inhabitants they have double the number, which, when united, form a large and confiderable Body. The Peafants, who chufc one of their own people from every parifh to reprefent them, take alio their feat in Diet. When the King convenes the Diet, which he generally does does on particular and emergent occafions, the Affembly meet at Stockholm in a very elegant Edifice built for this purpofe. Their method of proceeding is this : His Majefly informs them by a fpeech from the throne of the caufe of their convention; they then divide and feparate into four different chambers, the Nobles into a houfe of their own, the Clergy into the cathedral, the Burgers and Peafants into another building acrofs the market-place. In their feveral chambers they conhder the matter in queflion and give their afferit or diffent. The vote is carried by a majority. Every chamber has a negative in paffing a Jaw. After each of the States has come to a determination they return in regular order from the feparate chambers to the Diet-houfe, where the King fits and receives their dec!* five votes. I could not but remark the pomp of their procefTion from the Council chamber to the Diet-houfe. They are arranged in great iorm and the Town guard turns out under arms as they pafs. The firfl Noble, venerable in age and dreffed in the court fafhion, went lirft ; the reft of the Nobility in pairs after; then the Archbifhop of Upfala, a man man of a very reverend and apoflolic appearance with a gold chain about his neck; the other Biihops and Clergy two and two ; then the principal Magiflrate of Stockholm at the head of the Burgers; and laflly, the poor Peafants, the fingularity ofwhofe apparel and lank hair formed a remarkable contrail with thole who went before. Yet, tho* appearances don't favor tliofe people, I was well informed that they are far from being deficient in the politics of their own country, and wonderfully {killed in the knowledge of their own national conflitution. They are firm in opinion, neither to be bribed or biaffed, but adhere Uriel-ly to the wellfare and credit of their nation. Thefe people are particularly and mod vigouroufly attentive to the actions and honor of the Senate, which is compofed of fourteen Senators. Tho' the Peafants them* felves are excluded from voting for the ele£lion of a Senator, yet the Senate is always accountable to the Diet, of which they make a part, for every tranfaclion of its adminillration. "So that the Peafants have the power of checking the irregularity or encroaching power of a preflimptuous Noble, Neither will they admit the moll trifling infringement of any conflitutional privilege whatever. Rights Rights of fuch importance, tho' veiled, as may be imagined, in an illiterate race of people, produce the good effects of decorum and a well regulated government. A Senator is appointed as prefident to every court of juflice, and a council, to manage and regulate all boards etlablifhed for the ufe of public revenues; fuch as military offices, marine departments, and all other civil and commercial appointments. Their laws are comprized in a fmall compafs, and feldom fubject them to the diflurbance of litigation ; fo that the profeflion of the long robe in Sweden is of fmall repute. LETTER VIII. Stockholm TTIS Alajeltys late animated and enterprizing attempt for a revolution fucceeded to a certain degree, but not fo far as to introduce and eftablifh an unlimited monarchy, lie gained the Soldiers, and many of his Subjects joined his party and took the oaths of allegiance in con-fequence of a moft nervous and fpirited addrefs which he made to his people. His elocution, affable manner, and great condefcenfion, which indeed was only affumed to ferve his turn, rendered him the idol of his country, and what added more to the patriotic zeal which they fhewed for him, was, that he was a native of Sweden. His perfon is rather low but well made and active. It is very fingular that of one fide of his face does not at all refembie the other. He delights much in'military exercifes and forms an annual camp at a fmall diflance from Stockholm, where he dedicates his time to military improvements. The want of population, which is very much the cafe in Sweden, and above all, the want of current coin, will always always give a mod effectual check to monarchical ambi-bition, Tho' the King maintains, and perfonally infpects the moll minute department of State, and attaches him-felf to every frugal fyftem of regal management, yet all is not fufficient to effect his purpofes. Necellity is a plea which even Kings canuot refill. "Whether this was the reafon, or whether he fufpecled fome impofition in the management of the public revenues, and particulaly in that of'diflilled Spirits, or whether he had an eye only to his own private emolument, certain it is, that his Majefly iffued an edict for discontinuing every diflillery of fpirituous liquors throughout the Kingdom. A fecond ordinance was immediately proclaimed for erecting diflilleries of his own in every province and laying a fevere penalty on thofe who dared to manufac-ture their own brandy. This Expectation of increafing wealth foon vanifhed and proved but an additional calamity. Partly from his own injudicious management, and partly from the impofitions of thofe he employed, he foon found the ill Effects of his Schemes. Doubtlefs, from fuch a precipitate mifconduct, it was natural to F imagine imagine, that many and great diflentions would have ar:-fen among the People. Such difcontents his Majefly w^s aware of, and to appeafe them ordered a reduction of the price from feven Shillings per Gallon to three Shillings and Sixpence. This Hill had not the defircd effect, but on the contrary proved the confequence of more immediate ruin. This want of commercial knowledge plunged him in ferious and unforfeen dificulties, till at length it determined him to an application to Diet for relief. How far thefe■ ariftocratical people complied with his defirea, how far the exigences of his fituation were relieved, or whether any fupply was granted, has not yet tranfpircd. LETTER IX. Stockho Im, TN my lafl I gave you an account of the tranfactions that have been pahrng between the King and the Diet. I can now inform you that this powerful Aifembly, men, venerable in office, and ready to oppofe every apparent principle of defpotifm, rcfufed to comply with a fcheme which he laid before them for a general liquidation of the royal debts. A further impropriety of conduct, his Ma-jefly was guilty of, in attempting to exact from his Country, a more exorbitant Sum to defray (as he faid) his expences to England. This was equally difapproved of by the haughty SwTedes, who immediately and emphatically pronounced a general negative. Further appeals were then unneceffary, and all addreffes to his obflinate Countrymen proved ineffectual,, This difappointment was not well relifhed, and indeed •incurred the royal difpleafure. Being a man of a warm / ami impetuous difpofition, his Majefty difmifTed the Diet F 2 wilfc / with a very fpirited Speech cenfuring their meafures and difapproving of their oppofition to him. After this he retired to the Camp and did not return to Stockholm for fome days. This had likely to have terminated in a very ferious manner, but by the proper and timely interference of good Minifters, tranquillity was at length happily rellored to this Court. Though the imprudence of his Majefty's conduct may frequently throw a fhade over fome parts of his character, yet he pofTefTes many good qualities which more than counterbalance thefe failings, and indeed add a brilliancy to his many diflinguifhed virtues. He is firm in friendship and always ready mofl liberally to recompenfe the fidelity of his Servants, fo far as pecuniary ability will permit. When this cannot be done, which is fometimes the cafe, he very judicioufly confers honors and di'f-tinctions, titles, ftars, and ribbons. Thefe honors he confers promifcuoufly on all ranks and ftations; neither regarding birth or any family diflinction whatever. This Policy, adopted now by the Sovereigns of molt countries, rewards merit at a fmall expence and procures -an additional additional number of retainers to the Court, He ufes the fame means for the encouragement of literature and in promoting the Arts and Sciences, In this country, and a happy distinction it is, even the lowed Mechanic is encouraged by a reward, equal to the ingenuity which he poflefles. This proper policy cannot fail in the end of producing good effects throughout the Swedifh dominions, and affords an Example worthy the imitation of the moll civilized Kingdoms* l e t ter LETTER X. Stockholm **JPHE late Dowager Queen, who was Sifter to his late Majefly of Prufia, oppofed many of the prefent King's public meafures, and (hewed great difapprobation of her Sons partiality to the cuftoms and manners of the French; which, as it was likely, did not fail to give the French,feveral advantages, the confequence of fuch delu-fion. That politic people, in this cafe did not omit the improvement of fo favorable an opportunity of advancing their interells. At length by gradual approaches and unfufpe£hd fubtilty they made an invaluable purch-^.fe and became pofleffors of a great part of the Harbour of Gottenburg. This fo greatly difpleafed the Dowager Queen, that, from that time, fhe abfented herfelf from the Court and retired to the fmall, but beautiful. Palace built i,n the Garden at Drodenholm. It would be wrong to pafs over the character of this Lady in filence. She partook of many of the ftrong mental mental quilities o( her Brother. She was not only wel! gift* led in all the parts of profound literature, but her unlimited knowledge extended through every fyflem of politics-. Early in life (lie took much delight in the cultivation of a ftrong natural understanding, which fhe continued to improve to her death. That (he might have a retirement proper for this purpofe fhe built this fmall Palace in the Garden at Drodenholm,'which is elegant and of moil exquifite Architecture. The Chinefe talle prevails moil ; there are feveral apartments decorated with mandarins, china-vafes and various ornaments which highly compliment her talte and judgement. In this retirement fhe dedicated her time to books, and by indefatigable fludy became a proficient in almoll every language, but particularly in the Latin tongue, which, it is faid, fhe thoroughly underflood. The library, which is of her own collection and extremely well chofen, is now a (landing teftimony of her genius. Her private character, whatever may have been faid by the tongue of [lander, it is not my bufinefs to invefligate. To-morrow we intend to putfue our Journey to Lapland 3 Lapland; when I return to Stockholm I {hall continue my reflections upon, either the cuftoms, manners, or Politicks of this people, as it may happen. But do not fuppofe this (hall in the mean time prevent your hearing from me. I (hall write as often as I am able, prefuming on your friendfhip, that I cannot too often fubf'cribe myfelf yours &c. LETTER XI. Upfala, 13th. June. T TPSALA, where we arrived this morning on our road to Lapland, is the firft Univerfity of eminence and repute in Sweden. Many Foreigners and Students of different nations, even from England, refort here for Education. The profeffors of fcience and language are xnen of unqueflionable abilities, and of great reputation for learning. I had the pleafure of dining with two of thefe profeflional Gentlemen. Inflead, as I expected, of finding them a formal andprecife people, I was agreeably furprifed to fee them fet afide every unneceffary referve, and with the greateft politenefs, freedom, and good humour entertain us with every information which we wifhed. The City of Upfala is a pleafant and healthful fituation: in the lower part of the City there is a fine fquare which forms the market-place; on an eminence is the cattle which confifls of many beautiful and lofty buildings G chiefly chiefly of wood, commanding a diftant but moil extenfive view of the Gulf of Bothnia ; from hence there is a mofl commodious communication with Stockholm. The much renowned Linaeus firft formed here his celebrated Botanical Garden. It affords no extraordinary appearance to a flranger ignorant of Botany, but is matter of much curiolity to iludents in that Science, The Fair in this place will not allow themfelves to pafs unobferved. I fhould not therefore excufe myfelf of rudenefs, if I were to omit the leafl appearance of refpecl. They fhew great attention to flrangers and afiume a peculiar gaiety which in England might have the appearance of levity. It may not, however, appear fo very extraordinary that thefe Ladies fhould poffefs fome knowledge of the fofter pafTions, having all the advantage of a College Education. It mull not be confidered as a particular want of refpecl; to the married Ladies of Upfala, if I remark that at this place fome fell under our obfervation, whofe conduct and behaviour, flill lefs obeyed the rules of decorum, than the the unmarried Fair ones I have already mentioned. I am not the firft Traveller that has had occafion to make this remark, not on Sweden only, but on many of the Northern Kingdoms, particularly Germany. Whatever reafon may be affigned for this it is certainly true. And it would be well if in more fafhionable countries, the Mafk of Matrimony were not fo frequently made ufe of, as a covering for Levity and Diffipation, a fkreen for the improper Indulgence of licentious Inclinations. This celebrated City and Univerfity deferves a more particular attention than I am at prefent able to bellow upon it. When we return, which we fhall do, through this place, I will endeavour to give you a better account of its Hiftory. Sir H. G. L. has caufed a drawing of our Entrance into this City, to be engraved, which will accompany this Letter, iji A TOUR THRODG II LETTER XII. June 18, 1786. T Write this from a Village on the road that I may not interrupt the narrative of our Journey. I fhall re-fume my pen when we become more (xationary. We left Upfala early in the morning on the 14th. of June, and attempted to dine at a dirty Village about noon, but alas! nothing comfortable was to be met with. But tho* our palates this day received no gratification, our eyes certainly did, from profpecls the moil romantic and entertaining. We travelled for many miles by the fide of a very beautiful and extenfive Lake, and paffed a moll wonderful and piclurefque catara£l called Elkerby fall. In the evening we arrived at Gefle. Gefle is a Seaport fituated on the Gulf of Bothnia an arm of the Baltic Sea. There appeared more induflry in the cultivation of Land here, than in any part of this country which we had hitherto paffed. Leaving behind us thefe traces of civilized life we entered into woods that did not terminate for many miles. The 5 WED E N. /±fr The next day we continued our Journey, as before, through almoft endlefs woods, and paffed a variety of Lakes, one of which we were obliged to crofs in a Ferry about half a mile over. The Swedifh Watermen, who are neither expeditious nor expert, greatly impeded our Journey. About eleven at night we arrived at a town" called Igfund. We had Letters of recommendation to a Gentleman of that place, by whom we were molt' ^politely received and hofpitably treated. The town of Igfund tho* in itfelf fmall, yet very extenfive Ironworks are carried on here, the property of Merchants in Stockholm,, After breakfafling the next morning with our hofpitable friend and his Lady we left Igfund and travelled through a country fullof rocks and precipices, deep and heavy fands, with little variety. The Woods, as ufual, were very extenfive. Some fmall Villages are fcattered upon the borders of the Lakes which are inhabited by Boors whofe fole fubfiflence depends upon the fifh they can procure from the Lake on which they live. They have very little corn, and in order to increafe the quantity of food they mix it up and grind it with the thin rind or inward bark of the fir-tree; afterwards they form it into thin large cakes. Tho' their diet is very meagre yet they they are a large, bony, athletic people, capable of bearing much fatigue. The Woods here are remarkably extenfive and thick, and are fuppofed to harbour more wild beafts than any other part of Sweden. We were informed of a melancholy inflance of the ferocity of thefe wild animals near a neighbouring Village while we were there. Two unfortunate Girls, attending their herds in the wood, were both devoured by a ravenous fhe-bear and her young, which the day before had been feen prowling for prey. The fame night we reached Sunval a Sea-port town upon the fame Gulf. The trade of this place chiefly conMs in the building of Ships, which is very convenient on account of its near fituation to fuch extenfive and fine fcrefis. It neither imports nor exports any thing, except tar, which they extradl from their firs. On the morning of the 17th. we croffed two ferries and paffed a mofl mountainous country, The hills on every S W E D E N. i every fide were almofl precipices, altogether inacceifible. This day we dined at an infignificant Village where we unexpectedly met with tolerable accommodations. In the afternoon we crofled a Lake, a mile and a half long. The country to Dogftau, where we flept, was almofl a conflant fuccefllon of deep rocks and barren hills, which delayed us much, for which reafon we did not reach that place till two in the morning, where we found accommodations of every kind exceeding bad. Here we delayed not long but left Dogftau very early, and paffed under an exceeding high rock at fome fmall diftance from the town. The fummit of this rock is much reforted to by ftrangers, to fee the Sun at midnight. We dined at a neat Village; the houfe was uncommonly clean, and we were agreeably furprifed with uti-iooked for delicacies, fuch as, a variety of wild fowl, eggs, chaders, Sec. From hence we made a flow progrefs in travelling, as the roads were deep and fandy, and arrived at Lefver the fame night, a town fituated in a wretched country, the Land producing no corn for three years paft. This circumilance threatens them with the dreadful con-iequenccs of a general Famine; a calamity too often experienced in this miferable country. 48 A TOUR THROUGH LETTER XIII. June 19, 3786. HpHIS morning we entered Uma, a beautiful well-built town, fuuated upon a fine River of the fame name, where Ships are built of large burthen. The river runs on the fouth fide of the town and empties itfelf into the Gulf of Bothnia. It gives its name to a part of Swedifh Lapland in which it has its fource, from hence called Uma Lapmark. It is too broad to admit of a bridge which renders the pafTage very incommodious, as the ferries are very bad and ill fupplied. The Governor cf Weft Bothnia refides here, which is about tw© hundred and eighty miles north of Stockholm. The fame night we arrived at Richlea the firft town at which we flept in Lapland, The roads here are like thofe we had left with rocks, woods, and, in the height of Summer, burning fands. The town of Richlea vies with, and indeed far furpaffes, the towns in the Swedifh territories in dirt and poverty. Beds, there were indeed, if L A P L A N D, 49 if fuch they may be called, which we lay upon, and by the alhltance of fatigue contrived to fleep till morning. By day we were bit by the Mufqueto-fly and during the night by infecls of a nature equally difagreeable to our feelings. Our faces, legs, and bodies were fo immode-rately 1 welled as to render us truly pitiable objects. We left that place to free ourfelves from fuch an uncomfortable fituation, as early as poiTible. On the next day we arrived very early at a fmall Village called Gumboda. Ilere *we were entertained with an Encampment of Swedifh Soldiers which made a very indifferent military appearance. From their awje-wardnefs and apparent want of difcipline I took them for fome new raifed Lapland Militia. We flept that night at Sunana, where we found an excellent Inn. Every thing, much to our furprife, was uncommonly clean for that country. The Landlady feemed very defirous to pleafe ; that circumltance could only be gueffed at from her actions, as an entire ignorance of the language of the country rendered any other intcrcourfe inapplicable. H Our p Our Journey the next day was much retarded by the wilful negligence of thofe Boors who are obliged to fupply all Travellers with horfes. A negligence in this refpecl fubjects them either to corporal punifhment or a pecuniary line. On which account, the Traveller figns a book which is kept for this purpofe, and at the fame time particularly notes how long he had been detained by their negletl. This book muff be produced at every quarterly meeting of their Magillrates, who regulate every punifhment according to the defert of the offender. Were it not for the flriclnefs of this regulation no foreigner could commodioufly travel, but muff be fubjeB to the greateft impositions. This country abounds in Lakes and Rivers which, though particularly beautiful and romantic, greatly hindered the progrefs of our Journey, as we were obliged to pafsover many of them. For which reafon we did not arrive at Pithia till five in the afternoon. Here we dined at the Burgo-maffer's houfe, were genteelly received, and fet down to a very flight dinner which we quickly dif-patched. Pithia, like Uma, gives its name to a Province of €>f Swedilh Lapland, is fituated upon a river of the fame name which rifes in the Lapland mountains, and runs into the Gulf of Bothnia. From hence we fet out for Ernaflo, where we arrived the fame night, but finding the beds damp we were obliged to deep in our cloaths. From this circumflance you will not be furprifed that we were very foon ready to purfue our Journey in the morning. The town of Pithia is perhaps one of the largeil and bell built towns in Lapland. It is governed by a Burgo-mafter and twelve Rodmen. This place has more the appearance, than the reality, of trade, though extremely well fituated for that purpofe. It is furrounded by a fine navigable water which communicates with many Lakes and Rivers. The Inhabitants feem to be an inanimate fort of people, neither defirous to pleafe nor giving themfelves much trouble to {hew their difpleafure* A T O U ft THRO U G II LETTER XIV. Tornao, 2\th. June. A FTER leaving Pilhia and palling over a large extent of country, very little of which is good, the greater part, bad, and indiflercnt, a better prof peel prefents itfelf before us. Here Plenty might have been expected from the apparent good quality of the foil if the people were inclined to induflry. But, alas! on account of their indolence, and ignorance in the art of Agriculture, Poverty, fcanty Poverty, continues to opprefs them. After crofling a very indifferent Ferry we arrived at a frnall but neat town called Gambelfladen, where it is recorded, that King Charles XI. of Sweden, on his return from Tornao, humouioufly declared, that he had in his tour met with three very extraordinary circumftances ; the firft was, feeing the Sun at midnight at Tornao; the fecond, that in crofting the Ferry, a .large Salmon leaped into the boat; and laftly, that when he attended divine Service Service at Gambelftaden, the parifh Minifter afcended the roftrum to preach before him, but being overcome by diffidence, and awed by the prefence of Majefly, returned again to his feat without uttering a word. Here we vifited the church, which is a fpacious building fu-perbly ornamented with gaudy grandeur. The fame night we flept at Grot, The Clergyman of the parifh was the Landlord. Not far from this place we obferved two criminals ftretched upon the Wheel for murder. Capital executions are not common in this country, and indeed are but feldom inflicted, except in cafes of murder. On fuch occafions only they have not yet laid afide the ufe of torture, a proof, among others, that the Government of Sweden has not yet attained that degree of refinement which in more fouthern Kingdoms every where prevails. The morning following, after paffing a noble river, we entered Finland. The country here is deep and fandy, and of courfe barren and unfruitful. The Inhabitants are to appearance rough, and their manners uncultivated to a great degree degree ; but though toa ftrangerthey appear ignorant, yet they are fufficiently knowing where their own intereit is concerned. This day we arrived at Tornao, a beautiful well built town furrounded by a river of the fame name, or rather the river here fwells into a fpacious Lake. This water produces a great quantity of Salmon of uncommon weight and fize. This tqwn is the place of refidence of many capital merchants. The principal trade here confifts of tar and furs of all kinds, brought down from the high country by the Laplanders, which they barter for cloth, hardware and other merchandize. At twelve o'clock this night we faw the Sun in full beauty- The Horizon being remarkably clear, gave US a mod delightful view of that, to us, extraordinary fight. Sir H. G. L. has caufed an engraving to be made of this agreeable Scene * The Inhabitants of this climate no doubt reap many advantages from this circumftance during the Summer feafon ; but, alas! a long and dreary Winter reverfes the fcene and involves them in continual darknefs. Yet this is not quite fo difmal as might be imagined. The aurora borealis appears with peculiar fplendor * S«e the frontifpiecc. fplendor in all northern countries and fupplies in fome degree the place of the Sun. The ftars too in their clear frofty nights fhed an agreeable light, and enable them without much impediment to follow many of their ordinary occupations. LETTER XV. Tornao, June 2§th9 AS we had great need of reft, after a Journey of eight hundred miles through a country deftitute of every comfort and convenience of life, it was thought expedient to halt at this place yefterday and to-day. This town is fituated on the confines of Finland. The languages both of the Laplanders and the Finlanders are fpoken here. Our interpreter being well {killed in all the dialects of this country we met with fewer difficulties in the common courfc of things than we had reafon ta expect, This 4$ A TOUR T H ROUG H This day we attended the Church which Hands at feme diftance from the town. It is a fmall but neat building, and the benefice about eighty pounds per annum. Few church preferments in this country arc of greater value. In the afternoon we received an invitation from the Judge's lady to drink coffee, the Judge himfelf then attending the Diet at Stockholm. We accepted the inVita -tlon and were mofl politely received by the lady. Her drefs was very fuperb having a gold chain about her neck, a diamond crofs, ear rings, and a variety of precious flones on every finger. Her veftment was a rich brocade, very fhort, after the country fafhion. In the evening we were introduced to a grand ball, where we were much entertained with their peculiar manner of dancing. Soon after, the Judge's Lady made her appearance ; when fhe entered the room the company all rofe and paid her much refpecl: from this it may be imagined that fhe is confidered as a perfon of no fmall confequence in this place. Though fhe was not now in the meridian of youth and beauty, fne danced minuets, cotillions, and many of their own country dances, with uncommon activity and fpirit. The Inhabitants of this place, though living as it were at a great diftance from polifhed poll (bed Societyi are far from being an unpohfhed Peopled 'i he rtiaitei o the c« re monies pai.i us ib$ uimoit refpeti aa i auention. U.-i g i em/ram ut men caiioiris, we were, accord ng lb the Englitt) Phr.ife, going to take a French leave, hut werje given to underftand thai it would be deemed the higheft difrefpt cl if we did not particularly fa.uie the Jtidge'i Lady and make a general obeifance to the Whole co npiny. With this ceremonv, though by no means pleadnt to us, we were obliged to comply. Tornao is the chief town of Wed. Bothnia, about three hundred and twenty miles north eafl of St ckholm, fituated on a riverof the fame name, which rife; in Lapland, runs fouth eaft, and falls at Tornao into ihe Gulf of Bothnia. They have a tolerable trade here in Furs with the Laplanders, their neighbours, on the weft and north, and the Finlanders who inhabit the eallern fide of the Gulf. I LET LETTER XVI. Tornao, June. TT is our fortune to be at Tornao on MiaTummer day ~ a day always celebrated wnh the greatell Feilivhy in Sweden. I he Boors flock to this place in great n.mibers from the fu;'rounding country and endeavour to amufe themfelves in various ways, Their cu:iofity has been very much excited by oir H. G. LJi Landaw, which they have viewed with much admiration. They are alio as defirouS of feting us as we can poflibly be of obTerving them. For this purpofe, through ignorance or cunofity, I will not call it impertinence, they are continually flaring at us, through the windows of our dining loom. I muff now relate an Adventure, though ofno great importance, yet as it amufed us, I (hall have your pardon for fo doing. In the evening a flout Finlander laid his elbows upon the window, and without much ceremony called called to us frequently for brandy. We nodded to him as we were drinking our wine, while he continued to repeat his former requeil in his own language, Anna ma vino. Hurra Kultana, u Dear Gentlemen, give me brandy." Sir H, with great good nature complied with his requeil, and gave him two or three glaffes which he feemed to enjoy very much, but Hill he called, Hurra Kultana. A few glafles more were given him, which made him drop his elbow from the window, and rather grow fhorter. As his legs would not bear him up, he bent his knees againft the wall, and by the help of his hands he fupported himfelf, by holding fall by the window port ; but Rill he called, Hurra Kultana. Two glaiTcs more were given him, till at length he could fay nothing but Kultana, Kultana, and gradually funk from the window. When his countrymen who were (landing around faw him drop, they took him carefully up and carried him away. Word, however, was foon brought that the man wasfo ill that they expected his throat would foon be on fire, and if he did not recover before the morning, our poll horfes would be flopped and our Journey prevented. 12 Our Our anxiety was removed in an hour or two's time by the man's appearance once more upon the ftage. He came into the yard and began to play feveral anticks, and to Ihew us how the Bear dances in the fields. About eleven o'clock the fame night the much renowned Proleflor Heiands waited on Sir Harry. His countenance and appearance fhewed that he was a true born fon or Lapland. His age about fixty nine. lie fpoke the French language tolerably well, and faid many hand-fome things of the Englifh nation. He informed us how many Englifh Gentlemen had vifited Tornao in his time, and fhewed us Letters he had received from perfons of rank in London. There is one circumflance concerning him I cannot omit mentioning, to (hew the high cllimation in which learning is held and the credulity of the common people, as well as the veneration which is paid in unenlightened nations to men of fuperior knowledge. We were informed, and I believe the circumllance was entirely credited by the perfon who told us, that for his winter amufe- amufement this learned Profeflbr had taught a fwarm of Bees to hunt, and even to kill, mice. It is impofiible to fay how far the minds of the ignorant may be impofed upon. It is not perhaps many centuries ago that this (lory would have found Believers even in England., We walked in the evening to the fide of the river to fee the Finlanders draw their nets at the Salmon Fifhery. They form an Enclofure with Poles driven down in the water, the length of which is three hundred yards, the breadth one hundred, with only one entrance for the Salmon. Every two hours they draw their net and generally catch about forty or fifty Salmon at a time. The inhabitants of this place pickle and fait it in barrels and export it from hence to all parts of Sweden. A large quantity is frnoked and dried, and fold very cheap. Our Landlord the fame evening bought a large Salmon that weighed twenty-one pounds for ninedollarscopper 'about half a crown.) The $>ike is a fifh very abundant at Tornao, andinLapland. Thefe alfo are dried by the natives and fold to the merchants for exportation. But of all the fifh which their water water can fupply, none is to be compared with the Ruda either for goodnefs or for flavour. It refembles the Carp in fhape, and is equally pleafant to the palate. LETTER XVII, Tornao, r ipHE Laplanders in general are below the middle fta-ture, with flat faces, high cheek bones, long black hair, and their complexions of a mahogany hue. Their habitations are dirty to a great degree, but on account of their unfettled life are portable. They leave an aperture at the top which ferves both for window and chimney, and a fmall hole on one fide for an entrance. In ihort their dwellings are not unlike thofe defcribed iq Cook's Voyage of the inhabitants of Kamfchatka. The Laplanders are mufcular and active, though at the fame time, which feems to imply a contradiction, they are naturally idle, but perfectly pacific in their tempers. The Women, likewife are low, with large broad features, but have have fo gentle and complaifant a manner that their behaviour removes a prejudice which their firft appearance do^s not fail to excite. As their manners are gentle fo their characters are chafle. The language of the Laplanders is a harm and unintelligible Jargon derived from their neighbours, the ancient Inhabitants of Finland. Their voices however are muiical and they never require much entreaty to oblige. The few fpecimens which we poflefs of Lapland Poetry, give you a favorable imprelfion of their tqfte, and tafle moil cert.d t\y it is, uncorrupted by foreign Ideas, and entirely the production of nature. In the Spectator you have two elegant Odes tranllated from the language of Lapland (Nos ^65 and 406. ) 1 (hall make no apology for adding a thud. A LAPLAND SONG. 'T^HE Snows are diffolving on Tornac/s rude fide, T* And the Ice of Lulhea flows down the da k tide* Thy dark dream, Oh Lulhea, flows freely away. And the Snow-drop unfolds her pale beautiea to Day. Far Far oft the keen terrors of Winter retire, And the North's dancing Streamers relmquifh their fire The Sun's genial beams I well the bud on the tree, And Luna chaunts forth her wild warblings with glee. The Rein-deer, unharnefsM in freedom fhall play And fairly o'er Odon's ileep precipire dray ; The Wolf to the Forefl's recelles {h.,11 fly And howl to the moon as fhe glides thro' the fky. Then hafle, my fair Lush, Ch ! hafle to the Grove, And pafs the fweet Seafofa in rapture and love ; In Youth let our bofo«ns in Extary glow For the winter of Life ne'er a tranfyort can know. With rf fpecl to religion I'm aflfraid tlie Laplanders have yet much to learn : though like every other quarter of the Globe, Knowledge is making gradual advances even here. The high Laps, as they a*f called, that^s, thofe who inhabit the mountains,have not vet qui c forgot their original Paganifm, notwuhflanding the great pains which the the Swedes have taken to introduce Chridianity amongft them. Many fupcrditious cuftoms (till remain to proclaim the darknefs of their minds. Augury and witchcraft make a part of their belief; they dill whifper to their Rein-deer when they undertake a Journey, and addrefs their ancient Idols for the increafe and fafety of their flocks. You have heard no doubt of their conjuring Drums. I met with one in the pofleflion of a Pried at Uma, who had attended a reformed Pagan in his dying moments. His original opinions he had long fince changed, but retained this piece of ancient fuperflition to delude the ignorant, and fupply his own neccflities. This Indrument is of an oval form, made of the bark of the fir, pine, or birch-tree, one en 1 of which is covered with a fort of parchment dreffed from the Rein-deer (kin. This is loaded with brafs rings an fully fadened to it. The Conjuror then beats it upon his bread with a variety of frantic poflurcs. After this he befmears it with blood, and draws upon it rude figures of various kinds. When he has gone through all his manoeuvres, he informs his credulous audience what they wifh to know, which he fays K was was communicated to him during the paroxifm of his attitudes. Like other Fortune-tellers, his anfwers ate generally of a favorable kind, for which he receives pre-fents of brandy, which adds fuel to his frenzy and renders him mighty wife* LETTER XVIII. Tornao, HT^HE Wealth of the Laplanders confifts chiefly in the Number of Rein-deer. There draw their Sledges in winter, but in fummer thefe animals loofe their vigour and fwiftnefs, and are eafily overcome by heat. I have fecnthem reclining in the wroods, and apparently fo en« feebled, as fcarcely able to get out of your way. When thus oppreffed they make a noife refembling the grunting of an hog. Even then the Laplanders make ufe of them to tranf port their Effects from one flation to another, which they have occafion to do more frequently in fummer L A P L A N D. 67 «ber than in winter, as they are then in queft oF fertile plains for the maintenance of their numerous flocks. The Rein-deer is of the fhape of a Stag, but rather flronger. The hair light, rather inclining to an a(h colour. His horns arcvery long and finely branched. The lower branches, which fall very near the forehead, are faid to be ufed by the animal in breaking the ice, when the waters are frozen over, that he may get drink. His food is fhrubs and plants, or mofs and the bark of trees. His legs are very hairy and his hoofs moveable, for he expands and opens them fri going. He is an extremely fwift, as well as an extremely ftrong, animal. After fpeaking of the rein-deer it is but proper that I fhould mention the Sledge which renders them fo ufeful. The Sledge is formed fomething like a boat. Its bottom is convex, of courfe none but a perfon well practiced in fuch a mode of travelling could preferve himfelf from overfetting every moment. It is fquare behind, but projecting to a point before. The Traveller is tied in this - • K2 Sledge Sledge like a child in a cradle. He manages his carriage, with great dexterity by means of a (tick with a flat end, to remove nones or any obltruQions which he might meet with. In this lunation they travel with great rapidity. The Laplander is very dexterous in making utenfils of wood. He is his own carpenter and boat-builder. I was not a little furprized, in a tent of wandering Laplanders, to find the cheefe which they make of the rein-deer's milk curioufly imprefled with a wooden inflrument fuch as is commonly ufed in .the Englifh Daries. They fallen their boards together, when they make their boats or other moveables, with Twigs or the Nerves of the rein-deer. The women alfo make ufe of the latter as a fubflitute for thread in fewing. The female Laplanders fhew great ingenuity in embroidering their Garments with brafs-wire, tin, or any other gaudy ornament. They take much delight in adorning their heads, neck, and fhoulders with glafs beads, &c. and are very fanciful in their girdles which are embroidered and fringed with large tufts at the two extremes and tied in large knots; this they look upon as the greateft ornament of their drefs. The The Drefs of Lapland Ladies of fuperior rank, fuch as are refident in towns, is equal to their fortunes. This is often very fuperb and coftly, whimfically loaded with ornaments, gold and filver rings, diamonds, and pearls, Sec. I have already mentioned the drefs of the Judge's Lady at this place. The veil of a Lady of Quality is of the richell brocade filk, trimmed with ribbons which float round the neck and wailt; the cap, of blue or white fatin, wrought with embroidery of various colours. The young women wear a gold ring on the middle finger of the right hand : when they marry it is changed to the left. There are but very few doga in Lapland, and thefe of a breed peculiar to the country, fmall fized, with cur tails and pointed ears, not unlike the wolf dog. They are very ufeful to hunters in the woods. They are generally well trained and of wonderful fagacity in finding game, particularly the chader and ora. After the bird is fprung the dog purfues and watches its perch, which commonly is upon a high tree. The bird becomes unaccountably fafcinated by the fteady poflure and barking of the dog, fo that the mailer has no difficulty in difcovering the ObjecT of his purfuit. The 7o A T O U R THROUGH The fifhing Laplanders chufe their habitation upon the fhore of one of their Lakes. They are very dexterous in this art : and no wonder, as on this their whole fubuflence depends. This however can only be a rummer employment. When the lakes are frozen they are obliged to betake themfelves to their forefts, and fubfifl by hunting. The fifh of thefe lakes are moll excellent in quality and flavour, but they know not how to drefs them. The following, are the names by which the variety of them are known. The Gadda Abborre, Mort, Loyan, Gris, Rucla or Caraffir, a fpecies of the carp but much larger; the Stremling, and Negenogon, of the herring kind, but inhabitants of frefh water; the Lax, (or falmon) Skoma-karen, Rudor, Simper and Lake, When the feafon approaches for curing their fifh for their winter provifions, they are obliged to take a long and tedious Journey over deferts and mountains to pro* cure Salt at their Sea-port towns. Thefe Journeys arc generally performed in large parties. LET Hie jK_a! id h bl , Male AiFemwle. LETTER XIX. Tornao, TpROM the wild appearance of this mountainous region, far from population and cultivated life, the fportfman may expecl the higheft gratification. Wild game indeed of various kinds may be found here in great abundance. It cannot be expected in an excurliou of this kind that I fhould give you a complete Natural Hiftory of the countries which I vifit; neither will I pretend to be very accurate even in thofe things which I do defcribe. I can only relate what I beheld, and defcribe as well as the circumftances of our fituation would permit. Amongfl others, the Kader, or Chader, is a remarkably fine bird, as large as a common turkey. The cock is black: the hen of an orange colour, and not quite fo large as the cock. The hen generally lays about eight or ten eggs. One One evening as Sir H. G. L. was out on a mooting party, his clog fprung a Chader; upon walking to the place he found herneft at the foot of a rotten fir-tree with eight eggs in it.— The Ora nearly refembles our black game in England but larger. But the Hierpe is reckoned the fineft game that can be eaten; in fize it is like a young pigeon ; its colour, black, grey and white. (fee the plate) The Snoripa is rather larger; for the firft two years this bird turns white in the winter and grey in the fummer, like the hares in this country. Afterwards it remains always white. This bird makes an extraordinary noife and particularly at nights. It is not to be found any where but in Lapland, or the neighbouring countries. By fome accident a few years ago this bird happened to make its appearance within an hundred miles of Stockholm, which very much alarmed the common people in the neighbourhood where it was found. In fhort, from the particular noife it made at nights a report prevailed amongft -the vulgar that the wood was haunted by a Ghojl, So much were they terrified by this invisible fpirit that nothing could tempt the poft-bovs after it was dark to pafs this dreadful wood. This fpirit, however, was at lafl happily removed by the fagacity of fome gentlemen who fent lent their game keepers by moon-light into the wood, and difcovered the harmlefs Snoripa. The birds I have mentioned are reckoned great rarities at Stockholm, whither they are fent in the winter and fold at very high prices. Befides thefe they have the Moorkulla, Akefhon, Purrhon' Rapphons, Gelenotte, Kneeper, which is a kind of Snipe, and the Yierper. Woodcocks breed both in Lapland and in Sweden as well as other northern countries. After the breeding Seafon, for a certain time, the woods of Lapland and Finland abound with them. Thefe they call in their language the Seafon-bird, but they neither deftroy or eat them, judging them to be unwholefome food, from the circumflance of their having no crops. It has been an obfervation in Eng, land that for feveral years pall Woodcocks have become remarkably fcarce. This may probably be accounted for in the following manner. Sweden like other countries, is making a gradual progrefs in the arts of Luxury, amongfl which the indulgence of the palate takes no undiftinguiih-ed place. Wild fowl eggs have of late become a great l deli. delicacy among the inhabitants of that country who encourage the Boors to find out their nefts. The egg of the Woodcock they are particularly fond of, which is about thefize of that of the Plover, and is exceeding rich in flavour. I have feen the Boors offering large quantities of thefe eggs for fale in the market at Stockholm. From this practice it is not improbable but that the Breed of this bird as well as of the Chader, Ora, Sec. will be greatly diminiihed, if not at laft totally exterpated. Upon enquiry, however, I do not find that any alteration in point of quantity has, as yet, been perceived in Lapland. LET- LETTER XX. Tornao, JpROM the number, fize, and retired fituation of the Lapland Lakes it may be imagined that they abound in a variety of aquatic fowls. This poflibly may be the cafe, but in order to be a judge of this it would he necef-fary to take up our abode in thefe cold regions during t]ie winter months. There are feveral of the Duck fpeeies to be found here; one I was fhewn which had been {hot by a boor refembling the Moor-cock in plumage, and which a perfon not well verfed in Natural Hiftory might have miflaken for one, but the bill and feet proved it to be an inhabitant of the waters. There is a fmall bird fometimes to be met with in this country and in other northern climates. One of this kind was lately taken near Ravenlworth caflle in the L 2 county 76 A T O U R THROUGH county of Durham, and is now in the poITeiTion of Lady Liddell. It is about the fizeof a Thrum. This bird is called the Siebenfchwantz, or Bohemian Chatterer, a fo-litary bird, from whence it is conjectured to have been called the Micro-phcenix. It has a long tail of blue, red and yellow feathers winch give it a very glowing appear ance. On almoft every feather of the wing there is a fmall red bright fpor, like a drop of red fealing wax. This laft has been particularly obferved in a bird of the fame fize, though otherwife lefs gaily feathered, in the Jouthern parts of America. But it feems probable that thefe birds are not of the fame kind, as this has a tuft upon its head which does not anfwer the defcription of the other. It is not, however, furprizing that birds, who are well provided for long journeys, fhould be found in very djftant countries, particularly as it feems within their power to remove from one place to another according to the temperature of different feafons, or for other reafons not fo evident to men who are unable to judge of their Inftincls. From this country a large quantity of J£dder-down is collected L A P L A N D. 77 lecled from a duck of that name, to be found only in the northern climes. The Down, is of fuch value when in its purity, that it is fold for two rix-dollars per pound. It is extremely foft and warm, and fo light and apt to expand that two hand fulls fqueezed together are fufBcient to fill a Down Quilt, which is a covering like a feather bed ufed in thofe cold countries inftead of a common quilt or blanket. I mufl not forget to mention the Jo-Fug], a bird remarkable for robbing other birds of their prey, which he is too lazy to look out for himfelf. If he cannot intimidate them by his cry or appearance, he ftrikes them with his bill fo violently on the back, as to caufe them to drop their excrement which he catches as it fall a. The Alk is a bird of the fize of a fmall goofe: it will dive twenty fathoms deep in purfuit of herrings, and has fometimes been drawn up by a fifh-hook from that depth. The Scarv or Loom is a very fingular aquatic bird, about the 78 AT OUR THROUGH the fize of a Mufcovy duck. The egg after half an hours boiling remains liquid. The boors take thefe birds by lighting a fire under the rock where they build. The fmoke and heat make them giddy, and they drop down in numbers. Many clutters of Swallows in their torpid flate, I was credibly informed, are frequently found by fifhermen among reeds and bufhes in the Lakes both of Norway and Sweden. Tho' this country feems to be fituated under an inclem-nent Sky, yet we muft not fuppofe that Nature has entirely deprived it of the fruits of the Earth. Befides others ■which may be found in cold climates the following are the native fruits of Lapland. The A'kerbar, which grows in flony places, and is reckoned a rarity at the firit Tables in Sweden, it is preferved and ufed as a defert, from which alfo they make a fort of wine : the Hiortron, which grows in fwamps, of the fize of the Rafpberry, is yellow, and very delicious to the palate; and the Lingon, a fruit not unlike unlike a Cranbury, but as large again, which'is preferved and generally ufed in Sweden to roaff. beef. The forefls of Lapland produce, in great perfection the fpruce and filver fir. Another fpecieshas lately been difcovered here called the Mazar-tree; it is a tall, thick and ufeful timber. The Bole when cut in two is beautifully variegated, and hard enough to take an excellent polifh. Tables of great beauty, and other ornamental furniture have been made of this wood, which is pur-chafed for this purpofe by the Swedes and their northern neighbours. Lapland too has its flowers, which during its fhort fummer flourifh in the vallies. This country in general is very mountainous and barren; the filiations on its Lakes, however, and in the interflices of its Hills are pi&urefque and beautiful. But there are extenfive forefls dark and difmal, long and dreary plains, covered with mofs, and fwampy; the profpecl. of which cannot but make make the Inhabitant of mod other countries, truly thank* ful for comforts which the Laplander cannot poffibly enjoy. Yet even the native of Lapland does not want his Enjoyments. '< Nature, a mother kind alike to all, tf Still grants her blifs at Labour's earnefl call ; " With food as well the Peafant is fupplied " On Lapland's Cliff, as Arno's fhelvy fide; " And tho' the rocky ere lied Summits frown, ** Thefe rocks, by cultom, turn to beds of Down." Gold/milk's Traveller. LET- LETTER XXL Tornao, TT has not been my intention, as it certainly was beyond * my ability, to give you a complete Hillory of the prefent ftate of Lapland. To do this a long refidcnce in the country would be required ; it would be neceflary to cxpofe yourfelf to the bitter winter blafts of this inclement region, to climb mountains deemed inacceflible to the feet of man, to live in the dark and dirty Huts of -the native inhabitants, and to feed upon {lender cheefe, or the powdered bark of fome neighbouring tree. Now, you know me too well, to imagine that I would be thus liberal of my labours for the benefit of the world. Fatigue and Hunger are but miferable companions. Yet I will not fay, how far curiofity and the Love of Novelty would carry me, to become better acquainted with this Polar Clime and country. You muff, however, content yourfelf with fuch obfervations as 1 have been able to give you, and that you may not fay I have carried you over fo many Lakes and Mountains, through fo many forefts and plains, without M offering offering one agreeable repair to your mind, I feel myfelf inclined to give you Thompfon's beautiful defcription of the Scenes I have been defcribing. There is another advantage, I intend from this long quotation j and that is, if my reflections do not corroborate the fentiments of the Poet, the Poet will at leali juflify and illuflrate my reflections. After defcribing the " martial hordes", of the north, this Poet of Nature proceeds, «f Not fuch the Sons of Lapland', wifely they ct Defpife th'infenfate barbarous trade of war; «! They afk no more than fimple nature gives, (t They love their mountains, and enjoy their florms. «« No falfe defires, no pride-created wants, " Diflurb the peaceful current of their time ; i* And thro' the refllefs ever tortured maze ¥ Of Pleafure or Ambition, bid it rage. «,! Their Rein-deer form their riches. Thefe their tents « Their robes, their beds, and all their homely wealth Supply, their wholefome fare and chearful cups. « Obfequious at their call, the docile tribe « Yield to the Sled their necks, and whirl them fwift " O'er hill and dale, heap'd into one expanfe "Of ** Of marbled Snow, as far as Eye can fweep %{ With a blue crefi of ice unbounded glaz'd. " By dancing meteors then, that ceafelefs (hake " A waving blaze refracted o'er the heavens, M And vivid moons, and liars that keener play " With doubled Iuftre from the gloify wafte, M Even in the depth of Polar night, they find «« A wond'rous day ; enough to light the chace te Or guide their daring Heps to Finland fairs. « Wifh'd Spring returns; arid from the hazy South, " While dim Aurora (lowly moves before, " The welcome Sun, jufl verging up at firft, " By fmall degrees extends the fwelling curve ! t{ Till feenat lafl for gay rejoicing mouths. V Still round and round, his fpiral courfehe winds, " And as he nearly dips his flaming orb, (t Wheels up again, and re-afcends the Sky. rt In that glad feafon from the Lakes and floods, " Where pure Niemi'sf .fairy mountains rife, M2 « And ■j- M. oe Maupertuif, in his book on ih'fiifurt cf the F.arth, after hiving defcribtd the beautiful Lake and Mountains of Uicmi in Lapland, fays,—-il From this height, we had opportunity feveral times to fee thofe vapours rife from the Lake, which the people of the country call iUUhs} and which they " And fring'dwith rofes Tenglio* rolls his flream, w They draw the copious fry. With thefe, at Eve " They chearful loaded to their tents repair; M Where, all day long in ufeful cares employ'd " Their kind unblemihYd wives the fire prepare. " Thrice happy race! by poverty fecur'd, " From legal plunder and rapacious pow'r : " In whom fell Intereft never yet has fown " The feeds of Vice: whofe fpotlefs fwains ne'er knew ** Injurious deed, nor, blafted by the breath " Of faithlefs love, their blooming daughters woe. Thornf/on's Winter. they deem to be the guardian Spirits of ibe mountains. We Lad been frighted. With Stories of Bears that haunted this place, but law none. It feemed rathe* a place of refort for Fairies and Genii than bears." * The fame Author obferves— a I was furprized to fee upon the banks of .this river (TengHo) rofes of as lively a red as any that are in ©ur Canleni." let- r. 4 LETTER XXII. Torha*> A People that live without exercifing the Arts of Agriculture, even thefimple ones of ploughing, fowing and planting, affords a fingular inflance in the prefent Hiflory of the World. Such a people are the Natives of Lapland. Ignorant of all the improvements of Life, unknowing in the feveral embellimments of fociety, they live, in the interior parts of Lapland, as much as pofhble in a ftate of Nature. Yet Providence, who always finds a fubftitute where full enjoyment is denied, darts a ray of contentment beneath the rafter of the Laplander. Happy would it be for more polifhed fociety, if, in the midftof theirentertainments, they could meet with the fame confolation f If the native of Lapland land poiTeffes not his flocks and his herds, if he fees not a-round him vallies fmiling with corn, nor his rich pallures and fine meadows, of this at leaff he is certain, that he has no occafion for them. His Rein-deer is his All. Of all tame animals this is at once the mofl ferviceabie and provided for with the leaft trouble and inconvenience. I have had occafion to remark that their ufual food is mofs when they are unable to procure grafs upon the Mountains. I have before mentioned both the Rein-deer and the Sledge ; but as I have an opportunity of fending you a drawing of the latter, which has been purchafed by Sir H. G. L. for the purpofe of fending home as a curiofity, I fhal] add a more particular account of it. The Sledge is fhaped like a fmall boat, with a back-board fojr the perfon to lean againft, who fits laced fatt in, and well fecured from the cold. It is peaked before, to which part the leather thong is fixed which yokes the rein-deer to the carri-age. There is a cloth girt around the body of the animal which is fattened on the back. The bit is a piece of fmall leather tacked to the reins of the bridle over the deer's head and neck, and from the bread a leather flrap palling under the belly is faflened to the fore-part of the Sledge which ferves inllead of Shafts. The lapland sledge. a. The leather {trap or trace bv which the ST frige is drawn, b. Pieces of different coloured cloth lormed into arofe. c. The covering of the Sledge made of beautiful fpotted Seal-fkin. d. ABrafs ring and looped piece of cord. e. Green cloth with a red fcalloped border. f. Cloth. g> Yellow cloth. h. A Plate of brafs'round the back-board. i. Cordage. i. A crooked piece of horn, and the ftrap pulled through a loop offeve ral ply of cordage. FINLAND. 87 LETTER XXIIL Tornao, TT may be expe&ed while I am at this place that I fhould fay fomething of the Inhabitants of the neigh-bouring Province of Swedifh Finland. Tornao, as I have informed you, Hands at the very head of the Gulf of Bothnia, the eaftern fhore of which is inhabited by the Finlanders, fubje&s of the King of Sweden. The other divifion of Finland lies further to the eafl and owes allegiance to the Emprefs of Ruflia. The Finlanders which fell under our obfervation at, and near, Tornao, appear to be more uncouth in their figures, lefs civilized in their manners, and lefs intelligible in their language than their neighbours, the natives of Lapland. Like thefe, they are low in flature, but {lout and aclive, and from that temperance infeparable from their fituation, live to very great ages. Their N country SS A TOIJR THROUG H country is of the fame nature with Swedifh Lapland, abounding in mountains, high and rugged, with rich and fertile vales, extenfive and beautiful lakes. Many of thefe Lakes are navigable and might be made Hill more lo at a very trifling expence. They communicate with the Gulf of Finland, and might very eafily be made the feats of a good Trade. Ships are built here of a very large burthen ; and Ship building in this place is a trade, which from the cheapnefs of materials might be very beneficial. Several French Agents during the late war, vifited Tornao to purchafe Tar and other naval (lores. This in all probability would have turned to great advantage, if the fuddennefs of the Peace had not put a flop to their tranfaclions. From this circumftance, I was credibly informed, they loft above a third part of their contract. At Tornao there is a great annual Fair, frequented by the mountain Laplanders and Finlanders. At that feafon they refort thither in great companies, and barter furs and other commodities, the produce of their country, for hardware and other neceflaries. This Fair continues a week, and is conftdered as a fort of Finland Jubilee, When FINLAND. 89 When they depart for their own mountains the arrange* mentof their Deer and loaded Puichas or Sledges makes a very fingular appearance. They do not travel in a mixed multitude and without order, but with much regularity and method. Piecedency is always claimed, and allowed to the Senior. The others follow in rotation, which pre-fents to the Eye a Procefiion oF Deer and Sledges 5 the uncouth figures of men, andutenfils of various kinds and fhapes, extending from feven to eight or nine miles, in length. The Furs, which are purchafed by the merchants of Tornao and the Other Finland Towns, are made into male and female drelies, and lent to Stockholm and other parts of Sweden. I There is no very eficntial di&rcnce between this conn-try and thofe of the neighbouring La: nudes. Their fifh, fowl, and wild animals, are much the fame, though preference has fometimes been given to the Finland Fifh. The Lakes, though of a pacific appearance, and prefenting to the the Eye a tranfparent glafTy furface, are often turbulent and ftormy, fo that many inftances have occurred of Veflels, even of large burthens, being fhip-wrecked. The Religion of the Inhabitants of Finland, like thofe of Lapland, is the Lutheran. But, alas ! much is flill •wanting to make them real Chriltians. It would be a charitable aclion, nay I could go farther and fay, that it is the duty of all the neighbouring Sovereigns to endeavour to inculcate the knowledge of true Chiidianity into this, yet unenlightened, People. They are not feparated by unnavigablc Seas, or inacceflible mountains. Their un-deillandings, though unimproved, are not mean: their tempers, though rough and uncivilized, are yet gentle enough to receive Inftruclion. It would be a glorious aft to undertake to civilize this ferocious people. I would not here be underftood to mean that this is a general defcription of all ranks of men in this diflricl of the Globe. I would confine thefe obfervations to the mountain Inhabitants, for the Inhabitants of their large Towns and other places of trade are not far behind the reft of the world in the arts of Life, or in the cultivation of Religion. let. LETTER XXIV. Pithia, June 27. rJplIE moll nothern point to which our Journey extended was Tornao, from whence I have endeavoured to give you fome account of the Inhabitants of this country. We left that place yeflerday, and though our accommodations were not of the moft agreeable nature, yet they were rendered tolerable by the civility and politenefs with which we were entertained. We had not travelled far, before we were informed, that we might have an opportunity of obferving a Laplander and his family who were feeding their herd of Rein-deer at no great diftance. We got out of the carriage, and walked about the diftance of an Englifh mile through a very thick wood where we found their family in a Tent or Hut. This confided of an old man, his wife, a young man and his wife with a very young child, probably about two months old. The infant was moft curiouily trufled up in a cradle or or machine, almofl refembling a fiddle-cafe, made of the thick bark of a tree, fo formed that it exactly contained the Babe who was fixed in it with a kind of brafs chain, made fo portable and light that the mother might eafily carry it in one hand. This cradle, which is alfo fometimes made of a hollow piece of timber like a fmall boat, the Lapland women when they travel, tie with the child in it, to their back. The child is not covered with bed clothes, but with a foft and fine mofs, over which they lay the tender fkin of a young Rein-deer. When they rock the child they fallen the cradle with a rope to the top of the Hut, and tolling it from one fide to the other, lull the child afleep. This Lapland family invited us to their tent and offered us their common, and only, fare which confifls of deer's milk, and cheefe made of the fame milk: occafionally they cat deer's flefh, buthave no kind of bread. We prefented them in return for their civilities with fume wine which they feemed to relifh very much, but gave us to underfland that Brandy would have been more acceptable. The Laplanders are a flrong featured people, low in ftature Hature, but To conftitutionally hard as to bear the feverity of the moft inclement feafon. Thefe people are generally born in woods, and are frequently upon the fnow, and wanderers from their birth to their life's end. Their Huts are formed of pieces of timber or rafters joined together and covered with turf or the branches or bark of pine trees, fo that architecture here may be faid to appear in its firit rudiments. Sometimes coarfe cloth makes a part of the covering of their tents. In fome places, we were told, that their houfes were built upon the trunks of trees, raifed above the furface of the earth, or upon a (tone foundation, to prevent, in thofe defolate regions, their being overwhelmed in the enormous drifts of fnow, or devoured by wild beafts. In Summer, the Laplanders wearaclofe garment which reaches to the middle of their legs girded clofe about them with a belt. They have no linen, but their clothes are made in general of a coarfe wool without dying ; their fhoes and caps, of the fkin of the Rein-deer with the hair outwards. In winter their clothes are of fkin with the hair 94 A TOUR THROUGH hair inwards. The Women's apparel is not very different from that of the men. It is faid that the natives of Lapland are great cowards, and for that reafon,the Swedes never employ them as Soldiers. How unlike are thefe to the brave Highlanders of Scotland, whofe courage and intrepidity are as immovable as their mountains ! * • Extreme cold has diminiflied the Stature and congealed the faculties of the Laplanders ; and the Arctic tribes, alone among the Sons of men, are ignorant of War, ami unconfcious of human blood : an happy Ignorance, if reafon and Virtue were the Guardians of their Peace I f Gibbon's Hift. vol. 5. page 551, quarto. f Bnffon, Hift. Naturelle, torn. v. p. 6. in iamo. Guflavus Adolphus at-tempted, without fuccefs, to form a Regiment of Laplanders. Grotius fays ofthele Arctic Tribes, Arma arcus et pharetra, fed adverfus feras. (An-nal. 1 iv. p. 336) and attempts after the manner of Tacitus to varnifhwiih Phjlofophy their brutal Ignorance. After After feafling with the Laplanders, we purfued our Journey without intermiflion till we arrived at Vitan. Here, though our accommodations were miferable to a gieat degree, we took a little reft which we were in great ne, d of. This evening we arrived once more at Pithia where we have been moil: hofpitably received by the Burgomafter, whofe politenefs and civility we had before experienced. LETTER XXV. Uma, June 29. Tt J E ordered horfes at four in the morning of the 28th. promifmg ourfelves fome repair upon the road, but no refrefhment of any kind could be obtained till we arrived at Sunnana about four in the afternoon. The Poverty of the country is beyond any thing you can conceive. We flept the fame night at Burea the refidence of dirt and famine, but quitted it as expeditioui'ly as pofible. On Thurfday the 29th. we breakfafled at Gumboda another feat,of mifery and want. Sir H. G. L.'s liberality of three Rix Dollars was here mod humanely applied and gratefully received by a poor indigent Boor, who had reared a family of fcven children with hardly any other fubfiftence than the Bark of the fir-tree. The fight of fuch a fum, and the pofTcfTion of it alfo, almofl overcame the L A P L A N D. 97 the poor man : his meagre, penlive and melancholy vifage foon brightened up and changed to joy and gladnefs. Thoufands of his countrymen are in the fame mifcrable fituation. In the courfe of our Journey this day, after we had paffed Gumboda, we received an invitation to dine with the Dean of Bogde. Our empty Stomachs could by no means refufe fo well timed an invitation. We were received at the door by the Dean and his Lady. The Dean was a portly good looking elderly Gentleman, his Lady young and rather handfome. After fome little formal ceremony we were ufhered into a very handfome apartment and fet down to what we were now quite flrangers to, a good Dinner. The Dean fpeaking neither French nor Englilh, accoltcd us in Latin. Sir Harry, being the befl Linguift, found out two phrafes which were of great ufe to us, bonum vinum and pone circum. Thefe though a little out of the Dean's depth, he foon was made to underlfand, and we profited by his knowledge. O 2 After 98 A T OUR THROUGH After Coffee, and many expreflions of thanks to our bofpitable Dean and his Lady for their unbounded civility, we togk our departure and arrived at Uma this evening. In our way we palled through a fmall but pleafant town called Ojebyn, which was the native place of the celebrated Doftor Solander. His mother, we were informed, is flill living in that place. f LETTER XXVI. Sunval, July 2. TITE left Uma early on the morning of the 301I1. but were detained ^at Dejecnaboda four hours for want of horfes. Having eroded many rivers and met with various impediments we did not arrive at the town of Anlkt till near ten o'clock, where we intended to take a little refrelhment, but were obliged to content purfelves with very Jhort commons. Here, alfo, we propofed deeping ; bnt, alas! the want of beds obliged us to travel foe the reft of the night,. The next day about noon we arrived at Veda with a iirong inclination to dine but were much difappointed; iamine and dirt having got a prior poflcflion cf that place. Our mortification was not a little increafed by being de~ tained with fuch difagreeable companions. We attempted to crofs a very large lake in a fmall boat, but were not able able from the inactivity or inexperience of the watermen who were afraid to take charge of the carriage, the wind blowing rather flrong. Ferry boats of a large burthen not being ufed here, we were obliged to lath two fmall boats together, by which means, though with no fmall difficulty, the carriage got fafe over. But our diftrefles did not ceafe here. Either through the wilful negligence of the boors or indolence of our holt, no horfes could be procured for feven hours • this indeed was a further and unexpected intrufion on the fmall remnant of patience we had left. But time, the furmounter of all difficulties, at length releafed us, and brought us to the town of Hernofand, a beautiful well built Sea-port of much traffic. Here indeed we fared fumtuoufly, which produced (I fear for the firft time) a grateful thankfgiving for what we were going to receive, &c. Great and due commendations I mull: beilow on the Inn and our Hoft in particular ; every thing being neat, clean and good of its kind ; the firft and only compliment I have hitherto had in my power to pay to a Swedilh Publican. After a fhort ftay at Hernofand we purfued our Journey towards towards Sunval where we arrived very late on the 2d. of July. Having fo many rivers to crofs, and to travel over a mountainous country, we found were great impediments to expedition. A very great drought had prevailed for many weeks and we fuffered much inconvenience from the heat, but this evening a fine refrefhing rain feafonably relieved us. While we were fitting at Supper this evening we were agreeably entertained by fome ShepherdefTes who played upon a kind of long trumpet made of the bark of the birch-tree, called in the Swedifh language, Lur. This mufical Inftrument is fometimes four yards in length, has a ftrong and (harp found, and in calm weather can be heard at the diftance of four or five miles. It is generally ufed by the Shepherds in the woods and mountains, and employed by them with much fuccefs in frightening away wild animals. \ 102 A TOUR THROUG II LETTER XXVII. Igfund, 3. July. ^^TE fet out early in the morning from Sunval and arrived the fame evening at Igfund where we had been fo hofpitably entertained on our road to Tornao. The fame Gentleman politely received us again and we flept at his houfe. From the neighbourhood of this place were the two Lapland Girls taken, who are intended by Sir H. G. L. to be fent to England, to fulfil a particular Engagement which he had made. As it is my intention afterwards to write you a fuLl account of thefe females, I fhall pafs over the fubject at prefent. It will then be in my power to inform you, how they performed their Journey and Voyage, how they were received and treated in England, and by what means they returned to their native country. Certain it is, we had no difficulty in perfuading them to undertake * LAP L A N D. 100 o dertake this Enterprise, They immediately accepted our offers and relied with the greatelt confidence on our pro-fefiions. As their minds were entirely uncorrupted by the Influence of foreign Intercourfe, as they had never travelled beyond their native mountains, as their return was at leaft ,uncertain, it is very remarkable that they fhould fo eafily be prevailed upon to leave their friends and connexions, their Huts and their flocks, to undertake a dangerous, or at leaft a tedious, Journey and Voyage, to vint a country of which they were ignorant, and refide among a People whofe manners and cuftoms they could not know. This probably may in fome meafure be accounted-for from the poverty of their own country. Yet ftill we find in the Hiftory of the human race, an Inclination deeply rooted and ftrong, towards our native home. There is fom'ething in the very word Home that fills us with inexpreflible affection. And if, according to the old Englifh Maxim, it be ever fo homely, ftill our wants and our wifhes center there. From thefe thoughts, my friend, you will conclude that my reflections at this moment arc turned upon poor P OLD old England. They are indeed. And while I am viewing thefe Weak mountains and barren heaths, while I turn my Eyes upon a large extent of fandy deferts or im-meafurable woods, I cannot forbear calling one Sigh towards a fnug retreat amidfl. the Cleveland Hills, or the rich plains of the Bifhopric of Durham. Variety, however, renders all Situations agreeable. It will be fome pleafure to me to reflect that I have been in Lapland. Nor can any one defcribe the comfort ariiing from a good dinner and a bottle of honeft Port fo well as he who has been in want of both. Such therefore are the confolationr. that may be drawn from the variety of cir-cumflances with which this world abounds. Such I fup-pofe were the expectations of the Lapland Girls when they agreed to accompany us to England. As our time is not always at our own difpofal, as we are fometimes governed by winds and waves, fometimes by poll-boys and poft-horfes, you muff forgive me if my Letters do not always reach a reafonable length. But believe me, me, whether in England or in Lapland, whether writing on gilt-edged paper, or on a fcrap torn from your own Letters, flill I remain faithfully your's. V LETTER XXVIII. Avefladt, 7, July* npHE Gentleman, whofe politenefs I have before re-marked, and at whole houfe we were fo hofpitably entertained at Igfund, propofed a filhing party on the morning of the fourth, on the Lake which is contiguous to his houfe. His Son was fo obliging as to make one of our company, and do his utmofl endeavours to entertain us. The Scheme, however, though well intended did not anfwer our expectations of pleafure. Our Sport was not good ; and therefore wtc exchanged our Entertainment on the water for a good dinner with our hofpitable hoil. • In the afternoon, with many Expreflions of thanks, we took our leave, and continued our Journey, We did not P 2 halt halt till we came to Gefle, near one hundred miles diflant from Igfund. By difappointments in procuring horfes, and other impediments, we did not arrive there till the next morning at ten o'clock. After fo long and fatiguing a Journey, you may imagine, we were greatly in want of reft. Therefore after taking fome refreshment we retired to bedandflept till four in the afternoon; then dined, and let forwards again a little before one in the morning. We arrived at Faulund, a town in the province of Dalar-na, remarkable for a great copper mine, about nine o'clock at nicdit; after having been confined to our carriage about twenty-eight hours without any fort of Provifion whatever and encountering our ufual difficulties with refpecl: to pofbhorfes. The indolence and unconcern of the inhabitants and people of this place furpafs all conception. After a tedious and tirefome Journey wc naturally hoped and looked for fome refrefhment, efpecially in fo large a town, but our expectations were there defeated by a fuc-ceflion of additional grievances ; fuch as, the want of food, a dirty houfe, a drunken landlord, with many other cir-cumllanccs equally comfortlefs and difagreeablc. The The town of Faulund is a large, and undoubtedly an opulent, town, on account of the circulation of money that mud naturally accrue fiom the carrying on fo immenfe and extenfive a work. Thefe copper works are undoubtedly worth the traveller's infpection. The impofuions we met with in Faulund and the many delays upon the road from the wilful obflinacy and incivility of the people, urged us to the difagreeable necelTUy of making a formal complaint againft them to the Burgo-mafler, as alfo to the Commandant. Sir H. G. L. {hewed a very proper and neceflary fpirit upon this occafion. On the 7th. we arrived at Avefladt where there is a curious copper work, and alio the King's mint for coining copper money. The variety of purifications which that metal undergoes, as well as the various proceffes before it comes to the mint, are well worth obfervation. The Governor of the mint paid us much attention, giving us an invitation to his houfe, and treating us with ftrong beer, a rare and uncommon beverage in that country! At this place we met the Spanifh and Dutch Ambafladors on a tour through that country, with a very inconfiderable retinue, io8 A TOUR THROUG II L E T T E R XXIX. Upfala, July 8. TITE arrived at Sahla between two and three o'clock y V on the morning of the 8th. of July. Near this town there is a confiderable Silver mine. The Ore from which the metal is extracted refembles the lead ore in England. Indeed many of the Englifh lead mines yield a large quantity of Silver. As we are only birds of paf-fage I had no opportunity of examining the manner of working thefe mines, neither can I give you any account of their produce. We were told that the mine we paffed near this place is about two hundred and twenty fix fathoms in depth. In the lafl divifion of our Journey we did' not travel over inhofpitable deferts as before, neither through woods of immeasurable length, but through a fine rich cultivated country. In fhort the whole of the road from Fauland to to Upfala was pleafant and agreeable. The Tillage-ground appeared to be well wrought and clear of weeds, and to my furprize was judicioufly trenched. The grain principally cultivated was Rye with a little Barley and fome Wheat. The province of Agriculture is not altogether intruded to men as in England. Women here bear their part, and handle the plough, which on that account is made very light and fmall. In the afternoon we arrived once more at Upfala and lofl no time in viewing this ancient City and Univerfity. This has been a place of Eminence from the earlier} times of the Swedifh Hiflory. All the Kings of Sweden before the reformation were crowned and buried here, and here Queen Chriflina refigned her Crown in the year 1654. The celebrity of this place indeed in the times of Popery was owing, not fo much, perhaps, to its being the place of the refidence of their Kings as of the Archbifhop : for the Archbifhops of Upfala frequently made a greater figure than the Kings themfelves, and depofed them according to their own power and Interefl, The i io A T O U R T H R () U G H The City of Upfala is fituated upon the banks of the river Sala which falls into the Lake Encopen and is about thirty miles north welt from Stockholm. There is an old Cafllc here built and-fortified after the Gothic manner which Hands high and commands the whole City. In former day?, this fort refs was a place of great importance. There are many excellent paintings, medals and other cunofities in the poffeflion of the Univeifity. Though Upfala has been for many centuries a place of Eminence, yet the Univerfky was not founded till 1476 when Pope Sixtus Ouartus gave it all the privileges of the Univerfity of Bononia. King Guflavus Adolphus was a great Patron of Learning throughout all his Dominions, and amongft others was very liberal to this place. He endowed Pro-fefTorfhips in moft Sciences with tolerable Salaries. Thefe received an Augmentation from the Piety and Munificence of his daughter the celebrated Chriftina, whofe Protection of learned men and Encouragement to every branch of Science is defervedly extolled. This Princefs was the Patronefs of the learned Grotius whom fhe called to Sweden, made him one of her counsellors and fenthim Ambaffador to Lewis xiii. After he had discharged the Duties Duties of his Employment he fet out from France to give ah account of his Embafly to his royal Miftrefs. He met Queen Chriflina at Stockholm, and after he had dif-courfed with her about the affairs he had been entruded with ; he mod humbly begged of her to grant him his difmiflion. This, he had much difficulty to obtain, though this Princefs gave him feveral marks of her great Edeem for him. She invited Cartefius to Sweden, and was never more happy than in the Promotion of Piety and Learning. So long as Upfala is remembered, Linnaeus, whom I have once before mentioned, will not be forgotten. The King himfelf bore teflimony to his merits in a public Speech which he made foon after the Death of that truly celebrated man. I muft not forget to mention the venerable Cathedral at this place, in which lie entombed the ancient Kings of Sweden. This is a very magnificent Structure. In it is an excellent Organ, very beautifully ornamented ; there is alfo a Clock very judly mentioned by all Hidorians of Upfala, as a particular Curiofity. It fhews not only the Q day, day, hour and minute but alfo the remarkable motions of the heavenly bodies; and befides thefe, it tells every tefli-val, whether fixed or moveable, with many other fingu-larly curious operations. Near the Altar the Remains of King Eric fland inclofed in a Silver gilt box, where they have refled quietly and undifturbed upwards of three hundred years. Tradition fays he was flain by the Danes, in a battle, upon a Sunday. The Enemy approached Upfala when the King was at his devotions in the Cathedral. He would not move till the Service was over, when he found the greateft part of the City in the hands of the Enemy. He made an affault, and though he fell, his People were victorious. SWEDEN. n3 LETTER XXX. Stockholm, 10. July. ^trESTERDAY about fix in the morning we re-entered the metropolis of Sweden, not a little rejoiced to find ourfelves once more in a civilized country. Our firft care was to enjoy fome of thofe comforts we had been fo long deprived of. A refreshing fleep, with clean fheets, were charms not to be refilled. You will not therefore be furprized that we indulged moft of that day in bed. In the afternoon, as it was Sunday, we attended divine Service in the King's Chapel, but could not expect much edification from our ignorance of the language. The Preacher feemed very much animated in the delivery of his Sermon which continued almofl an hour. Our continuance at Stockholm lays us under great obligations to Sir Thomas Wroughton, who has given orders to his Secretary to attend us upon feveral Excurfions, particularly to Drottingholm Palace, which is well worth Q 2 the the {hanger's notice. We pafTed the lake Meller in the Admiral's barge, which Sir Thomas had procured us for the occafion. This Palace is a ftately fabric, htuated on the banks of the lake Meller; the Gardens, though extenfive, did not imprefs us with the Idea of Royalty, They arc very much negle£led and laid out in the Dutch lafte, which began to prevail in England in the time of King William. I mull own I was equally difappointed in the Paintings. Though I pretend not to be any great connoifTeur myfelf in this agreeable art, yet Icould difcern that they were more adapted to an attic ftory or lumber garret than to be ufed as the ornamental decorations of a Royal Palace, There is at this place a very curious collection of Antiquities by the late Queen Dowager, particularly from the ruins of Herculaneum, with other Roman curiofities. There is alfo a well collected Library, which does the royal Foundrefs much credit. This Palace is the favorite Summer refidence of his prefent Majefiy ; I was therefore the more aftonifhed to fee fo little attention paid, to render it neat and comfortable, L.E T- LETTER XXXI. Stockholm. ^JpHE City of Stockholm, though atprefent the Metropolis of the Kingdom of Sweden, was, not many centuries ago, a place of no great importance. Indeed we are told, that not much above three hundred years fince, it was only an Illand with two or three cottages for Fifh-ermen : but upon building a Caflle here to watch the motions of their Rufhan neighbours, and afterwards the Court making this a place of refidence, it was railed by degrees to its prefent flate of Profperity. This Caflle was burnt down about a century ago, but has been rebuilt in a more magnificent manner. The City at prefent extends itfelf over fix Iflands, which are connected together by bridges, with very extenfive Suburbs. The rocks, particularly towards the Sea, form a fort of natural fortification. The Harbour 15 is very large and commodious, and will contain one thoufand fail of Ships. But with all its conveniences as a harbour, the utility of its fituation is diminifhed from the difficulty of communication with the Sea. The lake Meller falls from it into the Baltic ; but the paflage having fomany windings, and the circumflance of there being no tides to a {fill the navigation of the Ships, renders it very difficult of accefs, And if to this we add, that for four months at leafl in every year they are frozen up, thefe circumftances will be found great impediments to Commerce. The Population of the capital of Sweden is reckoned at about one hundred thoufand Souls, The Caflle, which is ufed as an arfenal, as well as for the lodgings of the Officers, is a large building, and covered with copper, as feveral buildings are in Stockholm, from the many Copper-mines with which this country abounds. I am unable to inform you of the exa6l produce of the copper and iron mines of Sweden ; doubtlefs it muff, be vcryiaige both to the proprietors and the King who receives about a fourth part. Yet notwithstanding the large Income of the Crown, it is by no means equal to the the annual Expences of the Government.— The Market which is held at Stockholm is a circumftance I mull not omit. The Butcher-meat is fold in fhambies on the Ihore, while Vegetables and other marketable commodities are expofed to fale in boats upon the water. This is at once a fmgular and pleafing fight. The moving Shops and variety of wares that are palling before your eyes, the bufy mixed multitude which croud the furface of the. water, render this a very agreeable Scene. Something of this kind may be feen in the Thames upon the arrival of a large fleet in the Pool. In Stockholm, as in other cold countries, the cuRorn of drinking Spirits prevails rather too muclr. Even Ladies, who by no means deferve an improper Epithet, comply with this pernicious cuftom. It is ufual in this country, previous to dinner, for the company to afiemble 'round the Side-board, and to regale themfelves with bread,'butter, cheefe, or any thing of that nature, which preface is regularly followed in both fexes by a bumper of brandy. This cuftom in the fair fex reminds me of a fet of Rules whichi i x § A T OUR THROUGH which I have Teen for the regulation of a Ruffian Affem-bly. It concludes with this remarkable Injunction— fi N. B. Ladies are not to be drunk before ten o'clock." I had occafion in a former letter to mention the diftil-Icries of this kingdom. I cannot omit, though a circum-fiance I never before heard of, to inform you that Grain is not the only ingredient ufed in Sweden for the diftilling of Spirits. The low priced Brandies are made from Rye and Ants, a fpecies of Infect very plentiful in this country. Upon enquiry I find, that " Ants fupply a Refin, an Oil and an Acid, which have been deemed of confiderable fer-vice in the art of Phyfic." * The Ant ufed upon thefe occasions is a remarkably large black Infect, commonly found in fmall round hills at the bottom of the fit-tree. It is lefs to be wondered that they fhould ufe thefe Infects in their diftilleries than that they fhould eat them and confider them as highly palatable and pleafant* As I was walking with a young Gentleman in a wood near Gottenburg, I obferved him fit down upon one of thefe Jiving hills, which from the nature of its inhabitants I fhould rather have avoided, and begin with fome degree of keen- nefs * See Cyclopedia. Word, Ant. nefs to devour thefe Infects, firft nipping off their heads and wings. The flavour he declared was of the fineft acid., rather refembling that of a Lemon. My young friend in-treated me much to follow his example, but I could not overcome the antipathy which I felt to fuch a kind of food. LETTER XXXIL Stockholm, "\ \ then I left this place a month ago, I promifed, on / return, to lay before you fuch reflections as might happen to occur. I fhall therefore, like a man of Ceed to fulfil that promifeand, as Dogberry fays in the i'lay, " bellow all my tedioufnefs upon you." I have pafTed fo large a tract of country during the laft few weeks that you will naturally expect to hear fome-thing of the Agriculture of Sweden. If the knowledge of Agriculture could be learned, or by any means attained by the Swedifh Peafants; and the large and almofl unlim- r mitea rnited tracts of ground be unincumbered of wood, which I have no doubt might be effected by time and induflry, what a blefled change might be wrought in the face of this country ! The quality of the Soil appears in general no way inferior to ours in England; there is no reafon therefore to fuppofe but that the common method of Englifh hufbandry would equally promote and produce the like vegetation in Sweden, One day when we were at dinner with Sir Thomas Wroughtcn, where agriculture and improvements were the topic of converfation, I could not help regretting that fo very large a tract of improvable ground, as I had lately paffed over, mould be fuffered to continue in fo rude and uncultivated a flate, which by the hand of the induftrious ploughman might become rich and fertile. It is too true replied a Swedifh Gentleman prefent, but indolence and inactivity are the conditutional failings of my countrymen, and may probably be afcribed to the feverity of the climate in which we live. We enjoy no mediocrity of fea-fon ; there is here no Spring or natural progrefhve warmth warmth to introduce Summer, neither any Autumn, or gradual decreafe of heat which might temper the habit againlt fo hidden a tranfuion to an inclement Winter. Each Seafon from its intenfenefs deprives the body of its proper and necefTary exertion. This produces inability and habitual indolence. But though the productions of this country are comparatively fo very infignifi-cant, yet are they more fpeedy in their growth than perhaps any other part of the world. The Sun is eighteen hours and a half above the horizon for fome weeks. This in a great meafure excludes night, and the heat of the Sun multiplies in proportion to its duration*. R2 L E T- LETTER XXXIII. Stockholm. ARCHITECTURE, as well as other arts and fciences, is at this day in Sweden at lead; a century behind England. I muft not, however, omit obferving their method of building bridges over their broadeft and deeped rivers, feveral of which we paffed in our Excurfion to the northern parts of this kingdom. They are undoubtedly tremendous to the flranger, who might imagine with fome kind cf dread that inftead of meafuring the breadth of the waters he is about to crofs, he would firft be obliged to fathom the depth. They have no quay or wall on either fide of the river on which to form a bafis for fuch a building, it is therefore curioufly and well conftrucled in this manner. The thicken, end of a thick piece of timber, the length and fhape of the malt of a large (hip, is fattened to the rock or mountain, the other end extended on the water; water; a fecond timber of the fame length is placed upon it, extending a fathom beyond it, and fo a third, and fourth, to the middle of the dream, where it meets with another feries of timber-mafts from the oppofite fide, and this without any cement, but merely refling upon each Other ; fo that in paffing this, as it were, floating bridge, the claflicity is fometimes fo great that about the middle it appears to fwing and the weight of either horfe or carriage dips it under the futTace of the water ; a circuflancc fo tremendous and apparently dangerous, that a perfon unaccuflomed to fuch bridges may well imagine that it will rife no more. I have frequently feen travellers flop and water their horfes on the middle of the bridge when they already touch the water from the fubfiding of the platform. When freed from the weight of the carriage or paffenger it immediately rifes to its proper height. Were it not for the intenfe cold and drifted fnow, a paffage over the rivers and lakes in winter would be as much more commodious for the traveller, as it is for the bufinefs and intercourfe of the inhabitants, who are fafely conveyed conveyed over the ice in fledges at the rate of fifteen Englijh miles an hour* I have often obferved in this country, though in fo high a northern latitude, efpecially near towns, without even the benefit of manure, a rich natural herbage, from whence it is obvious that grafs and tillage don't delight both in the fame climate, as there is often very little corn and that of a very inferior quality, where grafs is both plentiful and luxuriant. As for the efeulent productions of Gardens, thefe they have neither tafte nor in-dullry for, nor even curiofity to promote; except indeed a kind of turnip, which is ufeful in their foups, tobacco, and flax, which I have obferved in fmall quantities near huts and cottages. This, I think, is the utmoff, extent of their improvements in Agriculture. L E T- LETTER XXXIV. Stockholm* jn the northern parts of Sweden fruit-trees feldom or ever arrive at any degree of perfection, but the inex-hauflible Forefls liberally compenfate that defect. Even the molt barren mountains are fingularly productive of trees, more particularly of the pine tree, which will {hoot from the fmallell fiflures of the rocks and thrive much better than when carefully planted in a good foil. The fir-tree thrives belt in an independent fituation (if I may be allowed the exprefhon) when the feeds are fcattered abroad by the keen northern blaft. This is the eafiefl: method of propagating this tree, and the mofl likely way to make it llourifh. Collect the cones which contain the feed, hang them up till perfectly dry, then commit the feed which is fmall and light, to the fpontancous diftribution of the wind. There is a peculiar mofs adherent to thofe trees which in winter and the deepen, fnowsis a natural provender to the rein-deer: its quality is of the fame nature with that which which grows upon the rocks on the barren fummits of the mountains. For this reafon when the fnow is impenetrably frozen in the fevere winter, the boors are obliged to cut down fome thoufands of thofe mofs-cloathed trees for the fuflenence of their herds. LETTER XXXV. Stockholm,. IN the Citadel we were (hewn a fet of fmall Ordnance which belonged to King Charles XII. confiding of four and twenty brafs cannon mounted on their carriages. Very early in Life, before his Love of Deflruciion had occafioned fo many wild adventures, he ufed to amufe himfelf with firing at objects with this artillery. Probably it would have been happier for him, as well as his country, if he had been always thus innocently employed. General Stenbork was the Prince's Inflructor in this Science. He had difcovered feveral Improvements in the art of Gunnery, and got this fet of brafs cannon caft to illuflrate his principles to his royal Pupil, for whom he intended them as a prefent. There There is an Anecdote related of this Prince which happened at the time of his receiving this prefent. As it in fome meafure had an influence on his future conduct towards the Ladies, 1 will tell it you, without, however, vouching for its authenticity. Very early the next morning after he had n ;■ ived this prefent, before it was light, he waited privately upon the General. After much knocking, the door was opened by 3 Maid Servant and in a few moments the royal vifitor was at the bed-fide■ of the General. After returning thanks for fo acceptable a prefent, and a longdifcourfe on the General's new plan of fending a cannon bali to its greateft diftance, he took his leave, and was lighted down flairs by the fame maidfervant that introduced him.. Though unaccuflomed to acts of Gallantry, and always upon his guard againfl Exceffes of this kind, yet for once Charles was furprized by an amourous Inclination. Ob-ferving the attendant to be a young and handfome Girl he attempted to take fome liberties with her which were not agreeable. Being a native of Dahlarna, and not S knowing, knowing, or pretending not to know the Prince, fhe gave him an hearty box on the Ear. From this time, it is faid, he took a diflike to the Fair-fex : it is certain that he never afterwards fought their fociety. Even the beautiful Lady Koningfmark, who was reckoned the handfomeft woman of that time, could never make any impreflion upon his heart. When this Lady found herfelf flighted by him, fhe left the Kingdom, and became Miflrefs to-the King of Poland. From that time they never met but once; when that was, I think I will inform you, as I am now in the humour for telling a Story. At the time King Charles XII. laid Siege to Warfaw, he, with very few attendants, left the camp and rode privately to the City to fee an Opera which was to be reprefented that evening. The Subject probably had attracted him, and he did not always confi-der the confequences of a rafh action; this was the re-prefentation of a Battle between the Poiifh and Swedifh Armies, the former of which u^on this occafion was cer-tain of fuccefs. At the end of the Mock-fight one of the the Swedifh Officers exclaimed " We are undone now": the King replied, "Let the Poles obtain the Battle on the Stage but the Swedes in the Field." His voice was heard by Lady Koningfmark, who knew him at once, and with great anxiety difpatched a Page to apprize him of his danger. When the King received the Meffage he looked towards ths Lady, who immediately fainted. The King and his attendants took the hint which had been fo kindly given them, and returned to the Camp, before the Poles gained the leafl intelligence that that auguft Perfon had been prefent in the very heart of their City, as an humble Sneciator of the defeat of himfelf and his Army, LETTER XXXVI. Nordkoping. "^^j^'E left Stockholm on the evening of the 17th. and ilept at Soder-telge a fmall town two flages from the metropolis. The next morning our road lay through a very fine fertile country with large luxuriant fields of corn and other tillage. They were making hay in the meadows which feemed to yield very plentiful crops. The roads in general are not unlike thofe of Lapland, paffing through very extenfive forefis, over rocks and fleep hills. We were much delayed by the King's retinue which was then upon the road. All the pofl-horfes, Sec. were engaged for their conveyance which prevented our arrival at Nordkoping till two in the morning. This is one of the largeft and befl built Towns in the Swedifh dominions, pleafantly fituated on the banks of a beautiful lake. Notwithftanding which it could notfo much as a* afford either tolerable provifion or any comfortable accommodation. Happy were we to find beds, though bad ones; to thefe we retired like Philofophers with the old proverb in our mouths, " What cannot be cured" &c. We took our departure fo early the next morning from the famous town of Noidkoping, that I lamented much that we were not able to examine it with more attention, as wfut 1 law in pafling through appeared truly beautiful. It fland* upon a large fpace of ground; a beautiful riv'er runs through the middle of it; though not navigable, yet it has a commercial appearance. Upon enquiry I found it was not remarkable lor trade or any particular manufactory. There are many fhops and neat well built hnufes ; the ftreets are fpacious and regular, but like the red of the Swedifh towns it is ill-paved. The churches are lofty and magnificent. After pafling through the town, which took up fome time, we entered a moft delightful country, and were agreeably agreeably furprized to find Prorpe£ls around us which brought to our remembrance Old England. We were treated with many noble views not inferior to thofe of Richmond or Windfor ; large fields of luxuriant com; hills richly cloathed with lofty trees, efpecially oaks of an uncommon fize. The beautiful and large lake Wetter, along the fide of which we travelled, extends itfelf for feveral miles, with many pleafant villages on its banks. There is in the center of this lake an Jfland fourteen or fifteen miles long, which forms one complete parifh and is a moft delightful place of refidence. This night we fpent at Nordkoping from whence I write. LETTER XXXVII. /\N the 20th. we continued our Journey through a fine country, with delightful views, for near five Swedifh miles ; after which wc entered woods, with a fwampy country on each fide. Our delays have been fo frequent for Want of horfes that we have been obliged to travel incef- fantly night and day, and to com pleat our diflreiTes frequently have not been able to procure any refrefhment. We were not fo provident as other travellers who are acquainted with the miferies of fuch a country as this, and carry their provifion along with them. The next day we paffed through extenfive woods which continued for many miles ; the oaks in particular feemed to be remarkably fine and of much antiquity. It is fomewhat extraordinary that they are not converted to fome ufeful purpofe, as every oak in Sweden is the property of the King whofe poverty frequently demands affiftance from his Subjects. As many travellers were at this time upon the road, the provifions provifions which, at the heft, are but fcanty, were all con-fumed before our arrival at the feveral ftages, fo that from fix on friday morning the 21ft. we travelled till faturday morning without food or deep, except a very fmall por~ tion (accidentally met with) of hard fait Swedifh beef. Delicious morfel! and of great relief after folong a faff. Our additional troubles were, as ufual, want of horfes as well as want of beds. About eleven in the morning of Saturday the 2d. we arrived at Helfingborg a pretty town garrifoned by Swedifh Huzzars and fituated on the fide of the narrow Streight, known by the name of the Sound, on the coafl oppofite Elfmore. There is a fmall fortified Caflle at this place, in which, as I was informed, there is a Dungeon an hundred and fcventy five feet deep. In this difinal prifon many of the Danifh Nobility were confined and numbers of them fullered to perifh during the long and deflruclive Wars between thofe neighbouring Kingdoms. The Governor very politely waited upon us and gave • DENMARK. 135 us an invitation to his houfe, which time would not permit us to accept. After fome fmall refrelhment we embarked for Denmark in a fmall veffel, croffed the Sound and landed at Elfmore, a place of Trade and garrifoned. There was much fuperfluous trouble and parade in examining our palfport as well as baggage. The magnificent Caille of Cronenburg flands alone by the Sea, to guard the paffage. It will excite a figh in the Bread of an Eng-liihman when he views this Caflle, to reflect that here was confined a few years ago the Sifter of his Sovereign, Matilda, the unfortunate Queen of Denmark. It is now inhabited by the Queen Dowager of Denmaik who generally makes it the place of her Summer refidence. The Paffage of the Sound is about three miles in a direct line between the oppofite fhores of Sweden and Denmark. All Veffels that fail up and down the Baltic pay atoll at this place to the King of Denmark, and lower their top-fails as they pafs theCallle of Cronenburg. This tribute is net fo much paid from any fear of the cannon of this fortrefs, as from immemorial cuflom, and the general Law of Nations. X Having; Having fome Letters of recommendation to Mr. Fen-wick the Conful's Brother, we dined with him and immediately after fet out for Copenhagen where we arrived at nine that night. We experienced much inconvenience again anil trouble in entering the town, undergoing a molliiricc fearch by officers both civil and military. L E T T E R XXXVI11. Copenhagen. r|pHE road from Elfinore for near five miles is exceed-irigly lough and ill-made, though the bell materials are to be found within half a mile When you come from the Sea contt, to, what is called, the King's road, it is remarkably broul and well made, but is in great want of that fine gravel which ft amofl excellent covering to the -.weddh roads. Upon your entering the great road, the Eye leldorn or never Wants entertainment till you arrive at Copenhagen. The cliff nt, and nearer views are cq i*lly am ifmz. The country is rich, fenile, and luxuriantly einbelliihed with villages, delightful gardens, tea-drinkmcr plaeei 8cc. Copenhagen is a handfome well b nil t >Wn,and hot\yithilahding its disadvantageous fitua-tion, which isina flu marfhy country^ yet is there a ni venifi;e.nt appearance in molt ol the uruciures. i he King's palace efpectally has a diRinguiming royalty which flrikei tin- iliangei's eye. Tiiclr Churches ar:c neat T2 and and not quite fo gaudily decorated as thofe of the Swedes. The Women arc fair, well made, and not unlike the Englifh. Not far from Copenhagen is an If land called Amak inhabited by a lingular people, originally Dutch, but now living under the Danifh Government, They were placed here by Elizabeth wife of Chriflian II. and filler of the Emperor Charles V. for the purpofe of fupplying her with vegetables and country fare. They wear one uniform of coarfe black cloth. The habits of the women are of the fame colour, with caps of uncommon form and moft cu-rioufly plaited. They pay a tax to the King for that peculiarity of drefs, though it is of their own manufactory. They are a moft laborious, induflrious and ufeful fet of people, indefatigable in the culture of Gardens, on which they principally depend for fupport. They appear, and wifh to be thought, poor, but from their induflry have become an independent people. The manners and cufloms of the Danes differ much from their neighbours, though feparated only by the Sound. Denmark greatly exceeds Sweden inthecultivationof land, their their breed of horfes (which are of the Holftein kind) and in many other advantages which they enjoy. Yet I am told by very good authority (the Conful of Elfinore) that they are obliged to the Swedes for the greatefl part of their Cattle which they privately fmuggle. This is very extra-Ordinary and could hardly be credited from the appearance of each country. Thefe two near neighbours, like other contiguous dates, cordially hate each other. They avoid all kind of intercourfe except when Intereft interferes; thai they pay as much attention to as any Hollander whatever. The Danes in general feem of a phlegmatic conflitution and are very obflinate ; a quality which we fully experienced in our polling through that country. The driver indeed is not fo much to be blamed as he has the fan&ion of the police to travel only at the rate of five miles an hour, but a worfe privilege is that of flopping where and when he pleafes, fo that you are totally at the mercy of an obflinate drone, whom nothing can enliven but the touch of a danifh ducat. The King is now difqualified from holding the reins of Government, that power is for the moll part invefted in the young Prince and Council. The Prince of Denmark is much and defervedly defervcdly refpeQed by his people. He condufts himfclf with great affability and judgement. His chief amufc-ments, and thofe in which he takes great plcafure, are military Maneuvres. Neither is Literature without a fhare in the Attention of this amiable Character. Ko fmall pan of his own private Fortune is declined to the promotion of learning and the Encouragement of learned men. This is a lingular Inttance in the Hiflory of Nations; and there is great reafon to hope that the beautiful appearance of this rifing Sun will be fucceeded by a full blaze of meridian Splendor, The Soldiers in general are well chofen men ; the Officers exceedingly polite and well bred • their uniforms refemble thofe of the Englifh.. which* is alio the cafe in their difeipline. J: E T- LETTER XXXIX. Copenhagen. r £ ^HE King of Denmark has feven different Palaces, but few of them affording a very royal appearance, Copenhagen is generally his place of winter refidence, Fre-derickfburg of his lummer. Since the Prince of Denmark has taken a fhare in the Government of this Kingdom, the Queen Dowager has not been allowed to appear at Court, except upon public days. It is faid that when fhe complained of being obliged to refide in the Caflle of Cronenburg, her Grandfon replied, that there had been a time zvhen Jhe did not think it an improper place of r(faience for his Mother. The City of Copenhagen is interfered by canals, fo that merchandize can be brought to the doors of the ware-houfes. Commerce flourimes here exceedingly, and the Harbour, which is a good one, is generally well filled with Ships. The The reformed religion of Luther is the religion of the State. They are very punctual in the performance of all religious duties, and attend public worfhip with uncommon ftrictnefs and afliduity. The Churches are kept open at particular times, and a Clergyman conflantly in waiting to adminifler the Sacrament to the fick, to give comfort to the afflicted or perform any of the other duties of his function. The Clergy preach extempore and lead very exemplary Lives. Their whole dependence and fupport are in the hands of Government; of courfe they often act with too much Servility and pay too much Submiffion to the court. They are held in high veneration by the common people, over whom they fometimes exercife too great an authority. The Danes are very ftrict in their Police, and act with great Severity againft all thofe who are guilty of fraud* or mifdemeanors. Even the tongue, that unruly member, muft be guarded with great care, for they will not fuffer it to be ufed licentioufly againft the State, or in any political matter. Murder and Manflaughter are punifhed in Denmark Denmark by decapitation. Burglaries and petty thefts are not common ; and you may walk the ftreets at all hours of the night or day, without any moleitation. Agriculture would flourifh better if it were better encouraged. The oppreflion, however, which the farmer meets with from the owner of his lands entirely damps the Spirit of Improvement. They fucceed extremely well in the breed of Horfes, which are a contrail to thofe of Sweden, being from fixteen to feventeen hands high. Literature flourifhes at Copenhagen. There is a very good and well endowed Univerfity, as well as an Academy of Sciences. I mult not omit to mention the Obfervatory or round Tower which was built by the order of Chrif-tian IV. who laid the full flone himfelf in 1637. It was finifhed in 1612 and called Uraniburg, being built inftead of that of the fame name belonging to the celebrated Aftronomer Tycho Brahe in the Hie of Hucn, which was demolifhcd in his reign. The top of this Tower is flat, furrounded with iron rails; the afcent to it is fifteen foot U: 1 , broad, broad, and fo eafy that it is not exaggeration to fay that a coach may go up it. The Danes called it Stellcburg, from the ufe for which it was intended. There is a Mufeum here containing many curiofities both of nature and art. The Government of Denmark is an hereditary Monarchy. Its military Eflablifhment about forty thoufand men. The Laws of this kingdom defcrve the admiration and imitation of all other States. They are contained in one volume of no great bulk, and are eauly underflood by the very meaneilof the People. Juflice here is of a very nummary nature. A man's fortune can neither be diminished nor his heart broken by a tedious Law-fuit. The determination of no fuit, however great its importance, can be protracted beyond one year and a month. For this rea-fonthe number of Lawyers in this country is but fmall. There are three Courts in Denmark : the City or Town court, from whence there lies an appeal to the county, and from that to the high court in Copenhagen where the King is fuppofed to prcfide. There is one circumftance however, attending this frcm which a free People cannot but but revolt, that is, the King, or his councilors, can alter or explain any matter of difpute, according to his, or their, pleafnre. Better therefore is it, to be fubject to all the Prolixity, as well as Perplexity, of Law, than to have our Property and Perfons dependent on the Nod of, perhaps, a capricious Tyrant, or interefted Judges. The Nobility, though they refigned their power to the Crown, ftill exercife great authority over the Peafantry, whom they keep in a (late of vallalage. It were to be wifiled that this fpecies of oppreflion might be entirely exploded in all the kingdoms of the continent as it is in our own. The Cultivators of land would then rife to a proper importance in the Scale ol Subjects. Then would they feel their confequence; Agriculture would be purfued with diligence and their toil would be crowned with fuccefs^. L E T- LETTER XL. A FTER leaving the Danifii territories, which we did on the 28th. we landed at Helfingborg, Being now once more on Swedifh ground and no longer fubje£t to the tedious obflinacy of Danifh pod-boys, we ufed our utmoft exertions to reach Gottenburg, which we accorn-plifhed on Saturday the 29th. which compleated our travels by land, after a Journey of three thoufand feven hundred and eighty four miles, the greater part of which was over a barren unfrequented tra£t of country. No little reafon had we to rejoice and be thankful, confidering the many difficulties we had both experienced andfurmount-ed, when we found ourfelves once more placed in a land of hofpitality and comfort without having had a vilitation of Sicknefs, or any other material caufe of regret. From Saturday the 29th. of July to the 12th. of Auguft we S W E DEN. 14G we were wind bound at Gottenburg, during which time we experienced a repetition of civilities from our moft hofpitable friends there. On the 12th. of Augufl we re-embarked on board the Gottenburg-merchant Caplain Fothergill, weighed anchor at nine in the morning and dropt down the river, but for want of a fair wind we were obliged to anchor above the caflle. The next day the wind coming favorable we got under way, put to Sea with a fine breeze and continued our courfe with a freih gale. The weather being hazy we did not fall in with the Eng-lifh land till Thurfday morning about twelve, when we made Tynmouth caflle and got into Shields about fix ; fet off for Ravenfworth where we arrived at ten that night. Thus, my frrend, I have brought you back to the point from whence we at firfl fet out. I ought here to thank you for the patience with which you have attended to my tedious recital. If I have not added much to the flock of Information, you mufl not be difappointed, as you may remember, I did net. promife a great deal when we fet forward. With refpecl. to myfelf, the Journey has anfweved anfwered all my Expectations. It has opened a new Scene, and given a variety to profpects, which, before, J could enjoy only in Idea. We have beheld human natuie under her rudeft appearances : we have feen her in a State very different from that which appears in cities or at courts, and have been enabled to draw conclufions from the varieties of Life. Pleafure too, has not been wanting in our Excurfion. Profpects plealing and romantic, the roaring cataract and high projecting cliff, the large and beautiful lakes, the mountains flretching to the clouds, and the extenfive forefls, like the Shifting Scenes in a Theatre, appeared in an agreeable Succeffion before our Eyes. And iF we have fometimes encountered dangers, and been deprived of comforts, the Leflbn we have been taught by this Excurfion is, always to be contented with fuch Enjoyments as we actually poffefs. end of the t o u ft* APPENDIX APPENDIX, L E T T E R XLI. £ Made you a promife, that before I concluded my cor-refpondence, I would fend you fome account of the, two female Adventurers that accompanied us from Lapland. It is now my Intention to give you that Intelligence. The motives which induced Sir H. G. L. to bring them fo very far from their native home are futficiently known. His Humanity and particular Attention to them, when in England, his great care that they mould meet with no accident in their return, and the comparative opulence with which he fent them back to their native mountains, do credit to that heart which planned the whole Journey. Many unfair and uncharitable cenfures, I know, have been thrown upon thefe innocent Laplanders. The voice of bufy rumour is not often filent upon fuch fuhjects. An cafy cordlitutional temper, joined to good Health and good Spirits, Spirits, is very apt to be mif-intcrpreted by the morofe and cenfoiious. That this was the only foundation for any reflections upon the Lapland Girls, I dare venture to affirm. It is therefore cruel Malevolence to attempt to depreciate Innocence from mere Sufpicion. We firft met with our two female Travellers at Igfund,, a fmall Town, the Property ofClas Grill, Knight of the order ofVafa, and chief Director of the Swedifh Eaft India Company. Their names are Sigree'and Anea, and they are natives of Jockmo Lapmark. With refpect to their per-fons, they are low in ftature with broad features like the reft of their country-women. We muff not, however, mea-fure the Beauty of a Laplander by the ftandard of other countries. Cuilom, in many refptcts anfwers the purpofe of a more perfect model. And there is no doubt but a Laplander or a Negro would prefer the iubtlantial Beau-tics of the one or the fable charms of the other, to the Alabafler Skin or glowing tints of the molt celebrated Englifh Belle. That you may have fome Idea, however, both of their Likenefs, Drefs and Perfons, a drawing taken m. England will accompany this Letter. Wa We had no great difficulty in perfuading them to take this Journey. They Teemed fo fatisfied that our Intentions were good, and relied fo entirely upon the Promife of Sir H. G. L. that he would Tend them fafely back again to their friends and country, that they made very little oppo-fition to his propofals. In all probability the Poverty of thefe females, joined to an enterprizing Spirit, occafioncd their eafy acquiefcence. They thought that if they returned at all, a circumllance they faw no room to doubt, they , would not return in the fame Hate of Indigence in which . they then were. It is more furprizing that their Parents (hould confent to their undertaking this arduous Journey. They did fo# without any bribe or any other confideration than the faithful promife of our Baronet. They dropt, indeed, fome natural Tears, but -wiped them foon* From Igfund, they accompanied their Children a part of iheir Journey, then took an affectionate leave and returned home. How extraordinary was the confidence of thefe old People ! Nothing but the Idea that their daughters would X return return loaden with opulence, probably could have tempted them to have parted from them. Though even this is not apparent, as they were not fo mercenary as to expect to be bribed into their confent. Will it be allowed me to reafon from hence, that the nearer we approach to a flate of Nature, the lefs the human mind is fubject to Sufpi-cions ? There are Philofophers that would purfue this Idea through all its windings: but as I pretend not to fo exalted a Character, I (hall, after having flarted the Game, fuffer you to purfue it, according to your own pleafure. When our Lapland female friends had determined to undertake the Journey, among other Q.ieflinns, they defired to know whether there were any Churches in England. I know not what Idea they could have form-ed of this country. Probably they imagined that it was fomething like their own, and that the Inhabitants con-filled, partly of Profe(Tors of the reformed Religion, and partly of Pagans, or of thofe who profefs no Religion it all. Plow far fuch an Idea would have been confident with with Truth* I fhall not take upon me to determine. The Lapland Girls, however, were not without their Sentiments of religion. And before they left their own country applied to their Minifter for a certificate of their fidelity to their own Church. The female Laplanders, with three more as companions, walked on foot with the five Rein-deer near fix hundred miles by land before they reached Gottenburg, where we met them, and embarked altogether for England. You will excufe me if I digrefs for one moment on the Subjed of thefe Rein-deer. Thefe Animals fince their arrival in England have bred, and are likely to become very prolific. Monfieur BufTon and other Na-turaliffs have affirmed that they will never 'thrive or breed in any country but Lapland. The Experiment which has been made upon this occafion will effectually confute this Idea. Tew indeed have had the fame ad-; X.2 vantage? Vantages in making it as Sir Henry George Liddell, as few can have that convenience and ground for them to walk on that he has at Eflington-caftle, one of his country-feats, fituated in the northern part of the county of Northumberland. Upon the Eftate there are feveral large Fir Plantations, belides very extenfive Moors abounding in white Mofs, a fort of food they are particularly fond of: notwithdanding, they will eat good Grafs or Fog. From their prefent appearance there feems no doubt but that they will become very numerous, and amply repay Sir H. G. L. for his great Expence in bringing them to England. The female Laplanders were received in this country as great curiofities and vifited by all ranks of People. And probably they were as curious to fee others, as others were to fee them. I have before told you that they were lively and chearful ; I may add alio that they were graceful and unaffeBed. The natural habits and conflitutions of thefe two females were truly amiable: tbeir tempers Heady and unvariable, their happy difpo- fitions fitions pictured in their faces. Befides, they were particularly eafy in their addrefs, efpecially Sigree, fo much fo, that inftead of their Lapland mountains you would have imagined their Education had been in the Drawing room. This obfervation has been frequently made by Lady L. whofe natural Eafe and Politenefs give the greateft weight to her Opinion. It is fome Satisfaction, too, to reflect that during their flay in England they loft none of thofe natural accomplifhments which they brought along with them. Though introduced to People of diflinction they loft none of their Modefly and Humility; though diflant from their native country, and pofhbly uncertain of their return, they loft none of their Livelinefs. The Time came when they were to return ; and the fame friend who brought them into this country was particularly anxious that they fhould meet with no accidents in returning. They re-embarked in the fame Ship that brought them, and we know for certain that they fafely fafely reached their native land after an abfence of feveral months. When our Lapland female Adventurers returned to their native country, we were informed by a correfpondent from Sweden, that their appearance in that Kingdom and in the City of Stockholm, was not lefs attended to as a novelty, than when they firft arrived in England. The Curiofity of the Swedes was great, and their Interogatories many, concerning the reception they met with in England. To all thefe Oueflions they were able to give the moft fatisfaclory anfwers. Their apparel, and their little flock of riches, teflified the manner in which they had been treated : and they themfelves ex-preffed the moft grateful regard to the hofpitality of Ravenfworth-caflle, and the liberal favors they had received from its worthy owners. When the King of Sweden's Brother heard of their arrival at Stockholm, he expreffed a defire to fee them* They were accordingly ufhered into his prefence. The royal Swede was very particular in enquiring into all the circumftances of their Journey, Their replies, all tended to • to the Honor of the Englifh nation, and they did not fcruple to inform him of their reluctance to leave that land of Hofpitality, Though the untutored minds of thefe Girls could never have been taught any of the fublimer Virtues orimpreffed with a proper Senfe of Gratitude, yet from all thefe cir-cumftances it is evident that they poffefTed it in all its piuity. They loft no opportunity in England, or in Sweden, and, I doubt not, afterwards in Lapland, of gratefully acknowledging the favors of their munificent Benefactor. When they returned to their native huts, they found themfelves poffefTed of Wealth, much fupcrior to their neighbours: for opulence entirely depends upon comparifon. They poffefTed in Englifh Coin fifty pounds, which, in the currency of Sweden, is equal to one thoufand two hundred and fifty Dollars, filver mint, or three thoufand feven hundred and fifty, copper mint. Nor was this all their riches ; they had befides, many bountiful Pre-fentsof Trinkets, both valuable and numerous.— It is one part of the ceremony at a Lapland Wedding to adorn the Bride Bride with a crown ornamented with a variety of gaudy trinkets, and on thefe Occafions the moll fplendid baubles are generally borrowed of their more opulent Neighbours. In this kind of Gayety and Splendor, our Travellers excel their whole country; and their Englifh trinkets are obtained at a great price to deck out and ornament their Marriage folemnities. Thus have I given you a general Account of our Travels, and of our Lapland fellow Travellers, You will have much to pardon, and I am afraid not much to commend. To make up for my deficiences upon this occafion, I will conclude the whole with making you this faithful Promife, that the next time I go to Lapland I will endeavour to furnifb you with a better account. FINIS, 6*